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BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.

Tolerances are for people who canít hold their booze.

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honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009



DrChu posted:



Before driving I also removed the clutch assist spring:

Letting out the clutch pedal has always felt bad. I know in other cars people complain about clutch delay valves which would cause too much slip, but this felt the opposite. I think the spring mostly assists in pushing the pedal down, but it seems to have a snap-back effect as well. With the spring off letting the clutch out feels much better, at a cost of being noticeably harder to push in. I may try the MTEC spring Minto Took mentioned earlier as a middle ground. That little e-clip is a pain to deal with though, and my hand is scraped up from all the sharp edges up there.

I just installed that mtec spring on mine this morning. It's perfect. I get plenty of feedback on the clutch engaging through my foot, the pedal is plenty light, and there's no slop at the top.

DrChu
May 14, 2002



honda whisperer posted:

I just installed that mtec spring on mine this morning. It's perfect. I get plenty of feedback on the clutch engaging through my foot, the pedal is plenty light, and there's no slop at the top.

I ended up ordering one a couple days ago since FTSpeed is having a sale. Having no spring in there has been better than stock, but itís a lot more effort. Hopefully Iíll get it and be able to install next weekend.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

C-Bangin' it



Granted I haven't had a MT car for a while but what is the reasoning?

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007



Most manuals have dual mass flywheels at this point which tend to have a poo poo pedal feel. Or overpowered pedal springs. Or both.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009



Brzs/ft86s etc have a helper spring to push down the clutch pedal in the pedal assembly. It also seems to slow or mess with letting the clutch out. Good if you're bad at manuals since it will help you not stall it but bad if you know what you're doing since it numbs it and makes engagement based on position and speed, instead of just position.

The aftermarket one is a much much weaker spring.

I've had this car for 3 years and today was the first time I didn't have a wtf moment letting the clutch out.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.

Megamarm

Suburban Dad posted:

Most manuals have dual mass flywheels at this point which tend to have a poo poo pedal feel. Or overpowered pedal springs. Or both.

and, additionally, a flow restrictor in the clutch slave cylinder to control pressure plate engagement speed

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017



The weirdest clutch I ever had under my foot was a manual Ferrari F360 and it felt like the clutch actuation could not keep up at all with the speed at which the engine was willing to change revs when you went into the upper power band.

It was also the hardest clutch I remember.

The engagement point was so far up the travel though that it didn't feel necessary to fully push down the pedal and you could just shift it at half the travel. Kinda what a manual truck feels like where at the end of the travel you have the transmission brake so you never depress it fully unless you come to a full stop.

Loved the open gated shift pattern though. Very satisfying clunk.

Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 22:42 on May 25, 2020

monsterzero
May 12, 2002
I HAVE POKED YOU IN THE EYE... WITH DEMOCRACY!

Lipstick Apathy

Safety check on the ol' towpig GMT800. Nothing new leaking, everything now attached securely. That rattle I've been hearing from the back might have been the 7-pin bracket that was held in place by gravity. Now it's got a nylock and should stay put.

I also replaced 4 of six of the LED 194 bulb replacements I added a while ago. Good thing it was a cheap bag of ebay crap so I had the spares handy.

Achtane
Apr 2, 2008


Cleaned/rewired the grounds on the Hardbody and now my lights work, wipers aren't stuck at 30% normal speed and my hazard switch doesn't cause the coolant gauge to freak out, yay!
Also replaced one of the fuel evap lines.
I let the truck run more than a few minutes for the first time and was freaked out to see whitish puffs coming from the exhaust. It didn't smell sweet and there's no milkshake gunk on the radiator cap/oil cap/dipstick. Maybe it was condensation in the pipes from having sat for who knows how long? It finally went away after about 10 minutes.

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


BlackMK4 posted:

and, additionally, a flow restrictor in the clutch slave cylinder to control pressure plate engagement speed

My to do list for my 335i is to remove the clutch delay valve (also replace the DMFW/clutch). The clutch feel is definitely weird and does have this very definite delay to it that is probably great for stop and go city traffic, but really just hampers things if you are looking to row more aggressively.

chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011



Combat Theory posted:

The weirdest clutch I ever had under my foot was a manual Ferrari F360 and it felt like the clutch actuation could not keep up at all with the speed at which the engine was willing to change revs when you went into the upper power band.

It was also the hardest clutch I remember.

