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tehlump posted:Thanks for the info... If I was going to have to charge multiple types of battery, I think the Checkpoint 1030 is a good charger to have. I just did a bunch of research myself. Most AC/DC chargers don't seem to be worth it, as output amperage is generally low, and it's stupid simple to build your own decent DC power supply out of a computer ATX power supply. That said I got an FME Extrema, because I'll only be charging LiPos. Anyway, I'm getting back into RC after a long layoff, too. I ran offroad 2WD in the late 80s/early 90s. I got a wild hair up my rear end last year and decided to get into 1/10 Touring Car, mainly because there is no organized offroad racing here and the local onroad club is strong. Then I was away all last summer, so my car sat collecting dust, and has still never turned a wheel, but I'm determined to run this year. So, I've got orders into four different mail order places, to the tune of about $500, to get it up. Getting initially set up to run touring car (at a potentially competitive level) is awfully pricey. I guess it doesn't help that I've bought everything new, but whatever. That 5 bills doesn't include the car, radio, tools and spares that I already have.  Click here for the full 1292x850 image. I got a Losi JRXS-R, mainly because I liked the component layout, with the motor and battery on the centerline. Unfortunately, it is set up for carpet out of the box so I had to get some extra parts, like a front spool, sway bars, and much softer springs. The car is also very limited for battery space, so finding a high mAh, high-C LiPo that would fit without much hassle was troublesome. The Reedy 5000mAh 35C pack might fit with a little grinding of the motor supports, but I've got some Elite packs of the same spec on the way, which are substantially smaller and will (should) drop right in. Any pack more than 25mm thick ain't gonna fit - the Elites are 24mm.  Click here for the full 1314x845 image. Excuse the big glob of solder - getting three fat wires on that tiny motor tab was a hassle (Novak GTB brush/brushless, biased to brushless). I was going to run 19-turn last year so there's a Checkpoint Money in the car, but the club only runs Stock this year. So, I'm switching to brushless, with a Speed Passion 17.5 turn in the mail. That introduces it's own problems, which is to say the gearing is way, way off. Rollout for a brushed stock motor is like 28mm, while the brushless has to be 50+mm. Losi uses a proprietary spur gear mounting system, so I had to order an adapter to mount normal spurs. I need a much smaller spur so I can use a reasonably sized pinion. All the crap on order should be here this week, so I can start setting the car up.
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May 18, 2009 17:20
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krushgroove posted:I've always liked the JRX-S layout, I was curious how they'd get around the problems the Pro 3 had and Gil Jr. always had an eye for funky new stuff Mine's the Type-R, which replaced the JRXS and has very little in common - it was released in spring '07 I think. It still seems to be competitive from what I can tell, and there doesn't seem to be much homebrew stuff to be done. The spur adapter is about the only necessary pure aftermarket. I wish Losi had included the spool and swaybars in the basic kit, not that they're expensive but it's an added hassle. Some guys replace the "JR Link" upper a-arm with a regular ball stud and turnbuckle, but just as many don't. That's about all... Sloppy posted:I live vicariously through posts like these Battery charger (200), batteries (200 incl shipping for two packs), new motor (75), tires (60 for two sets, mounted). And I don't have any setup tools yet, though I'm going to hold off to make sure I enjoy myself first. compressioncut fucked around with this message at 21:11 on May 18, 2009 |
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May 18, 2009 21:06
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There's a guy on RCTech.com that posted about his many experiments with the JRX-S - a bit too much armchair engineering for some but a lot of people liked his threads.
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The motors are still offset to the side in conventional layout cars (Corally, X-Ray), and haven't got any lighter, so have to be balanced with lead or steel in the battery slots, way off centerline. Some guys in the RCTech forums thread figure the -R is the best LiPo car available right now - biased opinion, but believable. I'll get mine on some scales at some point, but I also believe you can get to the ROAR 1500g minimum with very little added weight, and you can put the weight pretty much anywhere you want. Losi also makes a steel LiPo tray that is basically impossible to find, as it sells out as soon as it is in stock wherever it appears. I don't know why companies like Corally and X-Ray continue to cut battery slots in their top end cars. In fact the only high end RC race car I've seen that comes set up to run LiPo out of the box is the Schumacher Cat 4WD buggy.
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May 19, 2009 00:25
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The cells may be tucked in a bit more but it looks like the standard touring car layout - cells right, motor/steering left.
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May 19, 2009 04:50
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Exactly - the most popular cars locally are XRay and Corally, so lots of spares are available at the hobby shop.
