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eddiewalker
Apr 27, 2004


oXDemosthenesXo posted:

I'm finally circling back to my utility sink project if anyone remembers.

I think I have all of the hardware I need, but as I was taking a closer look at the drain I was planning on using and I noticed that it's capped.

The line with the green valve handle is the drain as far as I can tell, and I was hoping to use it to drain the lines after shutting the main inlet valve.




It appears to be brazed on, is it just a matter of taking the torch to it and pulling it off?

Just cut it. You wonít be able to torch that hot enough to melt the solder with water inside.


https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-0-62...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds

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oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005


Grimey Drawer

eddiewalker posted:

Just cut it. You wonít be able to torch that hot enough to melt the solder with water inside.


https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-0-62...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Good point about the water.

I have one of those cutters already so I'm good to go.

Should I plan on recapping it after, or just leaving it open?

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.



My garbage disposal is leaking through the motor housing, rather than any of the plumbing fittings. Iím guessing a seal on the drive shaft is failing or something. Probably 14 years old.

User serviceable, or no point, just replace?

Bird in a Blender
Nov 17, 2005

It's amazing what they can do with computers these days.


If you can get the same model so you don't have to redo any of the waste pipe, then I would just replace it. It's $100-$200 for a new disposal, and swapping one out can be done in under an hour if you don't have to change any piping. Can't even imagine the time to try and dismantle and reassemble your disposal to replace a seal, which may not even be the issue.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.



Yeah, I'm not at all afraid of swapping units, but if I can fix it for $5 instead of $200, cool cool.

I was sort of assuming it'd be a replacement gig, just thought I should sanity check it. The bolts holding the motor housing on look to be a specialty bit anyhow, so that was my first indication as to the manufacturer's intent. I assume it gets worse from there.

So I guess I'm off to consumer reports.


e: Lookin' at the GE GFC1020N, our maybe the Moen EX75C, they rate better in every way than the Badger 5 that was in there and I love an upgrade

e again: Looks like I'm going with the Moen EX75C

Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Apr 28, 2020

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.



Well that was a super easy swap but holy poo poo I'm taking that Moen back to Home Depot, it's stupidly loud. Not in a broken way, just naturally loud, and it's a lower pitch so it carries through the whole drat house.

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004



how do we feel about rockwool / mineral wool insulation? I think that is what I decided on doing the crawlspace with since it is vented and the mineral wool doesn't pick up moisture like fiberglass

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002


It's not as itchy either, which is a plus when installing.

shortspecialbus
Feb 16, 2006

WOULD YOU ACCOMPANY ME ON A BRISK WALK? I WOULD LIKE TO SPEAK WITH YOU!!




shortspecialbus posted:

Replacing the gasket is probably quick enough that I'll chance one from amazon and hope it helps. If that isn't enough, yeah, I'm done with this stupid loving toilet. I already had the whole tank off about 3 years ago to replace the entire innards and then it was fine for 3 years until it wasn't, and while it's hard to tell for certain, it really seems like the gasket is getting unseated somehow.

Anyways thanks - the "new toilet" route had come up before when wrestling with this dumb thing. I'm in rural WI, so no weird flush capacity laws, so what's a decent toilet for someone who doesn't want a fancy looking toilet and wants one that will just flush properly and not need constant repairs? It shouldn't look like crap, I guess, because this is the main bathroom, but I'm not sure what would look like crap anyways so whatever. I have no special features and just want a good functioning one and am willing to pay above the cheapest for that. Well/septic if that matters.

Edit: ordered THIS in hopes that it works well enough that I can at least wait until this loving pandemic is over.

