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This: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3112195&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=2#post362011016
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# ¿ Jun 14, 2009 17:26 |
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 13:34 |
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Got more progress done on my MR2 interior last night. I'm going to attempt to get the dash out this evening.
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# ¿ Jun 17, 2009 17:52 |
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Pulled the dash out of my car and painted it.
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# ¿ Jun 19, 2009 02:35 |
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DropShadow posted:APR exhaust most likely. Still deciding on the HFC but my shop can get me a good deal on a Techtonic. You have a very nice car. I wish I had an Audi wagon. There's a beautiful one just like yours on the jogging path I frequent and I break-neck every time I jog past it.
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# ¿ Aug 16, 2010 05:06 |
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Today I was busy on both of my cars. Since I bought the Z the throttle, brakes, and clutch have been especially mushy. I took about an inch of slack out of the throttle and gave it a hair trigger. My little brother came over so we jacked up the car and bled the slave cylinder as well as the bleeder valve in the engine bay (wtf?) The clutch went from three inches of travel to about half an inch. Its actually drivable now. It has a 10lb Fizanza flywheel and with the mushy pedals it was so hard to drive. My wife's 2002 Protege driver's seat seatbelt buckle broke a few days ago and the dealership wanted $70 for one (ridiculous). I hopped out to the junkyard today and found a Protege of the same model, but both front seats were gone. I pulled the rear belt buckles and tried them with the front belts on the car and they worked so I bought a few of the buckles for $8. The front seat belt buckles are actually attached to the seats so I took one of the sockets apart to see if I could get it to work with the existing broken piece. That didn't work so I got my bolt cutters and sheered it off. The other buckle I bought had a seven inch tether on it since it was a rear belt so I unbolted the right-side rear seat bolt and put the buckle's eye bolt hole between the seat rail and the chassis. Then I screwed the bolt back in and voila, new seat buckle for $62 less than OEM. It's blac in a tan car but who cares.
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# ¿ Aug 22, 2010 02:31 |
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I bought a throttle cover, some used timing belt covers, and an OEM white nose panel. The de-ricing has begun. I think I'm going to paint the timing cover and throttle cover a nice off-white. I'm also thinking about installing some electric fans I have. The pusher fan is loving huge.
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# ¿ Aug 23, 2010 05:04 |
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De-riced my rear bumper. Before: After: I just got back from Wal Mart. I got a gallon of simple green, more sand paper, and some stainless steel polish for the cans. I literally ripped the bumper cover off, tearing it in pieces in the process.
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# ¿ Aug 29, 2010 04:12 |
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Omegaslast posted:hahah i thought the guy said the bumper was just "stuck on top of the other one" like it was clipped or bolted on there. Why the gently caress would someone just glue the bumper on top of the other one!? Why would someone splice gauges into the driver's side electric seat harness?
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# ¿ Aug 29, 2010 05:38 |
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So today was the day to tackle pulling the plenum and replacing the injectors. I have a three day weekend so I'm not in a huge hurry. My main goal is to make sure everything is done right. I followed this guide to get the plenum off. Several systems, such as AIV, have already been deleted so the job isn't that bad. I was extremely pleased to find that one of the previous owners did the water bypass. The plenum came off with no problems. Its nice to see how great my valve covers look. No parts shop in town had the upper plenum gasket in stock. I tried at least four different stores before I bought a DIY gasket kit from Pep Boys for $8. Its a paper gasket so no biggie. Here's the home-made gasket I did. I made two because that's how much material I had. I also made gaskets for the balance tube and have plenty of material left for others which may need replacing. I got some 500 degree RTV liquid gasket to seal it. My best advice is to cut the gaskets then sandwich them in a heavy book over night because the paper gasket kit comes rolled up. The one I made is on top obviously. Once the plenum was off, removing the fuel rails and injectors was cake. Here they are soaking in 6 hours worth of PB blaster. I started taking the fuel rails apart but it got pretty late and the LSU game was on so I called it a night. Removing the cap screws was a MOTHER. I used the old technique of putting my #2 phillips in some vice grips then pushing down while my friend turned it. It worked for 8/10 of them (only replacing 5 injectors). For the stripped screws I just put vice grips on them to turn them out. I'm using a technique where I PB blast the injectors then rotate them to break their seal, then using a deep-well socket (10mm) I knock them out through the bottom. This way the injectors stay in one piece. I found a great set of videos from the Z shop on youtube with great advice on extracting and installing new injectors. I've got 2/5 removed but have to finish tomorrow morning. Tomorrow's going to be mostly focused on cleaning as much as I can with the plenum out. The fuel rails and associated hardware are getting soaked in mean green to remove the dirt and deposits. I'm also going to murder the engine bay for a few hours. I have found a ton of new spots I can get to that I missed when I cleaned it last week. Hopefully everything goes back together as easily as it came apart Oh yeah, here's RapeWhistle's sweet ride. He put my busted nose panel to great use:
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# ¿ Sep 5, 2010 06:17 |
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Replaced a t-bolt clamp on one of my intercooler pipes. It was broken and not applying enough pressure so I had a bad boost leak. Tomorrow I need to put more clamps on hoses that don't have any.
