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Suburban Dad posted:Are you replacing the studs as well? Those are what get damaged (stretched) when over tightened, your mangy old nuts are probably file (unless rounded, etc). I've inspected the studs and they all are fine and am not seeing any evidence of stretching so I'm not replacing them. Really I'm just replacing the nuts as a precaution and I got a really good deal on new ones.
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Jun 25, 2019 14:54
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Even with the new heavy duty pitman puller, the original arm has decided that it doesn't actually want to be replaced. The arm itself was fine and the joint where it connects to the relay rod is actually fine too. I was going to replace it because I was already under there and had a new arm. If it's wonky in the future, I'll just have to replace the steering gear box. With the front done, I swapped out all the lug nuts. It also meant it was finally time to do what actually started me on this bit of work: front and rear output shaft seals on the transfer case. The transfer case had the drain plug on the very bottom, rather than on the side at the lower edge, like all of the other transfer cases I've ever had. It was nice having the fluid drain in a nice predictable direction and not shoot out and hit me in the side of the head. The fluid that drained:  Getting the prop shafts off was a pain in the rear end. There wasn't enough clearance for any of my ratchets/sockets so I had to get by using combination wrenches. The front was a lot more of a pain than the rear. Dropping the cross brace probably would have made it easier. I didn't get pictures of most of it, given that I was handling oil and grease. New output shaft seals installed. The rear seal had been replaced before and was probably fine. The front seal looked like it was original. Original front seal:  Original rear seal:  New front seal installed:  There was silicone gasket maker in between the washers of the flange nut and the flange, so I put Permatex on both. Lubed all the various prop shafts' grease fittings. Recommended amount from the owner's manual: "Until it comes out." Repeat every 15,000 miles.
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Jun 28, 2019 13:32
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STR posted:Looks like it had water in it. Someone didn't change it after crossing flooded roads/etc - they'll suck in water through the breather (at least, differentials will... I assume transfer cases will find a way to do so too). That's what I'm thinking, that original front output shaft seal was just a felt sort of thing in a metal retainer, I suspect if you went through enough deeper water it would get infiltrated pretty quickly. Looking at the PPO's records, the last time he changed the transfer case's oil was 60,000+ miles ago.
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Jun 28, 2019 14:37
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Suburban Dad posted:You contribute so much to this thread and often enough I feel like you need your own thread. Ha, thanks, I should. I started one a while back specifically for the Datsun, then with all the other stuff going on I just sort of defaulted to posting in here. I guess it's time to resurrect it.
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Jun 28, 2019 14:57
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Waffle House posted:
Yes please. There are a set of original Chastain's for my 1981 Datsun 510 online, but I can't quite bring myself to drop $500 on them for a car I bought for $350.....yet.
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Jul 10, 2019 16:24
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Replaced the rear upper control arms on the 2005 Saab 9-3. Nothing too problematic with them, the whole job was maybe a 1-1.5 hours.  The outer bushing, despite looking fine, was completely worn, with lots of play. I received front wheel bearing / hub assemblies for the 2002 Dakota as well. I haven't actually had the wheel off to confirm it's the bearings that are a problem, but given the noises they are making, I would be very surprised if they weren't a problem.
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Aug 29, 2019 23:01
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Colostomy Bag posted:Always like these pictures. Us rustbelt types would eat off that suspension. Sadly, this car will probably succumb to that soon. It was a North Carolina car for the first 13 years of its life, then I bought it and moved from North Carolina to Northern Michigan. I'm hoping to keep it at bay as long as possible, working on this is so much more pleasurable than on my girlfriend's 215,000+ mile Honda Element. Things I finished up today: Installing the new wheel bearing / hub assemblies in the 2002 Dodge Dakota. I've long suspected at least one was bad. The driver's side one seemed ok, but the passenger side bearing made a crusty noise spinning it with just moderate hand pressure. On the plus side, there's no need to disconnect the steering knuckle. I wasn't making much progress getting the hub out of the knuckles, so I figured there must be a trick. I was hitting it with a sledge and trying to separate it with a chisel. Turns out the trick ( as used by several mechanics on Youtube) is to hit it with a sledge and chisel.   Pretty new ones in place (before bolting them in):  The old caliper pins looked a little bit rough, I did order new ones, but the more I got looking at the old ones, the more I decided the surfaces were in pretty good shape. I threw them in my drill chuck and ran them through copper scrubbing pads to get off the big stuff, 200 grit sand paper to make sure they were flat, and 1500 grit wet to get them smooth. I think they turned out just fine.  A little test drive and the weird bearing noises are gone, so I call that a win. Up next is....nothing planned, that doesn't seem right... Oil changes I guess. Oh yeah, put new brake rotor set screws in on the Honda Element.
