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YAY, a plumbing thread.. First let me say I loving HATE PLUMBING enough that I thought about becoming one at one point. (Getting paid with a stocked truck, is better than paying, and running to HD / Lowes 5 times to fix a leak) My house is from early 1900's with a bathroom I've seen a lot of talk about venting.. I have no such pipes in my house (Although the longest drain run to the main stack is maybe 40 ft.. Stack is in bathroom, Kitchen is 10-15 ft away, and utility sink / washer/dryer is 20-30 ft away. (there is a vent in there I believe), I'll see it when I clean my Gutters. This house is why I hate plumbing... Horror #1: Changing kitchen faucet: The old faucet had long supply lines so they tied it right into the copper.. but, the guy doing it.. didn't have the right fitting I guess. they went copper->brass-> copper. I finally just cut the soldered on brass and soldered on a new fitting. Soldering up with a pipe full of water is fun. Plus whoever built / plumbed the addition with the kitchen/bath isn't a firm believer in shutoff valves. Horror #2: Elbow of Freeze When they put in the gas line they knocked a hole in cinder-block wall into the crawl space (most of the house has no crawl below it). When it's 18* out all that cold air flowing under the house has 1 escape (The hole) and blows on a 90* elbow. Why not just leave the pipe bare. I also don't like torching it in the winter.. gas line runs right next to it. I'm going under today to put some insulation and heat tape on it. #3: Rock and Roll Toilet Why does the flange have to be the right height? lets make it a little higher. (This will be fixed when I replace the cast iron pipe / rusty flange when I redo my floor) tater_salad fucked around with this message at 14:50 on Nov 6, 2011 |
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Nov 6, 2011 14:43
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#1 the pain was i spent the day trying to find the right fitting, couldn't find anything #2 this is under the house not in the house, it kills me that when they made the hole they never tried to close it. Great stuff and some heat tape should keep me from having to crawl under the house in Feb with a space heater. #3 when my main drain got a ball of root it was changed to mostly pvc I just need to do the rest of it but want to wait because I may want to move it over
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Nov 6, 2011 20:51
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2. Yeah I'm wrapping too, insulation is in the garage, just can't find my gloves. I never thought about shoving some insulation in the hole ill see how small of a piece I can get? I don't need a whole roll for a 4"x6" hole. 3. It don't think it follows that now, I want to move it a little more "away " it's too close to the wall / sink right now.
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Nov 7, 2011 02:25
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Lately my laundry room has a slight odor of lingering farts when I do laundry. It's not overpowering but I can always smell it. It is only when doing laundry, no other time The laundry room is an addition that drains across to the other side of the house. (probably a 30 foot run). There is a vent stack coming out of the he roof in 2 spots, in the corner of the room and where all the drains run to. I can't get directly under the room as I have no basement and those that built it hate Jesus and America and baseball. Are my clothes that dirty? machine have crappy smelling water coming from it? Any good way to see if the vent is clogged? If it was a vent problem wouldn't it smell all the time?
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Nov 29, 2011 05:14
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Does the water itself stink? Are you on well water? Does hot or cold water just smell? As far as I can tell none of the other drains are like this.. Is it possible that there's "something awful" stuck in the trap, that smells like farty farts when wet? (Now that I think of it this may be an answer.... I had this place rented for about a year because I wasn't going to be around.. when I came back the utility tub was full of mud that I had to clean out)
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Nov 29, 2011 13:18
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It does run into the sink, but the faucet on the sink is shot, it's on my list to replace. I should be able to run some water by turning opening the shutoffs for the faucet. I thought of that last night but was in bed, didn't want to crawl downstairs and fuvk around at midnight. OK a quick google says that it's probably the front loader, guess it's time to do a beach only wash. Apparently they don't drain 100% and can mildew up on the inside then fart up the room tater_salad fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Nov 29, 2011 |
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Nov 29, 2011 16:02
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I am going to need to make the washer a little off level in favor of the door so it stays open and that will help. As the door swings closed on its own right now. And it is against a wall so it can't open past 90° My clothes don't smell after a wash, just the water on the way out. So I guess a bleach through and keeping the door open will help so I don't need to open a window when I do laundry.
