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The taillights on my BRZ have started to leak, after looking for a while I finally found a set of the 17+ version at a decent price. As I had off yesterday I finally swapped those as well as a wingless trunk lid I've had for a while. In addition to the condensation seen here water was pooling in the tire well:  The trunk lid was off an FR-S so I had to debadge, first with floss:  I picked off this remaining goo with my finger nails:  I used some Scratch-X to get most of the rest off:  You can still see a faint outline, especially when wet, but for the most part its invisible. End result:  I also wanted to install a backup camera but ran out of light. The taillights were pretty straightforward, just four bolts and the wire harness on each side. The lid was a little more complicated, mostly because the Scion did not have a trunk release button, so I had to swap the entire wire harness off the Subaru one into it, rather than just the lock like I was hoping to do.
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Dec 25, 2019 19:36
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I’ve been having some snapping/clunking sounds from the front end of my BRZ when the steering reaches the end of its travel (like while parallel parking). Since I’m stuck working from home I decided it would be a good time to swap in some newer sway bar end links I had, and replace the sway bar bushings as a first step. Everything came apart easily until I got to the bolts that connect the links to the sway bar. They have a design where you need to put a hex key in the center of the bolt to hold it still and use a wrench or pass-through socket to turn the nut.  About half way through removing each side the inner hex area stripped out. On one I was able to use some pliers to keep the bolt from spinning and was able to get the nut off, but the other is stuck, I can’t even tighten it again. Soaked it in PB Blaster and still nothing. Since I’m replacing it anyway I decided the cut the bolt off, however I only had one metal cutting blade for my jigsaw and that only made it about a quarter of the way through it. Now I gotta risk a trip to Lowe’s and pick up a hacksaw or something to finish it.
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Mar 23, 2020 20:15
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opengl128 posted:Just get skinny vise grips and clamp down on the back side of it, always works for me. Arishtat posted:Skinny lock jaw pliers or a slim jaw adjustable wrench are the weapons of choice. The hacksaw ended up being the cheaper option so I went for that, took only about 3 minutes to cut through the bolt. I was worried the vise grips or locking pliers would still slip on the back part, since that’s the area I tried with the pliers I had (using a clamp to keep them tight). Bushings are supposed to arrive tomorrow but it’s supposed to rain all day so I doubt I’ll be able to get this back together until Thursday.
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Mar 24, 2020 22:17
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Got my new endlinks on, and new bushings in Then as I was torquing down the last bolt it just doesn’t stop spinning  I must have cross threaded it while pushing the holder down to get the bolt lined up. Now I’ve got to order another brace because those threads are destroyed and probably wait a week before making any more progress.
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Mar 29, 2020 05:37
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Finally got my replacement sway bar support beam delivered, and everything put back together and placed on the car I've only been able to drive two short trips about 10 miles/20 minutes each, but I have not noticed the creaking/clunking noise return yet. Aside from replacing a couple bolts that were missing on the underbody panels I'm not going to mess with any of this stuff for a while, and if the noise comes back I'll probably have to take it into a shop. Next on the list is getting a reverse camera installed  I was able to drill the hole and get the camera in place, however I can't fit the provided wiring through the rubber boots that connect the trunk lid to the trunk. I'm going to have to feed four individual lines through and splice some connections at each end. Hopefully I have enough laying around and won't have to order any.
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Apr 8, 2020 01:28
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 Got most of the interior behind the front doors stripped today in order to do some basic sound proofing. Almost got the headliner down as well but I scraped a finger open taking off the overhead light and called it a day after that. Will probably leave the rear seat back on as it really isn't blocking any surface and its nicer to lean on than the bare metal buckets where the seat cushions were.
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Apr 13, 2020 02:21
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Minto Took posted:Since AI asked for pictures, a few more when you click below. That Hakone Edition looks so good. Progress continues on my BRZ:  I was not looking forward to the seat removal because the garage is so small I can't open one door all the way and was worried about how I'd maneuver the seats out. The passenger's seat wasn't too bad, but getting the driver's seat over the console was a bit tough. Carpet was able to be folded into itself and pulled out through the trunk. If I had to do it again I would do the seats first just because of all the extra room you get. Today will be vacuuming, CLD tiles and maybe some foam if I have time. edit: overestimated my ability to get poo poo done. After about two hours my body had enough, rolling down those tiles is a lot of work. Will try to finish off the driver's side tomorrow. 
