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Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

The line from our sink has a clog in it, and my 15ft hand snake isn't long enough to reach it, so was going to rent an electric one from home depot, and our laundry drain has been slow since we bought the house (8month ago) so was going to snake it while I have it rented. However there is a trap in the laundry drain and it's inside the wall, will I be able to get a 1/2" snake around the trap?

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Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

That sounded like solid advice, so I got my snake to have an idea where the trap is so I don't need to cut a huge hole, and it appears the trap is about 5in under the floor? (It's a slab foundation)

I would assume there would be a hole in the slab there, is that a fair assumption?

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Hm, maybe I will just try some drain clog cleaning chemicals for the laundry drain...

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Honestly it could be a bigger issue, but I believe the two issues are separate as the clean outs for both don't have any standing water, so I would assume it's in the line before the clean outs. We're on a sewer.

But yeah could just be a 90 and be vented, didn't really consider that, never lived on a slab before so learning all kinds of fun things. But there is a trap under the sink.

Shortly after we bought the house we found out that the sewer main was partially collapsed under the driveway, don't know for how long but could that have been a contributing factor to these issues even though that has since been fixed?

Rakeris fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Dec 18, 2020

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Ok, thanks for the advice, I'm going to call a pro out to inspect it.

Yeah when they repaired the collapsed pipe/main tap it was pretty cool how clearly you could see everything though the inspection camera. Pretty cool stuff.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

So turns out the previous owners dumped ducking tons of grease down the sink, and it had build up all the way down to where the laundry line Tees (or maybe a Y hard to tell) into to kitchen line, the laundry line only had a small opening where water could get though, he was able to open it more with a snake but will have to get it hydrojetted to clear it out to any extent.

The build up was pretty impressive honestly surprised it took this long to cause any issues. Fortunately he checked the rest of the lines out with the camera and other than a few low spots everything else looks good, so that is good.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

We were out of power for several days and ended up going to a friend's house that had power and being in the south with well below freezing temps nothing here is designed around that, so I shut off our water at the main and took out the meter so I could drain what I could out of the house to reduce the risk of pipes busting if they froze.

However there was this plastic/rubber insert between the meter and the residential side, (it's inside of like a 4in' copper nipple) anyone know what it's for? I tried to pull it out but didn't put much effort in it as we had other issues to worry about, but was kind of curious in hindsight.

If it's to reduce pressure, is there any downside to pulling it out or replacing the piece of pipe it's in?

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Interesting, I had not heard of a manifold system before and watched a couple videos on it, and it's pretty nifty idea, not sure how I feel about the potential additional wasted water (waiting for hot water).

But has a lot of up sides to it, especially if you have a location for the manifold.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Idk, all of em in my house and the last couple places I lived were all ball valves. Anecdotal however.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

One thing I will say with PEX and freezing, is most of the plumbing in my house was redone in pex who knows when and in the recent north texas freeze nothing broke or anything. Granted I did the basic BS like leaving anything that had plumbing running through the outside walls dripping. But it survived with almost 0 insulation sub freezing temps for 5 days.

I was surprised, but also amazed coming from the deep north where freezing temps are normal for months and how here basic poo poo like outdoor spigots have valves above the ground... :doh:

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Huh, kind of wish they would do that were I live, we live near a water tower, and when they need to waste water out of it they just let the hydrants go to grade and it floods the streets for several blocks occasionally.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Funny I moved out of the ole stinky P right before the whole covid poo poo hit the fan. I never bought a house as when looking three/four years ago the average time houses sat on the market was...uh not good. Cat moving HQs out didn't help for sure.

Only time I've missed it was when we had a bit of a freeze down here in TX, never though I would have to wrap all my outdoor faucets and poo poo in a blanket and a tarp and leave water running so poo poo didn't freeze, just down south things I guess. On the plus side don't have to dig very far to fix things.

I have an old toilet that does the same, just flushes not good, no other way to put it, one of these days I'll replace it but I think it's just the toilet being crap from decades ago.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

I would second the call to you Nat gas company, when we moved into our house I called and asked them and they did it for free, which was nice.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Yeah like 8 months or so after we moved into our house we found out that the previous renter/owner poured grease down the drains for probably years, plumber said it was the worst residential grease build up he had seen, took him almost two hours with a hydrojet to clear it all out.

I never poured grease down drains from growing up on a septic and had no idea it could get that bad.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Motronic posted:

Basically this, but it also means more parts, more expensive, and more likely to break. It also needs more service.

