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Installed a new Rough Country exhaust on the truck a couple of days ago. It looks like the Flowmaster even down to the black tips, but $290 cheaper since it’s basically a knockoff but still full stainless. Ran out of light when installing so I had to put the new tips on today. Worst part of installing the quad tips was the removal of the stock polished ones. They are actually bolted to the bumper instead of the exhaust, and there are four 10mm bolts inside the bumper that you can only turn 1/8 turn at a time with a ratcheting wrench. https://youtu.be/NCtVumoxF48  
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Jun 27, 2020 01:53
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Minto Took posted:How does it sound? I'm thinking of going full HKS. It's not bad, less bassy. At low rpm's its pretty chill and not too droney on the highway if you have the radio on. I like that it's a lot lighter than stock.
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Jun 27, 2020 02:06
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Installed a new Rough Country exhaust on the truck a couple of days ago. It looks like the Flowmaster even down to the black tips, but $290 cheaper since it’s basically a knockoff but still full stainless. You're workin real hard to get me to like that model and it's workin.
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Jun 27, 2020 04:28
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kastein posted:Uhhh the fucks going on with that TRE at the idler arm? It looks like it's about to cause a really bad day. Don't worry, that was just the pre-work picture. I've remediated all of that. Perhaps not surprisingly, the steering did get better after replacing the idler arm.
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Jun 27, 2020 12:51
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StormDrain posted:You're workin real hard to get me to like that model and it's workin. We were prepared to like the Ford more based on previously owning a 2015 F150, but we were honestly not in love with the ten-speed trans or all the chrome, and the interior layout and quality wasn’t as nice for us. My wife also had certain specific requests which would have been tricky to get with the Ford at a reasonable price and without waiting for a special order. The first Silverado we drove was a base package and we really didn’t like that. Cheap cloth, plastic steering wheel, etc. but this is the RST with Z71, leather and a few other packages which really changed the entire feel of the truck. We weren’t originally sold on the silver but once again the blackout package with the black lettering and bow ties really changed the way we felt about the silver.
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Jun 27, 2020 14:23
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 Tuned my new car yesterday. Should have just north of 500hp now.
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Jun 27, 2020 22:29
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I changed the cabin filter on my GMC 3500. I intended to use the extra one from the two pack I received the last time I changed it. Yeah turns out it wasn't extra, the truck has two cabin filters.  
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Jun 27, 2020 23:28
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nadmonk posted:Don't worry, that was just the pre-work picture. I've remediated all of that. Glad to hear, it looks like it didn't have long to live.
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Jun 28, 2020 00:37
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Replaced the all the gas springs on the xc90 and now the hatch and hood stay open, so that's nice.
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Jul 1, 2020 21:51
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PitViper posted:40/300 in an AC system sounds like a blockage somewhere on the high side. Hard to build 300psi of pressure with a bad compressor. STR posted:That sounds more like a clog somewhere, or wayyyyyyyyyyyyyy overcharged. Apparently it was way simpler than that, although I never would have figured it out in a million years. The blend door actuator failed, so the system was never able to flip over to cool. Anyway, I've got nice and frosty ac now.
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Jul 2, 2020 12:38
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taqueso posted:Replaced the all the gas springs on the xc90 and now the hatch and hood stay open, so that's nice. Somehow my original gas struts on my hatch are original, and it still stays open fine. The trim, on the other hand, whacked me in the head when it fell off the other day. PO had it partly held on with duct tape (the PO was a fan of duct tape in general), the rest of the clips finally noped out. Need to hit Autozone or Advance and get new clips so I can get it secured properly. 
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Jul 2, 2020 15:38
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STR posted:Somehow my original gas struts on my hatch are original, and it still stays open fine. I got whacked in the head by a trunk gate once. I replace them by feel nowadays. The few € aren't worth the days of headache.
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Jul 4, 2020 10:55
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The transmission dipstick on the LS430 apparently requires arcane knowledge to read properly, especially under lovely lighting, which is how I managed to overfill it by an entire quart.  I was going to do a drain-and-fill on it anyway, so I took care of that once I realized my fuckup. Fluid was plenty dark, but didn't smell burnt, feel gritty or look sparkly. A cheap pitcher with measurement markings made it that much easier to see exactly how much fluid actually came out and how much to add back in. Combat Theory posted:I got whacked in the head by a trunk gate once. I replace them by feel nowadays. The few € aren't worth the days of headache. Nearly had a digit crushed by a trunk lid with weak struts. I made damned sure to replace those asap.
