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kastein posted:A lot of the engines I work on don't have a magnetic drain plug, though I certainly would prefer a magnetic one for all the reasons given. I'm mostly suspicious of drain valves like that because I don't want to smack them on something off-road or road debris on the highway or something. It is in the perfect spot on the Sierra to me, tucked in behind that cross member and the sway bar is right behind it too. The plug was also in a good low point to drain. I didn't consider the metal shavings, I'm hoping the filter is picking those up and the rest is draining in suspension. Even with just the plug, I always feel like the oil drains forever, there's no end to it, just little drips for longer than I'm willing to wait. I wonder too if there are any little shelves and passages that will not drain at all. Next time around I'll send the oil off for analysis and let yall know. See you in like.. 8 months.
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Jul 27, 2020 04:32
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None of my vehicles have magnetic drain plugs. I wish I had a dime for every online argument I've read about Fumoto oil drain valves. I could probably afford a magnetic drain plug.
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Jul 27, 2020 04:46
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Motronic posted:Even in the best case engine for this, I'm still a bit concerned about the fact that these valves seem to be proud of the oil pan (internally) at least slightly when installed. So you're not getting all the oil out, and certainly not getting out all of the settled ferrous or non-ferrous schmoo unless it's just the right geometry pan (the kinds that have a small sump on a corner where the plug is would be the best case I'd assume). The Honda and LS1 pans in question have the drainplug parallel to the ground. The Honda had it aimed straight back, the LS1 has it aimed at the driver's side frame rail. In those situations you're talking about whatever is in the depth of oil equal to the thickness of one wall of the valve. Otherwise, yeah, that's another strike against me putting one in the Canyon. I still wish I could because that oil splashes hard (and it's black as coal, goddamn) but it's a worst of all worlds scenario there. Of course, given that the oil filter is up top, maybe next time I should see about using my fluid extractor on it instead and do the whole thing underhood.
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Jul 27, 2020 04:53
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Motronic posted:Do all of you Fumoto havers or wanters not care about the fact that a drain plug is a magnet that takes shavings out of the oil and requires you to remove it and wipe it off to perform that function? Ah y'see I solved that problem by sticking a rare earth magnet to the point next to my Fumoto on the pan. Just in case. *edit: yes it's removable for oil change time.
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Jul 27, 2020 11:52
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My drain plug is plastic and I was fully expecting the worst because justfordthings, but it has been great so far. Comes out by hand with no tools, (has a 3/8 drive if you need it though) and no risk of overtightening since it snaps into place with a quarter turn.
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Jul 27, 2020 14:50
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opengl128 posted:My drain plug is plastic and I was fully expecting the worst because justfordthings, but it has been great so far. Comes out by hand with no tools, (has a 3/8 drive if you need it though) and no risk of overtightening since it snaps into place with a quarter turn. witchcraft
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Jul 27, 2020 15:00
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opengl128 posted:My drain plug is plastic and I was fully expecting the worst because justfordthings, but it has been great so far. Comes out by hand with no tools, (has a 3/8 drive if you need it though) and no risk of overtightening since it snaps into place with a quarter turn.
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Jul 27, 2020 15:29
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Rhyno posted:witchcraft  I think I'd want a spare on hand, but I've had poor luck with aging plastics
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Jul 27, 2020 16:13
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Cage posted:This is on the mustang?? Cool! Yeah, I think they put it in the new F-150's also. Also I agree a spare is probably a really good idea.
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Jul 27, 2020 16:23
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Most oil pans are  composite (plastic) now so you get plastic drain plugs. I had one on my GTI that was fine and was meant to be replaced with every change. Get with the times. 
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Jul 27, 2020 17:35
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Yea, What's the replacement cost on one of those? I'd probably be anal an just pop a new one in each oil change. Or at least once a year.
