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I’ve lived in this house for 10 years. The downstairs bathroom always kind of smelled, but I only used it for cleaning paint brushes and garage stuff, so I figured I was just old and gross. Last year we decided to redo the basement into livable space. I swapped the sink with a new vanity, and replaced everything above the black ABS drain that goes into the concrete floor. I don’t think I made any substantial changes, except that I Y’d a stub off the back of that black pipe into the garage, hoping to add a new paintbrush-etc sink later. I’ve got a sewer smell coming up through the sink drain. I think it’s the same smells I had for years, but I’m not sure. I asked in the DIY thread and now I’m second-guessing that maybe it’s a new problem I’ve caused. Ideas? Can I actually legally use that stub I put into the garage as a sink drain later? Will putting a vent on that stub maybe solve my smells?
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# ¿ Aug 12, 2019 03:58 |
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2024 09:30 |
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DrBouvenstein posted:It's a Delta, but it's also old, so who knows its a valve I can still get. Might just replace the tub faucet and handle since I don't like this style anyway. I like having separate controls for flow and temp, not just "always on full blast" with temp control. If you change your mind, you can just call Delta and they’ll send you a new cartridge for free, no matter how old, as long as you pinky swear you’re the original owner of the fixture. edit: oops. That’s a Moen thing. No idea if Delta has the same policy. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Nov 1, 2019 |
# ¿ Nov 1, 2019 18:17 |
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scuz posted:am i losing my mind or is it truly possible that whoever installed the bathroom in our house did so without putting in a single supply valve to the tub faucet?? our delta 1400 series tub faucet is leaking and i could fix the motherfucker if i could find the supply valves, but i can't find a single one behind the wall or in the basement Neither of my tubs have them. I turn off water to the whole house when I change cartridges. It’s a mild inconvenience. I suspect having them on soldered-in fixtures would be more rare than not.
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# ¿ Feb 25, 2020 00:02 |
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scuz posted:Yeah this is the answer I've arrived at but have one wee question: The one main cold shutoff will shut off everything. Your hot water is pressurized by the city supply too. Opening a basement sink will drain the upper lines.
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# ¿ Feb 25, 2020 00:28 |
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:I'm finally circling back to my utility sink project if anyone remembers. Just cut it. You won’t be able to torch that hot enough to melt the solder with water inside. https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-0-62...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2020 23:36 |
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BonerGhost posted:Is there a purpose for stubs in copper supply lines? I've got a leaky T fitting in my kitchen that needs to be replaced, and it's right below the vertical stub. I'm not super keen on replacing that portion if it's just a leftover. Are you talking about the water hammer arrestor? You want that so your pipes don’t rattle when you turn off the faucet.
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# ¿ Sep 28, 2020 02:49 |
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BonerGhost posted:It's just a section of pipe that extends vertically past the tee and is capped off, not a device. Does this actually function as an arrestor? The idea here is to have a bubble of air trapped in the vertical sections to act as a spring.
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# ¿ Sep 28, 2020 16:20 |
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Is it possible to buy an 1-1/4 drain stopper assembly that I can tighten down onto a hole cut into a 5gal bucket? Everything I found at the big box store was made to fit a tapered hole in an actual sink. I even bought one for a mobile home, but no amount of plumbers putty will make it work.
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# ¿ Oct 1, 2020 21:26 |
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BubbaGrace posted:Maybe a drain assembly for a vessel sink might work. You will need to find one with no overflow openings. I was looking at something like this, if I could just swap the rubber bits for flat seals, but the guy wearing a vest had no patience for my nonsense. https://www.menards.com/main/p-1444437568609.htm
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# ¿ Oct 1, 2020 22:03 |
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I completely regret not buying an elongated toilet.
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# ¿ Oct 13, 2020 02:31 |
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Be careful not to overtighten your new drain with that tool. Cracking a cast iron tub because I thought tighter means less leaks was my first rookie homeowner mistake.
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# ¿ Jul 27, 2021 21:46 |
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I’m trying to replace the cartridge in this: I got it apart and realized that the valve body is just floating in the wall. Not attached to a stud like I think it should be. The only thing keeping the valve body in place was JB Weld slathered between a plastic trim ring behind the wall and the chrome sleeve over the cartridge body. There’s no fixing this correctly without opening a wall, right? The opposite side of the wall is another fiberglass shower kit in another bathroom.
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# ¿ Sep 15, 2021 20:16 |
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Welp, I’m putting in a new cartridge then sealing it up with more JBWeld. Next time it leaks, I guess I’m buying a new shower kit.
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# ¿ Sep 16, 2021 02:33 |
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Taking the pieces to the store is always a good idea, but if you try to pull out the valve packing, you’ll just get a handful of graphite crumbles. This is what usually packs around the handle stem. I got blank stares last time I asked for it at HD. Watch a YouTube to see how tight to pack it. https://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-3-32-in-x-36-in-Valve-Packing-80794/203193512
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# ¿ Apr 25, 2022 16:24 |
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Buck Turgidson posted:Alright I've done some basic toilet maintenance before but I've never seen a setup like this: I’d just replace it all. The semi-universal kits are cheap and easy.
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# ¿ Sep 20, 2022 00:51 |
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2024 09:30 |
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I love my previous-owner for exclusively installing Delta fixtures that share a cartridge that I can buy in bulk packs at Lowes. I don't love that I have to replace a different one every month.
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# ¿ Sep 26, 2022 01:08 |