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Aug 30, 2019 20:46
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Suburban Dad posted:I still don't understand why Honda does this. The lug nuts will do just fine (just like on every other car ever) at holding the rotor on. It's like they looked at it and said "Yeah customers/dealers will like to drill this out in the future." Every. drat. Time. (and of course make them Philips head) I do have a manual impact driver now. I suspect that will help in the future.
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Aug 30, 2019 21:01
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StormDrain posted:I think I had good luck with a slide hammer, which at least helps you get the force straight out rather than eccentric and having it jam. I mean you're done so oh well, maybe for he next guy. I'm starting to encounter enough situations where I think to myself "a slide hammer would be really handy right now" that I may breakdown and buy one.
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Aug 30, 2019 21:43
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Not my ride, but my Mom's 2005 Toyota Sienna: She'd had it in for something and they said her front lower ball joints needed to be replaced. So replaced those. In the process of replacing them heard a rather obnoxious high pitch noise from the front passenger side. Found that the clips on the brake pads were not quite the right size and must have gotten knocked a little loose so were now singing loudly. Then found on the other side that the brake caliper pins were seized (pins on the noisy side were fine, but I did add grease). The pin holes in the caliper brackets cleaned up without issue and looked fine. Installed new brake pad clips (of appropriate size), new ball joints, new caliper bracket boots and pins. One of the bolts that came out of the old ball joint on the driver side was a little fuckered so a new M12-1.25 was in order. Everything seems to be fine. It's 200,000 miles in and still running strong.
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Sep 16, 2019 12:22
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I finally had all of the parts, tools, and time, so it was time to tackle the front wheel bearings and lower control arms on the Honda Element. I wasn't 100% sure the bears needed to be replaced, but I figured with 200,000 miles on them it wouldn't hurt. First thing I noticed taking the knuckle off, someone was here before:  I know the lower control arm on that side had bushings that were shot, so I wonder if someone installed the camber bolt to adjust for it. It wasn't bad getting the LCAs or knuckles off. The driver's side LCA didn't seem too bad, the bushings seemed reasonably stiff. Comparison of the two (driver's side LCA to the right in both):   Passenger side "bushings": https://i.imgur.com/qggTwQh.gifv https://i.imgur.com/3E58QfN.gifv The most difficult part of the whole endeavor was pounding out the hubs and removing the ABS sensors, because Honda ABS sensors will apparently never go without a fight.  (gently caress this ABS sensor, also for the other ABS sensor) Passenger side looks like it might have gotten a little toasty:   These snap ring pliers were definitely not up to the task, but I did manage to get the snap rings out (I bought a larger, better pair before I installed the new rings):  My new bearing puller/press giving me conflicting messages:  Piece of cake (and by that I mean easier than trying to pound them out with a mini sledge):  I decided to break that passenger side bearing apart to see if I could see any obvious issues. The outer races/bearings look like they weren't too happy:  I'm still waiting on the new passenger side ABS sensor and need to get an alignment done, but it does sound better. As a further preemptive work I think I'm going to replace the caliper studs and the passenger side rear bearing (Again. I just replaced it, but I am pretty sure I over torqued the axle nut on install and don't like the noises it's making).
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Sep 22, 2019 20:41
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I have the Element back together. Things done in this round of repair: Right rear bearing and hub New rear CV axles Drain and replace differential fluid It was my first chance to play with my new toy:  Holy hell was getting that hub out a piece of cake with that. The old right rear axle was a little messed up:  Casualty:  It went back together thankfully, although I am missing one of the pawl springs. Not a big deal as I only use it to tighten bolts, just a bit surprising to have the whole thing pop apart on you. Might need to add a touch of Loctite to those faceplate screws. Drives and rides just fine. Still makes an occasional clunking noise over bumps in the road and when weaving the steering wheel back and forth and a little bit of one if I bounce on the rear bumper. I've replaced literally everything else in the suspension, so I am suspecting it is probably something in a rear strut. List of what has been replaced in the rear: Sway bar bushings Sway bar end links Knuckle bushings CV axles Upper control arms The differential seems like it is fine, no chunks or shavings came out when I drained it. Diff mount also seems ok. The prop shaft seems solid, at all its attachment points. Trailing arms bushings seem to be ok. Edit: also redid the front brake rotors, pads, and caliper pins. Passenger side had a seized pin.
