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Is presort standard better or worse for your pipes than wet wipes? E: oh god what a snipe
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May 23, 2020 02:57
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TURGID TOMFOOLERY posted:Okay further research has been completed. Honestly, it sounds like you're not getting enough water in the bowl to fully create the suction to pull out all your waste. When you flush, the toilet should fill then quickly drain out. When it's all done and air gets back up to release the vacuum in the pipe, you should have almost no water in your bowl, at which point the tank and bowl will fill up. It just seems like the vacuum isn't being held long enough to pull your poo poo over the turn in the toilet.
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May 23, 2020 03:49
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corgski posted:Is presort standard better or worse for your pipes than wet wipes? Thread title
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May 23, 2020 07:04
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My wife & I are in the process of purchasing a home, and I wanted to solicit some feedback from the sewer inspection that we got. I felt our plumber's commentary was a bit light on the insight department; they highlighted the presence of some roots at the connection of the clay to cast iron and that there was pitting/scaling on the cast iron pipes, and then a portion where the sewer is holding water. What I want to know is -- what am I looking at? Sewer Camera Video: https://youtu.be/6hwIUQr_fJ0 My concerns/questions:
Note: The footage is taken from a pulled toilet in the finished basement, which should be in slab...which is where my concerns arise in case we have to replace it soon. We're in Illinois, so the winters get cold and summers get decently hot/humid, if that matters.
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May 24, 2020 00:00
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Gothmog1065 posted:Honestly, it sounds like you're not getting enough water in the bowl to fully create the suction to pull out all your waste. When you flush, the toilet should fill then quickly drain out. When it's all done and air gets back up to release the vacuum in the pipe, you should have almost no water in your bowl, at which point the tank and bowl will fill up. It just seems like the vacuum isn't being held long enough to pull your poo poo over the turn in the toilet. Everything you said makes a ton of sense. But it seems to have made an improvement. Still not perfect, but better than when I tried increasing the water level of the tank and bowl.
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May 24, 2020 03:05
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My garbage disposal has reached the end of the line. It has rusted enough that one of the blades is gone, which has made it unbalanced and too shakey. What disposal should I buy? I am on city sewer hookup and would like something quiet and powerful.
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May 27, 2020 05:52
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canyoneer posted:My garbage disposal has reached the end of the line. It has rusted enough that one of the blades is gone, which has made it unbalanced and too shakey. What's your budget? I had a badger 5 that went out on me but prior to that it was fine, it's standard fare. I replaced it with a Moen EX75C for about ten minutes. I turned it on and holy gently caress it was loud, like not broken loud, just naturally loud. So bad. So I swapped it out and put in an Insinkerator Prestige. It's absolutely incredible. A full pony under the sink and it's dead silent. The sound of the running water from the faucet is louder than the disposal itself. I'm blown away. That unit was $$$, but if you want "quiet and powerful," it'll cure what ails you, I absolutely promise. Any of that Evolution line from Insinkerator is great. Prestige, Excel, whatever. My adventure starts here if you want to read along: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3131944&userid=143187&perpage=40&pagenumber=4#post504453414 Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 17:37 on May 27, 2020 |
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May 27, 2020 17:33
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Bad Munki posted:What's your budget? I had a badger 5 that went out on me but prior to that it was fine, it's standard fare. I replaced it with a Moen EX75C for about ten minutes. I turned it on and holy gently caress it was loud, like not broken loud, just naturally loud. So bad. So I swapped it out and put in an Insinkerator Prestige. It's absolutely incredible. A full pony under the sink and it's dead silent. The sound of the running water from the faucet is louder than the disposal itself. I'm blown away. The more I think about it, I figure a Badger 5 is probably good for me. I don't expect I'm going to be in this house for 20 years, so I suppose I don't need a bougie watermelon grinder with a 20 year warranty. I was looking at the Waste King 9980 which looks like a monster.
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May 27, 2020 17:50
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Yeah, badger 5 is the go-to standard, I think. It's not stupidly loud (like the Moen I briefly had, sheesh) and it works fine. Nobody would ever be surprised--good or bad--to find a badger 5 under the sink. It's there, it exists, it's normal, and you move on. Nothing wrong there. The one I had did start leaking, but that was, like, 14 years into its life? Also they're eminently available, so you can get one today with zero effort in the hunt.
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May 27, 2020 17:59
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So I've been working on the house like gangbusters during this quarantine. New roof, replaced a beam forestalling major impending structural failure due to water damage in the carport, about to replace leaky faucets in both bathrooms. Meanwhile in the back yard sits this:  It's been raining for about thirty days straight so I only just noticed this:  Oddly damp over here  Inside the shack:  Steady drip out of this:  Here's the model:  And some other stuff in there:  What's wrong with this critter?
