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So i have an old natural gas heater that I tore out of a rome in the house I bought and have the gas shut off at the meter right now. If I want to cap off the gas line should I just use tape, or some kind of sealant to make sure it doesn't leak? There are already threads on the pipe so i thought I would just get a cap to fit it. I am planning on walling this line in so I want to be sure it won't be a problem going forward.
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Jul 1, 2013 06:22
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:You do not want to bury this in a wall. How far back can you go on the service? Are there shutoff valves inline? It's a long story, but this heater was obviously dangerous and likely not functional any longer. The gas line pokes up from the floor imside of the cavity left in the wall. I have a gas water heater and will switch to a central gas furnace from the baseboards as soon as I can afford to (probably next year or the year after). As far as in line shutoffs go I guess I could look under the house but it looks like years of mickey mouse repairs at this place so who knows.
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Jul 2, 2013 03:03
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So I Am in the middle of a big project. We are rellocating a water heater (done) and installing a furnace (in Process). While we were running gas pipe for the water heater we were trying to isolate leaks in the system and my Dad disconnected the gas that ran to where the water heater used to be and where the furnace is going to be. We needed to replace some of it with larger diameter piping anyhow, but I didn't think it was really a great idea. The pipes are pretty old and rusty but I figure we can probably still use them. There is a union that he opened up getting that part disconnected on a vertical bit of pipe that was used to drop down below the joists to run counter to them. Dad thinks we should not re-use the union and instead just buy a new one. Is Is OK to use a union for gas piping? Should I replace the fitting? Should I replace the pipes themselves? Seems like they cost a fortune. Also, It looks like some of it may be old galvanized. Is this OK? I had always heard you should use the black stuff for gas.
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Jan 20, 2014 07:14
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Perhaps I should restate that. There id existing galvanized pipe. Do I need to remove it? I plan to purchase new black iron for all the stuff that will be new, and I have permits for all the work and am pressure testing it at 15lbs for 15 min (code requires 10/10). Is the galv. A safety concern wher I am connecting to it? I reckon it has been there a long time. Also I have googled around and find that unions in gas lunes are a contentious issue. This will be in a crawl space in Oregon.
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Jan 20, 2014 19:09
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I am in the process of doing a furnace in my house right now and I guess I figure it really has more to do with if your system is designed for the restricted grilles. I went to a diy hvac shop where they have yo take measurements and drawings and for a couple hundred bucks they will design you a system. You can buy all of the materials there if you want (they seem price competitive with home depot and lowes)and they will fabricate the custom pieces you might need. Our designer said to figure on x number of square inches for return air lines and then to figure that grilles would lose about 40% in area due to the restriction so to size them accordingly. As far as I know the supply lines/boots were figured for just the standard 4"x10" and I can't imagine there is too much difference between most decorative ones and the stamped ones you see everywhere.
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Feb 28, 2014 05:13
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So the latest problem in the months long saga of my dad and i installing a furnace in my house is that Dad was testing the gas line today and says that all of the piping that we installed up to the shutoff will hold air all day long (my county require 10lbs for 10 min), but that when we open up the shutoff between the line and the furnace it won't hold. I was at work today while he was working on my house so I don't really know what he was doing, but he said he replaced the flex and re-tightened the 1/2 inch black iron between the flex and the furnace itself, which is comprised of a half in nipple sticking out the side and a t with a drip leg going down and a nipple on the top for the flex to connect to. Dad thinks that the appliance itself is leaking. My question is if that is really a concern or not. It is a brand new 80% efficient Goodman furnace. Are appliances expected to pass a pressure test? The only thing I can find in the installation manual is about minimum pressure coming off the gas line for the furnace to work. Can anyone give me a clue?
