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Blowjob Overtime posted:Gut-check question. Our pressure tank is located probably 30' of pipe away from where it enters the house. Definitely not expert experience here but I can't imagine why it'd be a problem.
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May 13, 2021 01:49
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brugroffil posted:Our pressure tank is located probably 30' of pipe away from where it enters the house. Definitely not expert experience here but I can't imagine why it'd be a problem. Thanks. After eight years I should know better than to assume the PO had any understanding or intentionality to what he did to that basement, especially after seeing the actual behind-the-scenes once we got the drywall down.
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May 13, 2021 14:58
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Our licensed plumber installed hot and cold lines opposite where they should have been going, with cold on the left and hot on the right. Found out after trying to install thermostatic mixing valve that wasn't working right and looking through old pictures, so wall is already closed up and tiled with shower installed  Now time to tell the plumber what to do to fix this and I'm wondering what we need to be aware of. I see a couple options: 1). Tell plumber to pull everything out and fix everything, that's what the insurance/bond is for, right? Probably be a fight and we go without a bathroom a lot longer with this route but it's for sure right. 2). Are there ways to reverse a thermostatic valve? Or would it be a specialty item? Assuming we can find one we could buy that instead and make the plumber pay for it. 3) first floor is still open so lines feeding into the shower below the floor are still accessible. Contractor can swap the lines feeding from below so hot and cold are are on the correct side.  This leaves about a 4' run of uninsulated hot water line (the current cold water PEX) behind the wall, but keeps us on schedule and saves demo. How major an impact does this uninsulated section have? I think PEX insulates better than copper, and hot water should only be running through there when shower is turned on, correct? So I'm not heating that wall of the house 24/7? PageMaster fucked around with this message at 17:58 on May 17, 2021 |
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May 17, 2021 17:47
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Look up the instructions from the manufacturer. Usually it's taking off the handle and turning the valve stem 180, then reattaching. Or, depending on the model, shutting off water to pull the cartridge and rotate it 180. Not a big deal either way. At least for the moens I've done it on.
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May 17, 2021 18:29
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Swapping those below the floor would be perfectly fine - that uninsulated part isn't going to be a problem. (There is *zero* chance of you getting them to pay for tearing out the wall and starting again) This is why they make red and blue pex!
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May 17, 2021 19:41
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Thanks! Found the manual and no way to reverse, just said hot and cold lines must be on correct side, so we'll fix from the bottom. Fortunately every other fixture in the house was done correctly.
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May 18, 2021 00:44
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Our shower is backing up and draining slowly. The drain cover is not removable as far as I can tell: The holes are too small for a snake. The grate is too big for a plunger to seal. So as much as I hate it, I'm no stranger to opening up P-traps and taking black gunk out  . I went into the crawlspace and found that the trap is cemented together ABS, no threaded nuts, can't be opened without cutting pipe.How the hell do I unclog this drain?
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May 18, 2021 23:01
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Have you tried looping a bent coat hanger into the drain to lift it up? It sure looks like it should pop out. Might just be stuck from years of gunk.
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May 18, 2021 23:15
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The water line for my fridge is currently 1/2" copper that's just coming out of a hole in the drywall, and then comes out from the hole at and angle and the faucet connecter for the ice water line is literally right over the electrical outlet. I'd like to put in a recessed junction box so the water outlet is a bit more protected, but it looks like most of the junction boxes I'm finding are for PEX or sharkbite. Is there anything in particular I should be searching for? It would be great if it had a water hammer arrestor as well.
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May 18, 2021 23:15
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SpartanIvy posted:Have you tried looping a bent coat hanger into the drain to lift it up? It sure looks like it should pop out. Might just be stuck from years of gunk. It's this. That absolutely comes out. You just need to pull on it harder or get the right leverage.
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May 19, 2021 00:14
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Motronic posted:It's this. That absolutely comes out. You just need to pull on it harder or get the right leverage. A screwdriver inserted into one of the holes levererd over a block or second screwdriver has worked for me in the past.