There is a debate-not-much-debate about this and I think anyone who installs or services these things for a living has a non-condensing unit in their own home but loves selling condensing units.

Yeah when I got a water heater last year the plumber told me that, he wouldn't use one in his house, but some peeps love the "efficiency" even though it would take decades to pay for itself, and if you don't maintain them they can get scale and stuff built up in them. Which he said was common as no one does the proper maintenance on them.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Yeah, never worked on a tankless, but a gas tank is crazy simple to work on, only a few actual parts and all are easy to change.

I had the gas value go out on my brand new Rheem (less than 6months since manufactured) and I guess that like never happens, support peeps on the phone had me go though the whole test procedure twice and and even take it out and check the ohms on it.

Then overnighted me a new one for no charge and had it in and running like an hour after it arrived. Only reason it look that long was I didn't think to drain the water heater before it arrived.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

My wife is going all in on plant things, and wants either a rain barrel or a RO system, not messed with RO systems for over a decade, I can't imagine they have changed a lot. But I see a lot of them on craigslist/marketplace for <$50 anything I should look for when picking up a used one cheap? As that seems like the best year round setup. Waste water from the AC in the summer and wtvr I can get setup for the winter is the idea.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Motronic posted:

What are these sources again, because condensate isn't gonna make much water? And what do you intend to use the water for?

Because RO still has all the same issues. You're losing at least 1/4 of the water to waste, often much more. It's literally stripped of almost everything so it tastes flat, sucks for cooking, etc.

The only thing I know of as good uses of RO are fish tanks (where you are adding back in whatever mineral package you need) and flooded lead acid batteries.

The condensate is from the AC, it makes a few gallons a day when the AC is running. Which is fine for the summer, not so much in the winter. She wants it for plants, as it's supposedly better for plants.

Yeah I know there is a decent amount of waste from RO, I was doing some googling and I guess there are countertop water distillers too? I'll probably look into those as well.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

We had to have about a 70ft section hydrojetted and it was around 400 for the first 1.5 hours and like 100 per for any additional hours iirc. Only took em like an hour or so. Had it done earlier this year or maybe late last year?

Rakeris fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Sep 26, 2021

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

So they were going to jet it and not even check with a camera to make sure they got it all unless you paid them extra? Jeesh.

Yeah had places do that to me, had a roofing co that I had used a number of times and was always reasonable, called em out for a couple hundred $ job and quoted me almost 2k, and I was wtf? Doubled down with that was as cheap as they could do it cause reasons, had another dude do it for 150$ :shrug:

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

frogbs posted:

That does not include drywall/repairs. They proposed they could do it without cutting any drywall (by putting the toilet stuff directly through the floor on the left/right with some sort of shroud). I assume that's code, but maybe not ideal, right?

If your not afraid of a little work replacing or patching drywall is pretty easy, never done it before a few weeks/month ago. Got some hot mud at the recommend of someone here and just picked up a pack of square repair panels, it worked out good. If I could have fit a full sheet in my car would have been cheaper and have more left over for later uses but :shrug:

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

B-Nasty posted:

Another thing to note is that a job of this size can often be broken up into sub-jobs that might be cheaper to hire out separately. Plumbers hate digging, and they charge super high rates if they need to pickup a shovel or rent a miniex. Meanwhile, there are probably dozens of excavation contractors near you that have the equipment and operators necessary to dig/fill the trench in a few hours for much cheaper. Then, you just hire any old plumber to lay the pipe. The other benefit to this is the operator you get from a company dedicated to it is probably skilled enough to pluck a petal from a rose with his bucket, not a butcher that never uses one like Joe Plumber.

This x100, my dad runs an excavation company, and he charges a fraction of what some plumbing companies charge for even minor excavation work, and I'll bet 10/10 he'll clean the job up much nicer and do less collateral damage (to grass, shrubs etc). That is ofc considering the plumbing company didn't just book him for the job and upcharge you for the service.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

In what limited experience I have, pro press are "better" that solder in the sense that they are easy, hard to gently caress up, and require little skill. However make up for all that in being expensive as gently caress, (for the fittings and the tool to press them) especially for anything large diameter.