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Jul 27, 2020 17:42
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2020, year of the disposable butt plug
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Jul 27, 2020 18:08
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Motronic posted:This sounds like theoretical knowledge, and it's not clear to me how you think it matters that oil passes through mostly non-ferrous parts (this is also completely wrong to absurdly different degrees depending on the motor). Anyone who has spent any amount of time changing oil knows different. There is almost ALWAYS something on the plug in anything of any age. Even when it gets to "concerning" levels you're looking at another who knows how many 10s of thousands of miles the motor can still go. Literally nothing I have has a magnetic drain plug on the engine oil. Transmission and diff, yes, but not engine oil. As others have stated, I would only use the valve on a pan with a drain on the side, though. My Cutlass has it on the bottom, and I've manage the tear even the factory plug out when I had the thing ultra-low (3" of clearance at the crossmember) catching the plug on a seam between concrete and asphalt. Hit the seam and compressed the suspension at the same time, whoops! Caught the plug enough to crack the pan at the weld for the bung. The puddle under the car when I came back to the car after work was unamusing. Suburban Dad posted:Most oil pans are Yeah, the intake on my Crown Vic is plastic, too. Guess what happened to the heater hose nipple on it? engine compartment bukkake geyser Removed the Subaru's starter, disassembled, and cleaned all contacts inside and out. Added grease to gear case and reassembled. Cleaned all terminals at or near battery. Seems to be starting OK, and volts are a bit better on the gauge, so may have just been dirty terminals to begin with.       Also cleaned all the plastics under the hood:  Then I changed the transmission filter. First: gently caress Subaru for putting it here, and not providing an access hatch:    But props for using an external spin-on filter. Appears to be 133K mile original:  Wix replacement:  Also gently caress Subaru for using two of these to hold the inner fender in:  Fortunately, I have spares:  Had to add a few pints of fluid lost with the old filter, but no leaks or issues. Also welded in the other brace on my RX-7:  And media blasted two more hinges:   (other one is still in the blasting cabinet.) Once the brace was in, I used the Eastwood chassis spray with the 360-degree nozzle tube to coat the inside of the welded areas. Hopefully never any rust again.
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Jul 28, 2020 00:24
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I submit people with stock drain plugs all take a pic with their stock plug magnetically interact with a ferrous object?
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Jul 28, 2020 00:51
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Darchangel posted:Fortunately, I have spares: I didn't know there were just sets of those fuckers. I've been too lazy to track down the specific ones I needed and just removed the under tray from my car since it was barely holding on. I might get that thing back on this weekend. Thanks!
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Jul 28, 2020 03:51
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Wasabi the J posted:I submit people with stock drain plugs all take a pic with their stock plug magnetically interact with a ferrous object? Does it count if it’s been on my car for over 10 years and feels stock by now? As a side note, I have had to clean it off every time. Always a little bit of something. Once was an oil squirter!
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Jul 28, 2020 04:02
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Galler posted:I didn't know there were just sets of those fuckers. I've been too lazy to track down the specific ones I needed and just removed the under tray from my car since it was barely holding on. I might get that thing back on this weekend. Thanks! eBay/Amazon. I love assortments like that. I've got one for those little doohickeys that secure lock and door handle rods as well.
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Jul 28, 2020 20:05
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I didn't really think it'd happen, but something showed up in the mail today. It weighs about 5lb. 
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Jul 31, 2020 03:49
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^ this man with all the downforce. That looks a really well made bit of kit.
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Aug 1, 2020 13:12
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thats a nice looking airfoil
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Aug 1, 2020 15:25
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pretty light for a plow blade, hope it holds up
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Aug 1, 2020 19:03
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Darchangel posted:Fortunately, I have spares: I N E E D T H I S
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Aug 1, 2020 21:43
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90s Solo Cup posted:I N E E D T H I S Everyone does. I have one too. It rules.
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Aug 1, 2020 21:49
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90s Solo Cup posted:I N E E D T H I S Amazon. Got tired of trying to buy the right one. Assortments rule, and are really cheap for what you get. If you need, I should be able to find the specific url in my purchase history. It’s only been about a year. Edit: Well, crap. I can’t find it. May have been eBay. Well, here’s the door lock rod clip assortment, while I’m at it: Swordfish 60580 Import Door Lock... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3191FG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share There are panel clips in the related. Edit 2: yeah, it was eBay. Exact auction no longer exists, but was all of $16.99. Here’s the description of you want to search for similar, refine as needed: “299Pcs Car Body Plastic Push Pin Rivet Fasteners Trim Moulding Clip Screwdriver” Darchangel fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Aug 2, 2020 |
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Aug 2, 2020 01:31
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I went with this set. I haven't gotten around to using any of them but I think they're fine. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z83X5CD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Aug 2, 2020 02:35
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I'm pretty sure that if I (almost physically) didn't stop myself, I'd have a room full off assortments of poo poo like that. There is something extremely compelling about kits like that.