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May 19, 2021 03:53
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I think this falls in the plumbing thread, but if I wanted to do a gas line pressure test for my house, would that be something I talk to the gas company for, or a licensed plumber?
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May 19, 2021 05:17
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PageMaster posted:I think this falls in the plumbing thread, but if I wanted to do a gas line pressure test for my house, would that be something I talk to the gas company for, or a licensed plumber? Yes to both. They should be able to do this. Depending on your gas company and situation it might be better to get someone who does gas plumbing. What exactly is your situation? Why do you need this? If you were my wife's 90 year old grandfather you would just walk around the house with a candle to figure it out. (Felix was awesome RIP)
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May 19, 2021 05:31
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Mostly peace of mind and genera distrust/paranoia. We're doing a new house renovation, and it looks like new gas line put in laundry room and kitchen line modified to be recessed in wall with no permits. No leaks found from either smell or bubble test at the two connections but I haven't seen the entire install behind the wall, and if I had the option of making sure with a pressure test vs. risk of bad DIY and blowing up I'd do the test. If there were any issues this would be the time to take care of it before cabinets and appliances all go in.
PageMaster fucked around with this message at 05:52 on May 19, 2021 |
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May 19, 2021 05:50
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PageMaster posted:Mostly peace of mind and genera distrust/paranoia. We're doing a new house renovation, and it looks like new gas line put in laundry room and kitchen line modified to be recessed in wall with no permits. No leaks found from either smell or bubble test at the two connections but I haven't seen the entire install behind the wall, and if I had the option of making sure with a pressure test vs. risk of bad DIY and blowing up I'd do the test. If there were any issues this would be the time to take care of it before cabinets and appliances all go in. If you are in an area with natural gas (I assume) you should have any number of plumbers with the equipment to do this. I my not-natural-gas piped area any one of the propane delivery companies can do the same as well as many of the plumbers. It's a really simple leakdown test that requires a several hundred dollar meter. Yout natural gas supplier should be able to suggest someone or the ight even offer this service.
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May 19, 2021 05:57
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Motronic posted:If you are in an area with natural gas (I assume) you should have any number of plumbers with the equipment to do this. I my not-natural-gas piped area any one of the propane delivery companies can do the same as well as many of the plumbers. It's a really simple leakdown test that requires a several hundred dollar meter. Thanks, it is natural gas; I'll give them a call first and see if they can help.
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May 19, 2021 06:03
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I would second the call to you Nat gas company, when we moved into our house I called and asked them and they did it for free, which was nice.
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May 19, 2021 14:50
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If you have wrenching skills you can buy a test adapter that threads onto a pipe, then you use a bike pump to pressurize it and watch it for hours to see if the pressure holds or not. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Winters...TG202/305046985 SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 15:37 on May 19, 2021 |
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May 19, 2021 15:35
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SpartanIvy posted:Have you tried looping a bent coat hanger into the drain to lift it up? It sure looks like it should pop out. Might just be stuck from years of gunk. You and others were correct. The cover came off with some more force. But this backup has defeated me, I tried a 1/4" snake, vinegar and baking soda, plunger, remarkably it has gotten even worse, maybe because I pushed it deeper or compacted it or something. I don't like chemicals but I'm trying max strength drain-o and the first treatment has done nothing  I'm worried about calling an "unclog any drain for $89" sort of service cause I've heard some of them try to bullshit you about how everything needs to be replaced, is this true or are they usually fine? If they're bad i will instead try to find a reputable plumber, who will probably charge more. e: lmao just after i typed that i heard a glurgle and the hot water suddenly drained down, hooray for horrible chemicals. I'll clean up some litter as penance. alnilam fucked around with this message at 20:18 on May 19, 2021 |
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May 19, 2021 20:13
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I am trying to connect my refrigerator water line, something that should have been done oh, a decade ago. Whatever. I already know I don't want to use a saddle valve, so I've got that going for me. I did buy a kit with hose, saddle valve, and a dual sided adaptor thing to connect the line from the fridge to the hose. The hose is 1/4 inch and the adaptor thing easily screws into the nut on the end of the line coming out the back of the fridge, so that's all well and good. Two issues: 1. When I put the nut on the hose, then put the little brass thing inside the end of the hose so it doesn't get squished (ferule?), and then put the little plastic collar thing and tighten the nut over the hose...I can just pull the hose right back out of the nut. This seems...wrong? I feel that I am following the diagram that came with it and even watched a video of someone else doing the same thing so, no idea why that is happening. 2. Planning to connect the supply line to a basement sink, but the opening there is too big. I would need a 5/8 outside diameter nut and the kit came with a 1/2. Is there a nut I can buy that I can put the 1/4 inch hose into, but will fit the supply line? (I tried searching for this but nothing that came up looked right).
