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GoonyMcGoonface
Sep 11, 2001

Friends don't left friends do ECB
Dinosaur Gum
Hello great sages of all that is wet and dry!

I come to you with a problem that makes no sense to me, but is probably pretty obvious to you.

My shower has a strange banging noise that happens only when the water is midway between hot and cold. At the extremes, no banging. In the middle, it makes a horrible banging noise that sounds like water hammer. The pipes literally shake in the wall as well.

I did some reading that indicated it can be a problem with the mixing valve, so I took that out and checked it. It seems fine to me, and reinstalling it didn't fix anything.

A video demonstration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-SfIzkbSyU

Edit: Oh gently caress, I'm one of those assholes who records in vertical. :commissar:

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GoonyMcGoonface
Sep 11, 2001

Friends don't left friends do ECB
Dinosaur Gum

Metal Geir Skogul posted:

Hell yes gold fixtures!

:c00lbert:

Metal Geir Skogul posted:

How much is a new mixing valve? Or do you have any water hammer arrestors in the house that may be old?

I don't think I have any water hammer arrestors in the house. But this same thing doesn't happen in the other bathrooms -- not even the one that's on the same floor, right down the hall. There might be a really quiet version of the same thing, but... it's nowhere near the same.

Is this the sort of thing I should just... get an actual plumber for?

GoonyMcGoonface
Sep 11, 2001

Friends don't left friends do ECB
Dinosaur Gum

GWBBQ posted:

Turn off your water at the meter, open every faucet in the house with shower handles set to the middle, and once it's completely drained out of the lowest faucet, turn it back on and close each one in order from lowest to highest.

No joy. I did notice something while doing so, though, and that is that running the sink in the room with the problem makes the pipe banging much less audible. The sink water is pulsing though.

Edit: When I went and took a shower this morning, I realized the banging was completely gone! Maybe the invocation ritual human sacrifice fix took time to work.

Thanks so much!

GoonyMcGoonface fucked around with this message at 14:13 on Apr 5, 2018

GoonyMcGoonface
Sep 11, 2001

Friends don't left friends do ECB
Dinosaur Gum
My sink broke recently (shattered straight through the porcelain when someone dropped a toothbrush holder on it). Because I live with people who are at high risk and have not yet been vaccinated, I decided to try and replace the sink myself. Yes, that was my first mistake.

After much huffing and puffing, I've managed to get the sink mounted, new clips attached to the counter, and the drain installed -- only to find that the drain location is a good four inches back from where it was on the previous sink, and the tailpipe of the drain is basically humping the edge of the pipe to the wall -- no way for me to fit the p trap back in.

The stuff to the wall is all PVC that's been cemented together, so I'm at a bit of a loss as what I should do. I guess theoretically I could cut it somehow and try and fit a new p trap in, but I need guidance from people who actually have a loving clue what they're doing.

Behold, a collage of my ineptitude:

https://imgur.com/a/vHmeRM4

GoonyMcGoonface
Sep 11, 2001

Friends don't left friends do ECB
Dinosaur Gum

PainterofCrap posted:

I would cut it right up against that glued coupler - the back side of it. Then, glue on a female-threaded coupler, because you're out of pipe with the next thing that's glued onto that stub, and you never know what the next guy (which may be you in a few years) will have to deal with next. Then add a threaded male coupler to complete the union. That will, hopefully, give you enough space for a trap.

You could also try adding a lateral 90 or 45 elbow after the union, but you'd have to hack out more shelf, there to make room for the offset.

Measure it out first with various combinations of PVC.

If all else fails, you may have to open the wall, or replace the sink. I assume we're looking at the inside of a hacked-up vanity?

I think that makes sense. I'll go to the local hardware store and procure a variety of PVC to try and make it fit. The distance to the front of the connector is a bit small based on what Blindeye said, but on the back I might be able to fit it in.

Honestly, if it's something that needs the wall to get opened up, I'm just going to get an actual plumber to come in. At that point, I'd be worried about somehow getting out of code and/or massively loving up the entire house's plumbing.

GoonyMcGoonface
Sep 11, 2001

Friends don't left friends do ECB
Dinosaur Gum

PainterofCrap posted:

I would cut it right up against that glued coupler - the back side of it. Then, glue on a female-threaded coupler, because you're out of pipe with the next thing that's glued onto that stub, and you never know what the next guy (which may be you in a few years) will have to deal with next. Then add a threaded male coupler to complete the union. That will, hopefully, give you enough space for a trap.

I feel like a crazy person. For some reason, Home Depot only seems to have sink wall tubes in polypropylene, not in PVC, which needs some kind of fusion melt-mold thing (?!). What's the name of the bend that I need to go from straight wall pipe to j tube thing?

MS paint up in this bitch:



Blue is this thing, red is this fucker, purple is the j thing, and the closest I found to green is this but it's PP instead of PVC so that won't work.

There's some weird mushroom thing on the end of the "wall tube", so I assume I can't just stick any old rando 90 degree pipe fitting in there and have it work.

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GoonyMcGoonface
Sep 11, 2001

Friends don't left friends do ECB
Dinosaur Gum

PainterofCrap posted:

They do sell PVC trap sets, but you will need a compression/slip joint eventually, at the sink drain tailpiece.

I think the J tube I linked already has a slip joint? Bullnose.

Is the other end just a normal NPT connection? Because then I could just get a regular ol' 90 degree PVC joint with a male end to screw it into.

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