The engagement point was so far up the travel though that it didn't feel necessary to fully push down the pedal and you could just shift it at half the travel. Kinda what a manual truck feels like where at the end of the travel you have the transmission brake so you never depress it fully unless you come to a full stop.

Loved the open gated shift pattern though. Very satisfying clunk.

Too light is weird, too. My metro has such a light clutch it's like stepping in a bucket of cotton candy.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.

Ok so how do I get a hose clamp over this?



You donít



Disc brake kit acts as axel retainers so have to wait for my rear control arms and pumpkin to arrive before I fit the entire kit but I replaced all the lines so now all the brake lines and hoses are brand new.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Unthread the hose clamp all the way, open it, slide it around the tube and close it back down. Or bring it to me and I'll weld that tab on instead of hose clamping it down for like, one beer or a bad joke, especially if I've already got the welder out that day.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.

I though about unwinding it but it has tabs to stop it fully unwinding which is why I was confused they would send it. I assume they think I can bend it over the end of the housing but there is the suspension mounts in the way. Once I have the rest of it to put together I will probably weld it in.

STR
May 12, 2006

I thought I was a nice jester


kastein posted:

It's 6 nuts and one bolt to drop the entire ej25 NA exhaust as a unit. Why are you bothering to try doing it in-car?

Because I didn't know better. I was in a hurry to get rid of the CEL and complete a drive cycle. Still got it done in an hour and a half (a good bit of that was dealing with getting it unplugged without breaking the connector, then routing the wire back up and getting the plug to finally click back in) when a shop said book time was 2 hours.

I don't know if the exhaust has ever been off of this shitbox either. With my luck I would have snapped every fastener.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


The studs at the cylinder head are remarkably hard to break. Even up here I've never broken one, normally either the stainless nuts just spin right off, or they stick to the stud and thread it out, or worst case strip the threads in the aluminum head, which means it's now a 5 minute task to clear it out with a drill and helicoil it (m10x1.25 kit is on the shelf at AutoZone.)

That connector was annoying the first time but at this point I've got so much practice (between my exhaust falling apart early and often and my engine needing replacement so many times) I can unplug them one handed blind. If you hold it right and put your thumbnail under the retention clip you can kinda flip it upward while applying tension and it'll just pop apart.

Humbug
Dec 3, 2006
Bogus

I did an oil change on my moms w169 Mercedes A-class, sice the cost of a service is rapidly approaching the value of the car. It was easily the best car oil change experience i've had. Didn't even need to jack up the car.

Crack loose the top mounted filter and stick the extractor in the dipstick hole. By the time the oil had extracted, the filter was dry and could be removed with no mess. The filter cap had the torque spec printed on. The filler neck was easily accessable and took a normal funnel. The oil capacity was 5 litres flat, leaving me with no akward leftover oil.

If Mercedes can make it that easy in such a tightly packaged car, why is it such an ordeal in many other cars?

chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011



Humbug posted:

I did an oil change on my moms w169 Mercedes A-class, sice the cost of a service is rapidly approaching the value of the car. It was easily the best car oil change experience i've had. Didn't even need to jack up the car.

Crack loose the top mounted filter and stick the extractor in the dipstick hole. By the time the oil had extracted, the filter was dry and could be removed with no mess. The filter cap had the torque spec printed on. The filler neck was easily accessable and took a normal funnel. The oil capacity was 5 litres flat, leaving me with no akward leftover oil.

If Mercedes can make it that easy in such a tightly packaged car, why is it such an ordeal in many other cars?

One of my biggest gripes is not putting an access hole in skid plates for the oil filter. It would be possible to remove the oil filter on my sequoia without removing the factory skid plate, but oil would drain all over it and make a gigantic mess, not to mention drip oil in the driveway for the next week afterwards. WHY MAKE IT SUCH A PAIN?!??
It just means lovely oil lube places either make a mess or remove the skid plate and throw it away.
Also, if you manage in hitting the oil pan in that car on a rock, you've messed up BAD.

My old 300td with the om617 is similar levels of easy. I don't have an oil extractor so I just drive it up on ramps to get the drain plug, but just as easy.

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.

Grimey Drawer

chrisgt posted:

Also, if you manage in hitting the oil pan in that car on a rock, you've messed up BAD.

It's there for aerodynamic reasons, not as protection.

STR
May 12, 2006

I thought I was a nice jester


Humbug posted:

I did an oil change on my moms w169 Mercedes A-class, sice the cost of a service is rapidly approaching the value of the car. It was easily the best car oil change experience i've had. Didn't even need to jack up the car.