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May 19, 2009 14:15
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Idiot race posted:I finally managed to build most of my TA05-IFS, but now I need some electronics. I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to this as the last time I built one of these things I was about 10. I don't really know poo poo from poo poo as I haven't driven an RC car in 15+ years, but have been doing a lot of research. For a speedo you should probably look at a Castle Sidewinder, which is reasonably priced ($75USD). You should also almost certainly use a brushless motor, 13.5 turn to start probably? That's a fairly fast motor though. The Castle speedo can do brushed motors too, so if you want to use the stocker, no problem.
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May 21, 2009 03:37
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You Am I posted:Nice Sand Scorcher there dalabast. Jealous of the Hilux model, those things are awesome, but expensive as all heck on eBay. Wouldn't be surprised if Tamiya reissued the Hilux, like they are the Rough Rider. I remember smoking a buddy's Rough Rider in 7th grade, with my modified Grasshopper. The RR/Sand Scorcher are pretty neat combinations of scale models and RC models, but I remember his RR was slow as poo poo, but the Hopper had a Tamiya RX-540VZ Technigold motor in it and was about half the weight so I'm being unfair... Man, a lot of memories http://www.rcgrabbag.com/archives/category/videos/ Vintage RC is a pretty big subculture, who knew. And speaking of "scale" RC, I just ordered an Associated SC10 truck, before I even get my touring car running. I figured I needed something fun to screw around with, as the TC is a race car after all, and with 4mm of ground clearance wouldn't even be OK on my street. And the short course truck thing is getting pretty big in the organized racing scene too, if and when we get organized offroad racing around here. But there's still a huge bashing scene. Ordered a 5200mAh LiPo pack to go with it; I'll use a Castle Sidewinder speedo with the Checkpoint Money 19T brushed motor I have lying around, till it wears out. At least I spent less than $300.
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May 24, 2009 21:22
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You Am I posted:They are re-releasing the RR? I might be able to get spare parts at a cheap price for my SS then... http://tamiyablog.com/2009/05/tamiya-rough-rider-re-release-tamiya.html
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May 25, 2009 00:41
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krushgroove posted:compressioncut - I would have suggested the Traxxas Slayer/Slash SC truck (I've heard they're way better or wait for someone else to release one) but you should have plenty of fun with the SC10, IMO these types of trucks are what have been missing from RC for years - something 'scale' looking but with off- and on-road capability, basically like the rally cars of some years ago. Nah, the SC10 is basically stretched T4 stadium truck, which is also basically the same as the B4 buggy - world champion vehicles. That's OK for me. The Slash is, well, a Traxxas and that doesn't appeal to me so much. It's not bad and there's huge aftermarket for them but the SC10 seems to be a little better out of the box, if only for its lower centre of gravity. And I expect the market to catch up rapidly, it was just released after all. Objectively speaking, they're really a wash performance wise. The Slayer is a nitro truck, something I have no desire to get into. I certainly agree with you otherwise. The CORR trucks are exploding, and really appeal to me. I was toying with the idea of an HPI Cup Racer or similar, but the off road truck is a bigger change from the touring car.
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May 26, 2009 02:00
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Well, my JRXS-R is haunted or some poo poo, as it's turning in to a slow motion disaster. I didn't figure the gearing correctly, or rather, didn't think that I couldn't move the motor forward enough to get the new (huge) pinion to mesh with the new (tiny) spur. My LHS has any number of spurs but the only 64 pitch stuff is Calandra for 1/12 pan cars - the mounting bolt pattern is different. They have a 56 tooth(!!) pinion that would mesh, but that final drive ratio is way, way too high for the 17.5t brushless. I might be able to go to 48 pitch, but I ordered some bigger spurs online which I'll try first. Argh. I still don't have any batteries so whatever... I also replaced the right front lower a-arm, from which I had broken a sway bar mount. I put the setscrew for adjusting droop in, went to tighten it and the goddamn screw cracked in half, leaving most of it in the a-arm! I gave some thought to drilling it out but just drilled & tapped a new hole beside it instead. Looks bad, but works I guess. The aftermarket spur adapter I got also didn't fit very well, requiring a fair amount of Dremel work. The Speed Passion BL motor's sensor harness is something like 2.5" long, while the speedo is a good 10" away. I think that's it. Definitely won't be racing this weekend, though. The good news is that UPS says the SC10 truck is just across the strait (I live on an island) and will be here tomorrow, just in time for weekend bashing. Enough whining.
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May 28, 2009 02:59
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Went out bashing with my SC10 today, at a BMX track. It was a friggin blast. I'm running a Checkpoint 19T brushed motor and it's exactly as fast as it needs to be - real entertaining but not overpowered by any stretch. Got some pretty sick air and lots and lots of bad crashes but the truck is in perfect shape, minus a lot of scratches. One of the other guys out was taking video so with any luck I'll have something later. LiPo batteries are god's own miracle too, as I was screwing around for the better part of 90 minutes, and used two packs - they were only down a few tenths of a volt apiece. I only swapped the first out because I was driving for so long I thought my speedo's low voltage cutoff was set wrong. About 45 seconds of charging and I'm ready to go again. The only problem is that the body catches a lot of air under the nose once it gets up to a certain angle in the air - you have to keep it pretty much perfectly flat or the nose goes straight up. I'm going to fab up some sort of shield to try to block the airflow - wheelwell liners, essentially. RC cars are a blast.
