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KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



You can probably figure out what the actual material is if you know where the location is. Lots of concrete is lined or scored directionally, but doesn't necessarily show well in photos so that's why I asked. If it's a uniform surface fine grit sandpaper painted is a good idea.

You're already at a level of dedication far above mine. My completed models live on my desk or printer.

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Furism
Feb 21, 2006

Live long and headbang


Yes I guess it's just concrete. According to Youtuber tutorials I could use plaster with some fine sand, apply some color and that'd look good.

I want to make a mini diorama because this is a gift for my father, who lives 10 mins away from that base. I actually land there when I go visit him, so I could just take pictures next time if I'm on the right side of the plane

MrYenko
Jun 17, 2012

#2 isn't ALWAYS bad...


Pages 78, 79, and 80 are what you're looking for. Ramp areas and taxiways are almost never grooved, but they always have some sort of texture applied for tire grip. Runways and high-speed turnoffs are generally grooved.

Sultan Tarquin
Jul 29, 2007

and what kind of world would it be? HUH?!

Did some more work on the su-33 and man this thing is just fighting me. the engines just don't want to go in without some serious pressure and they still don't look like they'll sit right. The rear canopy was a bit bowed outwards so I had to use plastic cement just to set the drat thing while I pinched it in place and now the wing connectors just don't feel like they fit at all.

Fearless
Sep 3, 2003

DRINK MORE MOXIE



I've been working on the Bluenose a bit but have started packing it and my model table up for a move. For starters, I have never been completely pleased with the shiny bronze look of the windlass, so I went back in with a couple of washes and tarnished it up a bit. I'm much happier with it as it is now.



The signal flags were tied together with a series of wee reef knots. Here is what they look like approximately where they will be flying when the foremast's flag halyard is installed:



Lastly, I've done some work on the main gaff rigging and metal work that will be used to hoist the gaff aloft and provide tension for the mainsail:





This is probably the most complex piece of rigging in the entire vessel, owing mainly to the sheer size of the mainsail and it has been a little frustrating to get a full sense of how it works because the description is split across a couple of different sheets in the plans. Even so, it is still far, far less complex than the systems that go into a traditional ship rig and for that I am grateful.

Furism
Feb 21, 2006

Live long and headbang


Question about Navy aircraft pre-shading, painting and weathering. I get that one of the process is to prime in some medium grey, apply some random "mottling" with white, pre-shade the panel lines and then put the base layer (usually some form of light grey, could be darker for Marines aircrafts). My understanding is that you want that base layer to be very thin (I've seen tutorials where they say 75% thinner and 15% paint) so that the mottling and pre-shading will show through.

I tried this on a small 1/144th test model and the problem I have is that when I get paint that thin (I used a 50/50 mix because the paint I used is Vallejo Model Air, which I figured is already 50/50, so to reach the 75/25 ratio I put half paint half thinner) I got some spidering at 10psi. I lowered the air pressure to like 5psi which solved the spidering somewhat, but then in some areas the paint would just be running a little bit, leaving small but clearly visible streak marks.

Am I supposed to stay at a super low pressure, spray barely any paint, and just do several passes of super thin layers?

Furism fucked around with this message at 08:50 on May 15, 2020

Scut
Aug 26, 2008



Soiled Meat

Fearless posted:

The signal flags were tied together with a series of wee reef knots. Here is what they look like approximately where they will be flying when the foremast's flag halyard is installed:



Great little detail that's going to bring this to life.

Triggerhappypilot
Nov 8, 2009

SVMS-01 UNION FLAG GREATEST MOBILE SUIT

ENACT = CHEAP EUROTRASH COPY



Furism posted:

Question about Navy aircraft pre-shading, painting and weathering. I get that one of the process is to prime in some medium grey, apply some random "mottling" with white, pre-shade the panel lines and then put the base layer (usually some form of light grey, could be darker for Marines aircrafts). My understanding is that you want that base layer to be very thin (I've seen tutorials where they say 75% thinner and 15% paint) so that the mottling and pre-shading will show through.

I tried this on a small 1/144th test model and the problem I have is that when I get paint that thin (I used a 50/50 mix because the paint I used is Vallejo Model Air, which I figured is already 50/50, so to reach the 75/25 ratio I put half paint half thinner) I got some spidering at 10psi. I lowered the air pressure to like 5psi which solved the spidering somewhat, but then in some areas the paint would just be running a little bit, leaving small but clearly visible streak marks.