DrChu fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Apr 20, 2020 |
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Apr 20, 2020 19:14
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The Big Jesus posted:You're supposed to make the car lighter, not heavier If I notice the 30-35 pounds it adds I'll remove it. Or get a header and a tune.
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Apr 21, 2020 01:03
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I might even get the underbody panels that come on the more recent cars.
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Apr 21, 2020 03:12
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Wasabi the J posted:What kind of one would I need to look at on Amazon for a Subaru Depends on the year, could be CF15 or CF18. Try searching on here: https://www.diodedynamics.com/ I got their SmartTap CF18 used off of another forum and installed it in my BRZ today. I got it for the tap-to-pass feature rather than for putting in LED lights so I can't comment on how well they work for that, but their basic models are only  so probably comparable to whatever's on Amazon. Installation on the BRZ was a bitch, they put the relay way up along the steering column held on by a clip not accessible from the underside, so the new one is taped right next to the old one. Hopefully on other models its in a more sensible place, like maybe with all the other relays.
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Apr 30, 2020 21:11
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Minto Took posted:I put in a softer clutch assist spring last night and clutch action is much better. Hydraulic clutches are still weird to me. Did you get the MTEC spring?
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May 3, 2020 15:32
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Did some interior work on the BRZ today. For the past year or so I've been using something like this for an armrest. For the most part its fine, except if you want to actually use the cupholder to hold a coffee or whatever and then its just a pain. For a while Scion offered a sliding armrest that's much nicer (and much more expensive) and I decided that its worth the extra cost and to buy one. Well, I tried to at least. It seems it was recently discontinued and everyone that's listed new on eBay and Amazon are showing inventory they don't have. I know this because over the course of a month I ordered from every single seller and would get the order cancelled a couple days later. My options were then order the current new model which differs in color, or go used. I saw a listing for a center console with the armrest installed for significantly cheaper than just what the new armrest would go for so I ordered it. The one drawback is that I've never seen a used console/armrest combo that had the switches for heated seats. So that meant I'd either need to transfer the armrest to my console, or make holes for the switches on the used one.  My original is on top, new one is at bottom. I decided to try cutting holes, since it may be a couple weeks before the pop rivet gun and rivets I'd need to install it arrive, and worse case scenario if I mess it up I still have my original to fall back on.  I started by cutting a piece of paper to fit the space and trace the outline of the switch holes.  Paper was a bad choice because it was too flimsy even with a block of wood behind it as support.  Went for the next sturdier thing I had lying around.  Working much better so far.  Traced the pattern onto the new console.  I didn't have anything good to cut with, so I drilled a bunch of holes and then used a utility knife to cut the spaces in between.  After 20-30 minutes of filing and sanding it was looking pretty good.  Test fit worked out.  Both finished. The second one took less than half the time of the first. I'd say they're about 95% to being lined up exactly. The fit is tight enough that I could take a little off a side or two to help line them up even closer if it really bothers me but I don't think it will come to that. One thing the original has that this lacks is a lip on the underside that the clips on the top and bottom of the switches would latch onto, however these fit tight enough they don't move around at all unless you try to pull them out, so I don't think I'll bother with it.
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May 7, 2020 04:41
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Minto Took posted:Looks good. When I got the car there was nothing, just the double cupholder thing you could move to the front or back. I found a cheap armrest that goes into those cupholders but the whole thing was flimsy and not ideal. I've seen the hinged kind and they look nice, but you completely lose the ability to use it and the cupholders at the same time, and its awkward to have open when someone is in the passenger space since it'd basically be on their arm. I've also replaced the 12V socket in there with a USB line to the stereo and its more convenient being able to just plug in my phone than opening and closing the lid and maybe forgetting that its in there. AFewBricksShy posted:I just noticed you have PA plates, and your profile says Philly. Did you join the Philly 86 group on facebook? If not you totally should. We haven't done anything recently because of the apocalypse, but the meets are car nerd fun.
