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Ozmiander posted:Sourced a 2.5 out of a 2001 Dakota for my YJ. With any luck ill have it here saturday and ill start moving accessories from the original motor in preparation. I had no idea that the Daks used the Jeep 2.5L. Interesting.
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Apr 5, 2013 23:59
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Swapped out the useless basic gauge cluster on my '95 Cherokee with a full-gauges cluster.  No wiring to change - the cluster just plugs in - but you do have to change out the oil pressure and temp senders for the gauge versions. Of course, the temp sender didn't want to cooperate:   At least it came out easy (no pun intended.) And then:  That's the oil pressure sender and the right-angle adapter it mounts to.  That's where it goes, which is under the AC compressor and hoses. Also, the giant gently caress-off motor mount is in the way of a straight shot at the hole, and therefore the remains of the adapter, which is why the stupid sender doesn't just stick out of the side of the block in the first place. After a couple hours of removing the motor mount, which involved also removing the alternator, during which I may have intimated that Jeep/Chrysler engineers could all eat a bag of dicks, I got the freaking stub out:  It also came out easy, at least. New senders went back in with no problem. Motor mount went back in fairly easily, once I remembered I had an air ratchet (limited wrench swinging room in there.) Pissed I didn't remember that to take it out... Changed the oil, oil filter (got rid of the Fram the PO used,)spark plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor. The #1 spark plug on the 2.5L is annoying but not ridiculous:  Also swapped in a tilt steering column with a good airbag.  And just for good measure, I helped a kid from our local RX-7 club install a new stereo in his very clean '79 RX-7. This weekend about wore me out. After all that, the oil pressure gauge on the new cluster is not working. It's pointing straight to the right, and remains the same with the sender unplugged. either a problem with the wiring or the gauge, I guess.
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Apr 8, 2013 19:37
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kastein posted:How the hell did you break BOTH of those? Your luck is the worst... I have never broken either and I've probably done a half dozen of each. At least they are both NPT threaded and therefore not much of a fight for an ez-out once they start turning. I have no idea. I put a socket on the temp sender and applied gentle pressure to the ratchet. I didn't just suddenly put 110 lb.ft on it. drat thing just slowly twisted off. It may have already had a fracture - the stub was filled with oil. The oil pressure sender was TIGHT. I had to give it some grunt to get it out with the right-angle adapter clamped in the bench vise. Fortunately, the stub of the adapter wasn't all that tight. It had actually shifted a bit before it broke, trying to unscrew there rather than let the sender go. Hopefully, I can figure out what's wrong with the oil pressure gauge. If it points all the way to the right (past the highest pressure,)does that mean a short, or an open in the wire?
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Apr 10, 2013 00:16
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kastein posted:I'm honestly not sure. If you unplug the sender, does it stay the same or move to the other end of the scale? How about if you test-wire the lead for the sender to ground? If I unplug It, there's no change. Haven't shorted the wire yet. I'm going to put an ohmmeter on the sender to see what's up. As an added bonus, the temp sender just started wigging out. It'll suddenly go right past full hot and point straight to the right, then bounce back, sometimes, to the actual temp. Unplugged the sender and the temp gauge goes to the lowest temp, so the sender is grounding out for some reason. Yay lifetime warranty BWD stuff. Bet the oil pressure sender is bad out of the box, too. Something I noticed when I changed the oil is that the filter comes straight out of the block. I thought there we supposed to be a 90-degree adapter, or is that only the 4.0? For ease of filter changes, I love my RX-7s. Filter is right on top like that BRZ. And the spark plugs are easy to reach. 
