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Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

Time to work on my new old Primera today. The plan for this week and next is to fix any body issues, seal the undercarriage after fixing, clean the throttle body and the cable, re adjust the handbrake (you can pull it into low earth orbit at the moment) replace the rear right brake completely. Re align the suspension and do a general service (all fluids all filters)

Here's the car





Here's the first pic of today's work, old right fender and the replacement. It's so dusty because I stored it for over 10 years for the previous owner (and now obviously don't have to pay for a new one)




Tomorrow, if I find the time to take better pictures, I'll post how far I have come with the body work and the brakes. But a friend also wanted to send his seat ibiza over for "a small service" so we shall see how much time remains for my car.

Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Sep 21, 2017

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Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

Fo3 posted:

My BMW e34 doesn't have a bulb in the check engine icon, only the US market cars got them that early (1990). Apparently if I fitted a bulb it would just flash all the time for no reason unless I did some electrickery with diodes/resisters or whatever.

They don't have a check engine light

It's integrated into the service/inspection indicator as well as the check control.

The only exception being diesels with eml "elektronische motorlast Regelung" which means electronic power control.

Because all e34s share the same indicator cluster just in different states of population, you can also find an EML and traction control light on yours even if you don't have them.

The only thing that came later was airbag indicators (my 91 525I 24V doesn't have airbags and I have not found an indicator light either)

Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Oct 24, 2017

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

Also tire season is starting here and I'll have to go through about 8 cars in the next couple weeks to change them.

Here's how I do tire changes actually because I get super pissed about corroded hubs and stuck on wheels.

1. Remove wheel (first time on this car involves a lot of swearing and cursing about the former owner and mechanics)

2. Blow out dust and loose dirt from the wheel well and clean everything after removing loose dirt.

3. Apply shiny plastic protectant and rubber care to all plastic and rubber surfaces and hoses inside

4. Reapply conservation wax to metal seams

5. With one of the abrasive pucks and wire brushes (I only use both in air die grinders), remove all traces of rust from the hub

6. Remove transfer corrosion from the wheel with abrasive puck (after thoroughly cleaning the wheel from all sides)

7. Clean the wheel bolts if they are rusty with a wire brush

8. Apply ceramic anti seaze or copper paste thinly onto the contact surfaces. (don't do this if you don't know the meaning of "thinly" you don't want to clean the inside of your wheel barrel from technical anti seaze.)

9. Reassemble and torque.

Takes about an hour for a full set of wheels and hubs. But if you ever had to change s tire on a highway with on board tools you will know why this is worth it. Also it is satisfying to remove a wheel and the hub looks absolutely perfect and it comes off without resistance

Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Oct 24, 2017

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

Epic license plate

And I agree those welds are nice.

If I wasn't making exhausts myself I would consider buying at that quality if the price is right and the fitting is as good as you say

E: give the exhaust a bit of highway time before judging if it's actually too mellow. Depending on the packing you can gain quite a few dB within the first couple heat cycles

Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Oct 25, 2017

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017



I use these a lot due to the convenience of having a soldered and sealed connection with just the use of a heat gun or lighter (later one is especially useful when you are having to fix something on the road). i keep like 3 or 4 of each size in the Car all the time.

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

Metal Geir Skogul posted:

Do you have a source for not-bootleg ones of those? I've purchased a few packs over the years, from various sources on ebay/amazon/ali/DX, but 100% of them were either really old and didn't shrink properly, or had all of the adhesive melted to one side, or something strange like that. They seem they'd be perfect but up until a few years ago I lived in kabumfuck ID and couldn't source anything locally.

I just stuff them in my pockets at work... that might also explain why i never had a bad one.

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

alright, long time no see my friends

Today i have a little picture series for you, just some good old maintenance

The Vicitm (not mine luckily), a VW Lupo SEAT Arosa



The girl who owns this car reported a lack of power and stuttering when accelerating. Given the poor service record i suspected the Spark plugs and e voila




Error 404 - Electrode not found

those are Laser welded Plugs, so its not as easy to see where the actual Electrode material ends and the base material starts, but those were done, no question.