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May 7, 2020 14:09
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I think today may have been the last day in this cycle of BRZ maintainence/upgrades. Recap of the week: I left the doors as the last thing to soundproof since I can only open one at a time in my garage. While the panels were off I used that as an opportunity to update the window switches to the revised version. On the early years, the windows would drop about a half inch when opening the doors. Over time this would cause the weatherstripping to bunch up when shutting the doors. The only fix is to install the updated switches, I guess they have drop amount hard coded in them. My weatherstripping still gets pinched a little, but it seems like it won't be enough to let rain drip in. Going to look if there's some product that can help lubricate them a bit, as getting new pieces are $100+ per door.  The reverse camera is all wired up and working correctly. The only thing I don't like is I see a bit too much of the rear bumper (the blue strip at the bottom). The kit I bought was cheap and didn't include any shims to help change the angle. Works well enough though, when my routines reverts back to driving to work every day I'll appreciate this when having to parallel park multiple times a day, since the rear visibility out of the BRZ is terrible. The rest is all clutch related. Yesterday was the hottest day of the year so far and I drove around a bit with the windows down. I noticed I was getting a light whine when the car was in gear from about 2K-3K RPMs (higher than that it would be drowned out by other noises). This would go away as soon as I tapped on the clutch. I was worried it was the throwout bearing, but I just replaced that last summer and haven't driven even 3,000 miles since then. Also the clutch pedal started squeaking after not too long (which was also a problem before I replaced the TOB). I spent way too long going through forums and Youtube videos last night, and decided my course of action today was to lube up the clutch fork (there's some access from the top of the transmission, and lube up the slave cylinder. It was a bit cooler today, but I drove for about an hour and didn't hear either noise, so I'm hoping that was a success. Before driving I also removed the clutch assist spring:  Letting out the clutch pedal has always felt bad. I know in other cars people complain about clutch delay valves which would cause too much slip, but this felt the opposite. I think the spring mostly assists in pushing the pedal down, but it seems to have a snap-back effect as well. With the spring off letting the clutch out feels much better, at a cost of being noticeably harder to push in. I may try the MTEC spring Minto Took mentioned earlier as a middle ground. That little e-clip is a pain to deal with though, and my hand is scraped up from all the sharp edges up there. Besides a wash I think I'm done for a while. Once my area goes to "Yellow" I'll get some new summer tires (I'm thinking Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 in stock size), and then install a TRD Quick Shift kit and replace some exhaust gaskets I probably should have last summer when I removed the midpipe to drop the transmission.
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May 17, 2020 00:33
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honda whisperer posted:I just installed that mtec spring on mine this morning. It's perfect. I get plenty of feedback on the clutch engaging through my foot, the pedal is plenty light, and there's no slop at the top. I ended up ordering one a couple days ago since FTSpeed is having a sale. Having no spring in there has been better than stock, but it’s a lot more effort. Hopefully I’ll get it and be able to install next weekend.
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May 25, 2020 16:59
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Received and installed the MTEC clutch pedal spring in my BRZ. Can't say I like it so far, feels too much like the stock spring, in that when I release the clutch pedal I don't know how its going to react 50% of the time. Will try it for a little while longer before deciding if I want to go back to no spring. Also I managed to lose the e-clip that holds the pin in so it could fall apart at any time until I get a replacement (though it will be just the same as having no spring so no big deal). Also I got tired of the glare from the stock silver bezels so I went mad JDM tyte:  (does it count as JDM if it came from Japan but is obviously for LHD?). They're from some low-spec overseas Toyota model and you can just order them from regular dealerships. I was considering a nicer one-piece fabric replacement like the recent 86s and some BRZs have, but these panels were less than 1/3 the cost so here we are. In actual upgrades I got new tires, Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s in the stock (215/45R17) size.  I kind of wish I went with 225 width seeing how flush the tire is to the wheel and how much I have to parallel park. I'll manage though. After I took off my winters and put those on I went for a drive. Stopped at an automated car was since my car has not been washed in like six months.  Despite looking shiny the wash did a garbage job and I just ordered a bunch of stuff mentioned in the detailing thread.
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Jun 14, 2020 02:36
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Did an oil change today, was really mad at myself for not getting a Fumoto valve for this car. I didn’t make much of a mess but anything seems like a lot compared to no mess. I also installed the underbody panels that early BRZ/FR-S models did not get in the US.  The are the two big panels that are under the cabin area and basically bolt right in, there’s only one small panel that need to come off and some clips that need to be popped out first, that the new panels will make use of. Of course on the first clip I slipped and banged up my hand pretty good.  This plus the humid 90+ degree heat really slowed me down afterwards.  Comparison of the one small original panel and the full sized drivers side one.  Two of these for the rear between the cabin area and the fuel tank.  This is all that was original over the fuel tank. Again these bolt right in, and are even more obvious were intended to be there all along as there are three exposed bolts from the factory that do nothing until these are put on. No after pics because I was beat and there’s no room to get any sort of decent camera angle. I tried a brief drive on the highway t see if I could notice a difference but hit traffic almost right away so who knows. I’m hoping for a slight reduction in road noise, not expecting any aero benefits since I mainly only keep up with traffic. I do need to get a set of taller jack stands and a low profile jack. Any work under the car is a nightmare and I feel like half the time is spent just settings things up and awkwardly maneuvering around on the creeper.
