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ooh, i race RCs too, hello RC-thread i Race various classes, mostly indoors due to norway being norway. but here is the out door track me and some friends painted up last summer close to my home. bombing my xray t3 around here is therapy  i also built a trail truck that gets way to little runtime these days, but its good fun  said xray with its "show off" body, painted by a friend the wing is a 10$alu POS from rcmart which main contribution is making sparks when i flip, and being bent out of shape 
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Jan 20, 2014 21:08
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HoWSeR posted:old-school? I don't think so but i so would buy one! its an unused lot that we got the owners approval to use while the county/owners decide what it wil be used for, seems to be going towards it being the endstation for the newly built tramservice we have here. its a cool track we built over some days of summer, with painted outlines and infields, concrete curbs and a drivers platform. we have no powersupply tho, so its run what battery you bring. luckily i have only a ten minute walk home 
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Jan 22, 2014 16:24
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Picked up a new kit and its allmost ready for my first in 1:10 4wd buggy for a couple of years,  Loved the build and looks, real impressed with Hpi and hot bodies 
fjelltorsk fucked around with this message at 13:48 on May 16, 2014 |
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May 16, 2014 13:45
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Just a bit of warning/advice for you on the TT01/02 platform -its a old plastic tub chassis with (atleast in stock form) plastic diff gears and some other driveline issues. but for use with a brushed motor its great value. - the 101bk reg does not have lipo cutoff, this means that it will run your lipo battery until it is empty given the chance. this is bad because lipos does not handle being run that far down, they should typically be stopped at about 2.8-3.2v per cell to avoid damage to the battery or fires. -but after upgrading the center shaft and preferably motor mount the car is a great little car. its great value and you get a lot of cool bodies for it. -however, if you after running it for awhile start feeling the itch for expensive or shiny upgrades, cut your losses and get a upgraded platform instead of throwing every funky anodized alu piece in the 3racing/yeah racing inventory on it. I have seen to many guys show up to races with tt01 based monstrosities that they have spent 600 dollars on, and claiming it is just as good as a Xray/kyosho/Associated. results may vary, too say the least TL/DR get a tt01 as a first car, but if you get really into it, swap platforms rather then upgrading the TT01 to something it was never meant to be. In other news, i picked up another sponsorship, not paying to much for electronics goes a long way, especcialy since i lately have been replacing servos every race weekend. My wife also gave me a Xray Xb8 buggy, complete with engine and everything, i have missed racing 1/8 scale Offroad lately. My fleet is starting to get rather diverse. 1/10 Offroad: Schumacher KF Schumacher KR HB D413 1/10 onroad Schumacher Mi5 Evo and Xray T4 ī14 1/12 onroad Xray Xb 12 1/8 scale Xray xb808 (the old girl, converted to e-buggy) Xray Xb8 ī15 and i have RC10 worlds car, an XR10 crawler and some cc01s. I would like to get more into scale offroad, but i have to find time to it.
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Jan 3, 2015 12:50
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KingPave posted:Yeah, I was looking at the same 240Z as you Or you can order a five dollar lipo cutoff/alarm from ebay until you decide what esc you want. no need to go balls deep before you have to. this hobby gets expensive soon enough
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Jan 4, 2015 01:46
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If you know What you are doing you can run lipo without cutoff. Just be vert carefull not to run the battery for too Long.
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Jan 6, 2015 10:22
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krushgroove posted:At the Nurnberg Toy Fair again...there's lots of cheap drones coming out, apparently. Looks like Horizon, AE, Serpent and others have announced their new kits...but HPI have a few cards to show yet Do you have a timeline on the HB 2wd buggy?
