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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Adjusted the brakes! (Well, this was yesterday, by the time I was done I was tired and didn't think to post.) Stops sooo much better, turns out there wasn't air in the lines after all. Maybe the adjusters are stuck (not surprising), but I don't want to go in there and fix the adjusters until I have to do shoes, 'cuz I might as well repack the wheel bearings when I'm in there, and ughh. Glad to be driving it again, though! I'd stopped, 'cause the squishy brakes half an inch from the floor scared the hell out of me. Shoulda taken a picture with the wheel off and dramatic work-light lighting in the middle of the night, but alas.

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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Got new wheels. The rear shocks, it turns out, were not just low on air but are totally dead, so it sags and rubs on the rears a bit on bumps. Work in progress! Already had some hammer time with the inner fenders, but more might be necessary if new shocks don't help as much as I want them too. (cross posted from cell phone pics thread)


Click here for the full 1280x960 image.



Click here for the full 1280x960 image.


Featuring the results of some irritable drunk fuckhead (probably)!

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
New rear shocks! New rear springs! :woop: No more bouncing! No more sagging! No more rubbing!

Heavy duty on both counts, so it should be able to take a few people sitting in the back.

Old ones weren't anything like Daion's though, goddamn son, what the gently caress.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Cage posted:



Got some neat american racing wheels for $120 on craigslist and put em on. I bought the car used and the alloys had some curb rash and I didnt think these were too bad.

Next job: Fix the bubbling tint on rear window. Used to be a kansas car. :|

edit: and try to push that dent out. any ideas?

Try a suction cup. I had the below dent, and a suction cup popped it out fine. It isn't as bad as yours, but it was enough to crack the paint. Your paint looks good, it'll probably pop fairly well. Look better, in any case.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

dissss posted:

Raged yet again at on-street parking:


At least someone left a note with a license plate, pity they didn't think to leave a number. Grrr.

Probably wasn't the person who hit you who left the note, then.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

ExecuDork posted:

Also, I don't what junkyards are like where other people are, but today I was very glad to be wearing my steel toe / steel shank work boots.

Your picture looks about like the one nearest me, except mine is gravel instead of grass. Definitely don't want to skimp on footwear.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

eddiewalker posted:

Tried to get my late-greatgrandmother's '64 Galaxie 500 LTD started so the family can sell it :-/

It's only been sitting for about a year, and the carb was rebuilt not long before then, but the throttle linkage was already frozen solid. It also wasn't getting spark. The coil was original to the car, so I replaced that, gapped the points, and finally got my little HF "spark checker" light to flash, but no amount of aerosol starting fluid could get it to fire.

I only pitched in to help because my uncles were aimlessly throwing parts at the problem with no idea what they were doing. They had a brand new starter ready to put in, even though the engine was obviously cranking.

As I was dicking with my feeler gauge on the points all I heard was, "We're really pretty sure its the starter. Let's install this new one." Ughhhhhh

Post pics post pics pleeeease post pics. Man do I love me some '64 Galaxie. I really don't want to ask, but where in the world is this one that is going to be for sale? :q:

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Rogz posted:

It's penance for driving a completely badass car.

BTW what's it made of? Couldn't you just strip it and have the bar TIG welded or something?

It's pot metal, you can't really (and shouldn't really, it'll just break somewhere else, like along the edge of the weld) weld to it. Getting one made out of a competent material would be worth it.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Cage posted:

I really know nothing about cars more than basic maintenance. In fact, not even that I guess. I know how to change the oil, and replace the brakes.

Are you talking about the situation where if a belt breaks then the engine gets hosed? Or do you just mean its expensive just to replace them so you dont have a problem in the future?

He means that it's a bear of a job, but you better do it because if it snaps, pistons will (might? Dr. Lexus says the older ones might not) violently introduce themselves to valves.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Tightened up the nuts on the driver's side exhaust manifold collector. Sounds so much better! One of the nuts/studs is stripped, but after tightening the other two the exhaust leak is almost entirely gone! Sounds way different and better. Not all clacky. Also, adjusted the driver's door latch so it actually closes properly now. Took like ten minutes, why didn't I do this stuff sooner :doh:

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Raluek posted:

Tightened up the nuts on the driver's side exhaust manifold collector. Sounds so much better! One of the nuts/studs is stripped, but after tightening the other two the exhaust leak is almost entirely gone! Sounds way different and better. Not all clacky. Also, adjusted the driver's door latch so it actually closes properly now. Took like ten minutes, why didn't I do this stuff sooner :doh:

Looks like fixing the little things was a bad idea. That caused the thermostat housing to start weeping, and attempted repair just made it worse. The "fix" for now is to remove the t-stat, leave the radiator cap partway off so it won't build pressure, and cramming some soft gooey rubber-like stuff into the channel where the damaged O-ring was. Got me home! Didn't leak one bit! Might fix it properly tomorrow, might not....