The threads of the new Plugs get a few brushes of Copper paste as an anti seize. I do this on Engines that lack regular maintenance to reduce the risk of damaging the Cylinder Head when changing seized Spark plugs (it happened to me once... i learned my lesson)



A quick test run verified that the Engine ran a lot smoother and didnt choke on acceleration anymore. very good.

Now for the main act. Drum Brake service with new Pads.

i have a personal distate for these kinds of Drum Brake systems. Maybe im just incredibly unlucky and always get the seized ones but oh well....

The Drum/Hub seam gets some penetrating oil through the lug holes to make life a bit easier on removal



after the first few hammer strokes it was clear that the wear correction moved the old pads into the drum and created a seam, so that the correction had to be undone manually before i could remove the Drum. I have no pictures of this since its mostly poking around in a dark hole until you get a hold of the wedge that does the auto correction. a little wiggle and tappy tap and the brake pads go back into their inner position.


The Drum hided a dirty secret



The old pads were riveted onto the carrier and all pads were broken. luckily the Handbrake mechanic seized up and needed fixing before more cracks occured and the compound disintegrated into the drum.

taking apart the Brake system with the hub in place was a no no, given its seized state. So off went the hub Cap to reveal the german "Vielzahn" nut.


with that one out of the way and a few cussed springs and Handbrake cables later, the pads and their guiding plate came out finally



here is a picture showing the Handbrake levers on the old and new pads (its the silver hook on the backside)



the hooks on the old pads were completely seized and needed to be hammered into place to remove the hand brake cables.

Upon inspection of the new ones i noticed that they moved rather "rough" back and forth. i added a bit of heavy weight oil and moved them 100 times. the oil that came out of the riveted connection was full of metal particles. it was obvious they were never worn in at the factory.

Since i suspect this as the reason why the older levers seized up so bad, i decided to give it an extra bit of love. usually i would have just moved them a coupled more times until the oil that came out looked better, but theres ways to improve it past that.

I took a bit of coarse lapping compound (the stuff you use to lap valves into the valveseats) and dilluted it with heavy weight oil. i added the mix to the riveted connection and moved them back and forth another 100 times. after flushing out the gunk with brake cleaner the motion was perfectly smooth.

i added a very little amount of high Temp wax to the hand brake rivet and sealed it under a layer of Brake anti seize. the Wax will become viscous at higher temperatures and keep the riveted connection lubricated while the anti seize keeps the wax in and protects the connection further against brake dust and metal shavings.

the Brake backplate and the cylinder got their contact points sanded a bit and after a thorough cleaning i added anti seize to all the contact points.



The Drum itself had the nasty edge on it from "behind" the pad so i decided to not only sand the friction surface by hand, but also use an air grinder with a 3M abrasive disk to smoot hout the drum edge again... that will make installation a lot easier

here you can see the edge on the Drum just after it came off. i tried to highlight it with an LED light, its the white line on the top edge that shows how the edge protudes over the wear surface.


Smoothing the edge



the Result



finally Cleaning everything



On the other side, right after dissassembly of the Drum, i noticed some very distinctive poo poo stains



a weird black compound sticked to the cylinder and the boona condom looked greasy.

some poking reveiled the culprit




a new hydraulic cylinder was due... luckily i managed to get one just in time.

i re adjusted the Handbrake cable play and bolted the wheels back on. next week is final adjustments after initial wear in to perfect the travel.

thanks for reading!

Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Dec 22, 2017

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

Raluek posted:

Haha the same thing happened to me. Parked the car because I thought it had piston slap from a very worn out motor (which it was; lots of blow by). Like a year later I go to pull the engine to swap in a fresher one, and as it's hanging on the hoist I notice one bolt, one dirty hole where a bolt has obviously been missing for awhile, and one shiny hole that looked newly vacant. Found my rattling noise.

Friend of mine bought a BMW 540i with one of the 32V V8s. The engine has a tendency to undo its oil pump bolts and deposit them in the oil pan. When I drove the car onto the lift I noticed a rattling already. After removing the oil pan I found 3 happy oily bolts inside. Word on the street has it that it get critical when you lose more than 4. Since I had some carbide drills laying around I actually took the time to cross drill all the bolts and lock wire them in place. A good bit of work but in my opinion the safest way to deal with stuff that can't even visually inspected once in a while

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

Sadly found out that the next project is right around the corner



Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

KakerMix posted:

You guys are right.