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Nov 29, 2011 21:11
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pseudonordic posted:I've got a leaking toilet that I plan to take apart over Christmas break to find the leak. I'm not getting in over my head am I? Around base? From tank bolt? From supply line? From the tank into bowl (running when not flushed) Toilets aren't too hard, if you know what part is broken, just don't over tighten anything that is in contact with the porcelain, you don't need to be super gentle but don't go gorilla on it
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Nov 29, 2011 23:01
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grover posted:People often worry about working on toilets, but they're actually not bad at all. If you take the toilet base off the flange, you'll need a new wax ring; they're really cheap, so picking up one of each size in advance may save you a trip to the big box (you can return the others later) if you needed a thicker or thinner one. Make sure to shim the bowl when you're done, or you risk it rocking and cracking later. If you can take what you need apart then go to the box store, the fun killer can be driving back and forth 4 times.
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Nov 29, 2011 23:37
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quaint bucket posted:I never shimmed the bowl when I'm setting it down on the wax and tightening the bolts on the bottom and never had an adverse effect after multiple toilet pulls/replacement. Sounds like leaking tank bolts, take the tank off.. And bring the screws and rubber to lowes, you should have 2 or 3 depending on brand. You will also want to replace the tank to bowl gasket (and nut too if you have one), it's worth the $5 to not have to go to the store again after you put everything together and it's still leaking
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Nov 30, 2011 03:28
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Question Time : I have gurgling that has just started to happen right when my washer drains (runs about 15' to the main drain) My toilet also acts odd when the shower is running. Will fill and drain with what I believe is clean water. No drains are slow, everything seems to be draining fine (hard to be 100%! Because I don't have a cleanout close to the source I'm wondering if it's my vent or if it's time to call the plumber to run the big power auger through the main drain.
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Dec 30, 2011 16:24
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Toilet runs fine, fills and flushes fine. Only time there's been an issue is when the tub drained after my sons bath / my wife takes a 40 min shower. Then I may need to wait till they are out for it to flush right. (per my wife, I haven't experienced this first hand) It's definitely gurgling, it hasn't before and it's the kitchen sink that is doing it, not the wash tub the washer drains into. Also What's a good drain cleaner that won't kill my 1 galvanized pipe?
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Dec 30, 2011 18:46
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Where is it leaking tank to bowl or outside of the toilet? If it is tank to bowl check the float adjustment it may be too high and dribbling water then refilling
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Dec 31, 2011 00:28
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Ok I think that I have my answer to my issues and am looking for confirmation? I looked at my cleanout near the sewer and it's quite full of water, flushing makes the water in the vertical cleanout rise and fall while draining. So I looked at my other peephole for my sump that runs on the other side of the house and same thing, the water level is like 18" from ground level. I looked a the storm drain at the corner of my property and same thing. Is my towns sewer currently full of water because it's super wet around here? Should I call them and tell them to take care of it? Do I just wait For this poo poo weather to stop? Should I still have the plumbers next door come and run the rooter from cleanout to sewer?
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Dec 31, 2011 20:09
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Kung Fu Jesus posted:So my toilet decided to clog up pretty much 100%. After trying an auger, chemicals, and a plunger, I took off the toilet. Turns out my pipe is completely sealed with roots. I need some ideas of how to clear this out as cheap as possible, the environment be damned. If I do end up neededing a plumber, what ballpark figure should I expect to pay? Crawl space? roots where? I had this happen to me under the crawl space so I dug to the pipe my self (that was fun) then the plumbers connected the old clay to the new plastic waste line. Cost like $300. If they have to get the backhoe it won't be cheap
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Jan 15, 2012 00:09
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:He is right, it wont be cheap if you have them dig up the yard. You can try renting a snake with a cutting blade but it will have to be done yearly to fix the problem. Speaking of snaking yearly, I need to do this because I have 3 trees between my house and the city line. Is this something I can do myself? I've always paid the plumbers to do it because I don't want to kill my clay pipe? I also don't have the experience to know what to feel for. Any tips for doing it myself?
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Jan 15, 2012 13:45
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Instead of doing it yearly just replace it with abs pipe. That requires a backhoe and I don't plan on staying at this house forever, so at $135 a year it isn't worth it.