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Apr 12, 2013 19:50
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kastein posted:Yeah, the YJ is the same, I can't imagine being that clumsy either. Ah, the 2.5 has a slightly different mounting. Guess they improved that when they designed it, though it's based off the 4.0. The oil filter is in the same place, but closer to the block, so it clears the frame rail easily, and the oil pressure sender is between the distributor and the front of the block, with a 90-degree adapter because of the engine mount, there. Speaking of which, I fixed my oil pressure gauge. After testing the gauge and wiring by grounding it (it swings to zero when grounded with 0 Ohms,) and verifying that the OP sender was actually at ground with the engine off, it turned out that the terminal inside the Weatherpak connector had managed to scoot up inside the housing, so it wasn't making contact. Fixed that, and I have an oil pressure reading. Also replaced the temp sender, since it was mostly shorting to ground. Thank you O'reilly's warranty. I had to fix the odometer on my new gauge cluster. I managed to bugger the spur gear between the tenths and ones when resetting it to match my old cluster's mileage. It would get stuck every third time around, so I swapped it with the gear between the 10K and 100K, set so the problem spur had just passed so I don't have to worry about it for over 200K miles more.  Let's see... Put in new steel battery terminals to replace the crapped up lead ones that were in there, and installed a battery hold-down to keep the battery from wandering around the engine compartment. Also added a can of 134a to the AC, and was amazed when it started cooling down to 45 degrees (80 degrees out, fairly high humidity.) Then I think I added too much, because the compressor started cycling too much, and staying mostly off. May need to take it to a shop just so they can recover the 134a and start from vacuum with the proper amount. Had a look at the clutch hydraulics to see about bleeding it, and was astounded that both the master and the slave are plastic! And no sign of a bleeder. Will need to consult the manual. I'm getting a clunk under certain conditions from the front end, feels like it's right under my feet. I'm assuming that's the 200K-mile control arm bushings signalling for replacement, so that's on the to-do list now. General Failure: Awesome! Glad you finally got that thing home. I think I would totally buy one f they had ever imported them here to the US in any numbers, so I could be assured of parts. Not much point in a cheap sledgehammer-simple car if all the parts have to come from overseas.
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Apr 15, 2013 04:35
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I put a keyless-entry alarm in my Cherokee. I had previously added power door lock motors when I upgraded the speakers. Nice to have keyless entry, like on all my other cars. I add an alarm with keyless entry to everything I own. An alarm only costs about $10-20 more than a keyless entry, and only has about 3 more wires to worry about. I used to be an installer, so no more cost for me, just a bit more labor. Everything was easy to find in the Cherokee. Even so, it took me half a day each Sunday and Monday. I must be getting old/rusty. I used to be able to do 2 alarms a day... of course, I was much more casual with this one than one I would install for a customer, and I expended a little more effort on placement, wire routing, and added features, too. Need to get a liftgate latch from a more-featured model - they have a rear cargo light, and therefore a switch for it, built into the latch. The wiring's there, fortunately. As it is, the liftgate won't trigger the alarm. Not to mention I want that rear cargo light, too. Need to finish putting the 6x9s in the gate, too. Bleagh. Maybe I'll hit the wrecking yard this week - off for vacation. I got a long list of stuff to snag from better-equipped Cherokees.
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Apr 23, 2013 02:34
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EightBit posted:Do the alarms you install have starter interrupts? Yep. Though I seemed to have F'd this one up - it doesn't interrupt, and I didn't check it until I had everything buttoned up. Either my relay is bad, I wired the socket wrong, or the armed output from the alarm doesn't work. The way I wire them is that the relay only triggers to interrupt when you actually try to start the car. That way, the relay isn't sitting there baking (and drawing current) all the time the alarm is armed. I also got clever and wired the light output to the dome light via a relay, since this model alarm doesn't have dome light supervision (turns on the dome light when disarmed, for convenience and security) but does turn on the park lights for 30 or 60 seconds on disarm. I forgot to diode-isolate the vehicle's lights from the alram output, so now the dome light always comes on when you turn on the lights. DERP. Fortunately the connection is in the kick panel, and easy to rectify. Everything else is working as intended, thankfully.
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Apr 25, 2013 07:36
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EvilBeard posted:Friend's been working on his 1986 325i. He works at a body shop, so work area is nice. Worked on the dash this weekend. What do you use to fill the cracks, and texture the finish? Are they something the average consumer can get a hold of? My '70 Cutlass has developed some nice cracks, and I'm not quite up to spending the $1000 to have Just Dashes re-vinyl the thing. Could just have it upholstered in tweed or something, I guess...
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Apr 29, 2013 22:06
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EvilBeard posted:The material we repaired the dash with was SEM FUS-143 Lord Fusor Extreme Bumper Repair Adhesive (you can find it on the net for less than $20 a tube). It's an epoxy in a tube. We used a die grinder to groove out the cracks larger, and then filled them with the epoxy. Interesting, thank you. The color is normal vinyl dye? The UV coating - is that something that goes along with the dye? I.E., any paint supply should have it or something similar? EDIT: well, that's annoying. The bumper repair is cheap enough, but the freaking applicator gun costs twice as much. Eh, still cheaper than a new dash, I guess.