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May 6, 2014 03:10
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Jadunk posted:Please tell me you didn't slam 10psi into the appliance. They aren't designed to handle that much pressure, natural gas in homes is usually at like 0.25-0.5 psi. Only thing to do at this point is to spray all the joins outside of the furnace with soapy water and see if you can get any bubbles. Uh, well, I would guess that my father did, but I have not asked specifically. I doubt he got it up to pressure though. So did he likely just destroy some internals? e: Just asked my dad and apparently he pumped it up to 22psi. God help us. therobit fucked around with this message at 05:41 on May 6, 2014 |
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May 6, 2014 04:58
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Jadunk posted:Okay so coming back to this, I talked to our HVAC dude, he said if you're super lucky you might've just jammed the poo poo outta an internal diaphragm. He said that once the gas is turned on try firing it up with the cover off and gently tapping on the gas control near the inlet with a hammer or rubber mallet. If you're lucky the diaphragm will go back to where it should, if you're not you are in for a new gas control valve. (alternately go ahead and just order in a replacement gas control and swap it out) Thanks for this. I Just got back from talking with my dad and the diy heating shop I guess has a guy that mostly just fires up furnaces for a living. Taking everything into consideration, Dad just wants to buy the part and hire this guy to start it. He talked to the guy today, who was concerned about the shutoff valves and said we should have tested the whole gas system with capped lines. He said the shutoffs are only made for 5psi or so. He wants us to get our green slip for the gas lines and then have him come out to replace the furnace gas control valve and start the thing. So what it looks like to me is replace the shutoffs and and do a 24hr line test with caps on at 20psi. Does that sound right? Would 12 hrs be sufficient? When Dad was testing it I had the gas shut off to the between the piping to the furnace than the meter with an inline ball valve, but dad did not shut off the meter or the valves to the water heater. The water heater was running the whole time and is currently working, and I am thinking that it would not have held any pressure at all if the ball valve that had shut off the gas to the furnace line had failed as there would be nothing to stop it from just going up the line/into the water heater. Am I off base here? Do I really need to test the whole system? The inspector already signed off on the water heater, and that test was from the water heater back to the meter.
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May 7, 2014 06:31
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How long should I let the silicone cure before running water after re-installing a bathroom sink drain?
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Oct 4, 2015 15:53
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Unfortunately the package does not say. I just bought some 100% silicone in a tube. I guess I will just wait 24 hours or something.
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Oct 4, 2015 17:13
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Jadunk posted:I'm surprised the screw didn't hold pressure. I've seen small bathroom cabinets hung off screws into copper not cause a problem for years. (it only started leaking because the screw had rusted away) Thanks. I can allow my family to use the bathroom sink again.
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Oct 4, 2015 23:11
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I'm mulling over getting a tankless water heater. I live in the Portland, OR area where water temp coming out of the tap is supposedly and average of 52 degrees. I want to run 1-2 showers, a dishwasher, and a high efficiency washing machine with enough left over for washing hands and large dishes in a sink or two. I think this means I need one rated for around 11GPM max because it will only produce around 6-8 GPM at 60 degrees temp rise. Does that sound correct? Follow up question: I have a 3/4 inch gas pipe into the mechanical closet where I would be installing this, but in the same closet I have a 1/2 inch coming off of that for my furnace. Do I need to run a new 3/4 supply line from the 1" main (about 40' of pipe away)?
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Mar 23, 2020 23:55
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I wash towels and bedding on hot, clothes on cold. Our washing machine is constantly in use because we have young kids, one of whom is still having accidents, etc. I was looking at this one: https://www.rinnai.us/product/tankless-water-heater/rur199in It says 3-6 fixtures. We are going to get a new dishwasher later this year, but we use a 1980s rollaway currently. Is this major overkill for my climate? My thought was that I would not be getting close to the top of the range on a 60-65 degree temp rise. I don't have a great understanding of the GPM figures, but I thought the rule of thumb was 2.5 GPM for each shower, 1.5 for the dishwasher, and 2 for the washing machine. Is that wrong? I would rather be a little oversized than a little undersized unless there is a good reason not to oversize besides cost.