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Sep 29, 2019 15:18
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Looking at the Element again, made note of the times it sometimes made the clunking noise: -When transitioning from forward to reverse or vice versa -When going over bumps -Weaving the steering wheel side to side. I had my girlfriend slowly forward and reverse the car in the drive way. I did get the occasional clunk and it seemed to be coming from the differential area. A common issue seems to be the differential mount or the differential dynamic damper wearing out. Looking at the differential mount, the rubber is definitely cracked and I think I see where the bracket may have been hitting against the underside:  Interesting note: You might notice that there is no differential dynamic damper. Normally I believe they are suppose to be mounted on that long bolt sticking out of the middle of the mount. They are supposed to help reduce high speed vibration but the rubber can wear out and also make noises. I haven't found anything stating it is strictly necessary, I'm guessing at some point in the vehicle's past it wore out and was removed. Any way, the plan is to do the good old fashioned windo-weld repair on the mount first. If that doesn't work then I'll replace it, but I've had good luck with that in the past.
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Oct 1, 2019 12:26
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ThirstyBuck posted:And because I bought a BMW a window regulator immediately poo poo the bed and the valve cover gasket needs to be done. I also discovered that it is a lot more involved than the cover on the S52. Now it officially belongs to you. What engine is in that? I recently did the valve cover gasket on the N54 in my 335i (my window regulator also went out within a couple weeks of buying it). That wasn't the most pain in the rear end repair I've ever done, but definitely involved and time consuming.
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Oct 7, 2019 15:05
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I noticed there appeared to be a leak from the Dakota's differential pinion seal and finally had a chance to work on it yesterday. The nuts attaching the drive shaft were a little reluctant to come out, but nothing the impact couldn't pop off. I found that the swivel attachment was a little to bulking to fit directly on the 15mm socket. What worked best was the 15mm socket -> 12" extension -> swivel -> 4" extension (for the top bolts) -> impact wrench.  Nothing (up to the seal) put up a struggle. This is the seal itself before I had done anything to it.  Dodge seemed to use their orange gasket maker on it which made the seal itself a pain to get out. A little bit of tapping in around it with a chisel, a little bit of a torch to get the sealant a little toasty, a little bit of clipping away at it with pliers and it finally came out. The new one went in without too much drama, just a bit of tapping. As a bonus, I found the other spring from my HF torque wrench that launched itself when the face plate popped off working on the Element: 
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Oct 27, 2019 19:24
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Last week my dad tells me he thinks there's a dust shield scraping in his 2013 Impala and asks if I can take a look at it. I will preface this by saying that my dad is pretty hard of hearing and I'm pretty sure he turns his hearing aid off when he's not actively having a conversation. I pick up the car and immediately see that the front passenger side rotor has some pretty groves in it. Driving it with no brake applied gives you a pleasant metal on metal scraping / grinding that you can also feel. Thankfully, his house is two doors down from my house.   Notice the incredibly uneven wear on the rotor.  Still plenty of the brake pad's back plate left:  Thankfully the caliper compressed just fine and there are no leaks anywhere on it. Rust appropriate for Midwest winter driving.  The brake fluid looked fine. All of the caliper pins looked to be in great shape. I cleaned and re-lubed them all.  New Duralast (official brake rotors of NASCAR) Gold rotors and pads installed and ready to go. Still have to take it for a shake down drive. 
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Jan 14, 2020 02:17
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Panty Saluter posted:Is that a high carbon content rotor? Never seen one that color before It says it is. Also claims to have "Z-cladding" to inhibit corrosion.
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Jan 14, 2020 03:45
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Panty Saluter posted:Be interested to see it after a few miles I'm sure it will have a lovely patina of rust like everything else up here. Its fancy coating rendered useless.
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Jan 14, 2020 18:27
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Follow up on the Impala. For those wondering, these are the rotors after putting two miles on them:  (Yes, that's a buttload of anti seize on it, I've spent way too much of my life trying to get off wheels that were stuck on sure to corrosion and given how my dad takes care of his cars I don't want to take any chances, don't give me poo poo about it.) The brakes sound and feel fine (yay!). The ABS and stability warnings did not go away, however. I don't have a super fancy, shop scan tool. My Bluetooth ODBII reader didn't show anything. I popped the wheel off and checked the resistance on the sensor side. It was at ~1.0-1.1 kOhms (I'm not sure what spec is, but that doesn't seem too far off).  I check the voltage on the vehicle side of the harness and it seemed ok ~4.8 V.  I'm not sure if the Impala requires a full drive cycle to reset that. A replacement hub/bearing/sensor assembly would only be about $60, give or take, so it would be more to take it in to get a diagnosis. Any recommendations on the next step for fixing the ABS/stability alarm? nadmonk fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Jan 15, 2020 |
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Jan 15, 2020 00:27
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Motronic posted:If you don't want to guess..... That's awesome, thank you.