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May 19, 2021 23:08
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The little brass bit is supposed to be squished, it's called a compression fitting. When you screw it in it will get squished and expand/distort so it's pressing against the nut and the 1/4 line, holding it in with friction. I'm not sure I understand the benefit of that over something like a braided metal hose with a nut and a rubber gasket to make the seal with the appliance. It's what I'm heading out to buy right now.
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May 19, 2021 23:58
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FISHMANPET posted:The little brass bit is supposed to be squished, it's called a compression fitting. When you screw it in it will get squished and expand/distort so it's pressing against the nut and the 1/4 line, holding it in with friction. Ahh, so it's not working because I'm just testing it to see if it's working without actually attaching it? I would do the braided cable but I do have to run it down through the wall and under the floor and I'd have to drill the holes bigger and buy way more cable.
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May 20, 2021 00:17
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Bob Shadycharacter posted:I am trying to connect my refrigerator water line, something that should have been done oh, a decade ago. Whatever. First off, use the vinyl tubing for as short a period of time as possible. Run 1/4" copper when you are able. The vinyl tubing likes to get brittle & crack when exposed to heat, much like that generated out of the back of a refrigerator. I have handled many, many floods caused by vinyl icemaker line. Put the vinyl tubing through the nut first. Then slide on the compression fitting. Then insert the ferrule, pull the compression fitting and the nut so they're over the center of the ferrule, insert the tube/ferrule into the male fitting on the refrigerator, slide up & thread on the nut, and tighten it down. When done right, the tube will stay put. Bob Shadycharacter posted:2. Planning to connect the supply line to a basement sink, but the opening there is too big. I would need a 5/8 outside diameter nut and the kit came with a 1/2. Is there a nut I can buy that I can put the 1/4 inch hose into, but will fit the supply line? (I tried searching for this but nothing that came up looked right). You can buy an adapter from a big box hardware store (it'll be in with all of the brass fittings) or repeat what you posted at a plumbing supply house & they'll sell you the right adapter, or combination of adapters.
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May 20, 2021 03:17
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Thank you FISHMANPET and PainterofCrap! I found the reducing adaptor thing and got everything hooked up and it's working without leaking!!! The ice is taking forever to fill up but it's definitely going.  I am thrilled.I will definitely plan to switch to copper tubing at some point soon, thank you for the heads up.
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May 21, 2021 00:00
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Bob Shadycharacter posted:Thank you FISHMANPET and PainterofCrap! I found the reducing adaptor thing and got everything hooked up and it's working without leaking!!! The ice is taking forever to fill up but it's definitely going. Yeah, I think I must have used vinyl tubing for my fridge and it sprung a leak in spots where it looks like it must have gotten pinched or something. Luckily it was out in the open and we noticed it immediately. Note to self that I'm going to just disconnect the fridge from the lines entirely before selling the house; the new owner can gently caress around with running a proper line I guess!
