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Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level
I've been working on redoing my Golf's engine for a while now and figured I was far enough along to share some pictures. I'm currently digging into the transmission which worked but leaked like a sieve. I was originally going to have someone else do it but no one wanted to touch it due to age and rarity.

I'm upgrading the car from the original 1.8l VW RV engine to a 2.0l ABA block with brand new 1.8l head, this required more extra parts than I thought at first. The old block didn't hold proper oil pressure and the old head ticked like crazy.

And here's the new assembled block. The paint came off the valve cover when it was cleaned so it got sprayed to match the car. I need to get the transmission reattached to confirm the timing is right but otherwise it's ready to go.

Here's the engine bay mostly ready to go but still pretty grimy.

This has been a few months coming since I am doing this mostly alone when I can and I've never changed an engine before.

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Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level
Not all today but I got the trans put back together and ready to go back into the car. Completely resealed with new friction material. Everything looked to be in great shape other than the first largest set of friction rings were pretty worn down. A splined shaft fell out on me at one point. Here's hoping the diagram I had was accurate.

I tried to clean it but there was so much grime I ended up giving up. I filled the torque converter and reattached it to the flex-plate. It is held on by a massive 3 10mm bolts. I'll be attaching the trans to the engine when I can get some help getting it into position.

My replacement exhaust came in. I had to replace it since the old pipe's diameter is too small for the new downpipe. As a bonus the cat the PO added is getting taken back off since the car left the factory without one, likely was put on to pass emissions some time in the distant past. Also note how may times the old one has been patched.

Shaking the old muffler sounds like a can of rice, likely not a good sign.

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level

Darchangel posted:

I don't know about you, but in my experience, the torque converter goes on the transmission first, so you can ensure that tit engages the pump correctly, then you bolt it to the flywheel when you mate up the transmission. That said, my experience is also with American RWD cars with automatics, so YMMV. Check your service manual.

How the splines are designed on this trans you can do it either way since they helpfully tapered the end of the pump shaft into a cone so it'll guide itself into place when inserted into the torque converter, but you are right that is the correct way to do it. The flexplate to torque converter bolts are quite hard to get to in this car and it came apart this way so I figured it'd be ok. I know some other models the torque converter locks into the trans and or has a non-tapered pump shaft and yeah that would be a bad time if done backwards like this.

The engine is back in the car now and is in the process of being hooked back up, I'll get some pictures eventually.

Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Sep 4, 2018

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level
We got the engine back in the car and started it, it sounds so much healthier than the old engine it's crazy and it started almost immediately. I need to grind down the alt bracket since it is just barely touching the alternator fins, a side effect of the taller block I guess. No issues so far but the real test is trying to make it move under its own power. Also gently caress the distributor bolt location forever, there isn't anywhere to get a wrench on it thanks to a million things next to it.


I am also waiting on the rearmost segment of the exhaust to come in. Apparently someone miswelded a hook so it couldn't be installed the correct direction so they're sending a new one that'll be here Monday. Aiming to get a test drive in in the next few days.

For the trim your best bet is to find an enthusiast group and ask them, parts tend to be cheaper than on the open market. Failing that ebay is sometimes good just use the part number if you have it to search. I got a complete exterior trim set for my VW for about $110 from eastern Europe.

Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Sep 16, 2018

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level
You guys should come change my oil filter.

There is no underside access, the power steering lines fill the gap between the engine and radiator below it and the A/C lines are right above it. That is the best picture I could get of it.

Speaking of my Golf, it is back together and it drives! It shifts so smooth now I thought it wasn't working at first when I didn't feel it jerk from 1st to 2nd.

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level

Vanagoon posted:

Are any of the oil filter relocation kits that they make decent?

Because I mean, gently caress that.

I may want to look into that since on top of being impossible to get to that filter is massive for some reason only VW knows. Does anyone know of a kit that would work for this car? Then again A/C and PS were not the most common options on these cars so I'm sure base models and GTIs were a lot easier. I got the grandpa special, 4 door highest trim that had an auto, A/C, PS, no cruise, shoulder belts only (the lockout was bypassed too), no central locking, no ABS and it smelled like old man cologne.