The headlight bulb part number: 90981-17011 24V 75/70W, HALOGEN WHITE

:v:

I've got a lot to learn, but that's all a part of the fun anyway. I'll be looking a whole bunch more too but yeah seems like the whole thing is running at 24v. That throws all sorts of stuff too like the stereo right?

For anything that doesn't need full time battery supply, use a DC/DC converter (so called step down converter) you can get them on Amazon or eBay for a few bux. Just make sure they satisfy your power needs.

For constant supply like the radio memory, pull a wire to the plus of the battery that has the chassis ground on it. and solder in a fuse and a diode of adequate power rating or a shotky diode of you are fancy and want to safe some power. Generally though the power loss in the diode is dependent on the current which should be low aniways through the constant supply. This of course also works for the 12v ACC supply but a step down converter is just a lot more convenient when working with an isolated component you want to power.

The diode is just a protection by the way, in theory yo can go without it but I always feel a bit safer with a diode when messing with different voltages. Never wire anything to a battery without a fuse though.

Of course if you are sure about the wiring you can just take the 12v plus by using the plus from the battery that has the chassis ground for everything.

Do not use the ground of the other battery for anything. This side has +12v DC to chassis ground

Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Jan 31, 2018

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

Friends it is time

Time for a new project.

Beware of plentiful pictures coming up

Due to me changing from one horrible industry to another one and changing to a job that requires a significant commute to the middle of nowhere, I decided to buy a diesel.

Was looking at a bunch of E46 320Ds but they are very sought after nowadays due to lack of particle filter and lack of lovely unreliable engine.

Since we are technically a Nissan garage I was also looking at Nissan diesels but I find SUVs disgraceful and the primera P12 diesels look horrible.

However, 130 km away a used car dealership listet a 2004 nissan almera N16 with the big 2.2 136 HP common rail diesel and a 6 speed. The car only had 78.000 km and the dealer was asking 1700 Euro for it.









The car was not registered, had no inspection and was listed for export/commercial customers only (which means the dealer explicitly sells without warranty)

After a successful test drive and a good look around the vehicle I decided to buy the car and picked it up with our flatbed truck which I forgot to take pictures of.

Here's the car in our shop.



We noticed already before purchase that the front bumper was cracked from below so we already expected some minor front damage.

The mask is revealed.



Nothing too bad, the mask carrier is slightly twisted and the intercooler has a little dent but nothing that warrants replacement.



The right fender bolting point has been badly fixed. Mucho corrosión is the result.



And so, the corrosion is no more. I mainly use air grinders with a variety of abrasive wheels and wire brush wheels which quickly gets rid of everything.

The holes were filled with tin/lead based solder after the surrounding was pre tinned. Everything was primed with a zinc base coating and then standard paint build-up with filler and base coat.



This will out live the car now.

Also found this flower growing under the fender. (it was plastic, must have been left there at the shoddy repair job)


The rest of the front mask was de rusted, zinc primed and finished with a synthetic wax.





Little bit of overspray on that cable shield, I am disgraced.



With the intercooler removed, the front carrier also got de rusted and zinc primed but also got a thick layer of synthetic and over sprayable underbelly protection to cover against rock chips and the like. It was later topped with synthetic protection wax too.



Everything's turning out nicely.



The injector rail support broke, I welded it and it got a zinc primer/base coat/clear coat treatment.



Now it was time to fix the front bumper. I have a new rear bumper still in the basement of the shop that I'll use to replace the hole of the trailer clutch once removed but no front one, so we shall fix.





I like these spring loaded staples a lot



The front side is filled with plastic usable resin.



The rear is reinforced with a UV hardening GFRP pad and cured, then a Sandable layer of GF resin is applied.



The sanding commences



Filler and priming done



A good result, I'm happy with it.



I bought 16' wheels second hand, they were in rough shape but had no curb rash. One had marks from a tire iron though.



All cleaned.



With the old rubbers removed I fillered the marks of the tire iron and repainted the wheels.



When customers buy vehicles with all seasons, we replace the OEM tires. These are 4 brand new bridgestone from 2019 in just the right size. I like. I take. It would be junk aniways.



All these will be replaced...