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May 21, 2021 02:30
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Sorry I know it's more of an appliance question but I couldn't find any thread that seemed better for it. I have a somewhat new kenmore dishwasher that started leaking from the drain pump after I removed it to look for a blockage (I ended up finding the circulation pump died and I replaced that, works good now). I replaced the drain pump and it worked well with no issues for a couple weeks and then today started leaking in the biggest possible way you could imagine - like all the seals had failed and water was coming out through the motor housing. It's one of these . What could cause something like this to happen? Where should I start looking? I'm waiting for the dishes inside the unit to dry so I can take the racks out and flip the fucker over and try to blow through the drain hose to see if maybe there's some kinda blockage either at the one-way valve or at the point it joins the sink drain, maybe the backpressure caused early seal failure? Thanks goons.
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May 21, 2021 05:09
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VelociBacon posted:Sorry I know it's more of an appliance question but I couldn't find any thread that seemed better for it. Just a followup, so I pulled the unit today and disconnected the drain pipe from the drain pump fitting. I blew through the hose and it felt like quite a bit of pressure initially but then I was able to clear it (???). I'm not sure if I was just blowing against the water in the built-in loop + the resistance of the check valve and was feeling that head pressure or if there was actually some blockage or partial blockage. I put everything back together and it doesn't seem to be leaking anymore, which is crazy because the degree to which that poo poo was leaking out of the pump housing a few days ago I'd have thought all the seals were shot. I'm running it through a 1hr test cycle now to see but either way I'll be throwing the new drain pump on and returning the one currently on the unit. Still open to any suggestions anyone might have.
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May 23, 2021 03:02
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Helping a buddy put a new sink it, the drain is way off from the old one. About 9 inches. What's the appropriate solution here that ideally isn't one of those flexible drain extensions? Or are those not as bad as I think? The one they have at the store is supposedly smooth on the inside, but I still feel like that's a hacky solution. (Old P trap shown for illustration, it's getting removed) 
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May 23, 2021 17:53
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opengl128 posted:Helping a buddy put a new sink it, the drain is way off from the old one. About 9 inches. What's the appropriate solution here that ideally isn't one of those flexible drain extensions? Or are those not as bad as I think? The one they have at the store is supposedly smooth on the inside, but I still feel like that's a hacky solution. You need 2 of 90 degree pieces and a length of straight pipe. You can also do 45's, but might be a bit tight
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May 23, 2021 18:16
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Nitrox posted:You need 2 of 90 degree pieces and a length of straight pipe. You can also do 45's, but might be a bit tight Make sure the horizontal run is also sloped. For inspiration, look at how double basin kitchen sinks are plumbed, and do half that.
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May 23, 2021 20:21
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I installed new fixtures in my shower probably 16 years ago. The rubber gaskets (seats?) in the handles lasted maybe 5-6 years, then got to the point where you'd have to turn the handles more and more to get the water to shut off. I went to the local hardware store and got one of those variety packs of gaskets ("Do It Best" brand) and replaced them. Since then, I've had to replace them every 18-24 months because they keep wearing out. Everything else I've purchased from Do It Best has been crap, so I'm assuming these gasket are also crap. Are there some better gaskets made of polyurethane that I can buy? I'm afraid I don't know the model of my fixture or even exactly what gasket I need. The variety pack comes with regular cylindrical ones (like a flat cheerio) and tapered ones. I've tried both (one type in each handle) and I can't see any any difference in performance or longevity. The original ones were worn out so bad when I replaced them the first time, it was impossible to tell what was originally in there. If I'm right that Do It Best variety pack gaskets/seats/seals are poo poo and there are better options you can recommend, I'll figure the rest out through trial and error. Thanks!
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May 26, 2021 03:49
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Go to a plumbing supply. Those gaskets are basically universal size, but it would help to bring one for reference. Also replace the seats
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May 26, 2021 03:53
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Nitrox posted:Go to a plumbing supply. Those gaskets are basically universal size, but it would help to bring one for reference. Also replace the seats I am not a plumber by any means, so my terminology might be confusing. What is the difference between a gasket and a seat? Is the gasket the rubber part and the seat the brass part? Its been a little over a year since I had them apart, so I can't remember what the internals look like, but I need to replace them again and I'd like to not have to do it again for a few years. How long are they supposed to last?