Am I supposed to stay at a super low pressure, spray barely any paint, and just do several passes of super thin layers?

1/144th scale is going to be difficult to pull off preshading like that because you will need to make the lines pencil thin. However, i would not recommend thinning Model Air that much, as it tends to get really runny when thinned. Use some extra Flow Improver instead if you are having trouble with uneven spray and don't be afraid to push up the pressure a little. For something as small as 1/144 you'll probably need to remove the needle cap and just work with the bare airbrush needle very close to the surface.

Furism
Feb 21, 2006

Live long and headbang


Triggerhappypilot posted:

1/144th scale is going to be difficult to pull off preshading like that because you will need to make the lines pencil thin. However, i would not recommend thinning Model Air that much, as it tends to get really runny when thinned. Use some extra Flow Improver instead if you are having trouble with uneven spray and don't be afraid to push up the pressure a little. For something as small as 1/144 you'll probably need to remove the needle cap and just work with the bare airbrush needle very close to the surface.

I should have indicated that while the test model is 1/144, the final one will be 1/72. I didn't have any 1/72 model cheap enough to sacrifice to a test.

If I don't thin Model Air, would the pre-shading and mottling still show through?

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

Gun Saliva

Depends on your level of control with your airbrush. You can put on a transparent layer without any thinner if you apply the paint lightly enough with. Testing it on a spare piece of sprue or a plastic spoon is a good way to try it out.

You could also dilute your paint with pigment-free medium, like matte or glaze media.

Symetrique
Jan 1, 2013






You should thin it anyway for the blending layer. Its better to err on the side of caution and apply a layer thats too transparent, instead of applying an unthinned layer that obliterates your work.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!


Calling my T-34 build complete. I'm disappointed because it was gonna be my first time using masking putty, and I think the finish would have been better had I been able to spray, but as it turns out, I'm nowhere close to being able to mask out a pattern like this with silly putty. So, hand painting it is. I roughly accomplished what I set out to do though, and the model *does* look a bit better in real life than it does in these pictures (why does every flaw get magnified?) These are pre-weathering, but honestly my weathering process as it stands is just dabbing and smearing with Tamiya dry pigments randomly, so it's not gonna get much better looking than it does right now.

https://imgur.com/a/pgstqbC

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady


That looks great dude. Well done.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Родина слышит




Pillbug

Looks awesome! I think it would have been a tough pattern to pull off with putty and keep the hard edges. If I get a Czechoslovakian T-34-85 kit, I'm definitely giving it into some kind of Stompie Garden paint job.

zokie
Feb 13, 2006

Out of many, Sweden


I think your tank looks great. Other than masking with great precision and airbrushing Im not sure of how to get smoother lines. And some shapes are going to be much harder to replicate in small scales.

You should try some small chipping, like on the barrel. Also enamel washes are nice because while cleaning it up it usually also acts like a filter for the base. I find that usually greatly enhances my models.

One thing you should definitively do is adjust the levels of your photos before posting them. A basic thing would be to adjust the warmth so the white pattern looks white instead of orange. Youd be surprised on how much it changes things.
Way earlier in the thread someone did it for lilljonas pics and it made a world of difference even for his masterpieces.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007


Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952





Arquinsiel posted:

That looks great dude. Well done.

Concur. That;'s a striking pattern well-applied.

Symetrique
Jan 1, 2013






Really nice job! That pattern is pretty complex, it turned out great.





WIP of a 1/48 Albatros 253. I shelved the kit for several months since I was having crazy paint adherence issues on the rear part of the fuselage. Tamiya tape that had been detacked was still managing to peel off paint and Mr Surfacer. Still have a few touchups to make here and there, but at least its painted and all decals have been applied.



grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

Gun Saliva

Quite a fine tank. So, when's the rest of the diorama?

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!


grassy gnoll posted:

Quite a fine tank. So, when's the rest of the diorama?
5 or 6 years from now when I decide to expand the hobby. I will say it was the first time I did consider doing one.

Sultan Tarquin
Jul 29, 2007

and what kind of world would it be? HUH?!

Taking shape. Certainly if I was a better modeller I'd probably have less issues with the fit and gaps. New tooling doesn't necessarily mean better tooling but given the price of the whole kit I really can't grumble. It does leave it with questionable choices for some of the parts though.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet




Slippery Tilde

Symetrique posted:

....
WIP of a 1/48 Albatros 253. I shelved the kit for several months since I was having crazy paint adherence issues on the rear part of the fuselage. Tamiya tape that had been detacked was still managing to peel off paint and Mr Surfacer. Still have a few touchups to make here and there, but at least its painted and all decals have been applied.
...