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Jun 1, 2009 02:10
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theparag0n posted:I have a HPI savage SS (nitro star 25) that i hadnt used in 3+ years, so i decided i should get it back in running shape! That seems like a pretty tight budget, moreover I'm not sure what you'd need for a motor. Certainly look at the 1/8 brushless conversions and start from there, however, to save a bunch of money on a speed control look at Hobbywing eZRun speedos. They're the no-name version of Speed Passion electronics, and as such a fraction of the cost. They have a couple of 1/8 conversion speedos, and the listing for the following shows a converted e-Revo so I'd suspect it's suitiable for you http://www.hobbywing.com/english/ArticleShow.asp?ArticleID=429 I'm not sure if they sell direct but Hobbyking in Hong Kong distributes them - they're priced at about 1/3 to 1/4 of the Speed Passion branded version. They also have full conversion combos in your ballpark pricerange but I haven't heard great things about the motors, at least consistently. Anyway, I haven't posted pics of my new SC10. It's pretty scratched up from it's first time out - the body parachute effect took its toll, so I cut a couple of holes in the fenders. I think I'll also cut out the side windows. The only complaint I have is about the crappy/tempermental/ancient Associated shock design. I plan to replace them ASAP with either Losi or Kyosho units. I also think the Proline Epic beadlocks are super cool.  Click here for the full 1024x683 image.  Click here for the full 1024x683 image.  Click here for the full 1024x683 image. The 19T brushed is PLENTY fast enough, so I'll use it till it burns out. In fact I went up two teeth on the pinion and it's nearly undriveable now.
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Jun 7, 2009 02:42
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Astrolite posted:Does the number of turns translate directly to kv? I've never seen a brushless motor listed by number of turns, but that may be because I don't look at the race-oriented stuff.. Not really, although most manufacturers provide a turn to kv equivalent chart, which vary between them. Novak has one on their site. A motor listed by turns will almost always be sensored, by kv, sensorless.
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Jun 8, 2009 14:20
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I did it - I got Pro-Line Epic beadlocks on all four corners of an SC10, with complete success. Kinda cool as they haven't been released for this truck yet. There are Epics for two kinds of truck - the Traxxas Slayer and Slash. The Slash version are different offsets front and rear, the fonts creating far too wide a track on the SC10. It would be doable to get rears on all four corners, but the wheels are 2.2" inner and outer, whereas the SC10 uses 3.0 inner/2.2 outer to clear the suspension components - you can get them on the front of the SC10 but you then can't do any steering. Oh, and you have to use Slash steering knuckles too, because the Associated/Traxxas wheel mounting systems are completely different. The Slayer wheels are 3.0/2.2, and exactly the same offset as the SC10 wheels. But they use a 14mm drive hex, and all 14mm hexes I could see in the shop had axle openings quite a bit too large. Here's what I did: first, I installed the Slash steering knuckles, which are basically a drop fit for the stock pieces. I only had to ream out the hinge pin holes a little, so the Associated pins would fit. I also had to Dremel a little off the stock caster block to sufficiently clear the Traxxas bearing carrier - it looks like the Traxxas caster block would also work, but would alter the upper camber link geometry so I didn't bother. I used Slayer wheels on the front. I used .040" (1mm) thick strip plastic to shim the hexes in the wheels down to 12mm, then mixed up some JB Weld to reinforce them. The fronts don't take a lot of torque, but I thought better safe than sorry. The Slayer Epics were then a straightforward bolt-up. Exact track width as stock. The rears were completely straightforward, as the Associated system is a crosspin drive, too, just integral to the wheel, not a removable hex. I think I would be fine with the shimmed Slayer wheels too, but it might be a little fragile with the combination of plastic and JB Weld. The only downside is that the track width is about 1/8" wider per side with the Slash wheels, which will cause a little. I can solve that with thinner hexes. I took it for a burn in my building's parking garage, and where the stock tires were undrivable, the Epics with Switch tires worked really well. Yeah they're heavier than stock wheels but they are pretty drat cool in my opinion.