Afaik they are just as strong as welded or soldered connections.(probably better on average as they are harder to gently caress up)

Rakeris fucked around with this message at 06:07 on Dec 1, 2021

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Slugworth posted:

Lol

In any case, definitely have the gas company come out. At least in my experience, they'll come out and assess it for free, and if it's an easy fix, they'll fix it as well. And then relight your water heater for you. It's a pretty great service.

Maybe your gas co doesn't do that though.

This really depends on the gas co and the technician, my wife smelled gas one day I was at work so just called the gas co to come out and check it, due to COVID they can't go into houses or garages, so they turned off the gas and said: dunno what's wrong but gas smell bad, call a Plummer :shrug: and lol it's Friday so can't turn it back on till at least Monday! Enjoy your cold showers and hope you have a microwave!

Turned out it was sewer gas coming out of a dried out P trap in the garage. =\

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

So I need a tool to cut the old flange off for a toilet I'm replacing, it's on the outside and has very little clearance, only even done ones on the inside and a multi tool or sawzall was easy enough but I don't have the room for either? I'm sure there is a simple thing I'm not thinking of atm.

Pic for science. I didn't do the tilework, but for the POs credit, they did grout the entire flange in so that made things more fun. I also have no idea what is going on with the subfloor.

How the gently caress do you do images on this terrible form.



After thinking about it, I can just say gently caress it, cut off what I can and install an inside flange, any reason not to?

On that note, anyone used the push to seal ones? Would make replacement in the future a lot easier, but would worry about any backup if it's not cemented in.

Rakeris fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Jan 5, 2022

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

So I installed two new toilets, and they actually seal now. (not that the three wax ring job wasn't sealed...) But now they siphon out of each other, so I figured the vent pipe was clogged, tried to snake it and was hitting something very hard around 4ft down. So got a camera on the amazon shuffle, and it looks like it's caped off?

I think my only option here is to open up the wall and see wtf is going on, unless anyone has any other ideas?



Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

tater_salad posted:

is it below freezing in your area? Is it possible that's ice buildup from being backed up at somepoint?

edit: it's kind of hard to figure out what's going on there with that picture.

No, it's only been below freezing here at most for a few hours at night. Yeah the picture isn't great, but wtvr it is it is hard and feels magnetic (the camera came with a small magnet attachment)

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

SpartanIvy posted:

So that's 4' down the vent pipe from the roof? Any attic access so you can go check it out?

That looks like it could be the bottom of an elbow instead of a wye. Did you really give it a good look around to make sure the shadows weren't hiding anything? You could also pour some water down it and see what happens.

Yeah, there is attic access but it is below the attic (very shallow attic), but I'll check it out, didn't really think about that.

I bent it around a number of way to try to get it anywhere else but it wasn't happening. Good call on the water, I'll give that a go.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Rakeris posted:

Yeah, there is attic access but it is below the attic (very shallow attic), but I'll check it out, didn't really think about that.

I bent it around a number of way to try to get it anywhere else but it wasn't happening. Good call on the water, I'll give that a go.

Ok! Had time to gently caress with this some more, crawled as close as I could in the attic, but can't get to the pipe, can see it and it appears to look fine from where I was? Idk, black slightly rusty cast iron, not much to see really.

Went and poured some water down the pipe while I had the camera in it, it very slowly recedes, two vids below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEarLl2AWl8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn1_qcqCDjs

Any ideas? Cause I think I'm in the: Well, time to measure where it is and cut a hole in the wall to see wtf is going on.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

SpartanIvy posted:

This is crazy as hell. I have no real idea. My first thought was maybe something crawled in and died like a bird, and then a bunch of dirt and filth over years filled in the gaps around the corpse and leveled the blockage off. But you said you hit it with a snake and it didn't budge, so I doubt that's it. Since it's only four feet down, maybe you could use a threaded rod or something similar like a spear and try to pierce it as one last hurrah before doing sheetrock damage. If you can get a hole through it, you could maybe fish it out with some bent coat hanger on a pole or at least get a better grip on it with the snake to break it up.

Yeah wtvr it is, it's solid, I also tried hitting it with the snake, camera, and some fiberglass rods I have for fishing wire, they are pretty flexible but still feels solid. Might as well give some threaded rod or pipe a go and see what happens. :shrug:

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Maybe something like this? https://www.vintagetub.com/bathroom/tub-faucets.html?features=1963

But honestly I dunno what you are looking for, if I have ever seen a faucet like what you are describing I don't recall it. But I like the one handle jobs, easy, simple, one hole, and less work to fix.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

schreibs posted:

heh came to ask a very similar question. 18 month old Rheem Pro Classic 40 gallon just shut off over the weekend - the guys that installed it said the gas control valve has gone bad and replaced on warranty minus labor. Still wasnt working properly and they said burner needs to be replaced as well, both part and labor not covered. Just confused how something a year and a half old can become inoperable and not be warrantied on a tank with a 10 yr warranty. I thought thats the point of the warranty?