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Aug 2, 2020 11:27
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I got new wheels and tires + wax.  315s in the back because BEEFY 
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Aug 2, 2020 16:55
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Galler posted:I went with this set. I haven't gotten around to using any of them but I think they're fine. Oh, that's a nice assortment! Throwing that on the list for next time. I bought a bunch of those releasable zip-ties with the pin for hole mount a while back to replace all the ones that broke when I disassembled my RX-7 MrOnBicycle posted:I'm pretty sure that if I (almost physically) didn't stop myself, I'd have a room full off assortments of poo poo like that. There is something extremely compelling about kits like that. It's nice to have all the things on hand, especially when you have no idea what might break, or even what's on the vehicle to start with. I have assortments for the panel fasteners, door lock rod clips, P-clips (cable and tube mounts), o-rings, snap rings, cotter pins, and e-clips, among others. Chinatown posted:I got new wheels and tires + wax. Looks boss. Cross post from the chat thread: I finally steeled myself to change out the cam cover gaskets and spark plugs in our Outback yesterday. gently caress Subaru engineers, sideways, with a rake, on fire. I have never seen so many examples of bolts set in such a way as to make a standard socket too short, yet no room for a deep socket. And what in the hell made them think that tapering the frame rails inward as they move toward the firewall was a good idea? Did they not know what engine they were going to put in the car? Keep them straight and parallel until past the engine, fools. YT videos were useful - no unexpected gotchas, and heeded advice to jack the engine a couple inches, which was effective (on that note, good job on putting the exhaust *exactly* in line with the engine mount stud, you idiots...) The only thing that went wrong was that the PCV line cracked and leaked once I got it started again, which added another 45 minutes to the procedure, when it was already 11:15. Should have dragged myself out of bed before noon, and got started earlier, I guess. Would have gone faster, but I can't put greasy, oily stuff back, and spent the time to clean everything up. Went faster once I remembered that I had a power washer I could use, rather than just scrubbing in the utility sink. Leaky and nasty:    Huh. Didn't get a before pic of the passenger side top. It wasn't near as messy, as can be seen from the underneath photos. edit: did take a passenger before pic:  Clean and sealed, with fresh spark plugs:    ....aaaaaand also didn't take and "after" underneath photo of the passenger side. It was very nice to power wash all the crud off of everything, particularly the chassis and underneath, and also the undertray. It started right up after a little stumbling. Relearning from the battery being disconnected, and presumably the extra air from the cracked PCV hose. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Aug 3, 2020 |
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Aug 3, 2020 16:41
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Swapped the belts/tensioner/idler on my 2013 FoST today. Couldn't see a date on the main belt but the AC belt was a FoMoCo dated 08/2012 so both were original I'm sure. Weren't in bad shape other than being stretched vs the new belts, though. I used the Gates kit, and I wasn't real happy about the tensioner not matching OEM-  I was about to reuse the OEM tensioner, but I looked up the p/n and some sites show the Motorcraft version with only 2 bolts as well? So maybe it has been superceded? Anyway my original didn't have as much tension as the new one, so I just went ahead and used the Gates version. If I change my mind, it's all of 5 minutes to swap out. I also used the Gates tool to install the AC stretch belt. It removed the old one as well with a little extra help from a screwdriver. The tool itself is nice but the bolt doesn't actually fit to the inside of the crank pulley, or to the holes in the lip of the pulley or anything to hold it in place like the instructions say..  Dunno if the picture shows it well, but the tool is kicked out with the bolt in it. I just removed the bolt and fed the tool and belt around the pulley by hand, it was a minor annoyance and I pinched my finger when a piston must have rounded a compression stroke and it suddenly rotated 90° without input. Tl,dr - I don't really recommend the Gates accessory pulley kit, or stretch belt tool for the FoST.
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Aug 3, 2020 16:50
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Chinatown posted:I got new wheels and tires + wax. That looks great. Say what you will about Chrysler but at least they are one of the last embracing absurd RWD V8 cars.
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Aug 3, 2020 17:27
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Yeah I got a motor mount for my Giulietta I used to own. OEM part, was supposed to be the new one that superseded the old etc. Had to grind down part of it in order for it to fit.