Crack loose the top mounted filter and stick the extractor in the dipstick hole. By the time the oil had extracted, the filter was dry and could be removed with no mess. The filter cap had the torque spec printed on. The filler neck was easily accessable and took a normal funnel. The oil capacity was 5 litres flat, leaving me with no akward leftover oil.

If Mercedes can make it that easy in such a tightly packaged car, why is it such an ordeal in many other cars?

GM did something similarly nice on the first gen Ecotecs. 5 quarts (it has a typical pan drain plug, but accessible without lifting if you just turn the wheels hard right when you park it), top mounted filter cartridge. If you had the supercharged version it was a lot harder to change the filter.

When I did my first (... only, so far) oil change on Brokeback, the first thing I did was rip off the plastic poo poo. The front crank seal leaks, the rear crank seal leaks... that poo poo was NASTY. And it all has to come off to get to the oil filter anyway.


kastein posted:

The studs at the cylinder head are remarkably hard to break. Even up here I've never broken one, normally either the stainless nuts just spin right off, or they stick to the stud and thread it out, or worst case strip the threads in the aluminum head, which means it's now a 5 minute task to clear it out with a drill and helicoil it (m10x1.25 kit is on the shelf at AutoZone.)

That connector was annoying the first time but at this point I've got so much practice (between my exhaust falling apart early and often and my engine needing replacement so many times) I can unplug them one handed blind. If you hold it right and put your thumbnail under the retention clip you can kinda flip it upward while applying tension and it'll just pop apart.

Yeah I wound up breaking the clip on the connector, it was obvious it'd never been apart. And at 18 years old... it didn't want to come apart easily. It has a few zip ties holding the connectors together now.

Good to know about the exhaust, though my assortment of tools at the moment is extremely limited. Almost everything is in storage while roommate and I decide what to do - he's on month to month on this duplex, and we're hoping to move to a nicer place sometime soon (this neighborhood isn't... great, and the landlord isn't exactly responsive to issues). Problem is he caught a felony (24 years ago), so options are a little more limited, even though it happened when he was 16 (non-violent, but hosed up his ~3 year probation right when he turned 18, so spent a year in state prison). I may wind up going back out on my own, depends how much my raise is next month.

e: I've known him for over 20 years, before anyone tells me to - he was one of the first people I met when I moved to DFW ages ago.

STR fucked around with this message at 15:22 on May 30, 2020

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.



Anyone need and bodywork done?

chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011



Nidhg00670000 posted:

It's there for aerodynamic reasons, not as protection.

Ahh, that makes sense. Didn't make that connection because it's from an era where they made those out of metal not plastic...

Achtane
Apr 2, 2008


The most user friendly oil filter I've ever seen was on a Baja package Tacoma. The filter is at engine level, upside down, attached to a funnel shaped thing.

I was almost moved to tears.

Panty Saluter
Jan 17, 2004

Making learning fun!


Toyota seems to have some consideration for LOF jockeys. The filter location on the 91 Tercel I had was dead simple to change. Even when it's in the car you have plenty of space to reach in and grab it

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes



Fun Shoe

Got BC Racing coilovers for my Chrysler 300C. Got the back done, pulled the front wheel off, and realized they sent me the fronts for an AWD. Gonna have to contact them on Monday and get it corrected.

opengl128
Sep 16, 2010



Panty Saluter posted:

Toyota seems to have some consideration for LOF jockeys. The filter location on the 91 Tercel I had was dead simple to change. Even when it's in the car you have plenty of space to reach in and grab it



A) I've never seen such a clean 3E-E
B) I still managed to burn myself on the manifold more than once

e: found a picture of mine. Yes I was a ricer in high school what of it

opengl128 fucked around with this message at 15:46 on May 31, 2020

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011



Can confirm both 2JZ and 7M oil filter locations are easy enough to grab from the top of the engine bay. Recently did an oil change on a Honda B20A and that loving thing is like a ninja, you can locate it underneath the car one minute and then it disappears again if you move to grab a tool or whatever. It sits right under the intake between the engine and the firewall and you have to be in a particular spot to see it, let alone grab it. Impossible not to get oil dribbling onto everything below it (including the exhaust).