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Jul 27, 2020 02:12
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On my previous car (MKVI GTI) the plug was at an angle and even with the valve in didn't dip below the splash shield. On the BRZ its at an angle as well, and the only issue I could see is if lever side ends up facing down and then maybe it would poke under the metal engine shield. As far as I can tell the drain plug on this car is not magnetic. I really only need to change the oil once per year so its not a big deal, it would just be nice to have when it is time for that.
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Jul 27, 2020 03:55
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Added a sub to my BRZ today: I had tried a spare tire one before but it was too tall so I returned it. After a few months I found out Cerwin Vega started making a shallow version (this is 4.7" tall, most others I've found are 5.7") so I ordered it. Its not a perfect fit, most because that wing nut in the center sticks up above the sub. Is there a fastener type like a wing nut that is more flatter and can be tightened by hand so I can remove it in case I need to get the spare out?
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Sep 13, 2020 23:18
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Wasabi the J posted:"wood coaster with a hole in the center and a nut glued in it" I have been considering getting a big metal washer and JB welding a nut to the center hole and then a couple around it for grip.
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Sep 13, 2020 23:35
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Minto Took posted:How does it wire up? I have a Sony XAV-200 headunit so I used the sub-out from that along with the remote trigger. Power cable from battery and used a ground near the factory amp. It also has high-level inputs if you want to tap into speaker lines instead, and it can use that signal to turn on so you wouldn't have to run a remote trigger. Wasabi the J posted:put a milk jug lid around the stack so you have something to grip on the edges, works better.
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Sep 13, 2020 23:58
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A couple weeks ago I postedDrChu posted:Added a sub to my BRZ today: Thanks to the suggestions here I ordered some knurled thumb nuts and a new threaded rod to make a new holder that’s more flush. As I was measuring what size to cut the rod I realized the wing nut wasn’t permanently attached, so I just removed it and swapped on the knurled nut.  As a whole the sub only sticks up about a quarter inch higher than the surrounding trays now. I’ll probably get some adhesive backed foam and build up the trays a little to even it out. I also recently picked up an header and started to get that installed. I had to remove way more stuff than I thought (and that all the tutorials gloss over) so I stopped for the day once I got everything removed.  Catted and unequal length. I would have preferred equal length but it was nearby and the price was right. Hope I don’t hate it! Also, since the I had to remove the O2 sensors, how do these look? I don’t think I’ve ever replaced one before and I have no codes, the rear one had a fair amount of build up on it. 
DrChu fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Sep 27, 2020 |
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Sep 27, 2020 23:05
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Tried to add a TRD Quick Shifter to my BRZ since I still have the car jacked up and exhaust off, what a disaster. Its basically a bracket the extends the bottom of the shift lever a little bit to reduce the throw length with a trade off of a little increased effort. Getting the stock shift assembly apart was no problem, but trying to put this on was all frustration. The boots constantly get it in the way but need to be the first thing put on. The bracket connected to the lever as expected, but then I could not get the linkage threaded through the bottom part of it. At best I got it halfway, and I enlisted the help of my partner to hold the lever in place while inside the car so I could try to tap it in with a hammer and still nothing. Getting it back out from the halfway point was just as much work. Also one of the steps is to loosen the driveshaft bracket for more clearance (which gives you about an extra 1/4"), but each time you bump the drive shaft it moves out a little more and pretty soon its out enough to vent the transmission oil smell which is lovely. Tomorrow I'm going to try connecting the linkage first, and then bolting that to the lever.
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Oct 1, 2020 02:35
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Minto Took posted:I was worried the TRD shifter kit would be a pain in the rear end. Finished it today and it was. I ended up lightly sanding the insides of the plastic bushings on the bottom of the bracket then spraying some WD40 in it and was eventually able to work the linkage in. If I had to do it again, I’d probably save up for the actual TRD or STI lever rather than this retrofit kit if they have an easier install, or remove the drive shaft to get some space to work with. Haven’t driven it yet, but it at least gets into all the gears and the throws are shorter, but notchier. I don’t feel any slop or play in it, though I expect there may be an increase in some vibration due to the stronger rear bushing. I also almost got the header on. Four of the six bolts are torqued down, for the remaining two I don’t have a straight shot at them and fill need to figure out something. I tried a u-joint, but you need a deep well socket so I was still hitting the pipes. Are medium well sockets a thing? I just need like a centimeter deeper than what a standard socket provides.