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Apr 30, 2013 19:47
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Vigo327 posted:Ah, nothing like euphemistic 'concern for other people's safety' to make you feel entitled to bitch about silly stuff. Saving the world from falling 3000lb objects one flimsy fabric foot-covering at a time! You also apparently repainted the lower body color at some point. Looks better all dark brown, and much better with the lowering and wheels. I never could stand Chrysler fake wire caps, though theirs were some of the better ones. They definitely didn't translate well to the tiny wheels on the k-cars.
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May 17, 2013 21:43
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Rhyno posted:Agreed, this is one of the best looking RX8's I've seen. Indeed. The spacers actually put the wheels flush. The sunk in stock wheels is something I shake my head at every time I see it. Why the heck didn't they either put wider wheels on the back, or just get the offsets right in the first place. That's one thing BMW always seems to have right: their wheel fitment is almost always perfect, flush and centered in the opening, with a nice even gap all around.
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May 22, 2013 20:11
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Replaced the ratty, faded, and/or missing center cap emblem stickers on my Cherokee. Much better. Little bit of rust on the wheels - need to sand and paint them eventually. Think I'll go black instead of the stock silver. e: pics (my Dropbox). Old and busted:   New hotness:  $7/set from eBay. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 08:56 on May 25, 2013 |
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May 25, 2013 08:15
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After spending Saturday morning in the salvage yard, I now have a center console, overhead console, under-dash courtesy lights, rear cargo light, digital clock, and an under-hood light for my '95 Cherokee. Got the rear cargo/dome light installed, and the liftgate latch with the built-in pin switch to operate it, and then put a 24-LED panel in the light rather than the incandescent bulb. Way brighter - lights up the entire rear area nicely - and doesn't get hot. Got started on the center console. Fortunately, the transmission tunnel has dimples for the screw that locate the brackets, so just a matter of cutting a hole in the carpet in approximately the right place. Discovered I need a different lower AC plenum for the air duct in the console to the rear seats, so I need to go back and get that Monday. Also going to grab a set of 2-door seats I spotted, and a few pieces of interior trim I forgot I needed. I love upgrading my base model Heep with better goodies. Keeps me out of trouble. Idle hands, and all that.
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May 27, 2013 05:57
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Got the center console installed on my Cherokee, and went back to the wrecking yard on Monday for seats. Cobbled together a set of Grand Cherokee seats with 2-door Cherokee Classic flip-forward hinges, and Cherokee Classic bases. Also found a near-perfect '95-6 leather steering wheel. Tore the seats back apart when I got them home and tossed the upholstery in the wash. Probably put them back together this evening. Now I need to go back and get a roof rack. Actually found one that the adjuster mechanisms weren't stuck.
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May 28, 2013 23:48
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Put different seats in the the Cherokee over the weekend. Cobbled together later ZJ Grand Cherokee seats with the proper 2-door Cherokee hinges (allows flip-forward), and now I have comfy seats that let me reach the back seat. Cleaned up and treated a leather steering wheel I found in a ZJ that happens to use the same style airbag as my regular Cherokee. Leather is damned near perfect on it. From the fain marks, I think it had a cover on it most of it's life. It's not even dried out a little at the top, which is what I saw on most of the other decent ones. Next: wire up the overhead console I got on the bench to see if the compass/temp thingy works. Ditto for the digital clock upgrade.
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Jun 5, 2013 22:37
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some texas redneck posted:Swapped out my interior lighting for LEDs. I did that in my '90 RX-7 - two 10-LED panels replacing a pathetic little 9mm bulb - and I love how it now lights up thae whole car. So much so I did the same with a bigger panel in the rear dome light in my Jeep Cherokee (didn't do the front because I'm putting in an overhead console that has four separate dome/reading lights. Going to use either 194 replacements, or smaller panels for those, once I measure them.) Bonus is that the dome light also will no longer burn you accidentally (or on purpose, for that matter.)