The filter in question:

Note the helpful directions to torque it to 14 ft lbs.

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level
Yeah the guy chose an odd selection of options and nothing was standard because 80's vw. Even catalytic converters were an option (mine doesn't have one). The higher trim got you fancy velour seats, different external trim and steering wheel and some other stuff, he did spring for premium sound. I didn't believe it had no lap belts either but the built sheet that came with it confirmed it. On top of that they were door mount shoulder belts. I got rid of those right away because what the gently caress.

Edit: Behold the front shoulder-only belt. That tab on the left attached to the door before I cut it off.


GnarlyCharlie4u posted:

Mechanic pulls out impact gun with oil filter attachment

Somewhere someone has done this.

Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 13:22 on Sep 17, 2018

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level
Yeah I've heard stories of the terribleness of the 090. My VW has the 010, the 090's newer sibling that shares a bunch of parts. It is still 3 speed and looks similar but doesn't have the stupid long shaft or milkshake exchanger (mine's the transaxle type). It did have the seal from the final drive to the rest of the trans go though. Not sure of other differences but the 010 is a lot stronger than the 090, or at least the late ones were. It is still an old power draining slush-box though but I can't be arsed to regularly drive a manual in Atlanta.

Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 13:51 on Sep 17, 2018

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level
Got my Suburban's dash back together and reinstalled, scavenged a bunch of parts and the trip counter gear off an '89 cluster and installed some LED bulbs. It looks so much better than before. I never realized the pre-90 suburbans only had 5 digit odometers since mine has 6. Bad news is somewhere between the repaired gauges, new dash pad and radio adapter plate the dash plastics that fit over the cluster no longer fit. Going to try it again tomorrow but I had to give up for tonight.

Also yeah old trucks just have mushy brakes compared to modern cars. I accidentally do old man style sudden stops at low speed in my new car all the time from pressing the brakes firmly like I'm in the truck.

Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Oct 23, 2018

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level
Got my golf mostly taken apart for the transmission I was expecting to find out UPS destroyed it in transit. It was the only one available in the US that I was aware of so I have to figure out what to do now.

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level

dissss posted:

I've never seen any Toyota clock fade or fail even after 500,000+ KMs in old Hiaces.

Anyway the new design Camry and Corolla no longer have separate clocks.

The one in our Camry is intermittent and will vary in brightness from almost off to full brightness over time, Mine's a 4th gen with 340k miles (~550km). I've just been too lazy to fix it.

Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Jan 24, 2019

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level
Weirdly enough diff oil, even with the limited slip additives doesn't really smell to me. ATF though makes me gag every time I open a jug of it.

I installed one axle on my VW and finally got the starter installed today. Would have gotten the other one in too if my torque wrench didn't stop working and cause me to snap a bolt off in the axle flange. (This VW uses 6 8mm triple squares to hold the axle to the trans.)

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level
Fair enough, I guess the stuff that was in my VW was changed at one point then, otherwise it would have been 30 years old when I pulled the transaxle.

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level

toplitzin posted:

Captain Picard, how many wiring harnesses are in my dash?

Did they just add new ones every time they installed a radio? I have a car that has 3 harness connectors stock but those don't look original.

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level
No kidding on the heat, I've been putting off installing a new gas tank in my suburban due to it. My garage has a lovely AC unit that somehow works after being left outside for a year then falling out of a second story window but the truck is just too tall for my garage.

I guess it's time to replace my 89 VW's radiator that sprung a leak in the aluminum on the backside instead of the 30 year old plastic side tanks because VW and install some hatch carpeting I got at the junkyard. I swear I'm always fixing it but it really is the most complete of my projects.

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level
I mean I changed a vacuum check valve in my Volvo 960's smog pump system and zip tied the pump back in place while I wait for replacement mounts to arrive.

Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Jul 29, 2019

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level
Put a new radiator in my Golf, found out the old one was a cheap aftermarket one from the late 90's and now my car runs cooler. The replacement is something like 20% thicker than the one that was in there and actually has top and bottom strips.

Also went to the junkyard and got injectors, coils, and a spare smog pump for my Volvo, $65 for over $700 in parts.

