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eBay has parts for literally everything. Either NOS or someone with a machine shop in their garage turning them out by hand. Nothing is truly ever unavailable anymore thanks to the internet.
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Jun 21, 2018 05:22
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Do you have an example of the handle to take a picture of? Is there another one in the house somewhere?
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Jun 21, 2018 16:13
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Also it's impossible to match the valve with just that picture. The actual valve is behind the cover you've taken a picture of. It may only be visible after tearing into the wall. I ask to see the handle because it might give a clue on who made the valve or what type it is.
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Jun 21, 2018 16:17
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kid sinister posted:What are you talking about??? He can just turn off the water, take the other stem out and match it. Well, he might have to get the opposite threaded one if the handles turn different directions to close. Some hot and cold valves are like that. You're probably right. I'm imagining the whole valve needs to be replaced.
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Jun 21, 2018 18:28
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Im getting quotes to install a new water heater and the first plumber I've had come out gave me a $2,228 quote for the job of just installing the new water heater. The poo poo he line itemed is ridiculous and I hope nobody falls for that poo poo. $150 for a gas sediment trap install, which is literally a piece of pipe it already has, just removed and reinstalled I guess??
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Jun 25, 2018 14:16
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Second plumber came out and told me $1,800.  Here's hoping that the two I'm getting quotes from tomorrow are more reasonable. This is just a normal gas water heater, not tankless.
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Jun 25, 2018 21:08
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Does not include the new unit, or removal of old unit, which is already done. I live in an older area thats near an affluent area but definitely is not. Those charges are for: -replacing 20" of gas pipe against the side wall of the closet. Exposed and easy to get to. -running a 10"x6" vent down the other side of the wall. The proper sized hole is already in the ceiling to the attic, it just needs the vent to be run. I did this once and didn't know how to properly join the vent sections together so I removed my poo poo. If I had drive cleats it would be like a half hour fix. -running a pressure relief drain line to the exterior of the house. I have crawlspace access and it's fairly roomy down there, so it would be easy. You just follow the existing pan drain line. It's a straightshot. I thought i could get away with running the relief pipe to the pan but that's only up to code for slab foundations I am now aware. -attaching hoses from wall to water heater -attaching b-type vent from ceiling to water heater. From ceiling to roof is already b-type Other things: -so far no one has mentioned installing an expansion tank which I think is required now, but maybe not, it's still a good idea -im working on sealing the door to the closet myself, so that bit isn't even included in the cost -i already installed an electrical outlet in the closet as well SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 21:45 on Jun 25, 2018 |
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Jun 25, 2018 21:41
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I've been working on it myself but with a 9-5 job and all I've only been able to tackle it a few hours at a time on the weekends in addition to other house stuff and I'm now out of time and need to move in. A lot of that time was undoing wrong poo poo from the last water heater install back in 2011. There's still some real shoddy work in the crawlspace but I'll worry about fixing that headache if/when it breaks. Just had a contractor through home Depot come out and quote me $800. I've got one more guy coming out for a quote but I doubt they'll beat home Depot guys price. I realize home Depot guys quality might be lacking but he can do it to code and I can spit shine any rough edges he leaves behind. He mentioned running the pressure relief line to the crawlspace which is a super bad idea, but I'll let it sit for a few weeks until I have time to run copper out the back of the house. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Jun 26, 2018 |
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Jun 26, 2018 18:49
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kid sinister posted:Just for the record, do you look like a total rube? I don't think so? I'm a short guy who looks a lot younger than he is and I'm dressed in business casual so maybe they assume I'm an early twenty something kid with Mommy and Daddy money to throw around. tyler posted:I bet you just stand there and watch people work don’t you Only with strippers. If I had time to watch I'd just continue doing it myself  E: if anyone knows where I should search locally to find drive cleats for ducting, I would appreciate it. I've called one HVAC supply store already and the guy hadn't heard of it. All I've found at home Depot/Lowe's are S cleats. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Jun 26, 2018 |
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Jun 26, 2018 21:11
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Update on water heater saga: I agreed to pay home Depot to install it just to get it done quickly. Well the guy that came out thought it was for an initial quote. He called the home office and they couldn't find the guy I originally talked to or had scheduled since I had the original quote but he didn't put his name on it. The new guy said he wouldnt have taken the job because of the fact that I had a galvanized water supply pipe, and if he had he would have quoted me twice as much! Eventually the office figured out who I originally dealt with and they're going to send him out tomorrow morning. So I get to go another day without hot water! The new guy did compliment the work I had done myseld though and said I should just finish it myself, but then backpedaled and mentioned the Home Depot warranty, and other benefits of them doing it, especially at the quoted price. Also no luck finding square vent drive cleats. Talked to a second HVAC and Plumbing supplier that had never heard of them. I should "just use foil tape like everyone else". I'm beginning to seriously question the HVAC integrity of my area. So in the end I'm using S cleats and foil tape and it's working fine. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Jun 29, 2018 |
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Jun 29, 2018 18:32
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I now have a working water heater! That's the good news. Bad news is this is the plumbing that ~$650 for 3 hours of work gets you. I raised questions about the black pipe and galvanized to brass connection when I saw it and was brushed off. I'll point it out the inspector when they come and see what they think.  E: turns out brass is fine to connect to zinc and copper, you just can't connect galvanized pipe straight to copper I guess.