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Jun 6, 2013 19:44
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Painted and installed some interior trim and Ohshit handles secured from the junkyard in the Cherokee - just need the headliner now. Installed the leather Grand Cherokee steering wheel as well, after modifying it for the mechanical airbag in the classic model (a bracket that supports the airbag, and has an integrated arming bolt for the bag. Remove from old wheel by drilling four rivets, secure to new wheel by drilling four holes and riveting.) Finally put the liftgate trim panel back on and installed my 6x9s back there. Fitted the overhead console brackets to the, er, overhead. Need to clean up the console, and reupholster it. Probably wait until I have the headliner to do that last part, to make it match. Installed underdash footwell courtesy lights. Basically, I installed the rest of the stuff I got from better models at the salvage yard. I love upgrading my cars to a better spec.
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Jun 10, 2013 05:53
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kastein posted:Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep can go to loving hell for that too, I'm too cheap to buy $200+ new steering shafts and even ones that test as good in the junkyard only last me about 6 months before binding up and then becoming really loose, probably due to my driving style. I'd say make your own steering shaft using street rod stuff with replaceable joints.
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Jul 21, 2013 19:45
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just go on down to da tractor store an git you sum of these little tractor PTO ujoints!
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Raluek posted:Oh come on! They aren't that bad. Rears are a bit of a hassle with the parking brake lever thingy, but they aren't that hard once you've done a couple of them. I'm actually intimidated by disc brakes because I worry about having to compress the pistons etc. Yes, they are. If you have a problem compressing a caliper piston, how in the hell do you deal with leaking wheel cylinders, and all those stupid springs going every where? Oh, and which shoe goes where? And EVERYTHING YOU HAVE TO TOUCH coated with brake dust? Drums suck.
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Jul 26, 2013 20:39
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Fixed the audio input jack on my wife's Kia Spectra5. It's all plastic, and unless you use a 90-degree connector, the cable sticks straight up so it can get whacked by anything. Doesn't happen often, but enough whacks and the jack gets flaky. Replaced it with a better panel-mount jack, which is tougher than it sounds, because the OEM jack is on a PCB, and the whole assembly is its own little enclosed part, like a switch. The PCB anc connector are now dangling inside the console, with a bit of cable connecting it to the jack inside the housing. Simplest solution. Then I found out the replacement OEM part is available for $20 + shipping. Ah, well, my solution will probably last longer. Larrymer posted:Welp, there goes another You can get polyurethane boots from Energy Suspension and Prothane. Just replace the boots, unless the joints are iffy.
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Jul 29, 2013 01:48
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towards rock auto for new front end parts. I managed to destroy the tie rod and ball joint boots on both sides trying to replace axles, so I'm just going to replace everything while I'm in there. 
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Swapped in something clean. comfortable, and stylish in place of the stock square rubber thing on the shifter on my '95 Cherokee: Grainy due to dark. If I used the flash it completely blew out the knob. Can't drive it at the moment, though. Waiting on the clutch kit I ordered. Release bearing is more of a release slider/screeching noise maker than a bearing just right now. First major work on the new-to-me Jeep. Only took 4 months. Yay! (It's OK, it only cost me $600, and is very good conditions otherwise.)
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Aug 20, 2013 23:14
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fps_bill posted:I hate you so much. I want a 5 speed xj so bad. Do you want the 4-banger that goes with it, too? I wish it was a 4.0L, but the price was right, and it goes alright (when the clutch isn't buggered). I'll slip on something more awesome if and when the 2.5 goes, which will likely be never, given it's derived from the nigh-immortal 4.0.
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Aug 22, 2013 00:53
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Finished pulling the transmission out of the Cherokee to replace the failed, screeching release bearing. Yep, it failed.  Those two balls are the only bearings I found in the bellhousing, and they were firmly embedded in the grease, so I don't think they'd been part of the release bearing for some time. When I spun the remains of the bearing, silver dust trickled out. Lots of rusty dust around here.    Yeah, there's not even a hint of any sort of lubrication in there. This would be why I had trouble getting it into gear when stopped. The pilot bearing wasn't seized, but it had enough drag to spin up the trans even with the clutch disengaged. Clutch disc was almost worn out.   Rivets were juuuust making their presence felt on the pressure plate. No damage to the flywheel, thankfully. New clutch in. Transmission will go back in tomorrow.  Also noticed this while I was under there with the trans out:   I guess that's where the slight exhaust leak is coming from. At least it's just missing and not broken off. I'll get a bolt in there before the trans goes back in.
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Aug 24, 2013 06:02
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ALMOST got the Cherokee's transmission back in. As usual, it's fighting me, compounded by some stupid design choices on the Harbor Freight transmission jack.
