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eighty-four merc posted:These wagons had self-leveling hydraulic rear suspension and mine is pretty tired. I think if I resealed the valve it'd go a long way but my plan is to just replace the hydraulic stuff with some bilsteins because everything associated with self leveling costs stupid money, including engines themselves because the pump is driven off engine and mounted to front of head. Bah, don't go and convert it. It's such a nice system when it's all working properly, the parts for it are surprisingly cheap. The most expensive (common failure) bits are the accumulators, which you can find for around $75 each online if you wait. You can rebuild the level valve for $20 in o-rings. The rear shocks are like $300 each, but almost never fail, they're just hydraulic pistons. The only thing that really kills them is failed accumulators. All the hydraulic lines use quick rebuildable fittings, so you just need to source hose for them and you're set. I don't (but probably should) run the ridiculously expensive febi suspension fluid, I think I have iso 46 hydraulic fluid in it right now. Now that I have all the leaks fixed I should "invest" in the proper fluid. I don't drive it in the winter/snow, though (gently caress rust), so I don't have the cold weather issues with it so much. I have an 84 wagon I fought with and learned on, and after coming out the other side, it's a fantastic system. The first time you put a lot of poo poo in the trunk and fire up the engine, you'll be addicted to the stupid thing. If you have any questions, give me an ask. EDIT: I also swore and yelled a lot at vacuum leaks, transmission problems, power door locks, and auto climate control. All that stuff working properly in fantastic. Fix it, it's worth it. chrisgt fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Jan 12, 2017 |
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Jan 12, 2017 00:44
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The pump doesn't produce very much flow, you aren't going to run anything too useful off it. The SLS pistons rarely fail, pretty much the only thing that harms them is running for a long time on bad accumulators beating the poo poo out of the seals. If you rebuild the level valve you might be surprised how it turns out. The trunk on these cars hangs so far over the back axle it doesn't take much weight to really sag the rear end.
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Jan 12, 2017 04:13
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Newer Subaru WRXs have the same problem with the clutch pedal coming loose. But that's because they make their cars (an engine parts) out of ever cheaper and flimsier metal each time. Why does the actuation pressure go up exponentially, though?
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Feb 4, 2017 16:16
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kastein posted:At least the car has good wheelbearings now. It was so bad Thursday night that I was starting to worry about making it all the way home from work. It's not bad until the ABS light comes on... because the bearing is so loose the tone ring hits the sensor.
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Feb 25, 2017 22:06
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Raluek posted:It's always amusing to me to see oem standard-issue stuff that's Hella branded. I first became aware of the brand with their conspicuous driving lights and horns, so I figured it was a "yea bruh, that poo poo hella loud/bright" marketing thing. Of course, I know now that that's not the case, but that first impression sticks, you know? Same, all the relays and some other electrical stuff on my Mercedes are marked Hella. I used to just think of them as the light/horn manufacture.
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Mar 5, 2017 21:43
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Did balljoints on Saturday then drove around a whole lot, the car now handles properly and there's less weirdness in the steering when cornering at or near max lock. Need to get it aligned properly but man it feels so good now. Lol it's amazing what difference balljoints can make. My mercedes went from having terrifying death wobble hitting bride expansion joints on the highway to riding like a luxury car when I replaced all 4 loose balljoints. Maybe new shocks, bushings, and steering damper helped, too...
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Mar 6, 2017 16:01
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Imperador do Brasil posted:First oil change on the '17 WRX. Easiest oil change ever. Filter right on top, drain plug not blocked in by anything...good work, Subaru. They also used offset connecting rod bearings which means you can remove the rods and pistons without splitting the block. This is a good feature since Subaru still hasn't figured out how to make pistons/ringlands not made out of silly puddy...
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Mar 31, 2017 23:41
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Was that an issue on the EJ25? On the 08 and up turbo models, yes.
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Apr 2, 2017 13:35
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It's probably a poor translation that doesn't mean anything close to what it says in English...
