|
Well, the guy I had out the other day said that the tank was bad, that the bladder had ruptured. So I took out the old tank, after following the instructions, got all the pipes hooked back up with the tape and putty in the right spots. After firing everything back up, I made sure there were no leaks and let the tank fill up. The only thing that I am at a loss for now, is the pressure switch. I wrote down the way the wires in the box were hooked up, however, after looking at the cover, it looks like the switch was wired wrong to begin with. I hooked it back up the way it was originally, the power from the box coming in on ths Left most Line and Load wires. code:I took the cover off and changed the wires to correspond to the diagram on it, code:I'm tired, cranky, hungry, and on dial-up so any suggestions would be apprecieated. Tolstoi fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Jun 28, 2009 |
#
?
Jun 28, 2009 05:32
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 01:50 |
|
|
I've never wired a pressure switch, but logic dictates that the incoming power should be connected to "line" and the pump wires should be connected to "load".
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2009 05:53
|
|
|
Mario posted:I've never wired a pressure switch, but logic dictates that the incoming power should be connected to "line" and the pump wires should be connected to "load". Agreed. Black and white from power to line, then black and white from pump to line side, matching colors. If your terminals really are Line Load Load Line, then it should be black black white white; power, pump, pump, power. code:
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2009 18:11
|
|
|
yeah, it turned out to be Black Black White White, but I had the two black wires swapped for some reason. The nieghbors boyfriend is an electrician and came by and showed me where I had screwed up, and how the switch had fused together from the overload. I took it off and cleaned it and put the wires back in place and it worked out fine. I did go and get a replacement switch just in case and swapped them out. I am now going to take a much delayed high pressure shower, and celebrate my victory over failure with pork chops and rum.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2009 21:49
|
|
|
I suppose it's time to finally take care of this... I got a crapper on my second floor that doesn't like to flush every time. What I mean is that when I flush the toilet, the tank will empty and the water will swirl around in the bowl, but sometimes it just won't go down the hole. That's the thing that gets me, it only happens some of the time. It's one of those crazy Eljers with the built-in overflow tube. Any ideas?
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2009 16:05
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:I suppose it's time to finally take care of this... I got a crapper on my second floor that doesn't like to flush every time. What I mean is that when I flush the toilet, the tank will empty and the water will swirl around in the bowl, but sometimes it just won't go down the hole. That's the thing that gets me, it only happens some of the time. It's one of those crazy Eljers with the built-in overflow tube. Any ideas? How old is the toilet. Is the water level in the tank set at the proper level. ( 1 inch below the vertical tube in the tank.) There could be something stuck in a drain line too. Any idea what type of drainage pipes are installed in your house?
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2009 16:54
|
|
|
My mom just bought a foreclosed cabin, and I'm going to be redoing all the plumbing since the previous owners damaged or removed nearly everything before they got kicked out. Since it's going to be more of a weekend destination, I thought a tankless water heater would be the most economical method for taking hot showers and washing the occasional load of laundry. I can't decide though, whether I want to go with electric or LP. The electric heater is cheaper, but I'd have to upgrade the panel from 100 amps to 200. LP is a bit more expensive, but I've never installed a gas appliance before. I've also heard conflicting reports about how well they actually work. I guess my question for you is, which one would you install? Or would you skip tankless altogether and go for a 40 gallon electric tank heater?
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2009 05:09
|
|
|
Mthrboard posted:My mom just bought a foreclosed cabin, and I'm going to be redoing all the plumbing since the previous owners damaged or removed nearly everything before they got kicked out. Since it's going to be more of a weekend destination, I thought a tank less water heater would be the most economical method for taking hot showers and washing the occasional load of laundry. I can't decide though, whether I want to go with electric or LP. The electric heater is cheaper, but I'd have to upgrade the panel from 100 amps to 200. LP is a bit more expensive, but I've never installed a gas appliance before. I've also heard conflicting reports about how well they actually work. I guess my question for you is, which one would you install? Or would you skip tank less altogether and go for a 40 gallon electric tank heater? I've dealt with Takagi tank less water heaters and in my opinion they are crap. They cost a poo poo ton to buy and the gallons per minute suck. You have to run gas to them and the amount you'd use wouldn't be worth it. I would suggest turning on the water heater when you come up to the cabin. It should only take an hour or two to heat it up. Do you drain the water out of the cabin during winter? Or is it not that cold of a climate that it matters?