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Oct 2, 2020 01:10
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Finished installing the header, used a crow's foot socket rather than the u-joint and was able to get the last bolts torqued up easily. Flashed an updated tune for "Stage 2" power, torque dip is gone and only a minor increase in noise. Haven't taken it on the highway yet so reserving final judgement, but so far would recommend. One thing that is worrisome is I'm getting some smoke from the engine bay. The header was used so it shouldn't have any production residue left, but I did replace all the exhaust gaskets from the heads to the mid pipe so I hope its just them getting settled. Shifter has noticeably shorter throws and is notchier, but so far I haven't missed any shifts. Also changed out the black two piece dash panels that would scuff if you looked at it wrong:  For a one piece panel from some Canadian trim level that we didn't get in the US:  Maybe some day I'll get a head unit that fills out the space, or at least a better fill panel.
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Oct 2, 2020 21:29
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Minto Took posted:I like the new dash piece. It seems a lot of manufacturers are now going for that style of big tablet tethered to a single or double DIN base unit. Sony has one as well: https://www.sony.com/electronics/in-car-receivers-players/xav-ax8000 I could probably be into one that is slightly larger the the opening so its completely covered. 10.1 would be almost quadruple the screen size I currently have. Both that Kenwood and the Sony are missing the one featured I think I'd want: a one button mute. I thought I'd want the physical volume knob my current head unit has, but its slow to turn and respond. The attenuate function only lowers the volume a little and is annoying to activate. Are you running a different exhaust setup that gets real hot, or is the heat shield just extra precaution? meatpimp posted:Two clocks?
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Oct 2, 2020 23:06
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PaintVagrant posted:Then hopefully collect my silicon valley IPO bucks...the prices they are offering on used 86 cars in the midwest is pretty bananas.
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Dec 5, 2020 16:13
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Saw a fancy multi-panel LED light on an Amazon deal and decided to give it a try to replace the sad, single light bulb that lights our garage: Hard to tell the difference with the afternoon light coming in through the doors, but its a lot:  I didn't notice the design of the heatsinks until I had it installed and I was aiming the panels:  I'm ok with it though (somehow I missed all the reviews that mentioned it, so it was an actual surprise):  After that I did an oil change and swapped my summer wheels/tires on, and I miss the winter setup already. The winters are Michelin X-Ice in 205/55R16, and the summers are Firestone Indy 500 in 215/45R17 and aside form being more comfortable, I feel that the Michelins have a better initial turn-in and steering feel, though the rear can be looser in a not-fun way. The Firestones just feel looser when I turn, like there's a slight disconnect from turning the wheel to the car moving. Maybe I inflated them a little too much or not enough, I only had enough time to get to a gas station in the neighborhood and they just had one of the sliding pressure gauges on the air hose, not one of the nicer digital gauges that let you set a predefined pressure. Not pictured is the gallon of oil I spilled on the floor because I forgot to open the breather valve on the oil drain container when I started draining. DrChu fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Apr 5, 2021 |
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Apr 5, 2021 03:32
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I’ve been having some random misfires at idle with cylinder 1 in my BRZ and today I decided to swap the two coils on that side to see if the problem follows it before I spend like $90 each on one. I’ve read the horror stories about spark plug changes and can confirm they are true  The front coil is out of its socket a little bit here, there’s only about two inches between the cylinder head and the body. I had to use three different sockets of various lengths to get these in and out. The hardest part end up being getting the rear connector plugged back in. No slack, no access and no visibility was a bad time. I haven’t driven the car yet so I have no idea if this was successful, but at least it still starts.
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May 18, 2021 23:37
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The recommended way to change the plugs is to unbolt a couple of the motor mounts underneath the engine, and then jack up one side at a time to get a little more clearance and then you should be able to use regular tools. The YouTube way is to start like I did, then use a certain combo of sockets and extensions to get to the plug and crack it loose, then back it out a little, remove extension and back it out a little more until you can use a magnet to grab it. Installation involves a rubber hose and hopes you don’t cross thread the plug. That folding socket does seem like it may help, but I’ve never seen one used in a tutorial so maybe the size just isn’t available. If I decide I need to do the plugs I’m going to try the raising the engine method, just doing this took me an hour.