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# ¿ Sep 26, 2010 03:30 |
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Bought a new set of tires. The previous owner installed 225 wide on all four corners and on a TT 300zx that's like being Bambi on ice in all weather. I got a set of Sumitomo HTR-Z III's. 245/40/18 in the front and 265/40/18 in the rear. The 350z wheels that are on the car right now really can't take any wider unfortunately. Its still going to be light-years better than it is now.
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# ¿ Jan 24, 2011 03:34 |
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I, with one arm, removed the entire interior from the rear of my car in preparation of installing my new stereo system. You have to rip out a huge pile of interior plastic panels to do this. While I'm at it I'm completely cleaning the sheet metal. There is 19 years of dust under the panels. I'm rewiring the entire system, replacing every speaker, and installing a new head unit and sub + amp. I wish my goddamn thumb was better so I could go nuts.
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# ¿ Apr 22, 2011 05:12 |
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DropShadow posted:
Wow that looks exceptional.
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# ¿ Apr 30, 2011 04:03 |
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Came home to drop a deuce on my lunch break at work and found a package from FedEx so I installed my new parts before I went back to work. You know you're dedicated when you take off a suit at mid-day to work on your car when it's over 100 degrees outside. I replaced the metal intake pipes that go to the intercooler: with silicone ones that are easy as balls to put on and use half as many t-bolt clamps, so less goddamn boost leaks. It only took about 30 minutes to install them and most of the work was getting at the nuts on the clamps due to the awkward orientation you have to place them in. I gained a good two PSI just from persistent boost leaks from those goddamn pipes. I also think they look better.
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# ¿ Jun 29, 2011 23:45 |
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Yeah 40 is way too much for any kind of remotely performance tire. My wife's mazda protege is at 38 psi all around. My Z is at 32 all around. Any more tire pressure on my car and it starts to get extremely floaty.
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# ¿ Jun 30, 2011 00:09 |
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I installed a Blitz SBC iD electronic boost controller today. I ran new equal-length vacuum hoses from each wastegate then teed them and ran a single hose to the OUT port on the dual solenoid. I then ran equal-length vacuum hoses to the intercooler intake pipes and teed them off to the IN port. After the solenoid vacuum lines were taken care of I ran the electrical wiring in the cabin. I hacked in to the stereo harness for battery and key then fished the solenoid electrical connection to the brain box. Lastly I had to tap in to a vacuum line near the battery for the brain box' vacuum meter. Ironically I tapped in to the Greddy boost gauge vacuum monitor line. I set the settings to 1.20/.40 and made 14 pounds of boost on the first shot. I don't have a manual in english so I'll have to wing it. I also flushed my transmission and filled it with 75w90 Royal Purple gear oil. It is silky smooth now!
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# ¿ Jul 4, 2011 00:15 |
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Augmented Dickey posted:Oak panels for my center console! Snazzy!
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# ¿ Jul 4, 2011 04:16 |
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Found out that my AC system compressor is completely shot. The clutch doesn't spin at all and when I tried to charge the system with dye the compressor lit up under a UV lamp like the bed of a seedy motel room. maaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaannnnn.