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Jan 27, 2015 02:01
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BiohazrD posted:Didn't realize there was an RC car thread, I originally posted this in the RC Air thread in Hobbies just to correct you, you have the terms mixed up. the "S" in the number of cells (a 2 cell battery is labeled 2S or maybe even 2S1P and a three cell is 3S) the infamous "C" rating is as you mention the discharge rating, higher is better but manufacturers are known to pad this number. anything above 20C is plenty for anything but racing. You can mount your batteries wherever you like and bridge them to run then in parallel. for 2S batteries you even get "saddle packs" where you run two 1S packs matched and in series. this is done to split the pack for packaging reasons in smaller racing cars and trucks. If you are designing the truck from the ground up i bet you will find that running a 2S stickpack longitudenal in the center often is the easiest. atleast thats how i allways end up when i draw crazy things in solidworks. On my quad motored stadium truck i tried all sorts of layouts, but ended up with one center battery. was fun untill it burned down
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Jul 3, 2015 01:49
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BiohazrD posted:I was actually looking at two 5000mAh 4s 25C packs and two 19.5T 2300kv (roughly, don't remember exact motor sizes) Wow, that some serious power. i run a 1950 kv motor and a 4s 60-130C pack in my 1:8 scale buggy and that poo poo flies. post video when you are ready to flip the switch
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Jul 3, 2015 11:23
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Holy poo poo, i participated in the norwegian 1/8 E buggy nationals today, with my 9 year old converted xray 808e becuase they where local. E-buggy is still a very small class in norway, so it was a very short event with a field of 42 racers. I had so much fun racing real buggies with no nitro faff to be bothered with. Somehow i actually won and became national champion. Since i got sick with cancer i have been just racing on the club level and only 1:10. I started talking to a buddy about how i should convert my xray xb8 to e and have some fun.... He asked me what i felt about Mugen Seiki, i said... nice cars good quality and he walked off. to return with a funny swede who is the team manager for Mugen in europe. who offered me a full ride with sponsorships from AKA, Mugen and he would try to get tekin to renew my contract. They offered me to test drive a buggy, but considering my buggy had three wheel drive and two bent shocks during the last two finals i just agreed. I have some time off later this week so then its time to build my new race rigs. My goal is to participate in the E-buggy euros within two years. maybe even the worlds. going to be weird racing 1/8 scale without them saying "xray" for the first time...
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Aug 30, 2015 14:40
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Siochain posted:Its been a good week for fjelltorsk! That's awesome man. Huge congrats. Any fun pictures? :P Not from the race, i will see if i cant grab some from facebook i they trickle up. if you guys feel like it i can try to take some pics when building the mugens, i am really curious about them. i get them tuesday, and i have wednesday and thursday off.  here are the broken parts i took of my 808 after the finals tho.. and bonus pic of my Mission 5 
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Aug 30, 2015 15:32
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slidebite posted:I've been running some relatively cheapo Bias brand from Amazon without an issue. most computer chargers have a "storage charge" option, that either charges or discharges your cells to about 80%. if you have this option its good practice to use it. my batteries are storage charged when storaged (duh) and then i charge them up when they will see use the next day. when i return from the track i storage them again and pack them away in lipo bags. anyhow. i promised you build pics and a report of the Mugen. i failed on the pictures of the build. my phone is at the menders and my camera was to much effort. I did however take some pics after i tested it some at the local astro track.  first off. the build: The build was very sweet. fit and finish on the parts are second to none. a really properly designed e-buggy. The manual could have been better, Xray holds the gold standard on manuals, but the mugen manual was okai. not Kyosho-poo poo but not fantastic either. Everything was packaged smartly in bags corresponding with the build step. I like the Mugen version off pillowball suspension better then xrays effort. My only issue during the build was that the countersunk M4 screws holding the front and rear to the chassis where very tight in the hexes, one of my hexdrivers did not fit properly.  The finished product: I really like the look and feel of this buggy. The electronics layout is sensible. (bonus point for having clips for routing cables underneath the battery tray) and all the tuning adjustments are easily accesible. the pillowballs makes front camber dead easy to get right, you just shim them out. Since i am trying to do this on a budget and tekin is abit slow to ship out the good stuff after renewing my contract, i am racing last gen electronics but it works like a champ. i am running an RX8 esc, 1900kv T8 motor. I normally swear by Savox servos, but i had this Orion Vortex lying about. I 2x2s lipos, currently using a mix of old hobbyking packs and two sets of Orion 100C carbon pros. The orions are good. but are they wort 4x the price of the turnigys? maybe in mod touring cars, not in 4s configs   The first run: I took it out to the track on thursday, it an all astro turf track and the grip was insane due to the sunshine and decent temps. I had to cut rows of studs of my minispike (these are the tires if you want to run on astro turf people, yellow compound in the dry, silver in the wet, if its really wet use spirals) the first pack was sort of a shakedown of the car. i found two screws needing some more lock tite and i had to swap the stock 14 tooth pionion for a 16. The car has massive off power turn in and a predictable on power understeer. it lands well and soak up the bumbs very good. I have never had a race rig that performed this well out of the box. at the moment i drive the car bone stock. no upgrades at all and it just works. i do have two options i want to put on it, and they are probably going on this week. These are more geared towards durability and preparing for wear than performance. The car handled the high grip well, but most buggies does. it was not before the sun went down and the grip got less intense i got a real grin on my face. The car is just so easy to handle and it is insanely responsive to steering and throttle inputs. I have a ways to go with setup, but i shaved of ,8 of a second on my fastest lap with the old 808.  