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level
Finally fixed a single cylinder misfire in my Volvo 960 that only happened after driving a certain road a certain way. Turned out to be a failing ignition control module, 2 bolts later and it's running great.

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level

Verman posted:

Mobil 1 synthetic at Costco is often $25-28 for cases of six quart bottles. At it's highest somewhere around $36. I just buy multiples when it goes cheaper.

Yeah it's a great deal, I wish Costco carried the oil weights I need though. They don't have the right weight for 5 of my 6 cars, 5W-40 and 15W-50, and even the auto parts stores don't carry the 15W-50 in gallon sizes so I have to go to Walmart for 3 of my cars and my Walmart is super sketchy.

I finally got done applying some protective clear coat on the top of my Suburban since the clear and the paint was nearly worn through on top, apparently there was a recall for the paint on my truck back in the 90's and it wasn't done because "The paint was fine" then. I really need to get the thing repainted properly but it is really expensive so this should buy some time.

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level

Grakkus posted:

Changed the oil and filter on my new to me BX. Drained the old oil before realising two things: One, it's impossible to reach from above due to the intake and almost inaccessible from below due to the placement of the AC compressor. The remaining gap is barely wide enough to get one hand in.

And two, judging by how rusty it was, the PO probably took one look at the available space and thought "nah".

Ended up gorilla gluing a strap wrench to the loving thing, nothing else could get it to shift. It's like a rule that the first oil change on a car I buy is a ballache.

I feel your pain, I think I posted it before but my MK2 Golf requires an endcap wrench on a swivel that has to be put on the filter ahead of time from above then feed an extension between the 2 power steering lines from underneath to free if someone overtightened it (Which it was when I bought it), then once it's loose you have to pull the AC line back a bit further than you are comfortable with to actually fit it out and if you're not careful you will mush the radiator fins. It also comes out the top and points down so you can't even get a good grip on it to reinstall and you can't pre-fill it as you have to turn it sideways to get it in the gap. They clearly designed it to be easy to change if you don't have AC or PS but mine has both. German Engineering at its finest.

As for what I did lately, I rebuilt my radio in my Volvo with one from the junkyard and changed every bulb I could find in the car so now I can actually see the controls at night, I've been putting it off since the fake wood in a 97 960 is basically unobtainium if I crack it, I can't even find a replacement cupholder for the thing.

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level
I replaced the oil dipstick tube on my Volvo 960 so it's no longer leaking when parked on my hill of a driveway and I can get a semi-accurate reading. It still reads lower than the manual says for some reason but at least it's on the stick now.

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level
I replaced the IAC in my old 2000 Camry my sister is using while she goes to school today, the aftermarket one that was in there took a dump so I reinstalled the original 320k mile one and it's working great again. For anyone wondering I had to replace the throttle body on the car at one point and figured a lower mileage sensor would be better. Car's up to ~360k-370k miles now and looks like it'll get another timing belt at this rate.

Also re-adjusted the kickdown in my Golf since the thing was shifting really hard when barely on the pedal and it seems to be better now, the adjustment is now almost to the loose end but I suspect it's just due to the trans being a different code with a possibly different adjustment range. (010-TNA vs 010-TJ). Now if I could just make it stop engine braking every time the idle switch is hit (every time I try to coast down a hill) that would be great.

We also got some new seats for our Volvo 960 from a junkyard a few days ago along with some fresh carpet and other bits, these were pulled from a '98 V90 but are compatible and have lumbar adjustments! I was surprised how nice they are.

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level

slothrop posted:



Replaced a coil pack. And 4 spark plugs.

Coming home from work on Friday I noticed a bit of a stutter when I first put my foot down. The whole way home the old girl seemed down on power.

I guess #2 cylinder coil pack decieded to give up the ghost. That'll be 100 dollarydoos thanks!

Could be worse, I discovered today the reason cylinder 2 on my 2000 Camry keeps tripping a misfire code is that the cylinder's compression is way down (90 instead of ~150 of all the others), and we just put new tires and new injectors in it. At least reman'd heads for this are only like ~300 but it's still going to be annoying to change it.

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Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level
Making progress on swapping the head on my Camry. Should have it out pretty soon but I was too tired to keep going.

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