Since I imagine everyone is very invested in my toilet, this seems to have done the trick I think. I expected the gasket to be conical like the old one, so I was worried I got the wrong thing, but no the old one was just worn and deformed and that's why it was not seating properly anymore. The new one seems to work a charm.

therobit
Aug 19, 2008


Rockwool has a much higher melting point. When I worked insulation in college we used to put it around recessed lighting. It will gently caress your hands up something fierce though. And wear a mask. One time I was insulting a can on a job site and got distracted talking to someone. I wasn't wearing a mask because it was 107 degrees outside. A half inch by half inch piece of rockwool drifted down from the can just as I was taking a breath and turning back to my work. I sucked it right down into my throat. I have asthma and had the worst coughing fit which caused me to fall off the ladder onto the floor. I continued coughing until I had to lean out a window opening to throw up. It really sucked.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.



Therrrrrrre we go

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

Hang that air switch on the cabinet and make a proper drip loop ya filthy animal!

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.



You mean the box in the back on the floor of the cab? Yeah. That's actually just a junction to wire in the dishwasher. But yeah, it needs to be attached to the wall anyhow, it'll happen.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.



Motronic posted:

Hang that air switch on the cabinet and make a proper drip loop ya filthy animal!

Ya happy now, boss?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002


Bad Munki posted:

Therrrrrrre we go



Make an air gap. Just loop the dishwasher drain hose and use a zip tie.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.



The loop's there, was in the first pic, too. You can just see it snaking up to above-sink-height in the back if you look closely.



e: Oh poo poo, maybe I grabbed the wrong hose while I was in there, lol.

Haha, yup, I grabbed the supply hose, whoopsy

Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Apr 29, 2020

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.



There, grabbed the right hose this time, and tucked the supply hose up too just to keep things tidy.




And I spun the thing so the trap turns to the other side, just keeps the plumping tucked back that much more.

Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Apr 29, 2020

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

Bad Munki posted:

Ya happy now, boss?



Thank you for your service.

Bad Munki posted:

There, grabbed the right hose this time, and tucked the supply hose up too just to keep things tidy.

So you've got a Bosch dishwasher I see.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.



Motronic posted:

So you've got a Bosch dishwasher I see.

800 series, I ain't fuckin' around. And now I have a skookum disposal to match.

I don't remember if it was this thread or another that turned me on to the Bosch dishwashers. Might have been the tool thread somehow? Anyhow, best appliance purchase ever, and the one time a dude is legit able to get his wife an appliance for Christmas without being an rear end in a top hat. That was a couple years ago and she's still jazzed, I hear about it at least monthly.

It's so good

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

Yeah, they really are. I recognized the packing material/high loop attachment you had in the cabinet. I recently replaced my old dishwasher that smelled like it was on fire one morning with a Bosch Benchmark. Not because it's so much different from the 800 series, but because I really wanted that time countdown projected on the floor.



I feel like it's entirely fair to judge me for this.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.



Thatís worth at least a couple hundo right there for sure

therobit
Aug 19, 2008


Is the 800 worth the price increase over the 500? The kid at the store said the only difference was noise level but he didn't seem to know a lot so I'm not sure if he was leading me astray. We're planning a kitchen and bath remodel and have never had an under cabinet dishwasher.

Also looking for fridge recommendations. Ice maker and water not required.

devicenull
May 30, 2007


Grimey Drawer

Motronic posted:

Yeah, they really are. I recognized the packing material/high loop attachment you had in the cabinet. I recently replaced my old dishwasher that smelled like it was on fire one morning with a Bosch Benchmark. Not because it's so much different from the 800 series, but because I really wanted that time countdown projected on the floor.



I feel like it's entirely fair to judge me for this.

I uh... now need to replace my perfectly working dishwasher so I can have this.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.



Just so you other Bosch-havers know, hereís a little pro tip for ya: if you ever see error code 24, it means you forgot to knock out the dishwasher drain plug in your new garbage disposal

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...

Fallen Rib

Bad Munki posted:

Just so you other Bosch-havers know, hereís a little pro tip for ya: if you ever see error code 24, it means you forgot to knock out the dishwasher drain plug in your new garbage disposal

Or so you've heard, right?

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.



