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My main plumbing stack shoots all the way up through the roof of the house as a stink pipe, yet there is an open Y-connector in the basement that the laundry machine drains into via a garden hose, why doesn't the laundry room smell like sewer? This is just a random thing I've wondered about from time to time. edit: gently caress I mis-remembered, there is a trap, whole question is void
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May 7, 2009 02:40
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dreesemonkey posted:
Attach a hose that leads back into the bucket... doesn't account for overflows though.
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Jul 23, 2009 03:27
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"[panic posted:"] Could be the sink or tub/shower drain? Try plugging those and see if that stops the smell.
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Jan 18, 2010 13:35
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I've got a Moen single-handle rotaty control in my shower and lately the temperature has gone crazy. It'll be perfect for 5 minutes, then a minor loss of pressure from someone else using a sink elsewhere in the house, and when the pressure comes back it's scalding hot. Could the cartridge be causing these temperature fluctuations, or am I looking at a bigger issue? The control is very much like this one, but in a different style.
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Mar 26, 2010 12:31
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:It could be the cartridge, it could be the water heater. Just the shower, everywhere else is as constant as it's always been. Also the water heater is only a couple of months old, whereas the shower controls are almost 20 years old I believe.
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Mar 26, 2010 22:53
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Would an easy way to tell be to pour water in and see if it maintains a level in the trap or if it just drains away never to be seen again?
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Apr 19, 2010 12:26
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There's multiple Baden goons?  (Not from Baden, just Paris)
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May 15, 2010 01:38
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stubblyhead posted:Thanks for the reply. Does it sound reasonable to you that the lack of a flange could result in a poor seal? Installing a new toilet I thought I ended up with a similar problem. Turns out that I hadn't tightened the tank on to the bowl tight enough, and there was a slow enough leak that it was drawn down the bowl and looked like a leak at the drain despite coming out of the bolts holding the tank onto the bowl. Solved that one after the 2nd wax ring!
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Sep 21, 2010 22:03
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To start with you should probably start bailing that water into another sink or toilet, and invest in a bucket.
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Dec 30, 2010 03:50
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Water softener question, it's a Culligan Mark 100 and it's 14 years old. It seems to go through the forced regeneration cycle just fine but when it's idle the brine tank slowly fills up with water until it's overflowing. I've drained the brine tank, cleaned it, and refilled it. The 'pump', float, and hose going to the brine tank all seem to be doing what they should be doing. I'm thinking a valve or seal problem in the main bit of the unit where all the pipes tie in, but I figured I'd throw the question out here first. What's wrong with my softener?
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Jan 10, 2011 02:41
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Tackled replacing the overflowing ineffecient water softener with a new GE today. First time really getting into plumbing, the most I've done before this is a couple of sharkbites and a vanity drain reorientation. I think I did well, no leaks!
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Feb 12, 2011 23:18
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Only think I could suggest that could be done differently is. It came with a sliding plastic bypass yes. Also provided for connections to the water were 1" plastic NPTs so I had to come up with a way to get from 1/2" copper to 1" threads and using PVC was the cheapest (and easiest for me, I've got lots of PVC experience) solution I could come up with. Any better suggestions on how I could've got from 1/2" copper to the 1" male threads on the softener? I was undecided on whether I should add in the ball-valve bypass and decided not to. The old softener lasted 14 years, so 6 hours of work isn't a lot compared to how long this thing hopefully works for.
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Feb 12, 2011 23:56
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I wasn't scared of soldering, and it turned out to actually be really easy to do so I'm glad I learned it. My problem with copper was that I couldn't find any with 1" female NPT, I found one that was 1/2" to 3/4" NPT but then I couldn't get from that to 1" NPT which was why I went with PVC. Also didn't know that PVC wasn't legal for water anymore.
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Feb 13, 2011 04:49
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Since it's leaking where the neck meets the body, probably a gasket issue? Whether you could disassemble the faucet enough to get to that gasket is another matter... Call it a feature, free water fountain.
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Apr 8, 2011 02:00
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pseudonordic posted:It's 2" tall where the current one I have is 11/16". 11/16 installed or uninstalled? They compress. Any time I've had leaking it has been from not tightening the bolts enough.
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Dec 31, 2011 00:56
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W. D. Basterd posted:Advice? Clean the lint trap after every load.
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Nov 13, 2017 03:06
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jackpot posted:I can't figure out how this was attached so I can't figure out how to put it back. What happened? I assume I can't use anything permanent to fix it, like epoxy, because it has to be removable if I ever have to work on the sink, right? Probably just slides on to the stick and then is held in place with a tiny set screw. Is there a small hole anywhere on the handle that is missing its set screw?
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Dec 2, 2017 06:41
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monsterzero posted:It seemed like the easiest thing for us to have hosed up, but now that you mentioned it it has continued to leak when not flushed... and the toilet/wax/flange should be ‘dry’ then, right? Hmm. As stated above, I had a leak that I thought was wax ring related because that was where the water became visible. Reality was it was just a really really slow leak from the bolts that hold the tank to the throne.
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Feb 22, 2018 03:28
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lol internet. posted:I can't seem to find a way to take the handle off if that's even possible. Behind the little yin/yang hot/cold symbol is a set screw to remove the handle.
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May 1, 2018 00:38
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devicenull posted:I have no opinions here other then you want way more valves around your filter. You want to be able to completely bypass the filter just by turning valves, so that when it starts leaking you're not without water until you can fix it. Look up water softener bypasses, same idea.
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Jun 13, 2018 05:17
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Unkempt posted:floor hole Accurate description. Does this lead to a crawl space?
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Aug 14, 2018 03:31
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Cold is fine for the toilet-seat bidets, the water sits in the plastic tube and warms up to room temperature and it's actually fine.
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Apr 5, 2020 02:31
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I once had a tricky leak that I thought was the wax seal but turned out to be the bolts that bolt the tank to the bowl, tightened them up and the leak went away. Use strategic rags to verify where the leak is actually coming from.
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Apr 14, 2020 00:24
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PainterofCrap posted:Goddamn dude, is the top of your water heater covered in rat poo poo? I mean, his water heater is in a lovely lean-to outside of the house so none of that is very unexpected.
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May 29, 2020 00:31
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actionjackson posted:do you have one of these seats? I've got one that attaches under the seat, the cold water is fine.
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Sep 13, 2020 23:49
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Bioshuffle posted:I cleared the p trap, reconnected everything, and poured boiling water down the sink. It still didn't clear the clog. Can I rule out an ice blockage? Or could it be the surface area is so small that even boiling water wouldn't be enough to melt everything? Is that an outside wall? If yes, it's probably frozen. Probably a good idea to leave your taps dripping to keep water flowing to prevent your feeds from freezing.
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Feb 17, 2021 04:19
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B-Nasty posted:I still remember the silly mnemonic from a kid's science book I read when I was like 8: "tite is on the top, and mite is on the bottom." Now you'll crush that Jeopardy question when it comes up. Easier one: stalaCtite (ceiling), stalaGmite (ground)
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Jan 8, 2022 07:07
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everdave posted:Here is the hump You can shave that down with the lawnmower, just send it.
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Oct 12, 2022 04:40
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 10:59 |
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Cut in a rectangular hole big enough to put a floor register in?
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Jan 22, 2024 00:07
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