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# ¿ Jul 4, 2011 23:55 |
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heat posted:What I did today was yell swear words at my car for idling funny and losing power (until I noticed the A/C was still on from defogging my windows in the rain this morning) Uh no. Most hardware stores stock automotive grade hardware. It is definitely not a good idea to grab stuff from the general hardware section though!
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# ¿ Jul 9, 2011 00:27 |
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94+ 300zx and all 2+2 that did not come with a spoler have a third brake light which is directly above the head lights and spans them horizontally. It is a much nicer look than the 90-93 spoiler and tail light combo. Concept Z Performance sells a $20 black vinyl stripe which goes below the spoiler to improve the look of the turbo spoiler and tail light combo. Here is my stock look: Here is how it looks now: Really need to get my rear bumper painted..
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# ¿ Jul 10, 2011 19:44 |
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Rhyno posted:You need to get rid of those drat fart cannons. No I don't. There's nothing wrong with my exhaust. It sounds great, isn't loud, and looks fine. HKS POWER.
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# ¿ Jul 10, 2011 20:02 |
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Man that is a beautiful top end. You keep that car so drat clean.
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# ¿ Jul 10, 2011 22:02 |
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I installed KYB AGX shocks, Tein S Tech springs, and AMS adjustable upper control arms on the rear of my Z today. The car handles so much better now! both rear shocks were completely blown out and the passenger side spring was sagging badly. I need to roll the rear fenders and adjust the camber slightly but otherwise no more rubbing!
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# ¿ Jul 24, 2011 01:24 |
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Detailed the hell out of it. Engine bay: Interior: Exterior wash and wax:
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# ¿ Nov 5, 2011 23:21 |
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I bought a set of Eibach Pro Kit springs for my s2000. Its only a moderate drop (like an inch front and back) but I've been itching to do something to the car and I got a good deal so gently caress it. Will be nice to have a car that doesn't require $1500 in other suspension upgrades to keep it in alignment.
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# ¿ Jun 22, 2012 22:00 |
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Replaced the radiator in my wife's '02 Protege on the side of I-10 after work. The OEM radiator had a 2 inch crack in the plastic bottom of the radiator. Stop leak just laughed at it. I'm thankful that she's aware of the importance of the temperature gauge, especially in southern Louisiana in July. This weekend I get the privilege of overhauling that turd to keep it going a little longer.
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# ¿ Jul 3, 2012 03:11 |
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Lowered it about an inch today. Eibach pro kit with stock shocks. It'll settle a little more. I snapped these right after I took it off the jack stands.
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# ¿ Jul 9, 2012 03:23 |
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Last weekend my brother and I installed my Eibach Pro Kit springs. The car was already "roll it up on phone books" low stock so I didn't want to go any lower than 1.5". After settling out I'm very pleased with how the car sits now! I'm also very happy with how the car feels. My 300zx TT was on KYB AGX struts and Tein springs and it was bone-jarringly harsh. Also, Meguiar's "Hot Wheels" all wheel cleaner is legit.
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# ¿ Jul 30, 2012 00:15 |
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The springs feel completely stock, just lower. The shocks are what will make that setup stiff (assuming they're anywhere near what the AGX line feels like). I used the stock shocks since they're practically brand new but in the past I've used KYB AGX (both MR2's, a 240sx, and the 300zx) and it was bone jarring.