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Aug 3, 2020 17:52
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MrOnBicycle posted:Yeah I got a motor mount for my Giulietta I used to own. OEM part, was supposed to be the new one that superseded the old etc. Had to grind down part of it in order for it to fit. Oh, that's just Italian things, right? 
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Aug 3, 2020 18:03
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Chinatown posted:I got new wheels and tires + wax.  I love the way late model Chargers and Challengers look. I got a bit of a shock today when my boss pulled up in a later model Charger - he normally drives a CVPI (with all the antennas still on it, plus a couple of strobes still on the license plate frame, super dark tint, etc.. honestly wondering how often he gets hassled). His CVPI is a detective model, so aside from antennas and strobes, and limo tint, it looks like your grandpa's blue Crown Vic, right down to the chrome wheels (he claims well under 100k miles on it). Asked him about the Charger, it's just a base model, but the base is still a lot quicker than plenty of other cars (and still RWD). Asked him about the common CVPI issues (slow night, I was already done and clocked out), he'd already run into all of the ones I knew of (intake manifold coolant crossover issue [replaced with Dorman], constant coil failures until he got a complete set of OEM coils, etc).
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Aug 3, 2020 18:37
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opengl128 posted:That looks great. Say what you will about Chrysler but at least they are one of the last embracing absurd RWD V8 cars. Its a great daily driver in Eco Mode, mushy throttle and everything just to put-put to the grocery store or in traffic. Then you hit the Sport/Track button and 
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Aug 4, 2020 03:14
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"What did the hurricane/tropical storm do to your (daughter's) ride yesterday?" 
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Aug 5, 2020 19:33
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How to tell someone gives zero fucks about oil changes, starter edition. Step 1: Store brand oil still probably better than that Carquest conventional jug it got 7k ago  Step 2: mixed weighs of store brand oil, because I work for a grocery store, not a parts store - you get what's on the shelf.  Step 3: FRAM  filter that doesn't even fit properly, it's a lot bigger. Isn't leaking, so fuckin send it. (THANKS WALMART ELECTRONIC OIL FILTER SELECTOR GUIDE THINGY). I'm surprised it seals, I'll (eventually) get the right filter for it.
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Aug 6, 2020 02:25
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It's still all way better than not changing the oil.
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Aug 6, 2020 02:29
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Truth. This is only the second time I've changed the oil on it. I bought it in October. I put Carquest conventional high mileage in it and a Purolator filter on nearly 7k miles ago. I've had the new oil for 2 months, filter for almost as long. The oil absolutely loving REEKED of gas and looked like it was coming out of a diesel (pitch black), but no glitter. And at startup - hot or cold, even an immediate restart after shutdown since I bought it, the oil light stayed on for a couple of seconds before flickering a couple of times and going off. It's off by the time it fired since the oil change, at least while warm. I think that's partly because the improper Fram filter that's on it now simply flows a lot more oil. The store brand oil is a Warren synthetic blend that's been private labeled for my employer.  Guess we'll see how it holds up. I got it while our employee discount was bumped to 25% instead of our usual 10% (only on store brands), so I paid something silly like $1.50 per quart.I'm kinda scared to measure how much came out - it took less than 30 seconds to completely drain, though it does have a bigass 17mm drain plug instead of the typical 12mm or 14mm. My 8 qt drain pan is about half full, so hopefully it was close to the full capacity. I topped it off a little over a month ago with a single quart, which got it almost to the full mark. e: I guess I should add... I dumped some Seafoam into the oil and let it idle a bit before the oil change, so the oil was definitely thinned out a bit from that. Right before I shut it down I dumped some leftover oil into the filler to try and wash some of the Seafoam out of the driver's side valve cover. I'll change it again in a few weeks at most, just to get the rest of the Seafoam out of there. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Aug 6, 2020 |
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Aug 6, 2020 02:44
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Warren oil is also Supertech / Amazon / Kirkland. They're fine.
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Aug 6, 2020 02:59
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kastein posted:Manual trans rebuild is usually pretty easy unless it's a fairly modern one. Autos are made of magic and tiny parts that make it completely not work if you put them in facing the wrong direction or in a spot that looks exactly the same as where they came from but is a half inch away. A half inch is pretty loving gracious. I had a Ram that wouldn't shift just because the solenoid bolts were only finger tight.
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Aug 6, 2020 03:05
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