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Jul 5, 2020 01:08
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Rotated the tires... and definitely did not let it idle in drive on jackstands to see if I could find a bent wheel (been chasing shaking under throttle since I've owned it). No sir, I would never do that. No bent wheels, but my right front hub is definitely hosed (wobbles slightly no matter which wheel is on it) - I know that corner has been hit before, and the entire RF suspension + right headlight is junkyard parts (front bumper also has some damage). Definitely not idling on jackstands also angers the ABS (and probably the center diff). The wheel bearing on the RF has been making sad noises for a lot longer than I'd like to admit, so it'll get a new hub and bearing for that soon. Tiny bit of play pulling the front wheels left and right, but that could just be the play in the steering lock (both sides were pretty much identical), zero up/down play, so balljoints are probably decent. 3 tires are wearing evenly (the RF wasn't, but I had to pull the knuckle to press out the axle last year.. never got it aligned afterwards, inside edge is wearing a bit faster). Shaking is nearly gone under throttle now though, and it's much smoother driving in general. Guessing the tire that was on the front right (now on the rear left) may have some belt separation going?  It LOOKS fine, but the tires are 7 or 8 years old (only about half worn, no visible checking or rot on them, but yeah, they're old lovely low end tires). After I got the wheels back on, but before taking it off the jackstands, I checked the driveshaft. U-joints are good and tight, so at least I know it's the Napa reman axle on the LF that's likely causing the shaking (that one came with the car.. the RF was original, but with split boots, it got a brand new Advance Auto halfshaft...)And of course I've never pulled the rear wheels off since I've owned it. One of the LR lugs was so badly crossthreaded that the wheel was very loose after removing the other 4 - it was just stuck halfway on. Impact couldn't budge it in either direction. Another lug was pretty rough coming off too, threads were pretty hosed on that one... so said gently caress it and twisted it off, knowing I'm gonna be either replacing studs or the hub and bearing anyway. Since it's a 5 lug car, I'm not too terrified of driving on 4 lugs for a few days. So to-do list now is the RF hub/bearing and LR hub/bearing, along with whatever hell is waiting for me inside the drum-in-hat setup (the parking brake works well, but the rear rotors look original or at least very old  - so it might put up a fight). New quick struts have been on the list for a long time. Then an alignment. That's if I don't take the money I'm gonna use for all of that and find another beater. I kinda want to keep this one since everything on it actually works, and it's a pretty nice car aside from the right rear quarter panel being a little crunched by the PO.The insane squeaking from the rear over every bump also disappeared when I took it around the block, I assume from letting the suspension sit at full droop for a bit. The bushings have all seen better days; I suspect once I throw some new springs/struts in the back, getting it back to the original ride height will help a lot with the squeaking. Both rear struts were very oily too (I'm sure age is a major factor, but the rear end is sagging pretty bad too, I'm sure those struts are seeing travel that they're not meant to see), the front ones looked fine. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Jul 5, 2020 |
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Jul 5, 2020 16:46
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Got Line-X'd.    
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Jul 6, 2020 03:22
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Got Line-X'd. What's a ballpark cost for that? I drove around for a while with scrap metal and wore thru the paint because I'm not that smart.
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Jul 6, 2020 03:32
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Got Line-X'd. That was a really nice job. Looks sharp.
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Jul 6, 2020 03:36
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StormDrain posted:What's a ballpark cost for that? I drove around for a while with scrap metal and wore thru the paint because I'm not that smart. I've seen some really well done DIY bedliner jobs with this spray in stuff but honestly I'm in a position now where I can afford it so I just did it. Lifetime warranty and these dudes do it all day long so they know their poo poo. They did a fantastic job and I get a lifetime warranty. I had to remove my tonneau cover before bringing it in but they pulled all the caps and mounts and panels before spraying and remounted when done. Also they pull the tailgate and spray up under the eaves. Motronic posted:That was a really nice job. Looks sharp. Agreed. It looks fantastic.
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Jul 6, 2020 06:48
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Jesus that looks nice. Super clean!
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Jul 6, 2020 08:35
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I replaced the thermostat housing on my Mini Cooper. While I was in there I also fixed some previous owner fuckery with the wiring loom. I am pleased to report that the car is now CEL free which means I can get on to more important matters like spending out suspension upgrades. 
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Jul 6, 2020 12:57
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:2019 F150 shortbed. $515 before tax. Cost me $545 out the door. Yeah, gotta say you got your money's worth. Was it a chain or a local shop?
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Jul 6, 2020 16:35
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C-Bangin' it 
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If I owned a truck, I would look at bedliner as the same investment as weather tech floor mats. It seems pricey up front but long term, totally worth the investment.
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Jul 6, 2020 16:45
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Making progress on swapping the head on my Camry. Should have it out pretty soon but I was too tired to keep going.
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Jul 6, 2020 22:40
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Colostomy Bag posted:Yeah, gotta say you got your money's worth. Was it a chain or a local shop? Chain. I got it done at the local Line-X shop. Verman posted:If I owned a truck, I would look at bedliner as the same investment as weather tech floor mats. It seems pricey up front but long term, totally worth the investment. That reminds me, I gotta get new floor mats for the new truck and get rid of the old Weather Tech mats I pulled out of the old one.