The plan: I have a very boing approach to setups and tuning of race rigs. If there is nothing horribly wrong i spend the first 2-3 hours of operation on forming an opinion and then i only change one thing at the time. this takes time to get to peak setup performance but it also makes it very easy to revert if you are going in a wrong direction. I need to take the 3 hour drive to the closest dirt track to start working on a dirt setup, but not until i am confident in knowing what i want out of the car on astro. Being a sponsored driver sort of helps since this makes it possible to have the two e-buggies i feel i need to have to make a low effort racing program more doable as someone who dosent have to much time to do this. i will have one practice buggy and one race buggy, more realisticly i will probably have one astro buggy for local races and practice and one dirt buggy for national and international races.   I have a proper bodyshell being painted. i am terrible at paiting, so i just gave it a white rattlecan job. the orange nosecone is due to picking up the wrong can when i remembered to paint it
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Sep 7, 2015 13:15
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So, for reason i donīt quite understand the hobbystore people who sponsor me want me to run some TLR gear awell as the mugens, and since i allways like trying things i agreed. They sent me an Eight 3.0 to build, and so i got started. i decided to try an do abit better at taking build pictures then earlier, so here is a wall of pics.. first of, the Engine i will be running will be an fairly old, but nib Orion alpha.I will be running spektrum servos and sanwa radio as normal.   I actually never built an eight, so i was looking forward to the build. i am not feeling great at the moment, so progress is slow.  the machined chassis looks sweet. i did the steering and mounted the tank. in retrospect i think i could have added the tank on a later stage to have more room, but whatever.  My normal workflow would be to do all three diffs and shocks, but i decided to follow the manual, so i built the front diff when it was called for   diff felt smooth and free, i filled it with 7k fluid as per manual The hub and spindle went together with the axles with abit of force  assembled the arms and shock towers, i hate doing turnbuckles, but these actually went pretty well together.. i dont really measure the links before i slap them on, i just dial it in when i have a complete roller to get proper toe and angle..  and, with the front clip mounted to the chassis, i call it a night..  so far i am liking the build, i hate the fact that is uses emperial fasteners, but i can deal with it. no idea if this is interesting to anyone, but if it is, i can try to do the complete build write up
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Sep 30, 2015 00:46
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krushgroove posted:It's awesome you get to try different stuff but seriously? Imperial screws and measurements and everything? Still? It's 2015. I feel you man, especially since all the TLR 1/10 scale is now metric, and assosciated is even worse, where the 1:10 scale 2wd is metric and the 4wd is sae. i hate these fractional moon units, and i dont care if the orignial eight was in sae, fix this poo poo losi
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Sep 30, 2015 17:58
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so, how far had we gotten... we had done the front end, so next would have to be... the center diff assembly:  i liked the lightned spurgear. looks cool.  ittybitty spidergears, filled it with oil, closed it up and built the brakes and linkages. btw. i hate doing linkages.  looks good when its together tho it got mounted to the chassis and the splashguard was mounted  i had to repeat this process because i forgot the front centershaft. i did the rear clip and suspension, i forgot to take pictures, but its mostly the same as the front  I built the shocks, they seem very nice and smooth. ditched the kit shock oil, and replaced it with some TLR oil as per my setup sheet i got from a local dude. Kit oil can be a mixed bag, they often just put som random quality oil there, so i use proper shock oil for consistancy.  radio tray time  installed the spektrum servos and reciever pack....  and mounted it on the chassis with the rest of the stuff  i then hamfisted the clutch together, and mounted the pipe and filter on the engine.   i mounted the engine in the chassi, the engine mount was a pain, but that is sorta the name of the game  added a wing, body and tires and we are done  cant wait to get some paint on the shell and some fuel in the engine. i am somewhat bored with breaking in nitro engines tho, but ill do my best
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Oct 2, 2015 23:57
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so, i guess you all have been waiting for a fjelltorsk megathread, No? i dont care, youre getting one anyway.. The outdoor and with that the 1:8 scale season is over for this year, id say it ended on a high note even though our season finale and club championship race was ran in so rainy conditions it should have been cancelled, i mangaged to claw out a 3.rd in nitro due to my car being the one that lasted the 3.rd longest. Seriously, we had 20cm of standing water on the end of the home back straight.  after the race both the servos and rx was soaking wet, clutch bearings was shot and my piston shattered  this meant i had to dry out and pray and the servos and for engine.... i did this  Wintertime means onroad and 1:10 buggies, i formerly raced a 4wd hotbodies, but could never get to grips with it, the car was just to aggresive and twitchy for my driving style, so i had more or less given it up, i sold it as a roller to a club buddy and had decided to chill out with regards to 1:10 4wd. since im a man of principle that lasted about a week before i picked up a used schumacher K1 Aero from a buddy, he races for schumacher and the car came with a huge parts lot and was cheap due to the relase of the latest gen schumacher 4wd. i donīt care about having the most updated car, so i ran with it. mostly because it shares alot of part with my 2wd buggy from the same brand.  as you can tell, they share the same rear parts, and most of the front.  i serviced and dusted of my KF 2wd  Installed some shiny option parts on the new (old) hotness  stole the servo mounts out of my touring car.  shimmed like a madman to get the steering link as straight as possible, came pretty close  there she sits, all pretty and poo poo, i still need to paint the body (one is sent off to a more pro painter than me) and route wires and stuff, but our new indoor track does not open until january so i have loads of time..