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Pull that dent out with a suction cup! It'll look loads better.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Got a voltmeter? Make sure you are getting 12V at the starter on your big cable, then turn the key and make sure you are getting 12V to the control wire on your solenoid. If you are, maybe the solenoid is just stuck? They've got to be cheaper than the entire starter assembly. I dunno, just poke around with a meter until you find where the problem is.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Got it dirty! It's what trucks are for. Aftermath:

Click here for the full 1024x768 image.



Click here for the full 1024x768 image.


Obligatory syf0n shot:

Click here for the full 1024x768 image.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

ExecuDork posted:

My cousin restored a Ford F-100, 1963 (I think), also white. Where are you?

I should show him your pictures, I doubt he's ever taken his through so much as a wet parking lot.

This one's a '60, '63 had a body style change if I remember correctly. I'm in northern California. If he's that sort, the bed will probably make his stomach turn!


Click here for the full 768x1024 image.


It's all wavy from the previous owner hauling way too much gravel in it.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Wanderer89 posted:

we're too cheap to find another flathead, so we may end up going to the darkside...

If this means a small block chevy, gently caress you. If this means big block ford (stroker 460!), now that's just fine.

trouser chili posted:

Sold it. Got the check last night, the thirteen letter poo poo spreader is going to South Carolina. (there will be a thread about this)

Nooo! After all that work getting it rebuilt?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Splizwarf posted:

You have earned one of the most difficult AI merit badges.

Today I replaced my rack and pinion again; made it three and a half months on the last one. gently caress you, Advance Auto. Also, thank you, Advance Auto, for your limited lifetime warranty. Also, I am getting fast as poo poo at doing a driveway rack and pinion on a RWD Volvo.

e: and dropped off a battery for trickle-charging. Got me wondering how hard it could be to build a 13-volt 1-amp trickle-charging circuit harness with some Radio Shack diodes and resistors?

It's gotta be pretty easy. Get a power supply that'll do some voltage greater than 13V (isn't lead acid charging voltage 13.8v?) and figure out what resistor you would need to both drop the voltage and limit the current to your voltage and current goal. I'd imagine the hardest part would be finding a resistor in the few-watts range of the value you need.

Am I way off base on this, oh ye who Actually know electronics?

e: Like, if you had a 15V power adapter at an amp+, you'd use a ~1ohm resistor in the 2W+ range. Right? I always just use my bench power supply, which has current control....

Raluek fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Jan 22, 2011

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Sponge! posted:

Lead acid batteries are constant voltage charged, so slap 14.2 volts onto them and they'll reach Quiescence eventually.

Nicad/Ni-mh are constant current.

So you'd need an LM317 regulator, and the appropriate resistor for 14.2 volts, and the 15 volt power supply. (TO-220 heatsink is recommended for the LM317 regulator.)

At that point I guess you might as well just spend a couple bucks more and get a volt panel meter and replace the resistor for a pot, have a low-cost bench power supply. The LM317T only does 1.5A though.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

eddiewalker posted:

To be fair, it's really hard to solder to a battery. If you somehow manage to get the battery contact hot enough to make a solid joint, I'm sure it's not good for the battery's guts.

Shoulda just put a battery holder in the board if you're gonna use those kinds of batteries. Are they 2/3A?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

djhaloeight posted:

I installed Spyder halo/angel eye projector headlights in my 300M Special today, along with an aftermarket 8000k HID kit. The Special has an OEM HID setup already, with Valeo projectors, but all the aftermarket D1S bulbs are crap, and fail very soon. They also don't match my HID foglights well either. The highest color temp D1S bulb I can find from a quality manufacturer (sylvania, osram, etc) is 6000k, and they're like $250 a pop. The 8000k and up D1S ebay specials are $40 for a pair, which says something about quality. I've had better luck with my aftermarket foglight HID kit, which has lasted a long time and had no problems with.

So, that was my reasoning in getting the new headlights and an aftermarket kit. The new bulbs in there match my fogs perfectly, and the 'angel eyes' look trick. Plus new headlights freshen up any vehicles appearance.

Here's a quick pic of the angel eyes look. Gives the car a menacing look IMO.

My hosting:


Isn't 8000k what one might call "hella fuckin' blue"? Why do you want it that blue? Isn't 5000k closer to "white light"? According to the color temperature references I can find, 8000k is pretty drat blue.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Geoj posted:

^
The bigger problem he has is retrofitting HID bulbs into non-HID housings. The new headlights will be effective to about 200 feet (if he's lucky.)