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Jul 7, 2020 00:08
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Finally got my neglected 318is over to my buddy's shop to get it back into shape
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Jul 7, 2020 18:41
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another loser posted:Finally got my neglected 318is over to my buddy's shop to get it back into shape Nobody cares about some BMW, but tell me, only good things PLEASE, about that Pajero.
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Jul 7, 2020 19:03
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KakerMix posted:Nobody cares about some BMW, but tell me, only good things PLEASE, about that Pajero. Friend picked up the Pajero J-Top on the weekend. Other than the convertible fabric top that needs to be replaced, it's in amazing condition. He bought it off a school teacher for $1000 CAD. another loser fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Jul 7, 2020 |
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Jul 7, 2020 19:05
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 sized it up in its new home
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Jul 7, 2020 21:48
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Happy Garage Day 
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Jul 7, 2020 21:50
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I made a patch to replace rust and non-existent metal: I would have preferred smaller gaps, but I can deal with this. Probably should have made 2 or 3 separate pieces, like I did on the other side (out of necessity - I kept running into vanishing metal as I tried to weld in patches.) Before:  Previously, I filled the small hole:   This is all normally hidden (of course it is):  I put POR-15 on the area that will be under the patch, and on some other random formerly-rusty areas, since once you pour some POR-15 out of the can, you shouldn't put it back:  Sorry about the hand. I was trying to shield the camera from the setting sun. That should have cured by now, so I'll weld the patch in probably next weekend. The passenger side was a little worse. I did that side last year, then winter happened. Just now getting back to it.
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Jul 7, 2020 22:49
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The ST grilles are solid through about 3/4 of their honeycomb, so I removed it and got it shaved down over the weekend. Yesterday mounted my euro plate to the crash bar (which is wrapped in black vinyl) using 3M moulding tape before putting the grille back on. I really like the look and it's some further silliness on my car that makes me happy.   
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Jul 8, 2020 11:32
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 Got my knob, just waiting on my MGW shifter.
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Jul 11, 2020 01:47
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My old guy neighbor woke me up at 8am (a bit hungover) because his DD, an all original 85 C10 wouldn't start. Get my poo poo together and head over there coffee in hand. Battery voltage Ok. Headlights and dome light have power. Nothing on accessory power or the ignition switch work at all. Trace it back to a fusible link that's fuckin factory spliced into the harness with one fuse protecting two circuits. He went into town and the NAPA had one universal 16ga fusible link wire that I was able to cut in half and protect the circuits individually (reading online said that's the best way to fix it, saves troubleshooting if you have issues later, and separates the ignition circuit from whatever is on the other one). Never change GM.  Would have been nice to replace with a fuse holder and standard bladed fuse but apparently those won't hold enough current and will pop all the time.
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Jul 11, 2020 23:12
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Fixed my car by replacing the clutch. Turns out a milk crate makes a very good transmission catcher. Ended up buying a transmission jack to get it back in however.
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Jul 12, 2020 13:51
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angryrobots posted:My old guy neighbor woke me up at 8am (a bit hungover) because his DD, an all original 85 C10 wouldn't start. Get my poo poo together and head over there coffee in hand. You probably already know this, but the rule of thumb for fusible link sizing is 4 awg numbers thinner than the wire it's protecting.
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Jul 12, 2020 15:58
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I read something to that effect but the OEM link was marked 16ga so that's what I went back with. The wire it protected appeared to be 12ga so that should be correct? Is there anything more modern that I could have replaced it with that would yield an acceptable fuse curve? I found some people saying they replaced with Maxi fuses, and others saying no that's a bad idea. The NAPA only having one link in stock is kinda scary with the vast amounts of 70s and 80s vehicles still on the road here
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Jul 12, 2020 16:36
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I mean, honestly I would probably run a maxi fuse. Dunno why people wouldn't. If you use a factory grade fuse holder it should be fine, but the junk aftermarket ones in the parts store will probably overheat or corrode into trash fast.
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Jul 13, 2020 05:18
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kastein posted:You probably already know this, but the rule of thumb for fusible link sizing is 4 awg numbers thinner than the wire it's protecting. My rule of thumb is that fusible links are garbage and should be replaced by a fuse or circuit breaker. Mazda loves the damned things on the first gen RX-7s and its other cars of the era. Popular fix is to replace with the under hood fuse block from a second-gen (or just shove ATC fuses into the fusible link block - they juuust fit. )
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Jul 14, 2020 05:47
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Reserved it, after waiting for Ford’s site to un-gently caress itself. Dealer already called me and said I’ll be able to place the official order in a few months. I went for a Badlands trim in 2-door and manual. I’ll spec out the Sasquatch package as well when I do the official order. Antimatter Blue or Cactus Gray. 
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Jul 14, 2020 16:57
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The 2 door looks great. Compare it to the loving Land Rover Discovery and it's hilarious how bad JLR hosed that one. It looks like an off-roader from a 90s sci-fi film.
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Jul 14, 2020 17:14
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