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# ¿ Jul 31, 2012 01:43 |
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I replaced my convertible top this weekend. gently caress this job. Easily the most difficult / time consuming car job I've ever done but I saved about a grand on having someone else do it. The Robbins top is excellent quality. Glass window with defrost (just like OEM), great fit, and superior cloth instead of vinyl. Also, there are no waves or ripples like most DIY tops which pleases the AI in me greatly Paul Boz_ fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Aug 5, 2012 |
# ¿ Aug 5, 2012 22:20 |
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meatpimp posted:You did a really good job, though. It's tough to get the Robbins tops to not bunch in the b-pillar area, yours is nice and smooth. Yeah no kidding. 9/10 of the pictures that I see online look wavy / bunched but we just took our time and worked through it, pulling it into shape and making it our bitch By far the worst and most difficult part was reinstalling the rain rail and rear support straps. I could not have done that without my wife's little body. I don't know how anyone does that by themselves. If anyone's curious to know the process here's the guide I followed: http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/448840-replacing-your-convertible-top-with-a-robbins-top/
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# ¿ Aug 5, 2012 22:29 |
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Raw_Beef posted:Edit: i notice you didnt get the plastics back in. Good luck! Just wrapped it all up and went for a ride around the block! No rattles, all plastics in place, everything looks good and sounds good. I not only ground down the rivets and hand-sanded them, I used some of this over them: http://www.amazon.com/UGlu-MSP401-Fabric-Tape-Black/dp/B001RCUQD6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1344215230&sr=8-2&keywords=convertible+top+tape Also, I did the elastic straps as well using larger rivets. I identified all of the places where the factory top sucked and remediated them with that tape and better engineering. Those little seam over-runs on the front were actually super helpful with pulling that new top onto the front of the car. I actually drilled them out and screwed them down so they would stay in place with their tension. It looks great. mutt2jeff posted:Thanks for the tip. I have tried a couple different products trying to get my white wheels clean. This absolutely blew everything else out of the water. For the first time the wheels are actually clean and white. Sick, that looks great! Glad it worked out for you. I love the stuff. Paul Boz_ fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Aug 6, 2012 |
# ¿ Aug 6, 2012 02:08 |
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1st Edition ADandD posted:I just don't like A/C. Feels weird, smells weird, hate driving with the windows up. I'm rocking the t-tops half the time anyway. It looks like a new reman unit and worked perfectly till now, but it's been 90 degrees all summer here, I DD the car, and I think I turned it on once just to prove to someone that it worked. I dunno. It's not like a z31 has any resale value anyway. Where do you live? My s2000 is the first car that I've ever had with AC and I live in Southern Louisiana. Do you enjoy going to work and smelling like rear end because you're literally marinating in your own juices? I didn't, that's for drat sure. The cabin temp of my 300zx TT with the T tops off during the summer was usually well above the outside temp and I had leather so it was hot as gently caress. I don't know how I was able to drive for a decade before getting a car with air conditioning. I made the same excuses about weight savings, turbo clearance, less maintenance, etc but in the end it was never worth it, I was just way too lazy to fix it. All of that being said I run my AC at full blast when the top is down. I'm pretty sure Honda stuck an Accord AC unit in my car because I can get white knuckles the AC is so cold.
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# ¿ Aug 7, 2012 03:18 |
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I just changed my cabin filter. It took all of two minutes and that was with snapping a photo. Pretty sure the one I just swapped out shipped with the car in 2007. There's fur, feathers, and it's black as hell, ugh. When was the last time you changed yours?
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# ¿ Aug 18, 2012 00:29 |
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Got some defense. I'm going to do a hardwire install this weekend with a concealed display but for now it's fine.Geoj posted:Got my ball and chain in the mail today... gently caress that. There's no discount big enough. I'd register ten hard acceleration events a day and they'd probably charge me more.
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# ¿ Sep 18, 2012 01:03 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I would pay good money for one of these that tracked and uploaded high scores to the internet. I know it's kinda played out but holy poo poo somebody's going to Bommerjinx that idea. You'd make millions. All you would need to do is sponsor Honda-Tech, Stang.net, and all of the other forums and you'd be rich.
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# ¿ Sep 18, 2012 02:30 |
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I actually just replaced my s2000's wipers yesterday with OEM swaps. They work great and are cheap.
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# ¿ Oct 9, 2012 17:39 |
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Making me miss my Z
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# ¿ Oct 22, 2012 04:00 |
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I picked up a used set of Air Walker s2000 side skirts for way, way less than they usually go for used. I usually see them go for around $400-$500 used but I got these for only $200. I need to do a little fiberglass repair to one of them but they'll be to the paint shop by next week. They fit 100% with no modification. I'm excited. I think they'll look sick.
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# ¿ Nov 5, 2012 17:12 |
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 13:34 |
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Nodoze posted:I like those. Do you have gold wheels for your S yet, if not you should I may or may not be in the process of experimenting with plastidip color builder and metallic finish
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# ¿ Nov 6, 2012 00:02 |