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Apr 24, 2017 12:59
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Night Danger Moose posted:
Looks fine to me, I'd run it without worrying. Yea, it's just the lip that's supposed to protect the rim from what happened to the rim. Unless you bent the rim and it vibrates, you're fine.
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May 19, 2017 23:38
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afen posted:Changed the rear brake lines. Going to get the car re-tested on tuesday, and then it'll be good for another two years! Nice routing with that, I've seen those repaired in a lot of really horrible ways. Obviously following the stock lines isn't possible without complete vehicle disassembly (thanks subaru), you did a good job.
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Jun 5, 2017 21:29
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Colostomy Bag posted:Or hell for any vehicle unless you can get pre-bent ones for a '57 chevy. There's no such thing as a simple plumbing repair on a house.... The second you touch the broken part, you break the next part upstream, and when you go to fix that..... Yea, I hate working on houses.
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Jun 7, 2017 11:56
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:Got some shocks (struts?) in the mail today, and prepped the MR2 for the dreaded replacement job. Gabriel shocks? I've never had good luck with those, or do they actually make a quality line? I put them on a subaru once and completely blew them on the test drive (an abusive test drive...).
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Jun 8, 2017 11:42
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The PO of my mercedes had it converted from r12 to r134a, it was absolute garbage. Between the undersized non-parallel flow condenser and R4 compressor, I just drove with the windows down. Also they didn't do it correctly and the compressor sounded like it had rod knock... I dunno. Anyway, I flushed the system, filled it with PAG oil and converted it to r152a. Idling in my little garage it was probably 90 degrees, the thing was blowing 36 degrees out of the vents. It's cold enough to make me uncomfortable on a hot day. My subaru also needed AC love, it's a factory r134a system, but I had the duster and I'm cheap so I flushed and converted that, too. It works amazingly, highly recommended. In more exciting news, my mercedes tried to klil me by dropping the hood on my head while I was changing the oil today. The spring mounts have been broken since I bought the car, the pockets fill with leaves and rust them off. This made me mad enough I finally fixed the problem. I welded cut-in-half links of chain where the spring mounts belong, and it works pretty well. Really annoyingly tight space to work, but totally worth the effort.  Next I need to replace the hood pad. EDIT: loving HELL i HATE PHOTOBUCKET (fixing with imgur) chrisgt fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Jul 16, 2017 |
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Jul 16, 2017 22:46
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Colostomy Bag posted:Yeah, they really hosed over a lot of posts spread across 10,000 forums. yea what the gently caress, they want something like $60/year to fix the problem LOOOL
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Jul 16, 2017 23:03
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I removed a front shock on my car, unboxed the new one, and realized it wasn't the right part. Further investigation reveals I bought REAR shocks... This is interesting since the car doesn't HAVE rear shocks, it has hydraulic pistons and accumulators. I had to put a turbofucked front shock back on so I can move the car. That's what I did to my car today.
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Jul 31, 2017 01:53
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monsterzero posted:By comparison this is EZ30D 
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Aug 13, 2017 11:49
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I had to work on my sister chevy metro. I hate other people's cars. Rusty brake lines in the rear, rusty evap hose thing. Replaced front brakes, replaced both front axles. Did I mention I hate working on cars?
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Aug 24, 2017 22:28
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Darchangel posted:
I hate working on daily drivers, how about that. Project cars, even other people's project cars can be fun. Slow_is_fast's race car is a loving blast to work on. Get ready for races, fix it out in a field during races, etc. But working on a daily driver? Soul sucking. I was a mechanic and it was the worstest poo poo, every day, day in and day out, work on neglected appliances.
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Aug 25, 2017 15:52
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I pay for glass service, that poo poo's hard to do yourself without breaking it.
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Aug 30, 2017 14:59
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If the subaru balljoint pinch bolt doesn't come out with minimal effort I go straight to heat. Put a shield over the CV boot so you don't melt it and heat the thing up. Since you actually have access to the back AND the middle of the bolt, you can heat it up and get some PB blaster in there. A few cycles of heating and cooling you can usually get them out without breaking. If you just go and hurf on a wrench you'll break them almost every time, there's really no excuse for that IMO. I know someone is going to cry about wheel bearing seals. Heat it quickly with oxy/ace or MAPP gas, get PB blaster or whatever in there, and cool it off. You'll be fine.