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May 26, 2021 04:11
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The seat is what gasket will push against. It's a wear part as well. Usually part of a rebuilt kit https://www.fdsupply.com/item/p021-0642/central-brass-boxed-kits/
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May 26, 2021 04:22
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Hi! I'm a perennial lurker whose bathroom is throwing up issues. The second floor bathroom in my rented duplex has been having a backup problem: when running the shower or tub, the water doesn't drain. When running the sink, the water backs up through the tub, carrying debris with it. The toilet is unaffected, and does not back up into the tub. I've called my super a few times, and he's gotten it cleared...for a couple of months, before the sink starts backing into the tub and the tub stops draining properly. I haven't checked the sink gooseneck yet; I'm reluctant to call the super again because the problem keeps coming back. I've tried snaking the tub, the snake can't make it past the ninety degree bend three-quarters of an inch below the drain. The modern, plastic tub replaced a clawfoot with more downspout, and whoever did the work didn't bother with adjusting the plumbing. Any advice is warmly welcomed. This is out of my wheelhouse by just enough that I'm about to hire a plumber--which I can do but don't necessarily want to do. (and I got this avatar when I didn't know that lowtax was a jerk; sorry, I don't post often and forgot that it needs changin'.)
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May 26, 2021 08:25
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this is call the landlord issues.. if the sink / tub are backing up into each-other the problem is most likely behind the wall after the 2 meet. The sink is Higher than the shower drain so water will back-up out of the lowest drain.
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May 26, 2021 11:18
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Definitely requires opening up a wall or ceiling (below the bath) or the floor of the bath. Possibly both. The sink and shower drainage join the stack by the toilet at an "ideal bend," a 4" waste line with a couple of smaller openings cast into it...or the smaller lines from the sink & tub may join up a little ahead of it. Either way, there's an obstruction somewhere in the line before it reaches the stack/ideal bend, well past the traps for the toilet and sink.
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May 26, 2021 15:08
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In our new house, after a few weeks of living here, we found the upstairs master bathroom vanity sinks slowly fill with water. I've been bilging them and dumping them, and drano-ing them, and plunging them, but to no avail. Tonight I decided to disassemble them to see if there was an obvious clog, and found a weird pipe: In my drain bucket, I also found these little metal shaving thingies:  The pipe coming from the wall is the culprit. It elbows down to join up with the normal J-pipe (missing the J part in the above photo). Isolating it, it'll drip sometimes, flow a stream sometimes, or just sit idle. There's nothing above it, nor below drain wise. I've tried flushing toilets, running the dishwasher, clothes washer, etc to see if anything causes it, but so far nothing. I checked the drip pans for the AC units, and they're bone dry. We did have some foundation repair work done, and my wife thinks that a drain pipe along the outside wall where the work was done may be pinched and water is backing up, but I'm not so sure. I'm at a loss as to what this pipe could be, and why it's filling up our sinks.
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May 28, 2021 04:43
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raej posted:In our new house, after a few weeks of living here, we found the upstairs master bathroom vanity sinks slowly fill with water. I've been bilging them and dumping them, and drano-ing them, and plunging them, but to no avail. Tonight I decided to disassemble them to see if there was an obvious clog, and found a weird pipe: You said the AC drip pan was dry, but is that the condensate line for the A/C? If an AC is draining properly the drip pan should never have water in it. It could also be a separate line for a whole house dehumidifier if you have one installed, but those are pretty uncommon since an AC does a pretty good job of it normally. e: I have no idea what those flecks are in the water, but that's a little concerning, whatever it's from.
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May 28, 2021 04:49
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See if they come back in a week. Also stop using drano. Next time it slows down do what you just did and it will be solved immediately. If you have more metal flakes then  figure out what's upstream and grinding itself to flakes.
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May 28, 2021 05:55
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