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May 19, 2021 00:28
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Suburban Dad posted:This is how I had to do it on an outback. Not too bad but pretty ridiculous for routine maintenance. What area did you use to jack up the engine? Some people say use the manifold, but I have aftermarket headers on and that seems a little risky. Another option is to rig up something to push up where the mount is which seems the safest bet.
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May 19, 2021 01:30
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I've had new front speakers for my BRZ sitting around for a month or so and I finally started installing them today. One of the initial hang ups was getting the right speaker adapter and plug adapter, since they are one of the components that use both Subaru and Toyota parts. I couldn't find anything conclusive on the speaker adapter, but in my reading I found some people just gut the stock speakers and use that, so that's what I tried. I ended up ordering a cheap set off eBay in case I don't like how the new speakers sound and want to return to stock, they were cheaper than what all the adapters would cost anyway. First step is ripping out the cones  Then I used a jigsaw to cut out the spokes. Idk what I was thinking with that clamp in the previous picture. That all fell apart in about ten seconds and I just held it up by hand to finish.  Test fitting the new speaker  Wiring up  I only did one side today because my garage is only big enough to open one side of the car at a time. Doing some quick L-R comparisons the new speakers do have more low mids than the stocks, which I was hoping for, but also sound a little muffled. However I won't mess with the EQ until I get the other one in and I should be able to dial some of the high end back in.
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Jul 3, 2021 04:15
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Remember that speakers are mechanical devices and that the rubber suspension on them likely won't have been used since they were made and tested to see if they work. I've had headphones and speakers sound like rear end before I'd loosened them up with some reasonable volume tunes for an hour or so at which point they were buttery smooth and exactly what I was expecting. I definitely expect them to sound different after they break in. The new ones are also mid bass drivers, rather than the full range the stock ones are. The car also has 3.5” and 1” speakers in the dash so I had a lot of the high end cut from the EQ because there’s so much treble stock, I’ll have to bring some of that back in now.
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Jul 3, 2021 15:27
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STR posted:
I was looking under the hood for something seemingly unrelated yesterday and saw this, I'm guessing my battery is on the way to being hosed:  That build up on the tie down bracket was what caught my eye, but because of your picture I noticed the liquid on top as well. The battery is only about two years old too.
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Jul 19, 2021 16:12
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STR posted:That could also be from overcharging - you'll want to check the voltage with the engine running.
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Jul 19, 2021 23:56
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Imperador do Brasil posted:My new Fit had been doing the fuel gauge display freak out that is super common on this model.
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Nov 11, 2021 18:05
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I've been noticing a rattling on cold starts for about a week in my BRZ. Yesterday I was finally able to start looking into it, and determined it was coming from the exhaust, but everything was tight and no problems with heatshields or anything like that. I have an aftermarket catted header so I pulled that this morning and found the culprit. https://imgur.com/SoTM8om.mp4 Apparently this is a common failing for this header, the cat becomes unseated and rattles around, sliding between the oxygen sensors. I'm waiting for new gaskets to come in, in the meantime I'm deciding on if I should put the stock one back on, or gut the cat out of this one and retune for catless. DrChu fucked around with this message at 18:41 on Nov 10, 2022 |
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Nov 10, 2022 18:36
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Full Collapse posted:
FT-86 SpeedFactory
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Nov 11, 2022 14:00
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Since I already know what the car feels like stock and with an aftermarket catted header and tune, I figured why not try catless and tuned for that. Removed the cat from that header, took all of two minutes with a chisel and hammer. Got everything reinstalled and tuned with the canned OFT stage 2+ tune. Drives fine, but I didn't notice a big performance improvement like when I initially installed the header. Definitely louder through the mid range, but doesn't seem louder at highway speeds or at idle (once warmed up at least). The quality of the sound is not great, though in general this doesn't seem to be a good sounding motor. I'll stick with this setup for a while, I don't drive much anyway so its not a big deal at this time.
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Nov 13, 2022 01:48
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 02:28 |
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Yeah, I remembered horror stories like the early MR2 Spyders’ pre-cats failing and destroying engines which is what got me to pull the header and check for sure. Having driven the same header catted and catless I do think I made the right call initially in getting a catted header (though obviously I didn’t choose the best brand). I’m sure most of the BRZ/FR-S/86 community gets catless headers because they’re cheaper, not because of any great performance advantage.
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Nov 13, 2022 15:02
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