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Aug 26, 2013 19:04
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kastein posted:e2: Darchangel, do yourself a favor and run a tap through that manifold stud hole before you put it back in. Should be 3/8-16 UNC iirc. Nothing worse than a stud seizing itself in by the next time you have to pull it apart. Metric. Pulled the next bolt over out and matched it. '95 2.5L. I did put anti-sieze on both of them when they went in. Transmission and jack pissed me off Sunday evening, so I let the thing just sit there Monday evening -I hurt too much from 2 days solid of wrenching on various cars and things. Might attempt it again this evening.
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Aug 27, 2013 21:18
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kastein posted:Wait, WTF? It's METRIC? Threads and diameter matched up with several bolts, including the 8.8 bolt I used, I had in my spare metric bolts stash. M10, fine thread. 1.25? 3/8-16 would be coarser, I think. I've got plenty of those leftover from various GMs I own/owned. Dangit, now you've got me worried about it. e: gently caress, the internet agrees with you. 3/8"-16 x 1.25" bolt, or a stud in that location, possibly with a fine thread on the end sticking out. I guess whatever metric I used is close enough to go in as far as I needed it to. Whelp, at least it's still up in the air and easy to get to. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Aug 27, 2013 |
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Aug 27, 2013 23:02
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Transmission is in. Still need to refill the oil (dumped most of it on the driveway until I discovered that a TH-350 tails haft plug fits the AX-5 just fine) and reinstall the crossmember. That's this evening. Put in the proper 3/8-16 bolt in the exhaust manifold, and yes, the threads are close enough for the first 1/2 - 3/8" to mistake M10-whatever for 3/8-16.
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Aug 28, 2013 20:42
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Finally got the transmission back in my Cherokee. Yay, working clutch! As an added bonus, found a missing bolt in the exhaust manifold and replaced it, which seems to have cured the slight exhaust tick it had, and for whatever reason, the vibration I had at ~73-4 MPH has disappeared. Either the old clutch was out of balance,or I got the driveshaft in 180-degrees from the way it was, and that fixed it. Either way, I'm happy. Thanks to the fresh pilot bearing, I can get it into gear at a stop now, too. Next up: not a damned thing. It's too hot here in TX to work on crap outside. Maybe next month.
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Aug 29, 2013 18:21
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There's no way I could have put the slip yoke back in the same way - I did not and never have tracked that on any driveshaft removal I've ever done, to no ill effect. My manual said something about marking, but I assumed it meant the differential end (you can tell how closely I read the manual...) I actually had the slip yoke in and out a couple of times to rotate the input shaft to line up the splines.
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Aug 29, 2013 22:05
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General_Failure posted:Pretty sure it's all aluminium. The chunks out of the outside of the drum aren't great. Nor is the reason the back end always smells like diff oil. I may have also been mistaken but I doubt it, the bearing seemed fine from a freeplay perspective but it sure didn't feel right. Like the crank on the old Hills hoist in the yard. It may have just been the diff but pretty sure it was the bearing. Attempt to stick a magnet to the braking surface. That'll tell you. Looks like a steel or cast-iron insert to me, but hard to tell from a picture. Aluminum would suck as a friction surface. It does look like the shoes were rubbing on the front inside surface, though. Maybe that's your noise?
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Sep 17, 2013 21:03
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Well, I had last week off as a birthday present to myself, so I took some time to tidy up some things on my Cherokee. First, I put the aluminum wheels with 31" tires on the truck so I could paint the steel wheels black, so I could live with them until the tires wore out and I could get new tires for the aluminum ones:  I do like how beefy the 31-10.5-15s looked.   They actually only rubbed a bit at full lock in the front in city driving.Unfortunately, those tires are bald (2x) almost bald (2x) and dry rotted (4x). Also unbalanced, and noisy. After thinking about it for a bit, I went ahead and spring to have the good tires from the steelies moved to the aluminum wheels. They're a trifle narrow, 215/75-15 on 15x8, but I'll fix that when they wear out. They'll do for now. I did end up having to get one new tire, as I had one old Firestone among the relatively new Goodyears on the truck. I suspect it was the full-size spare when the new tires were purchased, and was rotated in. It was from 2005, starting to dry rot, and Discount Tire refused to have anything to do with it. Fortunately, a new Kumho was $50, and the counter guy waived part of the mounting fees.   I do like those Gambler wheels. Next, I decide to attack the rusty (surface rust - I'm in N. TX, so no major cancer) Before:   After a bit of disassembly, sanding, cleaning, bedliner, and reassembly:   Bedliner is good stuff. Alert observers will note that I also put the fog lights back on. Those came with the replacement bumper that's on the truck - it had a sort of flattened one on it when I got it, but the seller provided an uninstalled replacement from a better-trimmed Cherokee, with fog lights. I did have to work over the fog lights, as they had some surface rust, and had apparently had some water trapped in them for a while:  The other one wasn't as bad, but still had plenty of pinholes. After sandblasting (my God, I love my blasting cabinet!):   Ah. Good thing these aren't structural! Out comes the epoxy, AKA JB Weld: http://wright-here.net/gallery/d/13176-2/IMG_1091.JPG http://wright-here.net/gallery/d/12980-2/IMG_1092.JPG Spray galvanizing on the inside, primer on the outside, then a coat of Rustoleum Satin Black, clean all the rubber bits, and good to go:   Geeze, already dirty. I should probably wire them up now. :P  (I'll get the wiring and OEM switch next time I hit the wrecking yard.)