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Jun 14, 2009 05:39
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krushgroove posted:WOW, and only 40 bux, not a bad price. It's a dated design but anyone familiar with that should look at the Cup Racer and instantly see the similarities I really like the look of that, and the all-metal gearbox is cool, as are the tires. Plastic shock bodies are a minus, though. I think I'm going to pick up a Losi Strike when they're released, so I can have a high-rider chassis to go with my SC10 low rider. But, the Slash is appealing too because there's a ton of cool after market stuff, but the Losi is basically mid motor vehicle which seems neat. I like the Bind 'n Drive option, too, so I'm not saddled with a crappy transmitter. Speaking of the SC10, I've beaten the living poo poo out of it since I've owned it but not broken a thing - I'm talking multiple lawn-dart incidents on a BMX track, which means really, really big air. The only wear issue has been the rear hub bearings, due to the dogbones. The slop/vibration inherent in the dogbone setup has worn the bearings out. I've got some MIP C-CVDs and ST Racing aluminum hub carriers on the way to solve the problem (if someone would make a spline-drive CVD like MIP does for the Revo, that would be sweet as hell and eliminate all slop in the drivetrain). The stock body shell has also been beaten to hell, so I picked up a JConcepts Truth (for the Slash, but fit pretty well perfectly) to be the shelf queen body. Still a bit of a work in progress, as I have to tint the windows and stuff.
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Jul 24, 2009 23:58
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Laserface posted:So whats considered to be the best short course truck on the market at the moment? I guess I'd need RTR since I sold all my gear not long ago, but will definitely be swapping all the parts out so Im really after a good platform that has out of the box advantages, but plenty of room to upgrade into a racer/all out brushless monster. There are only two on the market now, the Slash and SC10. The Losi Strike will be available in August (17th at the dealer I use). The HPI truck will be available in the fall. The SC10 and Slash are quite different chassis-wise. The Slash has a much higher center of gravity - which you think would be bad, but the trucks run relatively skinny, "scale tread" tires, so the handling is pretty similar. The Slash is based on the Traxxas Stampede, whereas the SC10 is a stretched T4, which in turn is basically the same as the B4 buggy - a very successful race car. Lots of hop up parts are available, but they're pretty generic (suspension arms, hubs, etc). But, the Slash has tons of crap available, too - billet aluminum beadlocks, scale rollcages, lots of cool stuff. Lots of local tracks are running Slash-only classes. Your local hobbyshop probably has a wall of spare parts. I think they're similar enough in performance out of the box that you can choose based on superficial qualities - I, for instance, think the Slash is ugly as hell, so I got an SC10. You can, however, make the SC10 into a serious high performance machine quite easily, taking advantage of its lower center of gravity and overall race-bred design. The SC10 has a shortcoming, though, and it's the rear axles. They're a pure dogbone design and plain do not last long. Mine bent and chewed up the rear hub bearings ASAP. If you get one order MIP CVDs along with it (about $20) to nip the problem in the bud.
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Jul 27, 2009 05:59
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A Main has the Blitz for preorder, $195. Expected Oct 22.
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Jul 29, 2009 03:23
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James Woods posted:I assume you ordered the ones for the B4? No, T4. B4 axles will be too short. Then you can remove the limiters in the shocks to get more droop without worrying about dogbones dropping out. That said, the box-stock setup is just fine. I'd also recommend getting some B44 rear hubs and bearings if you're going to be putting much power to it. I got the STRC 1* aluminum hubs, which are sweet and add a little rear toe, but they still use the stock (small) bearings. To get it to jump better, hack (or carefully cut, whatever) out the triangle of lexan in the body between the roll cage bars behind the cab to vent the air. If you use LiPos, clearance the battery hold down to get the battery right up against the rear bulkhead, then use 3 ounces of stick-on weights up front (1.5 on the servo, 1.5 on the skidplate). Mine jumps beautifully, with no parachuting, with that setup. Somewhat Heroic posted:QUESTION FOR THE RC GOONS - WHICH HOBBY STORES DO YOU PATRONIZE? Online, I've used mostly A Main, and they've been fine. I just used Stormer Hobbies for the first time and can say they were very good, and have a really god selection of stuff. As I'm in Canada, I've also used Great Hobbies and they are pretty decent but don't really have a wide selection of stuff and their webstore is kind of archaic. My LHS is BC Shaver and Hobby in Victoria BC. They have a pretty good selection and are extremely helpful/friendly, although prices can be hit or miss. For instance, they had a Slash for $329 Canadian, but an SC10 kit for $250, which is slightly less than I paid to my door (exchange, shipping, duty) from A Main. For other Canadians who want an SCT, Hobby Alley in Edmonton is having a "Slashfest," selling SLashes for $219CDN. compressioncut fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Jul 30, 2009 |
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Jul 30, 2009 02:53
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James Woods posted:
At A Main - MIP CVDs. quote:
I'd get the Racers Edge pieces instead, if only because they use a bigger outer bearing. They're very expensive, however. I use Pro Line Epic beadlocks all around, but it was a bit of a project getting them to fit. I made a post about it a page or two back. They (Pro Line) now have Split Six beadlocks designed for the SC10, much easier. Apparently the locking system has been improved too, but there's nothing preventing you from gluing the tire on anyway. I just run a 19 turn brushed motor so have no issues. quote:I'm definitely trying this on Monday when I go back to the park. Do you have a setup sheet I could see? It sounds like I'm talking to the right guy. Keep in mind I don't race, just bash around on a BMX track, so there isn't a lot of science in my setup: 35wt oil rear, 45wt front, blue springs out back with two big spacers, silver front with a thin spacer. 1 degree camber all around, 1 degree toe out up front. Pro Line Switch tires, and the aforementioned battery and weight placement. The stock setup is preferred by a lot of guys, although heavier shock oil is better for bashing. pic of my SC10 with JConcepts body and beadlocks Post about installing beadlocks
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Jul 30, 2009 14:33
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Speaking of touring cars, I was trying to sell mine after a couple of speed control disasters, but no one wants to buy a Losi touring car around here so I sucked it up and ordered a Hong Kong special speed control. It's actually a Hobbywing 120A sensored job, the same (Hobbywing manufactures them) as this but about $80 less. I've also sent my Novak GTB in for service, as I discovered only recently that they have a good non-warranty exchange program - about $90 shipping included, pretty reasonable for an idiot tax. Who knows how long turnaround would take, so I ordered the new one, too. The Protoform Mazdaspeed6 body I've had on the chassis for a long time now was decidedly trashy looking, with off-center body post holes, not to mention it was ugly as hell by design with a very blunt, high front end. I really liked the look of the Protoform R9 body, and luckily enough my LHS had one, so I bought one and painted it up. The design is really sharp, with the nose much lower. The body is also very GBS (Global Body Spec).  This shows how much lower the nose is - I trimmed those posts for the Speed6 body, with one pin hole above the body clip. There are now five holes above the clip.  Top of the wing needs a little straightening out...  The speedo hasn't arrived yet so I won't be able to race this weekend, but I wired it up with the speedo from my SC10 and a mild brushed mod motor (13T) I had laying around to fart around with it for the first time. It was fast as hell, and obviously really controllable, even though the concrete in my parking garage is very slick. compressioncut fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Aug 14, 2009 |
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Aug 14, 2009 22:52
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Asocb4 posted:Man I didn't realize how many Goons have R/C Cars. I have an old FT TC4 that I still race with. Race at Hobby Town in Las Vegas. But I have been looking into the new TC5. Whats the pros and cons about it? There are not all that many real reasons to choose one touring car over another - the vast majority are more or less identical, so it's down to: 1. Spare parts availability 2. Price 3. Brand loyalty The Losi JRXS-R is the only one with a radically different layout, but it has packaging concerns, especially with the battery (very tight - I have one). I honestly have absolutely no idea what I'd get for a touring car if I was to get another, but it probably wouldn't be a TC5. The Robitronic car looks really, really nice, and I also like the Schumacher MI4. Concern #1 would be acute with either of those though. I also have a mental problem where I have to be different no matter how much a pain in the rear end it may turn out to be for me.
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Aug 18, 2009 05:47
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Asocb4 posted:Well I was also thinking of getting a Tamiya TRF 415. I'm not too worried about parts availability, being you can get most stuff of the web. Just the huge change from shaft to belt. Been racing shaft since the TC3. Like I said, I think you really just can get any car that appeals to you. The high end Tamiya stuff looks nice. I also like the Kyosho Stallion. And there's a brand new one from TOP, too, the Photon.
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Aug 18, 2009 23:52
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Anyone know what might cause of a Hall sensor failure in a brushless motor? Basically I'm trying to find out whether it's the motor or speed control that's messed up. With the sensor cable plugged in, the thing cogs horribly and gives a throttle input error on the ESC. It'll run if I spin the drivetrain by hand for a bit, but not consistently. With no sensor cable, it runs fine with virtually no cogging and the ESC gives no error. It's a Hobbywing Xerun 120A speedo (aka Speed Passion GT 2.0), which is a hybrid sensor/sensorless speedo, with a Speed Passion 17.5R. I haven't really found anyone else with the specific problem, nor have I been able to find any description of how or why a Hall sensor would fail, so I don't know if I should lean to a motor or speedo problem. I'm about to pull the trigger on another motor for troubleshooting purposes. I'm pretty intrigued by the Novak Ballistics, but am also interested in the Trinity Duo-based motors from Scooter's Motorworks. Is the architecture pretty different between the two? edit - or choice 3, a Tekin Redline. Pretty popular locally and seem to be well regarded. Plus I have never had a problem with a Tekin anything. So I ordered it... compressioncut fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Aug 24, 2009 |
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Aug 24, 2009 03:05
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Somewhat Heroic posted:We have not had anyone out here run the SpeedPassion stuff. It has stayed mostly close to the west coast, a little sparse around the South, and a little back East. I have not had any of my sensor wires have an issue since I am paranoid about them failing so I take extra caution unplugging and plugging them in, wire routing, etc. Thanks for the thoughts. I'm just running Stock, and will probably only get a race or two in before the end of the season anyhow. I got the Tekin mostly because anything they make has been idiot- and bulletproof for me. I swear this car is cursed, though. It should have a red Plymouth Fury shell.