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Jan 15, 2020 01:42
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Suburban Dad posted:I think the sensors only need to go above around 15mph and if they're reading good, codes should disappear. Good to know. That's a bummer for me though. I definitely got it above 15mph. I also disconnected the battery for a bit last light and the alert remained on.
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Jan 15, 2020 12:52
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The saga of my dad's Impala has come to an end (for now). While I did get Motronic's recommended scan tool yesterday, prior to that my dad bought a new wheel hub / bearing / wheel speed sensor assembly (his words have said 'no rush', his turn around time on buying parts have said 'so when's this getting done?'). I told him that's where I likely thought the issue was but couldn't confirm without replacing or the scan tool. So by Wednesday I had the wheel hub. Trying to get it off I ran into problems. Not because I couldn't get the hub loose from the knuckle, it knocked loose relatively easily. But because the CV axle spline was fused with the hub. I tried a slide hammer to get it off, no dice. I got a 5 ton gear pulled. Wouldn't budge. Putting the spindle nut on and hammering on it was deforming the nut and end of the spindle, so I said screw it and went ape with the mini sledge (aka the most useful tool in my garage) and opted to replace the CV axle given it's already abuse filled life.  Here is the new hub assembly installed from the backside of the knuckle. I have no idea why GM opted to route the connector like that. With the CV axle installed there's maybe 5-10mm clearance between it on the wire.  New hardware put together:  A test drive this morning confirmed both that everything is working as it should and that getting above 15mph will clear the ABS / stability warnings.
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Jan 17, 2020 15:47
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Colostomy Bag posted:GM does weird poo poo (surprise!) with ABS sensors. I didn't look at the rears on my dad's car, but I did see them on the parts page I was looking at, basically the sensor coming right out the middle of the hub. I guess not wrong, just seems odd. 
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Jan 17, 2020 18:02
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STR posted:Ask me about tweaking a 20 ton press after giving up on all other methods of separating the axle from the hub (including using an air chisel). I keep thinking I need to get a torch. Given the number of times I've resorted to a sawzall to get out bolts or ball joints, I'm sure I could find many uses for it.
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Jan 18, 2020 13:14
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Finally got the Element back in working order. Despite replacing the brackets and caliper pins, the front driver side caliper was still dragging. I had initially thought the piston boot looked fine. But upon second examination it did look to be folded on itself a little weirdly. But no leaks or anything. I ended up replacing both front calipers, because the originals had 215k miles on them. After draining and bleeding the system, everything is (finally) working the way it should. The rear calipers do look a bit crusty, so maybe preemptively replace those at some point. I know, I know, if it's not broken, don't mess with it.
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Feb 11, 2020 13:19
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I took the snow tires off and put the all seasons back on the 4Runner, Element, and 9-3. There by ensuring we've had snow 4 out of the last 5 days.
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Apr 21, 2020 13:49
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Colostomy Bag posted:Counteract it by buying an expensive snowblower. I already did that at the beginning of winter.