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Jun 30, 2018 20:03
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Turd Herder posted:Thought you said it was a standard water heater. It looks like it's a power vent water heater. Which would explain why the price was higher. Why would a power vent matter? The only difference is that it needs b-vent instead of being able to use single wall within the closet. I already had b vent run to the exterior of the house. Which also if you look at the picture, you'll see isn't properly slid together and he ran screws into, which you don't do on b-vent. Also the way he did the gas can't be code compliant either. GG Home Depot. I'm calling them to get him or someone else to come out here and fix it. 
SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 15:03 on Jul 1, 2018 |
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Jul 1, 2018 14:57
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The lowest bid of $200+/hr, for some pretty loving simple work with easy access. I didn't cheap out and hire some back alley "plumber" or something. This guy is supposed to be a trained and licensed professional. It was through Home Depot, so they'll make it right, I just have to bitch enough.
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Jul 2, 2018 16:18
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devicenull posted:Did that pass inspection? I thought the gas would need a drip leg? Inspection is scheduled for next week. There is no way it should pass inspection.
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Jul 3, 2018 01:46
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GWBBQ posted:I feel so much better about installing my own furnace right now. For real. A different plumber is coming out tomorrow afternoon to fix it. I'll update this thread with how that goes. I've also got a good set of plumbing channel locks coming in the mail so I can fix it myself in case he fucks up too 
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Jul 6, 2018 03:43
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Is the bottom white part iron? It all looks like PVC to me, and it also looks like it's reducing in size from the black to the white section, which is where I would expect the issue to come from. Wastewater from the sink is probably backing up there as the water tries to compact down into the new pipe size, and it's giving it time/pressure to leak out the the threads.
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Jul 24, 2018 01:55
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Clearly he needs a dieplastic union. Those dissimilar plastics are corroding.
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Jul 24, 2018 02:16
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You could always pick up one of those $20 USB endoscopes, fees it down the pipes through a drain line and see if you can find anything wrong yourself. They're waterproof so you could even leave it in and then plug it into your phone next time it floods to May find exactly where the problem is.
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Jul 25, 2018 18:14
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Bad Munki posted:Worst live stream ever It's my first Let's Plumb 
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Jul 25, 2018 19:30
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I installed a new bathroom sink and it not only looks better and solves the issues I had with the old one, it also didn't spawn any more house projects. Truly a homeownership first for me.
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Aug 10, 2018 02:18
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I finished replacing my entire 3 knob setup a month ago so I am basically an expert at everything related to this. The dripping you're seeing is from one or both of the valves not sealing properly. If the water is hot, it's your hot water valve (most likely as the hot water destroys washers faster), otherwise it's your cold valve, or both. Also, if the tub spout puts out water while your shower is going, your diverter valve seal is also bad. Basically everything was bad in mine, maybe not yours though. When I'm back home later I'll write up a guide on how to disassemble it, figure out what you need, and replace the necessary parts.