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Aug 27, 2009 01:24
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compressioncut posted:Anyone know what might cause of a Hall sensor failure in a brushless motor? Basically I'm trying to find out whether it's the motor or speed control that's messed up. Well, I had a close look at the sensor harness (Novak, brand new) and one of the wires had been put in to the wrong position on the plug on one end! As in, it's supposed to be something like (I don't have it here so don't use this as instruction) white-blue-green-red-orange-black, and say the blue-green was reversed on one end. I changed it to the correct position, and while it is much improved, it still cogs a bit and has a bit of a delay for full throttle, and the speedo still shows a throttle input error. As such, I wonder if something in either the speedo or sensor was damaged due to the manufacturing error. Maybe a sensor harness wire is damaged - I'll see if I can try another. Thankfully Novak color codes the wires on the harness, otherwise I really probably wouldn't have been able to tell. Most other manufacturers don't.
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Sep 2, 2009 00:07
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Is the JRX-S Type R curse broken? The Tekin Redline runs 100% perfectly, using the same speedo and sensor harness as I was trying with the Speed Passion, so obviously that motor got messed up somehow. No idea. Hopefully there's a touring car race or two left this year. Anybody here run pan cars? The 1/12th scale indoor season starts ASAP, and I've been considering it. The issue is I need virtually completely new electronics to go with the car (batteries for sure, and I should get a 1S LiPo speedo too). They're talking about running Pro 10 occasionally, too, which would be good as I could run the same speedo and batteries I have and run all summer next year too.
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Sep 9, 2009 05:32
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Somewhat Heroic posted:THIS THREAD HAS BEEN DYING! I should have been a little better at keeping up with it and telling you cool new stuff. The HPI Blitz is due the first week of October. It will take a lot of willpower to not have one follow me home. My speedo does have advanced timing, but I don't think it's as sophisticated as the Tekin unit - it just seems to be fixed at 28.5* advanced. Everyone raves about that thing, but frankly I've spent enough on speedos this year (3 of them, only 1 works) so I think I'll be fine. SMC has a 50C 1S lipo pack, which I'm about to order a couple of. My LHS has a CRC 3.1 Carpet Knife, barely used with a bunch of spares, which I'm probably going to pick up. Yeah it's old but considering I've never driven one I think it'll be OK. I can always get a new chassis later on in the year if I enjoy it. Of course I'm considering oddball exotic stuff for my new one, like the BMI DB12R, or Darkside Mx2. At least they're relatively inexpensive.
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Sep 23, 2009 04:21
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Well I bought the Carpet Knife from my LHS. Turns out it's a 3.2R, the last model before the GenX. Still old, but this one is essentially unused. It had the ugliest paint job on the body it came with I can imagine, sort of a metallic lemon yellow with metallic hot pink flames, which is probably why it hadn't sold yet. It's that bad. I bought a Speed 12 body, which will be black. It came with a couple sets of tires, a front suspension brace, a nice Airtronics servo and an ancient Novak speedo I threw in the trash - the PO had used hot glue to attach it to the deck, so it took some work to get off. That tipped me off that it may not have been set up too well to begin with. The 7mm ride height (twice as high as I would like it according to the setup sheet I'm using) was also suspicious. So I took it apart and rebuilt it. There still seems to be something wrong with the front suspension, as it doesn't settle at all, so there's no droop, and it seems rock hard? I haven't been able to find out how to set preload on it. It's got the old school large diameter tires on it, I haven't decided whether to go to new style ones or run through the ones I have.
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Sep 26, 2009 05:49
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And just for the sake of discussion, I present to you The Ugliest RC Car Painjob Ever. *I did not perpetrate this crime* lovely camera does not do it justice, it's really hideous.