I'll post further updates as I moved from the front of the car to the back. One of the rear lights is cracked but I already have a spare one that my polish friend who picks up the damaged body parts got me.

Suprisingly good vehicle so far. I took a peek below the side skirts and there was only dirt but no corrosion. The right rear fender has some small bubbles but those will be gone soon as the ever angry wire wheel removes the last bits of rust.

Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Jun 26, 2019

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

The story of my new old car continues.

Today I fought the bubbling rear fender.

After a quick grind it turned out as expected, another shoddy repair job :argh:





This area was not repaired at all, just covered in layers of bondo and rust



The old bumper mounts were all broken and hot glued by the repair place.



Good thing we kept some fitting ones in the basement of our shop.



Time to fix.



I was hoping to keep the paint damage below the edge of the flaring so I filled the main holes by mig brazing and used heat sink compound on the paint above.

Sadly the corrosion was stronger than expected, but there can be no mercy.



All the corrosion and bondo is removed and I filled the surface imperfections with a tin/lead alloy after pre tinning the area.



Finished result. All metal. All perfect galvanic corrosion protection. This will also out live the car now.


Next week I'll start fixing the rear gate which means removing the spoiler and rear window
:frogc00l:

Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Jun 28, 2019

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

this still counts as minor fixes i think.

The E39 that i got for myself after it was totaled by a truck was a proper fix.







awwwww yeah thats a good joint... 100% Metal, 0.00% Bondo :getin:










Sorry for the picture Spam

Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Jun 29, 2019

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

Aaaand the horrors of the rear bulkhead unveil!

Let's remember where we are picking up



The car had a rear accident that appears to have been badly repaired, but at first it seemed the damage was limited to the right quarter of the rear bulkhead.

Well...



It turns out that the rear bulkhead was actually replaced. But to go with the theme, the replacement was absolutely poo poo in execution.

There was no weld priming done whatsoever and the entire spot weld edge had to be redone, so the rear bulkhead must go.



As we are approaching the end of my metal art and fabrication skills, my dad (a body shop expert and chassis rebuilder for over a quarter century) took over the intricate metal rebuild tasks.



The panel is out



Damage due to the poo poo repair




Removing the remaining glue with a blow torch



The spare wheel pan looks goofy. The tar pad came off in pieces. It appears some damage happened.



A very thick layer of glue covered something here.



:stonk:
what the gently caress

It appears the repair shop ended up pulling a hole into the pan and........ Riveted another panel below it? :itwaspoo:

I have not seen such fuckery in a long time. But it doesn't matter. Everything must be repaired and so we continue.



Hammering the pan into shape. At this point we removed so much rust thr cars insides had a brown dust coting :argh:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACZqYmP98r0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jX-YxYn67rg


The pan is just hammered into shape to make a cardboard model of the rear pan and replace everything up to 10cm above the punctured section. This will be interesting.

Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 09:08 on Jul 10, 2019

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017



:getin:


E: we leave it at the rough cut for today. Adapting this to the proper geometry of the rear pan and matching the factory weld seam should take a few more hours at this point.

Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Jul 10, 2019

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

Did a full paint correction on a friends Golf 1 convertible.

Before


After





Frontal area got a 3 stage paint correction with a rotary polisher, last stage orbital polished. Sides and rear 2 stage orbital

Full car got a pre wax cleanser and gloss enhancer and a concours carnauba wax finish.

All plastics got a treatment with Koch Chemie Plast Star (with silicone) the stuff is absolutely great.

Quite happy with the result.

Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Jul 14, 2019

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

rdb posted:

Did the oil and fuel filters on my 6.7 cummins tonight. Was smart enough this time to drain the rear filter. Was not smart enough to disconnect the WIF sensor and instead spent 20 minutes on my back under the truck loving around with the rear NOx sensor connector.

No visible leaks but still has an extended crank after sitting so I hosed up somewhere.

does the diesel filter have a hand pump? did you prime it according to the service instructions? if its self priming via the circulation Pump then its normal to take a few more cranks after you changed diesel filters.

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017



This also removes hairline scratches

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

I bought it specifically for that, but it also very much depends on the pad you use.