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Mar 24, 2020 02:34
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I mean, I think 11 GPM is based on only 35 degrees temp rise. I need 60ish degrees, and would be looking at an output of around 6.5 GPM. At least, according to the flow rate info in the manual. But it sounds like that's overdoing it, or else there is something I'm missing?
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Mar 25, 2020 15:41
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H110Hawk posted:You're reading that chart correctly, and that assumes you have short and well insulated connections from the output of the heater to the spigots. I have to go "up a setting" (I think to 130F) to actually get 120F water at my faucet. 120F - 50F = 70F delta T. That Rinnai 199K BTU unit is going to deliver 5.5GPM on your coldest days. If you don't have a compelling reason to go tankless, I would put a tanked heater in. If you actually use a shitload of hot water simultaneously (how often is your washer filling for your hot loads Yeah, short doesn't apply to my washing machine, dishwasher, or kitchen sink. Well-insulated doesn't apply to any of it. I would like to be able to throw in a load of laundry and a load of dishes before hopping into the shower. It's kind of the weekend routine around here. A tankless would allow me to relocate the hot water back where it is supposed to be in this house (long story) which would solve the problem of pressure drop in the hot line any time someone turns on water elsewhere in the house. Also, my daughter is fond of taking long showers, after taking a bath.
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Mar 25, 2020 22:49
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at the same time you're taking two showers? (or whatever makes sense.)
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The reason for the drop in pressure is that the water heater was moved to somewhere where it is coming through a long run of 1/2" copper to get anywhere instead of starting on 3/4" and then necking down to 1/2" closer to the fixtures. Going tankless will let me put it back into it's original location and hook it up to the 3/4".
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Mar 26, 2020 00:57
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tater_salad posted:I'm invested into the Ryobi world.. I just saw that they have recently released tools so I'd rather use that so I'm not sitting with another charger / ecosystem. I'm coming in late on this, but I was able to find a pex-a tool at a local rental place. So if you don't have one yet try calling around.
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Apr 23, 2020 04:50
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Rockwool has a much higher melting point. When I worked insulation in college we used to put it around recessed lighting. It will gently caress your hands up something fierce though. And wear a mask. One time I was insulting a can on a job site and got distracted talking to someone. I wasn't wearing a mask because it was 107 degrees outside. A half inch by half inch piece of rockwool drifted down from the can just as I was taking a breath and turning back to my work. I sucked it right down into my throat. I have asthma and had the worst coughing fit which caused me to fall off the ladder onto the floor. I continued coughing until I had to lean out a window opening to throw up. It really sucked.
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Apr 29, 2020 16:57
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Is the 800 worth the price increase over the 500? The kid at the store said the only difference was noise level but he didn't seem to know a lot so I'm not sure if he was leading me astray. We're planning a kitchen and bath remodel and have never had an under cabinet dishwasher. Also looking for fridge recommendations. Ice maker and water not required.
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Apr 29, 2020 23:07
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Motronic posted:Yeah, I always use rinse agent, but that doesn't necessarily do it with my particular water hardness. So it's definitely an "it depends" whether something like that is gonna be worth it or not to someone. Yeah, I don't have much of a choice about it unless I buy something grey market though. My old 90s rollaway requires that I remove every trace of food from the dishes prior to washing them or they won't get clean, so that probably make sup for 15-30 minutes at least.
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May 1, 2020 05:09
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Is a plumbing supply house the best place to buy kitchen and bathroom sinks? Home Depot pretty much only has Kohler in their store. Anyone know of a good place in the Portland area?
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Jun 7, 2020 02:33
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Anyone know a decent brand for a 5 hole double basin cast iron kitchen sink? My wife wants a hot water dispenser and I don't like the look of the faucets where you pull it down to make it a sprayer.