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May 27, 2020 20:28
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The pressure release valve is dripping which means it needs to be replaced and if it still is dripping then you need a new tank Edit: which thing is leaking the tube or the spigot? The tube is the pressure release valve. The spigot is to drain it typically. You can try to close it with a wrench handle. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 02:10 on May 28, 2020 |
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May 28, 2020 02:07
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Well, before you go assuming the relief valve is faulty (if that is indeed what’s dripping) do check that it’s not, like, relieving excessive pressure as it’s designed to do? If the house is in a high pressure area, there’ll be a pressure reducing valve, and those have a limited lifespan as well. I found this out when my relief valve also wouldn’t stop leaking, and a new one didn’t fix it. I checked the house pressure and it was right at the max pressure for the relief valve. My pressure reducing valve had gone out and I was getting the full 200psi, which the relief valve was helpfully bleeding off to 150. Just...make sure the leak isn’t a symptom of another, perhaps more dangerous issue.
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May 28, 2020 02:51
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Bad Munki posted:Well, before you go assuming the relief valve is faulty (if that is indeed what’s dripping) do check that it’s not, like, relieving excessive pressure as it’s designed to do? If the house is in a high pressure area, there’ll be a pressure reducing valve, and those have a limited lifespan as well. My incoming water line has been replaced (and with a new regulator) within the last few years. E: leak is definitely out of the tube.
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May 28, 2020 03:18
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I've got the new valve and the fittings to re run the drain (the old one was all sweated together and no room in the closet to remove it without cutting). I can't get that valve to turn even with enough pressure that I start to rotate the water heater. Any tips on loosening that up? E: nm, got it tactlessbastard fucked around with this message at 17:34 on May 28, 2020 |
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May 28, 2020 16:06
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Public service announcement: Sometimes water heaters have more than one valve to cut off the water supply. Don't turn one off and then think you're not going to get soaked when you remove the pressure release valve.
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May 28, 2020 20:12
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tactlessbastard posted:I've got the new valve and the fittings to re run the drain (the old one was all sweated together and no room in the closet to remove it without cutting). Goddamn dude, is the top of your water heater covered in rat poo poo? Also: the storm collar where the flue pipe passes through the roof, is leaking like a sieve.
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May 28, 2020 23:34
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PainterofCrap posted:Goddamn dude, is the top of your water heater covered in rat poo poo? I mean, his water heater is in a lovely lean-to outside of the house so none of that is very unexpected.
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May 29, 2020 00:31
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If I was a rat, drat sure I'd be chilling on top of a warm water heater in a shack when it's cold outside. Also, that WH is almost 30 years old (09/1991). I guess it won't cause much damage if it blows, but I don't think I'd be fiddling with it. It had a very good life.
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May 29, 2020 01:09
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PainterofCrap posted:Goddamn dude, is the top of your water heater covered in rat poo poo? Yeah,  I cleaned it all out and replaced all the insulation they had chewed up. Also left behind a mighty trap.
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May 29, 2020 01:15
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TURGID TOMFOOLERY posted:Everything you said makes a ton of sense. I don’t get it. I tried 5 different levels of water and there was no setting where all the waste was flushed on one flush. Is it just the toilet? My poops have not changed in size. It’s just something about the toilet in my new apartment.
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May 30, 2020 06:25
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The only other thing I can think of is that the vent is obstructed and you are experiencing vacuum lock. This would show up even on a clean flush/piss only.
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May 30, 2020 17:14
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I had originally posted my unintended shower remodel adventure in the Home Spergin thread, but I have a question that goes here. To make a long story short, we ended up having to tear out the poorly constructed tiled shower in the home we bought last year, and the shower remodeler told us we had to have a plumber replace the drain. We called a plumber out, and he ended up cutting the existing drain head off, and used one of those Fernco type rubber couplings with two steel clamping bands to secure a stub piece to the existing drain and extend it up for the tilers to cut/use. Something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-3-in-x-3-in-PVC-DWV-Mechanical-Flexible-Coupling-P1056-33/100372296 I can't help but feel like the original could have been removed and/or the new stubout somehow glued to the existing. They're going to do a concrete pan and such, but I'm just worried about long-term lifespan of the coupling.
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May 31, 2020 16:53
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Kitchen sink advice needed- I replaced a cheapish Peerless pulldown faucet with a nice Moen pullout type. (I'm too loving  for this poo poo) The Peerless used 2 holes in the sink and left the 3rd for a soap dispenser. Which we filled and never used over the 4-5 years or so we had it. But, now I'm taken with a perverse desire to use the soap dispenser that came with the Moen. Problem is the faucet uses all 3 of the center holes (sink has a 4th on the right for an R.O. faucet) I happen to have a 1 1/4" hole saw, which is a good diameter, and have an itch to drill a hole on the left back deck, plop in one of the 2 soapers I now have. But, Idk how tough the stainless steel Kohler typically makes their sink with, if it would be a loving disaster. Thoughts? Also, troll me but don't report me for mixing kohler and moen, pls tia
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Jun 1, 2020 20:16
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Kohler is trash. Sorry, had to say it. Anyway, you will want a carbide tipped hole saw, not some $5 harbor freight special. Pre-drill the pilot hole. Make sure you keep the steel and the hole saw lubricated. Don't force it or go too fast or you will burn your bit out. Again, do not forget the lubrication!