Panty Saluter
Jan 17, 2004

Making learning fun!


opengl128 posted:

A) I've never seen such a clean 3E-E
B) I still managed to burn myself on the manifold more than once

e: found a picture of mine. Yes I was a ricer in high school what of it



http://www.ritalie.com/tercel/engine.htm

I lifted it from a Turbo Tercel project site. It's very unusual to not see them caked with the gallons of oil they piss everywhere

Also holy poo poo, I had the same strut brace. It made a huge difference for that soft-rear end chassis

opengl128
Sep 16, 2010



Panty Saluter posted:

Also holy poo poo, I had the same strut brace. It made a huge difference for that soft-rear end chassis

Ha! Yes, it did. But by far the biggest improvement was putting 15x7 wheels on it. Felt like a different car compared to the lol 13" wheels it came with.

I had a Paseo sway bar that I never got around to installing too (actually I think it's still in my parents' basement somewhere).

That car was an econoturd but I loved it. Put in Paseo seats, steering wheel, and cluster (w/ tach, essential with my 3 speed auto lol) too.

Panty Saluter
Jan 17, 2004

Making learning fun!


Mine did have the 4 speed manual (!), which probably was no faster. Always wanted to do a Starlet Turbo swap, which was dirt rear end cheap around 2000. I was broke as a joke at the time though.

Also 15 x 7s must have been phenomenal on that car. Prolly killed the 0-60 though

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007



Those are decent to access but it's game changing when they're totally vertical in the engine bay so you don't even have to clean up drips.

opengl128
Sep 16, 2010



Panty Saluter posted:

Mine did have the 4 speed manual (!), which probably was no faster. Always wanted to do a Starlet Turbo swap, which was dirt rear end cheap around 2000. I was broke as a joke at the time though.

Also 15 x 7s must have been phenomenal on that car. Prolly killed the 0-60 though

I talked to the guy in FL who was doing those 4E-FTE swaps, but could never afford it either. Now I've been looking at importing a Starlet haha.

STR
May 12, 2006

I thought I was a nice jester


Olympic Mathlete posted:

Can confirm both 2JZ and 7M oil filter locations are easy enough to grab from the top of the engine bay. Recently did an oil change on a Honda B20A and that loving thing is like a ninja, you can locate it underneath the car one minute and then it disappears again if you move to grab a tool or whatever. It sits right under the intake between the engine and the firewall and you have to be in a particular spot to see it, let alone grab it. Impossible not to get oil dribbling onto everything below it (including the exhaust).

It's in the same spot on most Honda engines of that era. I didn't even bother climbing under my Civics (D16) or my Integra (B18A) to pull the filter, just reached under the intake and grabbed it. One of the few times I actually did climb under the Civic to do an oil change, I got a CEL pretty quickly after startup for the knock sensor. Turns out the fucker is right by the filter and the wire gets knocked off entirely too easily.

1MZ-FE filters are similarly easy to get to as the Tercel motor, so long as you don't mind 2nd degree burns from the front exhaust manifold.

chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011



Put the new tires on my restored metro (i have mental problems)...

Minto Took
Dec 4, 2002



Fun Shoe

I'm digging the whitewalls.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

Yep. Whitewalls were clearly the correct choice here.

Panty Saluter
Jan 17, 2004

Making learning fun!


chrisgt posted:

Put the new tires on my restored metro (i have mental problems)...


Truly a goon after my own heart

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

chrisgt posted:

Put the new tires on my restored metro (i have mental problems)...


Good things to come out of 2020.
Going back to space.
This metro.

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KakerMix
Apr 8, 2004

8.2 M.P.G.


Top Cop

chrisgt posted:

Put the new tires on my restored metro (i have mental problems)...


I see no mental problems in the slightest.


Today I swapped out an obnoxious full-screen double-din JDM headunit out of the Land Cruiser that, despite being in Japanese, was also just an obtuse piece of garbage. No bluetooth, no AUX in, and no way to dim or shut off the display which means at night, full-bright city. Changed it for a Clarion Marine single-din unit with everything I want and nothing else. Plus, you can turn the display completely off just by holding the big knob in for a second.



Also replaced that center surround, added that little plastic pocket under the head unit, and replaced the sun visors because the other ones were fuuuucked.





Adjusted the AC idle (a 10 mm wrench and 2~ minutes is all you need) and now I don't think there is much else I'll do to it before we put it up for sale. After doing the reverse-wash on the badges to make them white on black the only other thing I'd want to do would be to paint the wheels themselves white, but the cost and effort for something I don't plan on keeping is too much.


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