I use 135mm visco-fiber pads that are basically the big version of the white fiber pads the average car shop has laying around in a drawer to put on a cordless drill in order to fix minor scratches in paint.

This is absolutely not like polishing paint, you'll need a beefy rotary polisher, speed and pressure and lots of polish and it will make a mess, but it works.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WFqn3skj0k


3M has a complete line of abrasive products specifically for glass but it's all hella expensive so I only ever used the polish. It'll do most of the stuff that you absolutely can not feel with a fingernail. For more you will need the diamond sanding discs which cost more than a new windshield.

Mirka swears that it's famed abralon disks will do glass sanding but I never tried that and they are also expensive but not so much as the 3m glass sanding stuff. (see video above)

Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Aug 3, 2019

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

Panty Saluter posted:

Any tips on washing an unwaxed surface? Just got the car back from the body shop a few weeks ago and was directed to not wax the car for a month to ensure proper curing. Of course the car is quite dirty and I'd like to remedy that without damaging the brand new paint. Gentle rinse, sponge? Mild soap recommendations?

You can use a shampoo with carnauba content.

That's a very weird instruction though. Many body shops will use a last stage protection directly after any finish corrections especially because fresh paint is sensitive.

I never experienced negative issues using carnauba or synthetic waxes on hardened fresh paint and I suspect the damages of the environment on unprotected fresh paint are a much bigger risk.

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

I finally figured out the rattle on the passenger side in my almera n16 that was driving me insane. It turns out Nissan left a few unused sheet metal nuts below the glove box to hold the blower regulator on other trim models and one of these nuts would rattle at exactly 1500 RPM.

Also silenced the front doors, cleaned the seat belt rollers and seat rails and all the other poo poo you can do with the interior half removed. Feels 10 years younger now.

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

Why does common sense for threaded connections stop at oil filters?

Check the torque spec and if it says something about single digit Newton meters, re evaluate your life choices if you took any kind of tool to it except for a 1/4' torque wrench.

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

Well I just had my first accident.

Ran over a tree branch that fell on the country road in a storm.

Managed to rip off the side skirt on my girlfriends Citroën and got stuck under the rear left wheel.

Car lost traction and wanted to go sideways, but I was slow enough to stop it before the ditch on the side of the road.

The undercarriage below the side skirt got bruised a bit, but it looks like it won't need any body rework, just some undercarriage coating and a few new clips for the side skirt that managed to stay in one piece.

No pictures because it's a lovely, rainy, stormy night but I suspect there's gonna be quite a few when I tackle the repair next week.

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

Panty Saluter posted:

All the 0 means there is it flows better at low temperature, so the worst case is that is changes literally nothing

Yeah that's not completely true.

Multi grade oils are a thin base oil that get their high temperature viscosity through polymer additives which have a different viscosity/temperature gradient than the base oil. A 0WXX oil has a thinner base oil than a 10WXX. this is important because as the oil degrades it doesn't degrade towards the middle but towards the base oil viscosity, leaving you with a potential inadequate high temperature viscosity at maximum service interval.

This is of course a non issue if you disregard the ludicrous service intervals and change oil every 10k km. That's really the best advice ever when it comes to oil. Forget the 7 herbs and spices, forget unobtainium oil just get whatever part synthetic or HC synthetic oil checks your manufactures specs, match the correct viscosity for your temperature and usage and change that stuff frequently.

Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Jan 11, 2020

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

A Small Car posted:

Adjusted the valves in the truck yesterday,


I like to do the adjustment with the truck running,



Is that some truck specific thing because hell that doesn't sound like a normal procedure to me.

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

But but but

If I have to construct another thread for the passenger side I can't use the mirror command in CAD

Oh the humanity.

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

The weirdest clutch I ever had under my foot was a manual Ferrari F360 and it felt like the clutch actuation could not keep up at all with the speed at which the engine was willing to change revs when you went into the upper power band.

It was also the hardest clutch I remember.

The engagement point was so far up the travel though that it didn't feel necessary to fully push down the pedal and you could just shift it at half the travel. Kinda what a manual truck feels like where at the end of the travel you have the transmission brake so you never depress it fully unless you come to a full stop.

Loved the open gated shift pattern though. Very satisfying clunk.

Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 23:42 on May 25, 2020

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

STR posted:

Somehow my original gas struts on my hatch are original, and it still stays open fine.

The trim, on the other hand, whacked me in the head when it fell off the other day. PO had it partly held on with duct tape (the PO was a fan of duct tape in general), the rest of the clips finally noped out. Need to hit Autozone or Advance and get new clips so I can get it secured properly.



I got whacked in the head by a trunk gate once. I replace them by feel nowadays. The few € aren't worth the days of headache.

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

Not Ride related but my garage workshop finally has running water which is a huge deal to me.



now I can finish up cleaning all the plaster stains on the floor from the masonry work and start moving storage space and tools in.

Next big step is a scissor lift and compressed air.

E: the actual working space



In total about twice the space of the image. 85 square meters.

Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Jul 22, 2020

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

It was time for some polishing on my resurrected E39









E: in that first picture there thats not scratches but reflections from my buddy Hans little web ( near the Lamp). He guards the Garage against mosquitos and bugs.

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

McTinkerson posted:

I decided to check the oil level in my RX-8 after filling up the fuel tank. This is after burning that entire tank drag racing this past weekend.

It did not burn a drop of oil...this is bad. The oil metering pump is electronic and the ECU considers it healthy (no CEL). I have the oil injection rate bumped up over stock as well. So there's a blockage somewhere or the pump has failed in a way not to trip a trouble code.

So I guess I have a decision to make. Tear the intake manifold off to find the source of the problem and correct it or go full premix and start wearing this hat: https://webiginc.com/collections/hats-1/products/all-y-all-need-hat

I'm leaning towards full premix since the engine is a series 1 13B-MSP and Mazda through the full oil injection system redesign of the S2 agrees that it is lacking. So project thread update incoming.

This may also result in a mechanical failures post sooner rather than later.

Get that good 2 stroke oil and straight into the tank with it.... Well premixed I mean.

E: i ran 2 stroke mix in my common rail diesel too before I got a Vpower card and changed to 100% Vpower. But that's a different topic Re: sulphur free diesel with bio percentage.

Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Sep 5, 2020

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

As i mentioned in the monthly thread I'll be starting the process of importing a Skyline R34 to Germany in the coming months.

I'll likely misuse the threadhere to post my experience with the process, the importer, the selection and ultimately the car.

To start off: the import will be handled by high Import performance GbR in Wain, germany and the car will be important to the UK by Harlow's Jap Autos or JM imports then trailered to Wain and prepared for german TÜV.

The beginning of the process is a 2500 Euro down payment that will be used as a proof of interest and to pay for the initial work of the importer. This will happen if I am satisfied on the contract side and got some positive feedback from other import specialists.

My budget for a registered German vehicle is 35000 Euro which, according to some first talks, will be plenty for a manual R34 GTT in perfect condition with significantly less than 60k miles, which is a requirement from my side.

Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Oct 1, 2020

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

Panty Saluter posted:





Like I said, at least it was a clean break. I could only prep one mating surface so I hope it's enough, because I do not want to fool with it again. I'm dreading the starter swap less than reassembling that thing and getting it to sit properly in the dash.

yes the car is filthy shut up

Friend of the plasticy repair, i can suggest the Hot Stapler from your nearest chinese Import reseller to tremendously aid in such work.


Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

Panty Saluter posted:

Does it melt the plastic together? I guess AliExpress has it?

it heats up metal staples that melt into the plastic pieces, across the crack. The staple remains as a reinforcement but the plastic also fuses together again. Its really good and has replaced almost all glue-on-plastic action for me. Also very satisfying to use.

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

Bought it











MY2007
45000 km
Full history since original purchase.

Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 14:04 on Jan 20, 2021

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

It has the carbon roof if you are wondering.

E: also in good bmw fashion it had the engine malfunction lamp on when I bought it.





(it was on for low battery voltage due to storage)

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

Yep. The import fees, TÜV conformity and registration would have practically doubled the price of the Japanese auction, so I thought why not take that sum of money and buy something local.

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

Yeah I linked them from the offerings website but now rehosted on imgur.

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

In the age of the silentChain (aka skippaTeeth) not having a belt isn't really a guarantee anymore to not have to do a timing job after 60k miles.

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Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

Ah yes the famous single cell catalytic converter

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