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Jun 2, 2020 04:16
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Would this be the appropriate place to ask about exterior waterproofing/French drain? The left side of my detached garage is downhill from the property next to us with about four feet of the garage being below grade. While I don't notice any standing water inside the garage ever, I do notice lots of dampness on the cinder block, the paint flaking off the lower cinder blocks, and general mold/mildew issues on things left near that side of the garage (boxes, for example). My plan is to do the following: Excavate along that side of the garage Clean cinder blocks, use hydraulic cement for any large cracks or anything like that 2-3 coats of liquid rubber Install a dimple board/foundation wrap Lay filter fabric/some gravel Lay 4" corrugated drain pipe/top with a couple inches of gravel Backfill with soil Does this seem right? Any suggestions on where I can get the foundation wrap? HD sells this kit: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DMX-AG-65-6-ft-x-6-6-ft-DMX-AG-Foundation-Wrap-Kit-198-20-AG-Kit/310516641 Which is more than tall/long enough to do the entire side and rear of the garage but its currently out of stock and no idea if it's discontinued or something. I've found similar products at Mendards but the closest is like a 90 minute drive. Nothing at Lowe's.
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Jun 3, 2020 18:19
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BubbaGrace posted:Kohler is trash. Sorry, had to say it. Anyway, you will want a carbide tipped hole saw, not some $5 harbor freight special. Pre-drill the pilot hole. Make sure you keep the steel and the hole saw lubricated. Don't force it or go too fast or you will burn your bit out. Again, do not forget the lubrication! I tried it with a Milwaukee bimetal hole saw and that poo poo just laughed me off. I got plenty of soap for lube, heh. Youtubers were going with a step bit so if my local hardware has either a carbide hole saw, I'll get it; if not and a step bit, I'll get that.
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Jun 3, 2020 18:44
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What isn't garbage for plumbing fixtures? Our lowes lowest bidder kitchen faucet has decided it no longer wants to turn. From what I can tell, it's not repairable and the manufacturer is crap at support. I've got real plumbing supply place nearby that will sell to me, so I should be able to get whatever. Are American Standard faucets any good? I had one of their toilets crack on me, and they sent me a replacement within a week or so with no questions asked.
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Jun 3, 2020 23:32
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devicenull posted:What isn't garbage for plumbing fixtures? Our lowes lowest bidder kitchen faucet has decided it no longer wants to turn. From what I can tell, it's not repairable and the manufacturer is crap at support. I'm a huge fan of Grohe, Hansgrohe and the ilk. My mom had a 15-year old Grohe faucet and they'd still send parts. Our 10-year old Hansgrohe's rubber sprayer button wore out and they sent one next-day air for 0$. We're going all Grohe shower controls in our new shower.
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Jun 4, 2020 02:35
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Two questions 1) Should this pipe have a u-bend on it? It's for draining the AC condensation  2) Any idea what this pipe on the left would be for? Looks like it goes back down to the sewer line, but not sure if its actually connected or not 
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Jun 5, 2020 20:35
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Ahhhh gently caress. Today my wife was filling the tub, and said "eww! there's some bugs in here". I go and take a look. It's two little grey bugs hanging out on the intake for the tub's water jets. After cleaning them up, she's a little grossed out and doesn't feel like soaking in the bug water. Whatever. A few minutes later, I'm thinking, "I've never seen a bug like that before. I wonder what it was. Pretty unique that it has 3 little but antennae like that" Silverfish my friends. I do some light reading and see the thing they like is damp spaces. So now I'm a bit worried. Back when we bought the house, the inspector noted that there appeared to have been some water damage at some point under that bathroom. It seemed dry now, but could be a problem later if there was still a leak. As part of the deal on buying the house, we had them have a guy do some sealing and checking there, as well as some other work. The construction guy and the inspector both basically agree that essentially the subfloor is fine for now, and that fixing it isn't a huge-rush problem. They suggest that we get the bathroom remodeled in a few years, and do a sure-fire check of it then. So, a bit ago, I pop the cover panel in the wall that hides the pump for the tub jets. It smells a bit musty in there. I don't see any obvious leaks on the pipes, or the pump. But.. it also seems less-than-dry to me. Like maybe a tiny leak is going on... the wood of the floor reminds me of a rag-dried cutting board. So I think something is still leaking in there. I'm trying to sort out what I can do to in the immediate term to address this. I'm looking at the tub jets... could the seals on those be weak? Could I re-seal them? Should I have a plumber come out here and tear out the drywall on the outside of bathroom and dig into the stuff that I can't see? Should I be getting an exterminator?