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Jan 15, 2012 20:00
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Okay.. Looking for some insight about a unique situation I have here. The facts: I have no curbs I live next door to plumbers They Park their F2/350's etc in front of my house 5 days a week because they don't have parking in front of their building for their employees They were here in Late December / early January for slow drains and ran an auger down my main sewer pipe. They were here 3 weeks ago and ran an auger down my main sewer pipe.\ They keep saying it's roots.. My drain is slow again from clean-out to street It can't possibly be roots again they were here 3-4 weeks ago. So I did some investigating.. there is a puddle (that really has been constant) right where they park every day.It is surely drain water coming from my house (I emptied the puddle out.. we did the showering etc that we could without overloading the system... and it's a puddle again). And it hasn't rained for over a week. This leads me to believe that my pipe is collapsed / separated. The question is.. Think I can get them to replace / fix that section that they park over..since it's their employees that don't know the difference between asphalt and dirt / mud. Think they'll believe that they are partially liable, or will they say that it's too deep and they didn't cause it. Plus they've run the rooter 2x down pipe that isn't complete. (if they don't want to play ball I'll be doing everything I can do to get a no parking from here to corner in front of my home with the reasoning of visibility from pulling out of my driveway (Their trucks are hard to see past).. And that they could possibly be causing maintenance issues. Is this the city's problem if it's so close to the road Under "their" part of my property.. with their tree. (The part between the sidewalk and street)?
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Apr 8, 2012 16:42
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I am going to have a cam done of my drain, I'm tired of paying 135 every 6weeks to throw a bandage on a bigger issue. I'll see if the neighbors can give me a discount on running the cam because they have run the rooter down it twice. The problem is with the plumbers is its not the same truck in the Same spot every day, but we'll see if they feel like being nice or not once the issue is figured out
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Apr 8, 2012 20:44
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Welp, they ran the camera and, the city sewer is clogged with roots. The bad news is... It's the storm sewer. Now I get to meet with the town to see if they will clean it out, or if they will make me run it to the sanitary. Edit, city's fixing it, wife was home and the plumbers talked to her, but $0 out of my pocket hooray tater_salad fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Apr 9, 2012 |
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Apr 9, 2012 15:18
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Disclaimer, I am not a plumber. You should be able to grab another sleeve and re connect it. I would also support the pipe so that it isn't stressing the rubber connector. That quote seems like it is to replace the cast iron with pvc, not just put the connection back in place.
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Apr 9, 2012 20:26
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Call someone else, those prices seem even beyond roto rooter crazy.. How long is the run of pipe?
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Apr 9, 2012 21:47
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internet inc posted:Cross post from the Fix it Fast thread (thanks to the kind goon who directed me here):
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May 9, 2012 21:13
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Basin wrenches are the loving bomb. I picked one up a year ago and I wonder how I lived without it. If you do work on your own plumbing go out and get one now.
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May 24, 2012 01:53
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Nevermind a bottle of draino down the vent worked.
tater_salad fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Feb 4, 2013 |
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Feb 3, 2013 19:18
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If you can id recommend a whole house shutoff while you have the water off at the curb, God help you if you get a leak where it's not after a shutoff on sat evening and it takes the water company 3hrs to respond.
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Apr 24, 2013 04:40
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Grem posted:Who wants to take a guess at how hosed my house is? Apparently there's a leak in my house, somewhere... Is the floor directly on a concrete pad or do you have a crawl space or basement?
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May 8, 2013 02:26
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I am not a plumber. I am pretty sure you can ditch witch pex to get water there. I watched a guy run one for a lawn sprinkler system. I'm just not sure how deep it needs to be buried.
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May 20, 2013 16:50
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My mother in law currently has a leaky outside spigot (Silcock?) that her fiance swears is sweated on and can't get unscrewed. I"ts my experience that most of them get twisted on to a threaded end. Should we give it a shot with 2 pipe wrenches? Is there anywhere that sells rebuild kits so I can replace the seals inside the thing instead of having to cut and sweat? How terrible would it be to run a sharkbite connection for this? (the copper pipe runs pretty close to the wood floor and I really don't feel comfortable using my novice sweating skills on it.. if I need to what are some tips? stick some metal up there and maybe a wet towel between the floor and metal to protect the wood from my terrible pipe fitting skills.
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Jun 3, 2013 03:26
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:In my experience they are a pain in the rear end to rebuild. A new one is only $25 or so. They may be soldered on but its a tough call . Even though the woods close to it here must be another place that you can cut it at to solder in an open area. care to send a picture of the hosebib where it may be soldered. And a larger picture of the area you would be working in. I wont be over there till the day I'm working on it. I'll have to see if I am lucky enough for it to run down the back wall but I think it runs from one side of the basement to the other up in the rafters.
