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I was clearing a load of stuff out and found my old rc cars (a Losi JRX Pro SE, a XX and an Associated RC10L2) and a load of shiny stuff that I bought when I last thought I'd have time to get back into things (a brushless motor which is something like a ModelTech XR with some insane rating like 6700kV, and an RC Lab Se7en 6.0 touring car which I built and then never used). Will the buggies explode in a shower of difficult-to-replace pieces if I try and use that insane-o motor in them? Will they be undriveable with something that powerful? Why did I buy such a ludicrous motor? (it had the biggest numbers, it must be the best one to get!) Oh, and are lipos of a similar capacity hugely better than NiMh? (lower internal resistance, perhaps?) They seem remarkably expensive, and even NiMhs go up to ~5300mAh now, which confuses my early-90s RC mind - 2000mAh was about all cells went up to when I last did anything RC-ish.. (Just testing on the street/car park for now, I'll see if I can find a club nearby and what classes they run) edit: Wow, a lot lower internal resistance for LiPo over NiMh. I really should read more before posting :s legooolas fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Aug 27, 2011 |
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Aug 27, 2011 01:04
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 22:29 |
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quote:I don't know of the buggy drivetrains will explode in a shower of diff balls and gears, but you might want to really think about cleaning them up and selling them instead of running a massive brushless motor through them. I'm trying not to spend too much before I find a nearby club to race at and pick a class, so I'm planning on keeping the touring car at least, as long as I can get spare parts (and they don't seem too difficult, at least yet). (The JRX Pro SE at least will be going) quote:I've got a couple of friends that are interested in making an RC-specific app - what sort of thing would you guys like to see? Maybe something like a setup app? Put in what is going on with your car and what car it is and it gives you hints of setup changes (camber, springs, damping, suspension mount-points etc). That's something that would certainly have helped me in the past  As another "reusing old stuff" question, will my old brushless motor controller be likely to work with LiPos (7.4V ones, so I'm not going over on the voltage the controller can handle) or will that be another thing that's likely to cause a horrible explosion and flames?
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Aug 29, 2011 00:19
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quote:Race planner or Race-Day checklist (I always forget SOMETHING)... There are already apps for general checklist things, so in the meantime you could use one of those. (Shopping lists and that) quote:I'm pretty sure the only difference is the newer ones have a low-voltage cutoff, older ones don't? I strongly suspect you are right; I'll have to had a look at the manual for it to see if it can cut off when it gets to a certain voltage. If it can't then this could easily kill the lipos by over-discharging them, which would be an expensive mistake. quote:I could be mistaken, though. If you want good LiPos affordably, go Gens Ace from Hobbypartz.com. Much faster shipping than Hobby King (free shipping in 3 days!) and better overall quality than Turnigy in my limited experience. Mine have held up better than the ProTeks I had. I'm in the UK and haven't found any saddle-pack lipos cheap anywhere yet (although stick packs are pretty cheap, but my cars need saddles) :s I might stick to some cheap NiMhs until I really want to replace a load more stuff...
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Aug 30, 2011 14:13
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Haven't touched anything RC for years, but reading this thread has made me want to dig out my old cars to have a go with it again Dabbled in some racing long ago in various classes, depending what I had at the time, but never anything more than open class days at a track which was local to me at the time. So, since I've not touched any cars for about 15 years or so, some questions: - I've got 3 old cars (Losi XX, Associated RC10L2 pro-10, RCLab 7even 6.0 4wd touring car) which I'm going to try out to see if it's still fun, but no real idea if all the parts are still available in case I break anything. Especially RCLab which seem to have completely vanished! (I bought stuff from ModelTech.co.uk for it in the past but they have since disappeared) - Or should I just sell them and start from scratch with something easier to get parts for? - Are there recommended "good value" electrics for 1/10th on and off-road? HobbyKing does lots of stuff which looks bargainous, e.g. Tunigy LiPos, own-brand high speed servos, bargain ESC and motor combos. Most of my electrics and radio gear are really old now, and I only have one car set anyway. - I quite fancy a go with drifting so do I just need drift tyres for the RCLab touring car or anything more than that? - I have a couple of relatively new NiMh batteries that I'll use until I decide if in going to buy anything major new. I assume LiPos are still the go-to type rather than LiFe? (I have a CoreRC charger I got a year or two ago which can cope with anything it seems I'm in the UK so UK or EU online shops greatly preferred for parts or upgrades. (Have skipped about 100 pages on the middle of the thread, as it would probably take me about 2 years to catch up otherwise, so apologies if lots of this has been asked and answered already! Fake edit: Tempted by the 3racing Sakura D4 for drifting, as that looks shiny and pretty cheap for the rolling chassis 
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Dec 29, 2016 19:22
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Koth posted:So LiPos... are they really THAT dangerous to use? I mean, I've seen what can happen when they are extremely overcharged or pierced with a loving nine inch spike, but should I honestly be worried about keeping them in my house if I'm using them properly? Yes they're "that dangerous". A work chum had a house fire because of a laptop battery, and they're the same tech and just as dangerous, except in an R/C car they're more likely to get stabbed by something in a crash. And you don't need much to stab through those soft-case ones. A slip of a screwdriver when disassembling a phone is enough. Are soft R/C ones much tougher? Get hard-cased ones and keep them in a fire-proof box when they're not in use. (I don't know why soft-case ones are even an option for R/C cars, to be honest)
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Aug 8, 2017 18:10
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I just got a re-release Top Force pretty much for the reason that you "have to" build it, because building and understanding how the car worked was half the interest for me (Also I wanted to buy a car I couldn't afford when I was 14 when it was released first time around) Now to find shocks which are decent and aren't a zillion dollarpounds...
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Mar 1, 2018 23:49
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Nerobro posted:So... Here we go. I built the 3Racing Advance S a few days ago. Did the threaded part of the shock shaft need to go through the seal, rather than assembling the seal over the piston end before putting the piston and clips on? The only car I've had that suggested that ordering also had shocks that leaked, but it's usually possible to re-jig the assembly order.
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Feb 12, 2020 09:23
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MarxCarl posted:Any one have any recommendations for a generic set of nuts, bolts, c-clips etc for Tamiya cars? I've got an old Astute I'm getting running again, and I'm gonna need some new hardware for it. I tend to just look for the appropriate sizes on eBay and buy packs of 50 or whatever of each size of screw and nut in A2 stainless steel, as they are really cheap, look nicer and you'll have plenty of spares if you need them. You can also switch from JIS screws to Allen bolt as they're just easier to work with. E-clips etc have standard sizes too, so should be doable via the same method. Hinge pins I've not had luck finding generic replacements to make sets up, though.
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Jul 4, 2020 01:49
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JudgeJoeBrown posted:Got back into rc after 10 years from racing on-road and 20 for racing on dirt. Nice! 1/8th off road is amazing; the cars are super tough and not actually that expensive at all for entry-ish ones like the Hobao Hyper buggies, whilst being possible to make them go insanely fast if you want to I got one because I had a Turbo Burns for a bit when I was a teenager and loved it but couldn't afford to run/fix it at the time, and current 1/8th electric stuff is waaay cheaper and simpler now. Although I've also decided to rebuild a few vintage 1/10th cars too, which has become stupidly expensive since lockdowns happened :o
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Aug 31, 2021 00:15
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 22:29 |
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Nerobro posted:Those shocks... are pretty terrible. Annoyingly, you'd see a real improvement using plastic piston shocks. Shoot, I probably have a set. Where are you located, generally? Presumably the old Tamiya CVAs which had separate pistons are much better and they changed them to make them cheaper to produce?
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Sep 30, 2021 23:35
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