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2009 05:58
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:How old is the toilet. Is the water level in the tank set at the proper level. ( 1 inch below the vertical tube in the tank.) It's a little over 30 years old and the water level is set properly. The drain pipes are all PVC. Also, an unrelated toilet... I'm the maintenance guy for the family business and at one of our locations, we've got a toilet with the handle on the side, which makes it VERY hard for the arm to get enough movement range to actually lift the flapper enough that it will 'flap' up by itself. Do those side-handled tanks need special arms or am I retarded and can't bend the arm just right?
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2009 06:32
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:It's a little over 30 years old and the water level is set properly. The drain pipes are all PVC. If the toilet is 30 years old i'd just replace the toilet. It would be a lot easier since i doubt there is anything in the pvc piping. In my personal opinion i'd suggest a American standard cadet 3. For about $170 you can get a pretty good toilet that is almost un clog able. The only more bad rear end toilet i've seen is American Standards Champion 4. And yes you will have to get the manufactures handle if the handle is on the side of the toilet. A standard straight plastic one wont work.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2009 14:07
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:If the toilet is 30 years old i'd just replace the toilet. It would be a lot easier since i doubt there is anything in the pvc piping. In my personal opinion i'd suggest a American standard cadet 3. For about $170 you can get a pretty good toilet that is almost un clog able. The only more bad rear end toilet i've seen is American Standards Champion 4. Do you know where I can find the engineer that designed this shitter so I can shove this bent handle down his throat?
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2009 18:50
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Do you know where I can find the engineer that designed this shitter so I can shove this bent handle down his throat? Can i get a picture of the toilet handle to see if its the one im thinking of.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2009 23:58
|
|
|
I don't know when the next time I'll be passing by that store... I'll try and remember to snap a picture.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 03:08
|
|
|
If your toilet makes a buzzing sound and stings when you use it, check the tank for the following: Amazing where bees will pop up. RdRash found this on Wednesday hunting down a leak in the pipes.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2009 19:41
|
|
|
PulsarD posted:If your toilet makes a buzzing sound and stings when you use it, check the tank for the following: Stuff of nightmares.
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2009 01:51
|
|
|
PulsarD posted:If your toilet makes a buzzing sound and stings when you use it, check the tank for the following: That's a wasp nest, not bees.
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2009 03:56
|
|
|
While tracking down a sewer smell at PulsarD's house in his basement bathroom. I found something of interest. Note: I first checked all the traps to make sure they haven't dried up. I then checked clean outs to make sure they weren't leaking any sewer gas. While looking in the cabinet of his lav. I found a dvd cover of a porno behind a drawer in the cabinet. There was also some skin moisturizer next to it hidden behind the drawer. After the porn case found i discovered a clean out plug that was only hand tight with out any Teflon tape or dope on it. *side note, the porn dvd was "naughty girls gone wild" if anyone cares.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2009 05:37
|
|
|
Yay for porn from the previous owners. Theres also a dashboard in the shed. All kinds of weird junk left around like those and antlers EVERYWHERE.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2009 16:52
|
|
|
My wife and I are currently demolishing the kitchen of our newly purchased 1930s house. I just removed the kitchen sink and cabinets today. -The copper hot water line to the kitchen sink is corroded and looks like it's been leaking slowly for some time, and the leak grew when we were removing the old crappy cabinets. There's a few inches of pipe below the leak that doesn't appear to be corroded. -Both shut off valves (hot and cold water) were nearly corroded shut and one or both of them leaks. -The only valve upstream of the kitchen hot water line is the one right after the hot water heater, and it is corroded and leaks. Consequently, even with that valve shut off, water is still drizzling out of the end of the hot water line in the kitchen and also through the hole in the pipe. -The main water shut off valve has thoroughly corroded and won't budge an inch. I don't want to try forcing it for fear of breaking it and flooding the basement. QUESTION: How do I replace a shut off valve (or plug up the pipe) under the kitchen sink when there's still a small amount of water flowing through it? A temporary fix would be fine just so I can turn the hot water back on and shower