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Sep 7, 2017 21:49
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It is possible to change the lug studs on those without removing the hub from the wheelbearing. The rear is kind of annoying because you have to disassemble the parking brake, but it is doable.
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Sep 14, 2017 02:58
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How is that jack for servicing things under the care. Exhaust repairs, driveshaft, etc? It's hard to tell from the promo video, but it looks rather restrictive
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Sep 22, 2017 13:17
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The Big Green Moneyfucker was back in the shop again this weekend... I replaced a CV axle (wasn't actually the problem, more on that later). Welded a new piece of metal on the back of the muffler since I wasn't buying a new $200 muffler over 45 minutes of playing with the metal glue gun. Then I poked at the flaky oily rust on the differential ....  Fortunately a shop in Maine actually fabricates new covers...  I had to remove the brake line, found this in my box of goodies. I guess I've used this trick before. Pro tip: if you have 10mm brake fittings, don't have a flare wrench, and a 10mm open end is rounding them off, just hammer a 3/8" wrench on there. It'll grab just fine and break it loose without rounding.   I guess I never took a picture of it finished. I do have some pics of the old cover on the bench:    I beat on it with a chipping hammer to see how many more holes I could make... surprisingly only one. That would also explain why the holes are so big now. So after replacing the CV axle and all the rest of this poo poo, I took it for a test drive and pushed the 4wd button (toyota calls it 4wd, but it's really awd with an open center diff). The thing stopped moving, made a bad sound (tm). Look under and the front driveshaft is turning but nothing is happening... 2wd, it moves, locked 4wd, moves, awd? fuuu Pulled the ADD (front axle disconnect actuator thing) off and it was full of gearoil. I took it completely apart and found a failed o-ring, by some stroke of luck I had the exact right size in my AC service kit. Don't let it see me post this, but I think the Sequoia is all fixed (for now).
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Sep 24, 2017 04:16
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I did find a final product picture. It was just in snapchat. I noticed I got it on just a bit crooked, if you want to come cut it off and re-weld it, be my guest. I'm never doing this loving service again.
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Sep 24, 2017 12:29
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rdb posted:I didn't think Toyota diff covers were replaceable without replacing the whole axle. Thats impressive. They technically aren't...
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Sep 24, 2017 18:12
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Mental Hospitality posted:If I ever buy a used car again it's going to be an early 2000's Mustang or Panther body because I think they're so cool. I'm lacking a real garage to have another car or place to wrench on one. Apartment dwelling...Sad. This is why I drive 80 miles to work on my shitheaps. I just have to make sure they don't break bad enough they can't make the 80 mile drive... If I could afford to pay someone to work on the toyota I probably would... the mercedes is a fun project. The toyota is supposed to be a reliable daily driver...
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Sep 26, 2017 13:00
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Larrymer posted:I opened and closed a door. Oh you can do better than that... Possibly NMS/NWS for horrible rust, close your eyes if you're sensitive. Let's just say this one is in your toolbag if you've been shopping at Harbor Freight recently...    Subframe:  I actually drove this until the rear subframe completely cracked in half, then I ratchet strapped it together with 2x4s and drove it for another 6 months. It was a terrifying car to drive. The steering rack was also... ummm... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QArPq_j-lEU chrisgt fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Sep 27, 2017 |
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Sep 27, 2017 01:34
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Darchangel posted:Jesus. I mean, I know that poo poo happens, but it still amazes me when I see it. Never moving north. Yea... Crosspost from another thread, but this is what happened after some poking and prodding (and, you know, cutting it off) at the diff cover on my toyota. poo poo rusts bad  FAKE EDIT: i thought this was a different thread... it's been too hot, I'm dainbread. chrisgt fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Sep 27, 2017 |
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Sep 27, 2017 18:11
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Darchangel posted:Oh, I get it. I've followed kevbarlas' van thread, after all. It shouldn't amaze me, yet there it is. Much like I'm still amazed at my users' stupid computer tricks. That guy has the patience of a saint. He went from knowing nothing about metal work to being a complete pro by nothing more than extreme patience. I wish I could do it, but alas, I usually want things fixed ASAP so I hamfuck things until they work again...