I just imagine that'd be a likely cause, if one were in such a situation. Obviously, reading the disposal install directions and not skipping step 15 would alleviate this potential issue, but not everyone is as mindful as myself.


therobit posted:

Is the 800 worth the price increase over the 500? The kid at the store said the only difference was noise level but he didn't seem to know a lot so I'm not sure if he was leading me astray. We're planning a kitchen and bath remodel and have never had an under cabinet dishwasher.

Also looking for fridge recommendations. Ice maker and water not required.

I think just go to the Bosch website and have a look yourself, don't rely on what's on display at Lowe's and/or what they're telling you there, as they're more focused on selling what they have in stock or at least normally carry. I believe if you go to the Bosch website, you can pretty much build your own specs and you just end up with a model number that is based on what you want in a washer, so that'll make it clearer what the differences are.

For me, noise was one of the major deciding factors.

As for fridges, I have a Samsung, super happy with it. Used to have dual full size units (like a full size single-door fridge next to a full size single-door freezer) and I don't miss them at all. The Samsung we picked is a full depth one, so it has plenty of space, and we went with a drawer freezer on the bottom and French doors on the top (no separator, so it opens up nice and wide.) No door dispenser, which normally takes up a ton of space in the unit. I guess my only annoyance is that it seems like with the fridge doors shut, I don't have as much view into the freezer drawer as I'd like? It's not really a problem, though, and my wife doesn't experience this sensation so maybe it's just me.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

Bad Munki posted:

I think just go to the Bosch website and have a look yourself, don't rely on what's on display at Lowe's and/or what they're telling you there, as they're more focused on selling what they have in stock or at least normally carry. I believe if you go to the Bosch website, you can pretty much build your own specs and you just end up with a model number that is based on what you want in a washer, so that'll make it clearer what the differences are.

For me, noise was one of the major deciding factors.

Agree with all of this. The Bosch site is quite nice for comparisons between models.

Besides the nifty floor display, the other things on the benchmark series that may be of interest to you came from Thermador (which are MUCH more expensive): a box of some minerals (marketing blah blah) that basically just holds heat from the high temp rinse cycle. Between that and the tub being hot it dries REALLY well. The other thing that I don't think you can get on the 800 is a water softener. While I have a whole house water softener, I don't keep it turned to "soap never feels like it comes off of my skin" levels, just "white crap isn't immediately on the bottom of any sink I've run water and not towel dried", which isn't enough to keep glasses from spotting in a dishwasher. The extra softener does the trick quite nicely.

Bad Munki posted:

As for fridges, I have a Samsung, super happy with it. Used to have dual full size units (like a full size single-door fridge next to a full size single-door freezer) and I don't miss them at all. The Samsung we picked is a full depth one, so it has plenty of space, and we went with a drawer freezer on the bottom and French doors on the top (no separator, so it opens up nice and wide.) No door dispenser, which normally takes up a ton of space in the unit. I guess my only annoyance is that it seems like with the fridge doors shut, I don't have as much view into the freezer drawer as I'd like? It's not really a problem, though, and my wife doesn't experience this sensation so maybe it's just me.

We have amazingly similar taste in appliances. Mine is an LG but basically the same layout/feature set which is what mattered to me. It replaced a side by side that fit in the same physical space, but somehow only held half as much, and made everything difficult to get at unless it was right up front.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.



It may be optional in the 800, but mine has the softener for sure.

Feeding the thing a rinse agent also does wonders for drying and spots.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

Bad Munki posted:

It may be optional in the 800, but mine has the softener for sure.

Feeding the thing a rinse agent also does wonders for drying and spots.

Yeah, I always use rinse agent, but that doesn't necessarily do it with my particular water hardness. So it's definitely an "it depends" whether something like that is gonna be worth it or not to someone.