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Sep 26, 2009 18:41
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Well, did my first ever touring car race today. It was a hell of a lot of fun. Not too many entries as it was the last outdoor race of the year, about 18 in touring stock, so A, B and C mains. Also nitro touring and Pro-10 pan cars, only one heat of each. I qualified in the slow heats. A good idea, but there were truly some bad drivers who made things hard. In my third heat one of them took me out at the end of the long straight and broke an a-arm - fortunately I had a spare. Due to not finishing that race, I qualified for the C-main. I was running really strong, a close second and looking at a bump to the B-main. Then the Loctite gods frowned on me and let a rear camber link fall off. Argh. I should really get nylocks on there for next season. The Losi car worked really well overall. It was by a long shot, the fastest in a straight line compared to the C- or B-main cars, and maybe even the A-cars. Hit a sweet spot with the gearing I guess. Not that I know any different, but I didn't find the Protoform R9 body especially twitchy. Lots of experienced drivers commented on how well it seemed to be driving. The local club ( https://www.irocc.ca ) uses a temporary track. I could not believe how much work it was to set it up and tear it down. It probably took a good 90 minutes to set up, an hour to tear down, with heavy sand-filled fire hoses, boards to bolt together, huge ropes and so on. I really can't see how I would want to participate every weekend through the summer. Maaaaybe every two weeks, but seriously, it was my entire Sunday from 8:30am to 5:30pm. I can see why there would be such a low turnout at the end of the season. That said Pro-10 cars are super cool and I want to run it next year in addition to touring. Pan cars, 10.5 brushless, super fast. Thankfully the 1/12 pan cars for the winter will be far less extra work, and the facility is two blocks from my house.
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Sep 28, 2009 03:12
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krushgroove posted:Built the Axial scaler a couple of weeks ago, and now I'm trying to fit electronics in it, I can't find the right servo mounts. Or a radio crystal. argh. Oh I know, it was just interesting that the car, never raced before, was amongst the fastest all out. The track layout really benefited a fast car, as the main straight was very long followed by a sweeper that allowed you keep the throttle pinned all the way through. I was out-muscling other cars about 40% of the way down the straight, with plenty of grunt in the slow sections. Handling was quite good using a setup I got from the net. I had the lock range dialed down due to a steering linkage setup issue, so I had a minor problem with the chicane/hairpin complex - I had to be very precise but that was beyond my skill. I needed more lock to regain the line, but didn't have it, so that's where I lost all my time. Driving a season of 1/12 pan car should help me with driving a good line. The fastest guy all day was an A-main driver using a Tekin RS. He had the boost figured out and the thing was a rocketship. I believe it was a Corally car with a duo-based motor, probably a Fantom. Trying to track down a west coast mail order place with good 3.7v lipo packs in stock. Surprise surprise, with 12th scale season starting everyone seems to be sold out.
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Sep 30, 2009 00:58
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kuffs posted:I think you might be mixing your models? The DX3.0S comes with two receivers and 10 model memory whereas the DX3.0 has one receiver and 4 model memory. My 3.0 came with two receivers and two (crappy) servos.
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Sep 30, 2009 23:58
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Pan car season nears - 24 Oct is the first club race. My 1S lipos came yesterday. They are tiny, probably 3/8 the size of my 2S packs. Thunder Power 5000mAh 40C. I'm trying to get the wiring sorted out, and it's very tight. I thought I was finished but I forgot the voltage regulator I need so that the servo & receiver get the correct voltage. It's stuck in customs or something (I ordered the batteries from a Canadian mail order place on Monday, and they arrived yesterday, whereas the stuff from the US is two weeks out). I'm going to replace the 12g wire with 16g. That should help, as I won't need the big loop to maintain flexibility.   That spur is going to get a lot smaller, too. Down to like a 75 tooth - 1S, 17.5T gearing is ridiculous.
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Oct 9, 2009 04:08
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Yeah. The little single Li-Po's are going to dominate the race scene on the 1/12 stuff. the 16 gauge wire will do you good. The car looks super clean otherwise! Let us know how you do in the races! I stay away from pan cars. They are the devil. Which CAN place do you mail order from? One of my dealers is "western" Canada, based in Edmonton. You have probably heard of them, The Hobby Room. They are pretty cool cats. I have a buddy who gets Traxxas stuff from The Hobby Room, and swears by them. I used Great Hobbies, coincidentally also in Edmonton. They have a decent selection, good prices and I've always had fast shipping through them. Their webstore is kind of archaic though, basically the same as Stormer's.