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Sep 18, 2013 00:17
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smax posted:Stripped out the holes in my bumper that I screw my license plate into and had to buy a new license plate mount and install it. Part number/application? Pics?
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Sep 28, 2013 21:34
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Removed the bumper-mount hitch, and installed a proper receiver hitch culled from the wrecking yard on my Cherokee. ..and added a cover picked up on clearance from Northern Tool. I had to. Still also digging the bedliner I put on the bumpers.
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Oct 1, 2013 22:32
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I put LED bulbs in the Cherokee's tail/brake, third brake, reverse, and side maker lights last weekend. Somehow forgot to purchase the turn signal bulbs, and the amber 194s for the front side markers. I did get the front turn signal/park light bulbs but have been too lazy to install. The tail/brake bulbs I purchase off of eBay were about $30, and seem to be up to par. They are definitely brighter in tail mode, and as bright if not slightly brighter than the incandescents in brake mode, and more "red". Not bad. The same seller has another variant that uses a single Cree LED with a projector lens on the end, and an array of Samsung 2030s on the sides for about the same price. I'll try those on another vehicle. I spotted a set of LED headlights in my latest Quadratech catalog, but I'm not up to spending $500 on headlights for my $600 Jeep.
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Nov 1, 2013 23:26
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Gorillian Dollars posted:It may happen that when you swap your blinkers with LED bulbs it will flash very fast like a stroboscope rather than the average rate. This is due to the reduced electricity consumption. There are special LED blinker relais that you can buy which aren't expensive at all, usually around the 15-25 dollar mark. $14.99 on eBay, or a bit less on SuperBright LEDs, but with $4 shipping. I put the LEDs in the front turn/park on Sunday, and yeah, hyper-flashing ho! Oddly, it's OK on 4-ways. Both modes are handled by a single 5-pin flasher on my Cherokee. Ordering the flasher and some more bulbs tonight. Washed the Jeep on Sunday as well, and tried Bondo's version of Back to Black on the flares, mirrors and door handles. Not bad, but I need to mask off, and get a better (smaller) applicator to try to avoid getting the stuff on the white paint. It seems to come off well enough with a little Windex, but I'd prefer to just not get it on the paint in the first place. Of course, it's supposed to rain the next couple of days.
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Nov 5, 2013 01:59
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some texas redneck posted:Not my ride, the parents rides instead. Mom's Avalon has 2 working keyfobs, but with broken cases. Stepshit's F-150 has two very broken keyfobs. Alarm and keyless remotes are priced in the most arbitrary, silly fashion ever. New remotes for the sorta-new K9 alarm I bought on eBay, because it came with two remotes, one for each of two different K9 alarms that weren't compatible with this one, cost more than I paid for the alarm. Fortunately, there is a seller on eBay that had used ones, with a new battery, for $11. Alarm is currently in my Cherokee and working great. quote:The "fast flash" is intended to tell you that you have a failed bulb while driving normally - something in the circuit (either a BCM or a flasher) is looking for the power draw of at least 2 incandescent bulbs. The 4 ways aren't a part of normal daily driving; I'd assume car makers assume that if you're in an accident, one or more lights may be damaged, but you still need working hazards. Makes sense. I knew that the fast flash was to tell you a bulb was out, but it just didn't click that the the 4-ways would be exempt. I'm used to the 2 different flashers on my ancient '70 Cutlass, 1 for turn and 1 for 4-ways, for one thing. quote:There's also some resistors that you can plug in with the bulbs to achieve the same effect. Especially useful when you have a car that has the flasher module built into the body control module. Yeah, I'll probably have to use those in my FC RX-7, since the flasher is part of an ECU that handles several other functions as well.