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Sep 27, 2017 23:03
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Foreshadowing ... I'm going to get you, P0135 and P0155
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Oct 3, 2017 02:42
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:New pads and rotors on the wife's CX-5. Mazda is actually cool enough to put a threaded hole in the rotor hat that goes all the way through so you can run a bolt in there to push the rotor off the hub. Threads are M8 x 1.25 if anyone has a similar project approaching. Pro tip: the rear caliper bolts off a late 4th gen F-body (and probably a million other GM cars) are this exact thread and will do the job. I ended up twisting the head off of one of mine, but that was my fault more than the bolt. Since I live in maine i've never actually had that trick work for me. Either the threads are a big ball of rust, or the rotor is so stuck the threads just rip out. really nice idea in theory, though ... Might have had something to do with the fact I worked in one of those shops you take your car to if you want another year out of it. I finally got fed up with the halfassed way we were supposed to repair things. Anyway, I digress..
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Oct 15, 2017 01:47
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That doesn't usually happen for me until the bulb burns out.... My Mercedes doesn't have a CEL, it's weird... I'm so used to being warned the engine might have gone missing.
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Oct 16, 2017 01:45
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Root Bear posted:Went to open the hood for a routine fluid check, and the release cable decided to break instead. Now you have lifetime fluids, perfect!
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Oct 16, 2017 13:12
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Enourmo posted:Finally got my stuff from Kenwood, and the stereo is mounted in the Crown Vic. All these months I thought the stock speakers were either blown, or just that crappy compared to the system in the MSP. Turns out no, the speakers sound fine, i just get crap FM reception, through either the Ford stereo or this one; currently playing some Pink Floyd over Bluetooth and it sounds excellent. I don't know about the ford specifically, but some cars with window antennas have an antenna amplifier. If you install an aftermarket deck you might have to hook it up to the blue/white signal wire, or the antenna amp might be blown. Or it might just be that window antennas suck in general.... I guess it's also possible the wire from the antenna is broken where it leaves the glass.
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Oct 28, 2017 23:56
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KakerMix posted:now to find a headunit that doesn't look like a 90s rave. I have a pioneer DEH-X4900BT and really, really like it. You can set it to any colour you want, it's not ricey with stupid features (except the dumb party mode bullshit you can turn off), and does all the basic stuff you'd want. Bluetooth, ipod/android over usb or bluetooth, phone calls with an external microphone, spotify, pandora, etc. I'm probably going to get another to replace the miserable aftermarket head unit someone had installed in my mercedes in 1998.
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Nov 3, 2017 01:31
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KakerMix posted:
I have had pretty good luck cleaning windows with claybar.
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Nov 10, 2017 16:14
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Larrymer posted:What did you use for a cap (junkyard one?)? I always thought of just putting a tire valve in my cap and hooking it up to my compressor with a regulated output of like 10-15psi instead, but I too built one of those instead. Aaaaaand I've never used it. I've done it with a junkyard cap. I used a propane grill regulator, the're like 0.5PSI or something, then just hooked it up to my shop air compressor. You really don't want/need a lot of pressure. Put too much pressure into the reservoir and you'll blow it off the master cylinder or break it...
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Nov 16, 2017 01:20
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Darchangel posted:What's the solution for cars like my AE86 where the cap is rubber and just pops on? I've seen the solution for old-style GM with the big rectangular cap with wire retainers. Is it something like that with a strap? A bit of strapon action never hurt anyone I guess 
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Nov 16, 2017 21:50
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Added more miles to the turd
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Dec 3, 2017 15:45
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