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Jun 6, 2020 18:20
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Is a plumbing supply house the best place to buy kitchen and bathroom sinks? Home Depot pretty much only has Kohler in their store. Anyone know of a good place in the Portland area?
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Jun 7, 2020 02:33
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Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:Ahhhh gently caress. Can't tell you much about the tub, but for silverfish I wouldn't really bother with an exterminator. You can buy the same sort of things online and pretty safe to handle. https://www.domyown.com/silverfish-pest-control-a-269.html has some good guides . Personally, I went with Delta Dust to treat for silverfish, but addressing the moisture issue is going to be pretty important.
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Jun 8, 2020 01:44
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Replacing a toilet. Would you re-use this flange, or is it time to slap a repair flange on top of it? It isn't destroyed or anything. It's just warped and bumpy since the original installer didn't mount it onto a proper, flat surface. And the old toilet wasn't squared to the wall (was crooked) so I'm wondering if this played a part in that.   Also gently caress the person who installed a 10-inch rough-in when there was plenty of room for a 12". melon cat fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Jun 8, 2020 |
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Jun 8, 2020 18:49
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melon cat posted:Replacing a toilet. Would you re-use this flange, or is it time to slap a repair flange on top of it? I've seen MUCH worse toilet flanges than that. I say reuse it. As for being crooked, the slots on the bolt holes can help that somewhat. The bolts don't have to be all the way to the ends of the slots. You would only need to replace the flange if it's mounted such that the toilet can't rotated to be square to the wall.
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Jun 8, 2020 19:04
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kid sinister posted:I've seen MUCH worse toilet flanges than that. I say reuse it. As for being crooked, the slots on the bolt holes can help that somewhat. The bolts don't have to be all the way to the ends of the slots. You would only need to replace the flange if it's mounted such that the toilet can't rotated to be square to the wall. Alright I'll try to work with this one. Just hoping that I can properly square this one to the wall, unlike the old toilet. Also- just noticed that the existing flange only has two screws fastening it to the floor. What type and # screws are usually proper code for this? I'm considering using these Red Head drive anchors.There is a bit of rot in the concrete floor beneath, but I'd feel better if I had all 4 screws in instead of two. melon cat fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Jun 8, 2020 |
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Jun 8, 2020 19:17
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Last week my water heater started venting Went out and bought a pressure guage, measured my PSI at 150-ish, saw some reports about pressure problems in my area (specifically low pressure but whatever) Adjusted the screw on my pressure regulator until it was basically falling out and should have been giving me 30psi, and the gauge stayed at 150 Gave it a day since I needed to go buy parts and such, pressure had dropped to below 140 the next day, so my water heater wasn't Went to water my plants, found that I had basically no water pressure once I turned on my hose. Gauge still reading at 140. So I'm maybe misunderstanding how a pressure regulator should work But it seems like it's not reducing the static pressure in my system, but is correctly regulating the flow rate Is that how a pressure regulator is expected to work, or is this all coincidence and I still need to replace it? (I'm replacing it anyway since I've got a weeping joint near it and it's a good excuse)
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Jun 8, 2020 19:44
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If the system pressure downstream from the regulator is already high, adjusting the regulator down won't drop it. You have to bleed the pressure off. It's a one-way thing, it won't somehow suck water back out of your pressurized system to lower it. I may be wrong but I think best practice would be to knowingly set the pressure lower than you want, bleed off excess pressure through a faucet or something, and then adjust the regulator as watch your gauge while creeping up to target pressure from below.
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Jun 8, 2020 21:05
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Bad Munki posted:If the system pressure downstream from the regulator is already high, adjusting the regulator down won't drop it. You have to bleed the pressure off. It's a one-way thing, it won't somehow suck water back out of your pressurized system to lower it. Right so, I suppose I missed a detail-- Pressure reads 140 I crank down the regulator so it's down to 30 or whatever I go flush a toilet Pressure reads 30, slowly creeps back up to 140 once the toilet stops refilling
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Jun 8, 2020 21:13
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Okay. In that case, your regulator probably is, indeed, dying or dead. It's slowing the water, but not stopping it, as you saw. When I had a failed regulator in a 200psi zone, that was the exact failure mode. I could slow the flow with the regulator but not get it to cut off at target pressure, so the house would creep up until the water heater relief blew at 150. Oh, and mind the brand on your replacement unless you want to do this again in a year. At the very least, go for all-brass.
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Jun 8, 2020 21:19
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Most common residential PRVs (Zurn, Watts) only allow a max pressure of 75 psi, so if you're getting more than that - it's shot.
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Jun 8, 2020 21:37
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