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Nov 6, 2013 00:50
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kastein posted:The fast flash thing wasn't originally intended to indicate a burnt out bulb - it was just how things worked. Thermal type (bimetallic strip switch with a nichrome heating element wire wrapped around it) two pin flasher modules just flash faster when they have less current draw. Then people got used to the faster flashing meaning they had a bad bulb, so it was added to the appropriate federal motor vehicle safety standard to make sure it'd still work on newer vehicles with electronic flashers and/or LED lighting. Say what? I seem to recall my flashers stopping when a bulb was out, because there wasn't enough current draw to heat up the bimetallic element. Didn't you use to have to buy "heavy duty" flashers to keep your blinkers from going to fast when connecting a trailer, or am I just completely remembering this all wrong? Probably that last one.
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Nov 6, 2013 05:45
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Received and installed the remaining rear turn signal LED bulbs and the LED-friendly flasher for the Cherokee. Installed both, and then realized that, with the lights on and the flashers running, the third brake light was also blinking, albeit somewhat more dimly that full-on. Turned off the running lights, and the third brake light stopped flashing, but now the regular brake lights were dimly blinking. WTF? I don't think it was doing that with LEDs everywhere except the rear blinkers, and the old flasher in there, but maybe it was and I had my head up my rear end and didn't notice. Anyway, after much cursing, and bulb- and flasher-swapping, I determined that the fricking trailer light adapter that converts from separate blinkers to combined turn/brake was feeding back just enough voltage to dimly light the brake lights. So now I need to find a better isolated trailer wiring adapter, I guess. It was also lighting up the turn signal indicators on the dash a bit when the lights were on, but that was because voltage was feeding back through the incandescent bulbs still installed in the side markers, which use some grounding through the turn-signal trickery to blink with or opposite of the signals. Replacing those with LEDs solved that, but now they only blink when the running lights are on. Ah, well.
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Nov 8, 2013 21:30
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Fixed the issue with my LED bulbs pissing off the trailer wiring converter by putting a diode in the brake wire between the T-connector and the actual converter. Everything works except the hazard lights (on the trailer,) Not sure why that changed. I think the converter uses the brake lights, when off, as a ground for the hazard lights so they won't blink when the brakes are applied. Probably why the silly thing was feeding back in the first place. Regular blinkers, brake, and park lights work fine. If I feel like blowing $35, I'll try a newer model of converter. Aimed the headlights so I don't have to put them on high beam to see more than 6 feet in front of the truck, and high beam actually does something useful on dark rural roads. Put in a replacement rearview mirror from O'Reilly's, because the OEM one was losing its silvering, and the day/night function was broken. Should have picked one up last time I was at the wrecking yard for $cheap, but $15 at O'Reilly's is OK. Oh, also put in an eBay LED worklight as an underhood light, connected to a gutted bulb base, so the mercury tilt switch function works.
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Nov 11, 2013 19:00
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| # ¿ Apr 24, 2024 05:21 |
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Added a cupholder. Those with 85-01 Jeep Cherokees will confirm that the factory cupholder options are pathetic. They're both add-ons, and are only suitable for a half-empty soda can. I started with one of these:  Did a bunch of trimming, and ended up with this:    Much better. It leans a little to the left - I'll fix that by trimming the vertical part a little more, but it works for now. It would have fit even better without the cell-phone pocket in between the cup holders. As it is, it gets a little tight when the seat is slid forward for rear seat access (2-door model) but it just fits. I may try something similar with a fabricated steel or aluminum bracket, and a pair of poker table/boat cup older inserts at a later time. Might be more attractive. Or maybe recess said inserts into the console itself. Hmmmmm... Maybe bedliner this one for a slightly better appearance. edit: eh, need to do something about that chunk out of the front of the console on the passenger side, even if it's just cut it straight so it doesn't look like a break. I don't normally see that from the driver's side, of course, so I forget about it.
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Nov 18, 2013 19:04
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