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Dec 6, 2015 17:45
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Harik posted:
I use MIP speedtips on my rcs, last a long time and they grip the screws great. they also make hex drivers that i adore. tower/amain should have them
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Jan 26, 2016 14:25
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nummy posted:Picked up and built a TLR 22 3.0 this week. Holy crap. This thing is awesome! Tons of fun on the track! The 22 3.0 looks killer, a few are popping up at my track these days and they looked to have improved some key features over the 2.0 (which i adored for 2 years driving it) but me doing all my 1:10 stuff on high grip carpet and astro, im going to stick with my old schumachers. they work like killers, but eats tires like there is a price for it. Im currently in a bit of a conundrum when it comes to racing. i had a great deal with Mugen, and love the cars to bits. but the distribution of Mugen in scandinavia just changed hands to a dude who cant stand me, after we had a race incident at the natinonals a few years ago. and when he sent me an invoice or the stuff i had a written contract stating that it was covered 100% by sponsorship, i just returned the lot. So here i am, having signed up for Neo 16, just lost my chassis sponsor and the TLR shop that i drive for is struggeling, so i dont have the balls too ask for more poo poo. so i bought up their remaining stockpile of 8ight 3.0s (two nitro and one E-buggy) and is hoping to be able to build them before going to Neo. I tested the 4.0 buggy, and its a fantastic piece of kit. its just not worth it for me to spend double the money to get the newest for one race. as Neo is the last international race im racing before moving to the states for a few years. Not that it bothers me, the 8ight 3.0 is a kick rear end rig, and im so rusty its not going to be the deciding factor that im racing the previous buggy. wow. i went on a tangent. sorry. Enjoy your new buggy. what kind of track are you running on, and show off some pics of your sweet ride
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Feb 27, 2016 11:59
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krushgroove posted:Does anyone watch or do 1/8th buggy racing? I was at the European Championships last weekend, doing the main camera work for RC Racing TV (we livestream all the major European Championships) and the main final was absolutely amazing. The real drama picks up about 10 minutes from the end (35 minutes into the video) as the defending champion was beaten at every pit stop. If you have time to watch check it out here I wonder how many of the big dogs that went with Highest servos that are not seriously nervous ahead of the worlds, apparently both guys overheated their throttle servos and thw worlds in las vegas likely is going to be even hotter. Im racing the national series in 1:8 scale buggy, and thats probably most the racing i will do this year, im back on the chemotrain again, so most large plans have been postponed
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Jul 17, 2016 17:55
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His Divine Shadow posted:I kinda need these by next weekend though and I am not myself in the US. Holding on those for the moment but I need to make a choice soon, or just buy some toy grade crap last minute. I can just second the notion to make sure the kit you pick up has parts support, amain hobbies/tower hobbies is two large online retailers for this kind of stuff, so check if the RC you are considering has parts listed with them, if they are not, just avoid that model. Buying RCs with flakey part support is a surefire way to have a 200$ piece of fun sitting on the shelf because you are unable to get a 3$ piece of plastic. I raced ofna 1:8 scale buggies many moons ago, and the last season was hopeless because parts dried up. a traxxas, HPI or AE product is probably the safest bet.
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Sep 15, 2017 14:38
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