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Aug 25, 2018 19:23
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Medullah posted:Yeah I was watching videos that were showing how to figure out what needed replaced and I figured since it was ancient anyways I might as well just replace everything. Would definitely like to hear what you had to do. That was my thinking as well. I could have technically gotten away with only replacing one washer, but I replaced all 3 stems, and my tub spout. I also have plans to replace the drain, but that's a lot more involved and will wait. Before you start, make sure you have an adjustable wrench of some sort. I used a crescent wrench for most of it, but by the end I had to buy a bigger set of pliers and they were totally worth it. The extra leverage and grip is always helpful. So with that said, I would start by taking the knobs and escutcheon of one of the valves off and see what kind of setup you have. If you're lucky, the valve/nut protrudes from the wall that you can use a regular crescent wrench to remove it. If you're not lucky, you'll need a set of shower wrenches to reach into the wall and undo the valve stem. For mine, I did not need shower wrenches, but from the youtubes I've seen they are fairly straight forward to use. When removing a stem MAKE SURE YOUR WATER IS TURNED OFF. ESPECIALLY THE HOT WATER. Also, the valve needs to be turned so that it's all the way open when you both remove, and reinstall the valve stems. That means the hot water valve should be turned all the way counter clockwise, and the cold should be turned all the way clockwise. This also makes you aware if you did not turn your water off, like you need to. Make sure your water supply is turned off! Once you can get a valve out you should be able to google search and figure out what kind it is. Look through the Danco product offerings, as they seem to make reproductions of basically every old type of valve stem. There are other brands but I suspect they all come out of the same factory in China or wherever. I bought a Danco valve, and then ended up buying an entire set of some other brand and they were identical (but the set was a much better value!). Post pictures here and I might be able to help you out. It looks like your knobs are one of the styles of American Standard, which is what my setup was, so I am especially familiar with those. Also, with the valve out, peak into the valve opening in the wall and see if the seats for the valves are square or hexagonal. You use the same tool for both but it's still good to know and could help identify the right parts you need. You will need to pick up this tool or one like it if you plan on replacing the seats. Finally, the diverter stem is different than the hot/cold stems, and for that matter the hot and cold stems are different from each other. They each rotate in different directions, so make sure you order the right ones and that you install them on the correct side! I wouldn't bother with trying to remove the diverter stem at this point in time, but just be aware of it in the future. If your valve stem is stuck, like my diverter stem was, the trick I came up with to get it out was to use a set of locking pliers, grab the knob stem with them so they're perpendicular to it, and then put a wooden dowel, or screwdriver handle behind the pliers and gently tap the handle end of the pliers with a hammer so that you get some leverage action on the stem. Some dumb rear end had slathered plumbers putty on my diverter stem so I had to use that method for 30 minutes and slowly work it out millimeter by millimeter, but it worked. Another helpful tool, especially for getting smooth escutcheons off, is a strap wrench. That way you don't risk marring the surface with your pliers. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Aug 26, 2018 |
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Aug 26, 2018 02:45
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You'll need a shower wrench set. They're basically giant sockets that will let you unscrew those stems. I tried matching what's visible to stems on Home Depot and it looks like it might be an American Standard model, but I can't find an exact match with what I can see. The spout isn't at fault for the dripping. It's either your hot or cold water stems letting water through. If your spout drips/flows while the shower is selected, your diverter stem is the issue for that problem.
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Aug 31, 2018 22:11
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My trick was to get lever action on mine. Get some locking pliers and clamp that poo poo down on the valve close to the base. Then stick a crescent wrench under it so that each jaw is on part of the locked pliers, then stick a wood dowel or screwdriver handle between the crescent wrench and the wall. Make sure it's close to the valve to maximize leverage on the crescent wrench. Then use the crescent wrench to lever it out. You may need to use a hammer and gently tap it out a millimeter at a time like I did. Mine hadn't been removed since at least the 80s and had plumbers putty inside it so I think my experience was a worst case scenario. From what I've seen on YouTube, once you break the friction they usually come right out. E: this method will Chew up your valve stem.
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Sep 24, 2018 23:31
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Looks like a waste line to me. It's relatively small diameter, so maybe it went to a sink originally.
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Oct 11, 2018 23:58
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That's loving bizarre but maybe it's the hot water valve stem of the shower? Not sure what kind of defect would cause pulsing like that but it seems like a likely culprit.
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Oct 19, 2018 01:39
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If they're fullsize roaches, it makes me think they're coming up from the sewer line which is terrifying. If you have a crawlspace under your house I would get your rear end down there and see what the situation looks like around your tubs plumbing. If it was me, and there's no evidence of roach activity outside of the drain pipes in the crawlspace. I would spray some contact poison into the overflow. After that I would fill the tub with the hottest loving water my heater puts out, and let it fill up to the overflow intake and let it flow into it. Then I would pull the plug and let all that scalding water destroy anything living in the pipes, and hopefully flush whatever is in the pipes that they're eating and is drawing them up from the street. After that I would dump more poison in the overflow and down the main drain and let it sit overnight. I don't know that that would work but that's what I would do to start out with. If the problem continues I don't know what to do other than call a plumbing company to scope my pipes and see what the gently caress is going on down there.