Rheem had a bad run of gas control valves in 2020, they were all or mostly deflective. (confirmed by rheem tech support) I replaced mine three times...the first two times was with the same run of valves but this last time (just last week) is supposedly a new run with the issue fixed. It's pretty easy to replace, and if you are remotely handy, and ok with working with gas lines, the longest part of it is waiting for the tank to drain. (You could make a vacuum in tank with it when full. However depending where it is might not want to gamble with water damage if done incorrectly.)

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

SpartanIvy posted:

Wait what? Where is the gas valve on your water heater that it's anywhere near the tank? All the tanks I've seen have the gas valve sticking out the front. The gas valve and thermostat are attached to the thermostat probe that goes into the tank but they can be disconnected from it and they're not attached solidly enough that you'd damage the tank accidentally.

It's the thing that goes inside the tank to regulate the temp and control the gas to the burner/pilot. The one I have you can unhook it from the pilot, thermocouple, and burner. The one for my water heater is below.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Rheem-S...KUaAvZLEALw_wcB

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

SpartanIvy posted:

This is crazy as hell. I have no real idea. My first thought was maybe something crawled in and died like a bird, and then a bunch of dirt and filth over years filled in the gaps around the corpse and leveled the blockage off. But you said you hit it with a snake and it didn't budge, so I doubt that's it. Since it's only four feet down, maybe you could use a threaded rod or something similar like a spear and try to pierce it as one last hurrah before doing sheetrock damage. If you can get a hole through it, you could maybe fish it out with some bent coat hanger on a pole or at least get a better grip on it with the snake to break it up.

Ok, got a trip report for this, now that the two weeks of winter is over. Bought a 7ft threaded rod, and was able to shove it thought the clog, I did that numerous times but it still wasn't clear, (don't think rod was long enough) it appeared to be at least 2ft thick by how far it was showing up on the rod. It appeared to be dirt? Didn't smell bad, looked like dirt. :shrug:

But feeling close to success I got the garden hose with a high pressure nozzle, (a rain coat would have been smart too) and shoved it down there and was able to eventually clear it out, all appears good now. Thanks all.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Need to get a basin wrench for a faucet swap and happened across one of these fancy looking alternatives. Was wondering if anyone had any experience with them?

Fancy dodad

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Hard to say how bad it could be without more in-depth knowledge, like how your lines are tied together etc. Probably best to have someone come out and drop a camera down to see how bad things are, if there is a large amount of grease deposits will probably need hydro jetted.

I would definitely call a handful of places to see what they would charge for both. Even if they won't give you a quote over the phone (I know a lot of peeps around me won't, for wtvr loving reason), but give free "in person quotes" don't give two fucks about telling them to take a hike, till you talk to other companies/contractors as the prices can often be drastically different, in the terms of hundreds of dollars for the exact same service.

On that same note, don't be afraid to try to negotiate on the prices, even with large companies.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Huh, are all toto toilets that complex of an install? (Complex in terms of toilet installs that is) Or just the fancy ones?

Cool tile though, is each piece individual? Or is it on sheets?

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

That's cool, just sleeving it? How much ID do you lose?

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Bump? As in dirt over grade from excavation? If so yes, water it well and it will go down pretty quick. And imo yes they should be cleaning your floors if they are that dirty.

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Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

everdave posted:

Yes on bump over excavation, and the new trap by street sticks way up?

Again they did a shot ton of work and I haven’t paid so I’m in the power position and I texted ow we when I got home and he will be here in morning.

Yeah I’m not paying 12k and having to clean my house after

How far is way up? Could be poor backfill compaction which may lower it a little overtime (or with watering)...if that is the case I would be worried about fall. However it could just be installed higher than you are used to. (Latter is most likely imo)

They can be easily cut and lowered to flush with the grass or you can cut it lower and put in a box. Do not cut below grade and bury them.

When I worked excavation if we messed up someone's house we either cleaned it ourselves or just paid a cleaning service.

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