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Jun 23, 2020 07:07
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I have channeling in a couple spots on my long rear end cast iron sewer lateral. The place where it connects to the big pipe in the lane isn't deep enough to install a new pipe to code, and roto rooter said they wouldn't touch it. Would it be a dumb idea to excavate the pipe and replace everything from a foot to either side of those bellies with a and leave the old cast iron connection to the sewer? Would trenchless pipe fixing be a better option?
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Jul 29, 2020 07:59
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PainterofCrap posted:I'm having a bit of trouble following you here, but it sounds like you have a problem with your sewer lateral, and RR won't touch it as a possible code issue, and you want to know if you can dig it out yourself and replace it towards both ends. So basically the sewer connection is way too shallow and I have a total of about 90' of sewer pipe because they decided to run the sewer line from the house out the back and around instead of our the front where the main sewer is. So the slope is supposedly not sufficient to be up to code. Roto Rooter said that the only thing they would do was to cap off and abandon the existing connection, flip my sewer line around underneath the house, excavate underneath the foundation wall, and re-tap the sewer. They want $20k t9 do.yhis work. The thing is that it has backed up maybe 3 or 4 times in the 7 years I've been living in the home, and at least a couple of those times a baby wipe had made it into the lateral somehow. So I kind of feel like if I cut out the places where it is channeling, it might actually be fine since that sewer line has been there for at least 60 years, maybe longer. I did call the permit office at the sewer company, and the guy gave me a call back saying that he recommended running it out the front of the house too and it was clear he was surprised at how shallow it was when he checked the depth. But he did say that if I keep it on my property and didn't touch the main I would not need a permit. He also sent me a sewer profile (his term, I haven't seen it yet) and maps of the sewer main and the lateral on my property from the sewer company's records.
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Jul 30, 2020 04:21
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I'm doing a kitchen and bath remodel and I'm sick of lovely faucets and hoping to get guidance on the fixtures. Are Kingston Brass OK? How about Phister? 8 have eschewed Delta and Moen because That's what they have at Home Depot.
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Aug 9, 2020 01:16
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devicenull posted:Find a plumbing supply place near you and order faucets there. Definitely make sure the particular model numbers are not available at Lowes/Home Depot I am. They have a bunch of Kingston Brass there but the reviews online are mixed. Nitrox posted:There is nothing terribly wrong with Delta/Moen faucets. Just get whatever looks good to you. Even from Home Depot. I really don't like grabbing a faucet handle or sprayer and having it feel like cheap plastic poo poo in my hand. Additionally I hate dealing with plumbing issues and I hate paying to have stuff redone because something cheap broke.
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Aug 9, 2020 06:18
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Thanks for the suggestion. Ever tried Phister faucet?
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Aug 10, 2020 05:21
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actionjackson posted:does anyone have one of the bidet toilet seats? The cold water is refreshing, especially in winter.
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Sep 13, 2020 22:08
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SpartanIvy posted:Also punch your brother in the face Applicable advice for anyone who has a brother, really. If they ask why just say that they should remember what they did to you that one time back when you were kids. They'll fill in the blanks and realize you are right.
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Sep 22, 2020 00:23
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Sneeing Emu posted:No adapter, and the other decision-maker doesn't want to cut the drywall on the other side, so sounds like I'm left with these two options. Thanks, friends! Is a a closet or something important on the other side?
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Oct 19, 2020 02:12
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Sneeing Emu posted:Its just a wall for the shower piping pretty much, the toilet is on the other side. I've made my case for putting in an access panel there, but so far it has been denied. Ok so what you do is you get your partner too drunk and stoned to consent and then ask them if you can stick a new rough in into the wall. Then you do it while they are recovering from the hangover. When they wake up it's fait accompli! Or, you know, jut promise to patch the drywall when you are done. If you're careful you might even not have to cut another piece.
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Oct 19, 2020 04:56
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Is it safe to put a sharkbite>PEX-A fitting underneath my house? This would solve a huge problem for me and make it easier than learning to sweat copper and buying a torch and hoping I don't burn my house down.
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Nov 8, 2020 00:15
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