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Jun 5, 2013 02:54
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That's still a lot to connect a hose Imo
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Jun 5, 2013 20:27
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So I was at my MIL's today for fathers day and snapped some pics.. due to some complications I haven't had a chance to go over there and fix the leaky outdoor spigot..  This was the best cell cam pic I could take.. The flashlight is shining where the copper exits the house to the outside.. I tried turning with a wrench after removign the nail and the siding and it felt like I was The pipe splits behind where the ground clip/green white twine is one line goes outside.. one line goes to the kitchen sink. It's about 1-2 inches away from the black/silver wire, and about 2-3 inches away from the yellow wires. There is MAYBE 6 inches between the elbow where it turns towards the back wall and the wall. The shutoff in the picture does not work, I've tried tightening the nut and it's all she's got. Any tips on sweating in that area.. or the question still remains.. should I sharkbite it.. The issue I have is.. I dont know how well I"ll be able to turn a wrench to tighten it. I'm not very comfortable with my sweating skills to do it that close to multiple melty things (wires) and burny things. (Wooden floor joists and back of the house) The only other thing I can think of is to add fittings that would allow me to pre-make some sections and then add a few male/female ends and screw everything together. but as I understand copper female fittings aren't "Free floating" so I can't put a female end on without having to turn the whole section.
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Jun 17, 2013 03:34
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Drain lines aren't very awesome at being water tight when water chills in them. If it wasn't backed up you'd probably not have a leak. Drain lines like the ones under your sink are usually just one pipe inside another with a plastic seal tightened around it when the junction is screwed tight. When water does what it should and flows by to the main drain line this provides enough protection from leaks. When it sits in the pipe it has a chance to get between where the two pipes are hanging out together, and the plastic seal. And start dripping. If you look at your main drain lines if they're PVC they're glued together, if metal they screwed tight You shouldn't need putty at the connection at all to keep water from coming out of a drain. Edit : I am not a plumber. If I were you I'd buy new pieces of drain pipe for where it's leaking just to make sure you have the best connection possible and get that line snaked. All your problems will be solved. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Jul 2, 2013 |
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Jul 2, 2013 02:58
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I'd say pull the toilet and see if it's stuck in a trap somewhere. I doubt that it's flexible enough to fit through the trap. I wonder if it's hiding under the lip at the bottom of the bowl.. FLush a few times pull up a glove and see what you can find.. if nothing.. Pull the toilet and see what you can find.
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Sep 14, 2013 03:32
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I had a similar issue with my old toilet, do you have access to the pipe below? Does it go straighy down? If yes get a short piece of pvc drain pipe a fernco flexible rubber adapter and a new flange. Also get new bolts pcv glue set (clear and purple) and a new wax ring. Cut the old pipe at a straight down point you can reach and use the pieces to put a new flange down. It will be easir than trying to wrestle the old rusted iron. And as long as you have access to a sawzall probably quicker.
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Oct 7, 2013 18:31
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You can get an electric water heater that heats ay the shower head, but they do require some connection that your apartment won't be cool with. They seem to be pretty popular in south America.
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Dec 10, 2013 18:23
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Motronic posted:Absolutely. My wife was watching house hunters international one day and I saw it and It terrified me to see through the TV.. wirenuts in the shower No thanks. I'm sure it's all pretty safe and you won't get electrocuted because water is broken up a bit when falling... but still I wouldn't enter that shower. edit: they are hunting for houses not hungry tater_salad fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Dec 10, 2013 |
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Dec 10, 2013 20:59
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some texas redneck posted:29.2 amps @ 120 volts... on "summer" mode That's def not getting plugged in to anything. BZZT
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Dec 11, 2013 16:43
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Your homeowners insurance may drop you if everything isn't to code. What Mister Wife said... If you use something that's not up to code and your house explodes it's your problem and the Ins. company won't pay out. With something like gas lines you def don't want to gently caress around and go cheap.
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Jan 20, 2014 15:34
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There should be and adjustment scew on or near the float that cuts the water off. Make sure that the float can move freely and isnt scummed up.
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Jan 26, 2014 00:11
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