He called them "projector headlights" so I have some faith (since this is AI after all) that they do in fact have projector housings to go with them.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Pretty Little Rainbow posted:

Got the new goodmark cowl hood on the other day, fits and looks great, and the cowl part that faces the windshield is a bunch of drilled holes in the steel instead of a big gap, looks badass to the people inside and that way crud doesn't fly in.



Rebuilt 4 bolt main 350 out of a 71 Blazer with a cam and some other stuff and no smog should be in the car this weekend or next.

Finally! I've always liked your car, but it had that dang 305. Progress! Post video when you get it swapped.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

daslog posted:

Converted my Ignition from Points to Pertronix. Came across this nightmare when I started to wire it up to the coil




If the hot wire goes straight to the starter (battery), I'd guess that the negative going to the firewall is because they switched the negative instead of the positive. Unless it's for a tach? Do caddies have tachs?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Wrestled the radiator out of the truck (thing took over an hour to drain!), borrowed my dad's truck to take it to the radiator shop. Sign on the door says they're closed all this week. :doh:

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Bulk Vanderhuge posted:

Washed egg off my cars, yay paint damage on the mini.

Who would do that to such nice cars? Neither of your cars were obnoxious or anything. What the hell?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Charged the battery after about 9 months of sitting. I was afraid it would be terribly sulfated and unusable, but it was sitting at 12.0V when I started. What a trooper of a battery.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Moved the car for the first time in 11 months. Started it for the first time in as long on Sunday. So now it's by the garage, and I can start Getting Things Done.


Here's what I'm starting with:


Here's where I'm going:

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Found a neat new way to dump a bunch of ATF on the ground.



Glug glug glug. Next time leave the torque converter with the trans.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Found (and cleaned) the intake manifold bolts! Hopefully the weather holds tomorrow so I can get that and the ignition installed tomorrow.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Seat Safety Switch posted:

I don't see anything going over the top of the battery; I see the hole at the bottom where I would imagine the tiedown would latch into. I'm probably missing something though.

The bottom of the battery toes out, and there is a bracket (probably on each side) that bolts over that toe, clamping the battery down. It's not over the top, but it looks like it's the way it was done from the factory so I assume it's good enough.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
You have good taste in knives, and that's an amazing idea to make a wooden key-head. Looks a zillion times better than the plastic, and I'm sure it's a million times sturdier.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Got the brakes working, so I could actually move it a small bit! (I set up chocks just in case the brakes didn't work, which is why it looks all jerky.) Maybe tomorrow I will get to actually drive it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTfBpI4d69w

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Over the weekend:

Out with the new


In with the.... old?


All done

It ran, but poorly. Sounded like it was missing more often than it was hitting. So tonight, I thought I'd pull number one and make sure I had it timed on the compression stroke and not 180deg out, feel for the whoosh. So I pull the plug and- :stare:


Three of them are like this. Small chambers and flat top pistons apparently don't get along with these particular plugs. Apparently the Vortec heads use longer plugs, and I didn't know that so I just re-used the longer ones. Figures.

Raluek fucked around with this message at 07:54 on Aug 1, 2012

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

kimbo305 posted:

I debated posting this, but I will now. I bemoan the passing of the era when manufacturers wouldn't care about an extra seam for the sake of making sensibly modular interiors. The cost of perceived luxury is insane hours unbuttoning really convoluted packaging.

I agree.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Fart Pipe posted:

Lowered it








Oh, so you're Fart Pipe. Should have figured, you've changed your name a few times in the last couple years.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
How did it feel backing your rocketship out of the garage, then having to drive away in the 240D?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Oh come on! They aren't that bad. Rears are a bit of a hassle with the parking brake lever thingy, but they aren't that hard once you've done a couple of them. I'm actually intimidated by disc brakes because I worry about having to compress the pistons etc.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Your car remains magnificent. It's on bags, right?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

trouser chili posted:

Little car show near the house. Brought the whole family.



Does that '60 F100 have the big rear window? Kind of looks like it does.
E: Although the grille is painted instead of chromed, so maybe it's not a custom cab? But it looks kind of like the edge of the window at the back of the cab. Hrm.

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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

trouser chili posted:

It was a small window I think. The big window is curved glass that wraps around the rear pillar, correct? It didn't have that going on. Just flat glass in the back. It also had the big straight six and a three speed column shift.

Yeah. Base model! Short bed, I assume? They usually are. I need a new bed for mine and I'm having a hell of a time finding a long bed that hasn't been sitting in a field forever.

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