One thing that should be pointed out about all of these new dishwashers, while they're great in most every way there is one way in which they are not: time. Energy and water efficiency standards have gimped them so forget about ripping through a load of nasty unrinsed plates and pots in an hour like you can do in a noisy old GE/whirlpool/whatever. They extended the cycle times to make up for it. You're looking at over 2 hours now.

I find it a completely acceptable trade off as a well and septic haver.

TURGID TOMFOOLERY
Nov 1, 2019



TURGID TOMFOOLERY posted:

Okay! I managed to figure out how this works and can adjust it.

While learning, I knocked the little hose off the vertical tube and got water everywhere. I was terrified that I had broken it but everything popped back into place lol.


This I couldnít figure out. The screw on the rod/arm thing adjusted how much water filled in the tank and the bowl. So I donít think thatís what you are talking about.

There might be a screw inside the puck object, in that little whole, but again that seemed to raise the water level for both the bowl and the tank at the same time.

I agree that if we had less water in the bowl, along with the new larger volume in the tank, we would reduce mail being returned to sender.

I appreciate your help yíall, this is a fun earning experience.

Any advice on next steps?

Mail is still being returned to sender. Gosh darn it.

therobit
Aug 19, 2008


Motronic posted:

Yeah, I always use rinse agent, but that doesn't necessarily do it with my particular water hardness. So it's definitely an "it depends" whether something like that is gonna be worth it or not to someone.

One thing that should be pointed out about all of these new dishwashers, while they're great in most every way there is one way in which they are not: time. Energy and water efficiency standards have gimped them so forget about ripping through a load of nasty unrinsed plates and pots in an hour like you can do in a noisy old GE/whirlpool/whatever. They extended the cycle times to make up for it. You're looking at over 2 hours now.

I find it a completely acceptable trade off as a well and septic haver.

Yeah, I don't have much of a choice about it unless I buy something grey market though. My old 90s rollaway requires that I remove every trace of food from the dishes prior to washing them or they won't get clean, so that probably make sup for 15-30 minutes at least.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

Eternal greatness only exists only within my posts.

Sing a song of sorrow in a world where your shitpost has vanished!






At one point, the detached garage of my house has a Pittsburgh toilet (just a... free standing shitter with no door or walls perched in a corner)
When I bought it, it had long since been removed, though the drain and flange are still there, just plugged.

As I turn this garage into a workshop, it strikes me that having a utility sink would be great, and my garage has plumbing and a drain.

The actual series of connections that I'd want to make to connect the ~1.5" drain from the sink to the 3" toilet drain and setting up a trap etc isn't really obvious to me, though, and trying to google what I'm trying to do is just a lot of people trying to tie a bathroom sink into a toilet line behind walls etc

What's the correct way to do this / is this a thing that I can logistically do without having to tear up concrete?

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

Hey bebe





It's hard to know for sure without a photo showing what you have to work with.

We'll begin by assuming that the plugged line runs to a sanitary line and not out into the ground, etc.

If there's a vent line somewhere near for that toilet, I'd leave the floor capped & tie your sink drainage into to vent line.

If there is no vent: Then we need to know what kind of flange set-up is there - is it a metal ring set into the concrete, or a flange set into the pipe in the floor?

If you can remove the closet flange (the ring that holds the bolts for the toilet) from the pipe, then it is a straightforward matter of fitting a new piece of pipe in where the flange was, than reducing it to whatever size you want for the sink drain.

Even if it's an old steel ring set-up, then you have to take measurements of the available opening to tie into and fabricate a connection. In such case I'd consider adding some kind of support to your new floor stub pipe because just jamming it into the hole & sealing it with silicone won't be particularly structurally stable. If there is no vent, you should add one when plumbing for your sink.

Gothmog1065
May 14, 2009


I'm roughing in a tub, and I ran across what may be a potential issue:



It looks like I may have 3 potential solutions:

1 - Buy a "shallow" drain, which will probably impact drain flow (I think they had this in before)
2 - Drill through the subfloor and connect it directly below the subfloor
3 - Cut a notch in the subfloor long enough to put the drain there.
4 - Nothing/Something entirely differently.