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Apr 21, 2020 14:27
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I finally got the Saab out and about, so it could trade its place in the garage with the 2008 335i. Aired up the tires and took it for a shake down drive after sitting all winter. The pulling issue I felt right before parking it appears to have been caused by low pressure in the tire. I didn't feel any evidence of pulling or misalignment. Yay! However, I did completely forget about the fact that I had been having issue with the driver's side door lock actuator. Enough that I already bought a replacement. So I got locked in and had to climb out the passenger side door. After spending a half hour looking for WHERE I actually stuck that box and my trim removal tools (turns out those were in a random box of Datsun parts), the Bimmer surgery could begin. I might have been able to do this without trim removal tools, but drat did they make the job easier.  There were about 8 clips on the middle trim piece which in turn covered 3 torx screws. With those off, the door card was held on by a bunch of pretty standard trim clips. Under that, was a layer of insulation held on with some sort of butyl adhesive.  I got the insulation off by carefully slicing the adhesive and pulling the insulation off. It took a bit more time, but was worth it as it was able to just stick right back on after I was done.  Oh BMW and your interesting latching connectors.   I know some people do this job by just disconnecting the window from the guides and taping in place in the up position but I opted to just take the window out. Resting safely on a wood pile, as is specified in the official BMW E90 shop manual.  I took out the latch mechanism and the door handle bit. I suspect I could have done it leaving the door handle piece in place, but it seemed a lot easier to pull it all out.  Comparison of the new door lock actuator on the left and original on the right:  Ignore the broken tabs, that was my doing trying to pop it open and see what was going on inside. The replacement is a BMW OE replacement. It's interesting to see the design changes from the originally installed unit. Fun fact: that is held in place by 3 screws. The holes those screws go into in the lock actuator are not threaded, so BMW recommended procedure is to use new self tapping screws to mount it. All lubed up and ready to slide it in:  (The astute among you might notice that the door handle mechanism is not pressed out all the way into place, which would make it impossible to get the lock core in place. If you are: congratulations, you would have been saved about 10-15 minutes of frustration and swearing trying to figure out why that wouldn't slide in properly.) Door card popped back on. Identify what is wrong in this picture:  If you said that the inner door handle is just sticking out and that the inner handle actuating cable is sitting on the driver's seat, you are more observant than I was. It didn't take long to fix, but I did need to pop the door card off again and mount the cable. When all was said and done, the new lock actuator worked perfectly and it really wasn't that terrible of a job to do. And because I don't know to quite while I'm ahead, I decided to spruce up my headlight lenses a bit with the 3M restoration kit. Not a perfect job by any stretch and the car needs a bath badly, but it does look a LOT better.  I did scorch a little spot on the other lens, which chaps my rear end a bit, but it isn't terrible and isn't in an incredibly noticeable spot. Now I also need to address the 3 completely separate light failure codes that it is giving me. At least one is the lamp for the angel eyes on the passenger side. I have a replacement lamp already because it's gone out in the past, however, it always just starts working again. Also, to replace that lamp, you need to remove the front wheel and inner fender liner. And that's not something I really feel like doing right at this moment.
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Apr 27, 2020 13:26
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Colostomy Bag posted:That post reminded me to look up how to replace a non functioning lock actuator on the passenger side for a Jeep. It actually ended up being cheaper, or barely more (it's been a while since I bought it so I don't really recall), for me to buy the driver and passenger sides as a set than just buying the driver's side individually.
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Apr 27, 2020 15:47
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I popped the old lock actuator apart to see if I could find the failure mode. My guess was a messed up nylon gear. I'm reasonably sure none on these were broken during the disassembly of this part.   
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Apr 27, 2020 16:51
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I ordered what I thought was the correct parking brake cable for the '88 4Runner. It was not:  I dumbly assumed this was just an updated design, but the bolt pattern isn't the same and the connector at the end of the spring is different:  I have the proper cable ordered and on the way. I'm really glad my driveway is mostly level. One thing I did notice while I was unbolting the old parking brake cable from the fire: https://i.imgur.com/bHL37V6.gifv One of the studs for the exhaust/PAIR system (I think) seems to have stripped out its hole.  I did have a slightly larger bolt on hand and appropriate tap:  Well crap:  Nothing a slot for a screwdriver via cutoff wheel won't help:  You've got to make sure you torque down those regular head screws appropriately:  I didn't have to screw it far beyond that flange, I had a stubby 3/4" socket that was able to fit in there without issue. 
nadmonk fucked around with this message at 17:21 on May 4, 2020 |
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May 4, 2020 17:12
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Steely Dad posted:That is way better than most MIL cars My former MIL used to have a Conquest. Sadly gone before I came along. My current MIL has a thing for British roadsters. I think her current is a Triumph Sunbeam. Now if I can just convince my FIL to sell me his P1800.... I might even take the Studebaker Hawk.
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May 5, 2020 12:19
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:What is a Triumph Sunbeam? A mental fart on my part. No Triumph Sunbeam that I'm aware of, not sure why I thought that was the model. It might be a Triumph Herald that she has?