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Oct 10, 2009 14:30
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The club here races Pro10 - that is, 1/10 "unlimited" pan cars. I think that's my next purchase. I was having a hell of a time deciding on a car, as there are a lot of choices, but then I stumbled across the Stranahan suspension conversions for the CRC Gen-X 10. They make a 3-link rear and parallel A-arm, damped front end (pan cars are traditionally just tiny springs with friction damping up front). The best part is that you can piece it together at the LHS except for a couple of custom machined bits. Plus, the CRC car seems to be the only reasonably priced option that is easy to make 235mm track width.   The front end looks a little bodged together, but I'm pretty excited about the three-link rear. It works like a full-size setup, as in a Trans Am car. Normally that stuff would be way overkill, but the Pro10 cars are very fast (nitro speeds) running on relatively rough surfaces. Super cool. And I can take advantage of the high Canadian dollar right now too - I almost feel obligated to buy this stuff 
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Oct 15, 2009 02:53
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I haven't raced long enough to have anything weird happen to me. Why is your track closing? I've got my 12th scale car ready to go for next week (more or less). And I bought a new car! A CRC Gen-X 10, to convert to the Stranahan 3-link. I got it used from another club member, pretty good deal. I talked to John Stranahan last week, who seems like a good guy and very knowledgable, and ordered the rearend kit. The hub extensions on it now were machined by the PO, and he says they work well. I'm skeptical as they are pretty heavy (not as heavy as they look, though) so increase rotating mass and unsprung weight pretty significantly. I'm not sure what I'm going to use for a speed control - I've heard rumors about a new Swedish ESC that's really eating up everything out there. Anyone familiar with the Nosram Pearl/LRP SXX? Are they comparable to the Tekin RS (turbo, advanced timing, etc)? Just a couple of things left to do on the 12th car, I have to mount the transponder and bumper and paint a body. Then it's ready to race next week.   Packaging all the wires and poo poo in the 12th scale car was a real pain so it's not as neat as it should be. 51 tooth pinion, 78 tooth spur!
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Oct 18, 2009 23:06
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krushgroove posted:Is that the John Stranahan that posts overly complicated testing results on RCTech.com forums? I had no idea he made parts and things. Yeah, that's the guy, although his actual setups aren't nearly as complicated as other guys' for Pro10 stuff. Take a look at the RC Devil car for instance, with pushrod actuated laydown shocks and so on. The hubs are ugly but identical in principle to the actual CRC pieces (which I also have), being just machined slugs of aluminum. And as I said, not as heavy as they look.
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Oct 18, 2009 23:41
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Not to mention the RC Devil car is around $800. 1/10 might be on the upswing, but we run what might be the only Pro10 class in North America - WGT is far more popular everywhere else. The racing is very likely better in WGT but the WFO nature of Pro10 appeals to me a great deal. WGTs are around the same speed as touring stock, while Pro10s are as fast or faster than nitro touring. Here's another guy who's a tinkerer - http://home.scarlet.be/~dq312531/Q10_Frameset.html
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Oct 19, 2009 03:58
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Ran my first indoor 12th scale race last night. Uh, holy poo poo it's difficult. They ran extended practice because it was the first race of the year. My first couple of laps the car was OK, except for my lack of driving skill. Then it started acting erratically, pulling left or right on acceleration, completely unpredictable. It turns out the only screws I hadn't touched on the car (I bought it used) came out. Those were the screws attaching the side links and center pivot - so no poo poo it was handling like a nightmare, as the only thing holding the pod on was the shock. I was also fighting my lack of flanged wheel bearings on the front. My order didn't show up in time so I had to try to rig something up to keep the front wheels on the car. I wasn't very successful, and a kind soul lent me some bearings for the night. Put it together and went to scale it - lipo cars can be 730 grams. Mine was like 860, because I had used weights to balance it. Even pulling the weights out only took it to 800, and tweaked it really badly because the pod is not designed for brushless motors. The balance is way off to the left, and to compound the issue my speedo and capacitor and so on were mounted on the left of the front of the car. Don't ask me why I did that. Lastly, my goddamn motor would not stay locked in place. It continually slid away from the spur - I don't think there's quite enough purchase on the screws, as the bulkhead is very thick. That caused 3 DNFs and a period of time off the track in my final qualifier. I still managed a bump from the D to C main, where the motor slid forward again. Anyway, I'm completely rearranging the electronics to try to balance the car. I really hope that untweaks the car, but the motor being so far off to the left may make it unfixable. Better luck next week, because I really need more time to concentrate on learning to drive instead of loving around with the car. edit: goddamn, the center pivot nuts were loose, which was impossible to see with a battery in. That's why it was so crappy all night. compressioncut fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Oct 25, 2009 |
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Oct 25, 2009 18:27
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 22:29 |
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^^That's from the same era as my old Turbo Ultima, which was the peak of my offroad racing career. I loved that car. I replaced it with a Schumacher Cougar circa 1990, and that was such a frustrating piece of crap I quit. I got the Stranahan 3-link for my CRC GenX-10 today. It's a really good kit and pretty reasonably priced ($100 IIRC) considering all the stuff included. CF nerf wings, a new, thick CF bottom plate, a new right side bulkhead, a pair of shocks and literally everything else needed to install it, and then some. Even a drill bit. A Dremel or equivalent is needed for some very minor trimming of the shock tower mounts, but if you have one that takes less than two minutes. The suspension movement is now very supple, and beautifully controlled in all axes. This should be good.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.
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Oct 31, 2009 04:54
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