I'm kind of shooting for 2, but I want to make sure there isn't a better option.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

Eternal greatness only exists only within my posts.

Sing a song of sorrow in a world where your shitpost has vanished!






PainterofCrap posted:

It's hard to know for sure without a photo showing what you have to work with.

We'll begin by assuming that the plugged line runs to a sanitary line and not out into the ground, etc.

If there's a vent line somewhere near for that toilet, I'd leave the floor capped & tie your sink drainage into to vent line.

If there is no vent: Then we need to know what kind of flange set-up is there - is it a metal ring set into the concrete, or a flange set into the pipe in the floor?

If you can remove the closet flange (the ring that holds the bolts for the toilet) from the pipe, then it is a straightforward matter of fitting a new piece of pipe in where the flange was, than reducing it to whatever size you want for the sink drain.

Even if it's an old steel ring set-up, then you have to take measurements of the available opening to tie into and fabricate a connection. In such case I'd consider adding some kind of support to your new floor stub pipe because just jamming it into the hole & sealing it with silicone won't be particularly structurally stable. If there is no vent, you should add one when plumbing for your sink.

Here's what I'm working with


I can't see any obvious vents- there's no obvious vertical pipes poking up from my garage other than the exhaust from the heater, and the rainspouts

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

Hey bebe





Well

You could try the 100% unicorn long-shot and see if that is a screwed-in closet flange. Highly unlikely, but give it a left-loosy & see if it spins. If you win the lottery, then you can just screw a 4" PVC union into it

Bonus crappy glue job if it simply pops free...then you can just glue a 4" PVC coupler in.

If not - and you want to keep the toilet option for the future/next guy - I have a suggestion that's not in the code book and which might give a few posters here the hives:

- Get another closet flange & the cheapest wax ring (or a silicone toilet seal, if you wanna get fancy)

- Flip the new flange upside-down, put the wax between the two faces; install a new set of bolts, and tighten that fucker down.

- Clean off excess wax

- Declare victory as you glue your new sink drain line into the upturned stub. (yes, yes; you're gluing an outie onto an innie against traffic. Holy poo poo. OK, then: just get a coupler)

I mean, after all, this is a sink, and unless you plan on dual duty as a post-6-beer urinal, you're going to be running cat 2 / gray water (at worst) down it, and the traffic demands on it won't be that high.

(edit) you could even begin the step-down process by (mis)using a 3" closet flange.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:41 on May 3, 2020

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015



Anyone have a good way to find/search for poo poo like this. It's 3/4" female to 3/8" barb 90 degree elbow (I think). I've searched lowes and HD and Amazon and google and one of these may bear fruit but none of them did very rapidly and I wondered if I'm just using the wrong search terms, I've been trying stuff along the lines of "3/4" female 3/8" barb elbow"

It's for a cheap rear end shower panel to screw onto the pipe coming out of the wall and feed into the hose that goes to the 4 way valve.

bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 19:32 on May 3, 2020

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...

Fallen Rib

That's an oddball part.

I can only find it in straight: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...01629/300096741

Search terms: 3/4 FGH 3/8" Barb elbow

Either throw on a 3/8 Barb to Barb elbow, or maybe this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/381800508363

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015



Thanks, yeah it doesn't seem like it's readily available as is but two parts combined should work.

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pseudonordic
Aug 31, 2003

The Jack of All Trades

I have an original-to-house 1962 Price Pfister set of bathtub handles/valves with a shower diverter in the middle that has a leak. Doesnít matter if the diverter is engaged or not, if waterís running, thereís a leak from the diverter knob.



I can remove the screw but the knob doesnít want to seem to budge. Iím hoping to pull the diverter stem/cartridge/whatever itís called to find a part number. Iím trying to do this without marring the vintage tile.

Any suggestions?

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