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2009 00:04
|
|
|
dyne posted:QUESTION: How do I replace a shut off valve (or plug up the pipe) under the kitchen sink when there's still a small amount of water flowing through it? A temporary fix would be fine just so I can turn the hot water back on and shower
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2009 00:10
|
|
|
dyne posted:My wife and I are currently demolishing the kitchen of our newly purchased 1930s house. I just removed the kitchen sink and cabinets today. You could do a live switch with a shark bite valve. If you don't feel like doing a live hook up (which i don't blame ya) you can call the city out to locate where your water meter is at. You can even have them shut it off (location service is free for all utilitys). I don't know if they would shut it off for you for free but it may be worth it. And you can always turn it back on yourself. Don't worry about pulling a permit either and they shouldn't ask. You are authorized to do any repairs on your house with out puling a permit.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2009 00:23
|
|
|
grover posted:Can you shut off water to your house, either by a main valve or at the water meter?  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. I believe this is the main valve, right next to the meter. There are no other valves prior to the water heater besides the one right before the heater (which is also corroded and leaks). That pipe plunges into the concrete basement floor. Rd Rash 1000cc posted:You could do a live switch with a shark bite valve. That's not available at some place locally like Lowes, is it? I'd like to at least cap the kitchen hot water pipe if I can't put a valve on so I can turn the hot water to the rest of the house on. I'll do something about the main valve soon, I just wanna get the hot water back on so I can shower
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2009 00:40
|
|
|
dyne posted:
That is your meter but there could also be a street service. They're usually outside but with an older house they're over grown. (you'd need the city to find it so you can turn it off ) First thing i'd do is grab a pair of channel locks and turn on that gave galve next to your meter. Obviously that meter is newer so they turned off the water either at that valve or at the street. If you really feel that you've over your head pay a plumber to install a new shut off valve for the entire house so you can then do repairs easier and on your own time.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2009 08:14
|
|
|
dyne posted:
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2009 10:51
|
|
|
grover posted:FYI, it looks like there are two valves here- one is obvious, the other is the little handleless gate valve just on the other side of the meter that you have to use a wrench or street key to turn. As Rd Rash suggested, try them both. After the meter, the pipe is wrapped in plastic over some sort of thin insulation, just by squeezing it I can't feel anything other than pipe. As far as my leaking kitchen pipe is concerned, I found a push-on shut off valve at Lowes that's working well. I'm going to have to replace the pipe eventually because the valve is now only like 4" off the floor
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2009 03:06
|
|
|
dyne posted:After the meter, the pipe is wrapped in plastic over some sort of thin insulation, just by squeezing it I can't feel anything other than pipe. The push on angle stop is similar to shark bite design. I would suggest cleaning the pipe before you put it on with "sand screen"(scratch pad, sand paper, etc) and then clean off the pipe and put it on. I've noticed when you put a push on angle stop on. You put it on then turn a 1/4 turn to the right or left to seat the O ring. You do realize unless you turn down or turn off your water heater for a couple hrs. The water will be coming out at least 120°F . So a live hook up can burn you. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 07:08 on Jul 21, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2009 07:05
|
|
|
dyne posted:After the meter, the pipe is wrapped in plastic over some sort of thin insulation, just by squeezing it I can't feel anything other than pipe.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2009 10:46
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:The push on angle stop is similar to shark bite design. I would suggest cleaning the pipe before you put it on with "sand screen"(scratch pad, sand paper, etc) and then clean off the pipe and put it on. I've noticed when you put a push on angle stop on. You put it on then turn a 1/4 turn to the right or left to seat the O ring. grover posted:I thought I saw it in the photo, but it may have just been a wrinkle in the plastic. The city should always have a way of shutting off water to your house, though, you just have to find it. In my area, it's easily accessible to homeowners to open/shut the valve ourselves if we want to.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2009 15:08
|
|
|
Expect a massive quote. There should be a cutoff outside that you can use and then it is no different than replacing any other shutoff, just a bit bigger. Using MAPP gas will make it easier to sweat a larger pipe.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2009 15:54