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May 5, 2020 16:59
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I finally receive the proper front parking brake cable for the '88 4Runner. I had clipped off the old one just passed the firewall, I figured I needed to actually remove the parking brake handle to get the other end of it off.  I am not sure what that switch does, it might be the weird aftermarket light the PPO put on the rear bumper. A quality wiring job:  Thankfully, I have a box of ends and a set of crimpers:   Fixed! Whatever it is... It's a little hard to see the new cable running behind the other stuff:  Going to put the pivot back the front parking brake cable connects to back on, I dropped the rusty e-clip on the ground. Can you find it? I could not:  (Terrible Robot found it in the picture in less than an minute, so your benchmark is set) Thankfully, I have a box of metric e-clips. All back together:  The parking brake works fine. It turns out I did NOT have to take out the handle, I just had to undo the switch at the base of the handle. That provided that last little bit of travel that gave enough space to remove the old cable and install the new one.
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May 9, 2020 23:45
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While replacing the parking brake cable, I noticed this: So I fixed it with my crimpers:  (not pictured: it slathered in liquid electrical tape to protect it) But in the process, I did this:  That's the line for the aftermarket oil pressure gauge. Fast forward to today when I received the most adorable compression union:    No leaks with it running, we'll see how it holds up. The slathered where they ran it through the firewall with a bunch of silicone from the looks of it, so yanking the old line out would have been a pain.
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May 15, 2020 23:03
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chrisgt posted:I'd honestly get rid of that gauge. The line broke that easy, what's gonna happen if you whack it with the toe of your boot. Also, you're never going to look at that gauge down in the footwell anyway. I'm not a big fan of mechanical oil gauges in the car. My old mercedes has one factory and it always kinda gives me the heebie jeebies. Thankfully, where the line is run there isn't a risk of kicking it. The line got broken when I was taking out old AC line and a bracket caught it. If it fails again I'll take it out.
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May 16, 2020 01:23
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casque posted:To be fair, he should know because he's got an oil pressure gauge. It dropping to zero does tend to be a pretty good indicator something has happened. More that likely I'll take it out and plug it before long. I wanted a quick fix that was slightly less sketchy than my temporary fix, which was to melt a bit if the open end with a lighter.
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May 16, 2020 12:29
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I finally received all of the parts I needed to repair the exhaust on the '88 4Runner. The sections of exhaust that fell off were actually in relatively good shape, it was just the clamps and joints between them that gave out.  Despite the appearance of this joint, it isn't moving and appears to be solid. Mostly likely a combination of sketchy welding and rust. Yes, it is actually sketchy as hell, no, I'm not going to replace the entire exhaust from exhaust manifold back right now. This is a "get our weekend farm truck slightly quieter" repair. The muffler was held up by a bunch of wire. Weirdly, the stock rubber mounts are still there and in great shape. I took it off to make repair easier. Then I discovered this:  Not sure if the previous owner did a sensor delete here or if it just fell out, but I didn't see a sensor or wiring flapping around. I cut off the studs and ground it flat(ish), drilled and tapped bolt holes:  Snipped a bit off the end of the tailpipe for a period and look correct cover plate:  Carefully shaped the plat and found matching bolts to complete the aesthetic and a plug of JB Weld to ensure it doesn't leak. Looks like Toyota OEM!  A good old PBR can acting as a bit of a gasket to ensure minimal exhaust leakage:  I used a local micro brew can for the other clamp.  Despite everything, the muffler itself is fine (considering the weird hillbilly custom 2.5" exhaust they put on the 4Runner). The tail pipe did also fall off, but I need an additional clamp to hold that on. I would have welded all of this, but I don't have a welder, so that seemed like a bit of a non-starter. The exhaust they installed is loud anyway, but after the repair, the noise level is (perhaps unsurprisingly, considering an entire section of the pipe fell out and there was a large hole just before the muffler) more tolerable. Next up, I probably need to replace the idle air control. When it's warm out and the engine gets up to temp it will sometimes rev high.
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May 18, 2020 13:06
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chrisgt posted:On my toyota, the ears of that flange actually rusted off and the studs just fell out... Both sides. It stayed like that for a year or two and then the sensors blew out about 2 weeks apart. I fixed it by tying them in with bailing wire at the roadside, then welding them in when I got home. Just a tack weld mind you. I'm pretty sure all exhaust systems exist to cause pain and suffering.
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May 19, 2020 14:07
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BlackMK4 posted:and, additionally, a flow restrictor in the clutch slave cylinder to control pressure plate engagement speed My to do list for my 335i is to remove the clutch delay valve (also replace the DMFW/clutch). The clutch feel is definitely weird and does have this very definite delay to it that is probably great for stop and go city traffic, but really just hampers things if you are looking to row more aggressively.
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May 27, 2020 13:42
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