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Nov 2, 2018 05:05
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I have found the one DIY activity I am apparently not good at, and it is plumbing. Tonight I was redoing the piping from my water heater to my shower valve, and the PEX part went easily enough, uponor is easy as hell to work with. However, the connection to the valve goes 1/2" uponor pipe-> 1/2" threaded fitting->threaded part of union-> top part of union that is mated to it. I ordered a new union piece and used 3 layers of teflon on the 1/2" uponor fitting before cranking it down as hard as I could onto the union piece. Then I connected everything and of course it had a very slow drip that I am 95% certain is from the threads between the fitting and the union bottom piece. I've tried tightening it more, and undoing, re-tefloning, and retightening it 3 or 4 different times now, each time with similar or worse results. So my question is, what can I do? At this point I'm ready to call the plumber out that redid my cold plumbing. He was able to reuse the old parts and get the pex to connect to that just fine somehow, so he could presumably do it again. I'm just afraid it's going to cost a butt load for literally twisting two pieces together. I just don't understand why connecting two threaded fittings is so loving hard.
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Nov 7, 2018 07:01
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I'm fairly certain I haven't cracked anything but I have shaved some brass off. Not off of threaded or unioning surfaces though! I am also using all new parts where possible. The one part I can't reasonably replace is the shower valve itself, but I'm fairly certain that tapered union connection is working fine, and that it's the thread that's the issue. I'll pick up some pipe dope today and give it another try or two before admitting defeat. I also noticed that whatever tape the plumber used on the cold side is blue, where as my Teflon is white. It also appears to be thicker stuff. Anyone know what product that is?
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Nov 7, 2018 15:32
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Ran into a plumber today at the supply store I was buying my parts at and he reiterated the tape+dope method you all suggested so hopefully tonight I will have some success with it. The shop was also out of 3/4" to 1/2" reducers so I'm going to have to slightly redo some of my pex to use a 3/4x1/2x1/2 tee 
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Nov 7, 2018 20:17
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Thanks for everyone's help. I got it all sealed up now. Better Tape+Dope was the key. I actually had to cut off the entire assembly from the PEX and use my other set of parts because I tightened it down so hard last night I couldn't get them apart and more or less destroyed the things trying. Luckily when I order parts I always order a couple extras for when I gently caress it up! Here's the final product. The red side was my doing.  Still need to insulate and strap it up in the crawlspace.
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Nov 8, 2018 04:20
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That's actually not mold but cricket poop, or mouse poop. I originally thought mouse because the house did have a prior rodent infestation but I found online where someone pointed out identical spots in their crawlspace caused by crickets. Regardless I will be hitting it with bleach, but I don't think it's going to be getting any worse on it's own.
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Nov 8, 2018 05:32
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Why not just attach the copper line to the fridge?
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Nov 13, 2018 00:57
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They were not willing, not necessarily not able. Cutting copper is easy and takes only like a $5 tool.
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Nov 13, 2018 01:45
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Try turning off the water heater, using water, then monitoring it to see if it continues to creep up without the water heater firing up. It sounds like it's thermal expansion and that your expansion tank is pressurized too much, or somehow otherwise not working like it should. Your test is flawed in that even if you only use cold water, the hot water lines are still able to relieve pressure by back flowing hot water from the tank up into your cold water lines. It's not enough to make it to any faucet though which is why you don't notice it.
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Jan 20, 2019 01:39
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My 1950 house has a main water shut-off on an outside wall of the house near the street shutoff, but it was buried under 2 feet of dirt and rusted shut. Yours is probably in a similar condition assuming it exists. I had a new valve installed when the plumbing was replaced so now I can turn it off at the house but prior to that I had to turn it off at the street and it wasn't too bad.
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Jan 22, 2019 19:11
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Depends on what the condition of your pipes are and how hard they are to get to, but I would imagine pretty expensive. My plumber did it as part of an almost whole house replumb which was over three grand
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Jan 22, 2019 22:37
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Makes sense to me but I'd be concerned on the condition of the threads of the pipe if it's ancient. That was a very real concern for me because my old pipes (1950 galvanized steel) had become paper thin in places. Luckily the main water pipe looked good, but if it had broken when trying to unthread the old pipes/valves, I would have had to paid for a new pipe from the meter on the street to the house which I think I was quoted as being another thousand with digging and such. So I guess what I'm saying is it just all depends, and you'll need to get a real plumber in there to check it out. E: I've also discovered that it's a much better deal to bundle everything you want done into one list and get it all done at once. So if you want any other plumbing work done, get it all quoted together. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Jan 22, 2019 |
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Jan 22, 2019 22:51
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I preemptively replaced this....mess when I moved in. Don't have a reducing tee? Just make one! And use ALL of your solder!
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Jan 26, 2019 01:53
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Isn't that just a standard toilet tank hose? That looks to be about the diameters of mine. One of these guys: https://www.amazon.com/Fluidmaster-...rds=toilet+hose
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Jan 29, 2019 05:30
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