|
|
|
jackyl posted:Expect a massive quote. There should be a cutoff outside that you can use and then it is no different than replacing any other shutoff, just a bit bigger. Using MAPP gas will make it easier to sweat a larger pipe.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2009 17:57
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Unless he's soldered alot before i doubt he will want to try to learn how to on a live line. Sharkbites would do it too, albeit at a higher expense.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2009 18:26
|
|
|
jackyl posted:Sharkbites would do it too, albeit at a higher expense. Honestly I wouldnt even try soldering it live. And a shark bite fitting only coasts like $10 roughly. I think its worth it in this case. Its not like he's plumbing his whole house in them.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2009 18:38
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Honestly I wouldnt even try soldering it live. And a shark bite fitting only coasts like $10 roughly. I think its worth it in this case. Its not like he's plumbing his whole house in them. Oh yeah, I wasn't recommending doing it live (even with a sharkbite), just after he found the street shutoff.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2009 22:13
|
|
|
jackyl posted:Expect a massive quote. There should be a cutoff outside that you can use and then it is no different than replacing any other shutoff, just a bit bigger. Using MAPP gas will make it easier to sweat a larger pipe.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2009 03:26
|
|
|
dyne posted:Actually it was only $100 and he takes care of everything (calling the city and shutting off the water, replacing the valve, and turning the water back on). I think that's pretty reasonable (but I have no experience with plumbing quotes, so I dunno) Ya that sounds really cheap. Is he license and bonded?
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2009 06:31
|
|
|
That is extremely cheap. I would have expected a much higher one.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2009 12:58
|
|
|
I'm not sure if this is a plumbing question, but I don't think it was worth creating it's own thread. Just bought a house, yay me. Has an ugly finished basement, but hey they left the dehumidifier! I had it run for a few days, but I just now noticed that instead of putting the water in the tank inside it, it seems to just dump it on the floor. There is a small nipple valve type thing on the back that I imagine it's leaking from. I can push it in, like it's spring loaded or something but it doesn't seem to do much. When we moved in apparently the tank was full of water, I have no idea what would have happened to it that now it just deposits water on the ground instead of the tank. I took the side cover off last night and the nipple is connected to a tube that runs from under the compressor/coil area to the back. There doesn't seem to be much of an obvious "hey this should be switched or shifted" or whatever. My only guess right now is that the default action for the dehumidifier is to drain through that valve with a hose attached to direct the water flow, but if it's plugged up the hose on the inside will eventually fill up and then it switches to filling the tank. But that's just a guess at this point. Ideas?
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2009 13:29
|
|
|
dreesemonkey posted:
Attach a hose that leads back into the bucket... doesn't account for overflows though.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2009 03:27
|
|
|
How big a deal is it to replace a sillcock? Both mine are bad. One leaks behind the wall when you turn it on, but shutting the valve off stops the leak. A little research suggests it is frost free and leaking back by the valve. The second faucet just suddenly started pouring out water, it's probably leaking 50-60 gallons per day so I need to fix it ASAP. It leaks whether the valve faucet handle is open or closed. Hopefully I can rebuild these things or replace parts inside them without having to replace the whole sillcock which I suspect may stretch beyond my plumbing skill level. I know about tightening the nut/washer thing but I think the problem is probably more than a loose nut.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2009 09:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 01:50 |
|
|
wormil posted:How big a deal is it to replace a sillcock? Both mine are bad. One leaks behind the wall when you turn it on, but shutting the valve off stops the leak. A little research suggests it is frost free and leaking back by the valve. The second faucet just suddenly started pouring out water, it's probably leaking 50-60 gallons per day so I need to fix it ASAP. It leaks whether the valve faucet handle is open or closed. Hopefully I can rebuild these things or replace parts inside them without having to replace the whole sillcock which I suspect may stretch beyond my plumbing skill level. I know about tightening the nut/washer thing but I think the problem is probably more than a loose nut. Do you have access to the hosebib in your crawlspace or wall. Beucase they arent to hard to replace if you can get to the threaded part of them.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2009 14:10
|
|