I've begun to suspect that each model company must have multiple suppliers for mold release agents with wildly different water solubility.

Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 17:21 on May 18, 2020

SkunkDuster
Jul 15, 2005







That looks fantastic! Is there a historic reason the "253" is barely visible?

Symetrique
Jan 1, 2013






Blue Footed Booby posted:

I've begun to suspect that each model company must have multiple suppliers for mold release agents with wildly different water solubility.

Yeah, I'm not even what caused this. I didn't have this issue on the wings or cockpit pieces. I even wiped down the fuselage with some isopropyl alcohol before painting.

The plastic/tooling for this kit has been weird in general.

SkunkDuster posted:

That looks fantastic! Is there a historic reason the "253" is barely visible?

Yep! The ground crew scratched off the serial number. I'm happy with the way that decal looks. It was a sorta transparent yellow decal, didn't think it was gonna work at first.


Edit:

Here's an example of some of the weird molding on the kit. This like, stepped texture was also present on the wings, which required a lot of delicate cleanup.

Symetrique fucked around with this message at 18:48 on May 18, 2020

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

Gun Saliva

Slugworth posted:

5 or 6 years from now when I decide to expand the hobby. I will say it was the first time I did consider doing one.

In seriousness, it's a little daunting, but it's absolutely worth it. This would also be a comparatively easy diorama to make - you'd need some decent foliage, but you've otherwise got a nice smooth wall you could build out of foamcore and some chainlink fencing from mesh and old sprue.

If you've got copious free time on your hands these days, it's totally worth a shot.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

Gotta nuke something


Update on the Star Destroyer. Finished the bottom hull lighting. Landing bays turned out pretty decent, although there's a handful of light leaks I'll need to address. Now working on the top hull, which will generally be easier since it's just straight threading fiberoptics.






Symetrique
Jan 1, 2013






Is the cleanup for fiber optics just cutting off the exposed line once the kit is finished?





Also, painted the upper surfaces on the 253:








Painting the underside is gonna suck.

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady


Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Update on the Star Destroyer. Finished the bottom hull lighting. Landing bays turned out pretty decent, although there's a handful of light leaks I'll need to address. Now working on the top hull, which will generally be easier since it's just straight threading fiberoptics.







I can't wait to see how this turns out.

Sparq
Feb 10, 2014

If you're using an AC/20, you only need to hit the target once. If the target's still standing, you oughta be somewhere else anyway.

Symetrique posted:


WIP of a 1/48 Albatros 253. I shelved the kit for several months since I was having crazy paint adherence issues on the rear part of the fuselage. Tamiya tape that had been detacked was still managing to peel off paint and Mr Surfacer. Still have a few touchups to make here and there, but at least its painted and all decals have been applied.





Hot drat. I'm liking the wooden surfaces.

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Update on the Star Destroyer. Finished the bottom hull lighting. Landing bays turned out pretty decent, although there's a handful of light leaks I'll need to address. Now working on the top hull, which will generally be easier since it's just straight threading fiberoptics.








It's looking nice! Is it the Zvezda/Revell 1:2500 kit? I'll be looking how yours is going and aping some of your work.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Родина слышит




Pillbug

The BT-7 is done!









Full album

The BT-7 kit was the Eastern Express, which, however awful, was the only choice until the Tamiya became available. The addition of ET model PE, an RB metal barrel, Bronco tracks, and custom made exhaust pipes and extra stowage made it more bearable to look at, but at this point I probably spent so much money that I should have just gotten the Tamiya in the first place.

This is the first time I tried to simulate bulletproof glass with tinfoil and Mig Acrylic Crystal, I think it worked out. The headlights, not so much. Sadly, the base kit comes with some pretty awful ones that even Mig couldn't save.

The model is supposed to depict a tank used against the Japanese in 1939 and then again in 1945, in the intervening years in got pretty worn down and customized by the crew, hence all the extra stuff.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

Gotta nuke something


Sparq posted:

It's looking nice! Is it the Zvezda/Revell 1:2500 kit? I'll be looking how yours is going and aping some of your work.

Yep, that's the kit. Along with some PE and lighting addons from Green Strawberry. If you have any questions, let me know. There are a few tricky areas with this kit, at least if you're going the fiber optics route. The latest revision of the kit, with internal LED strips for lighting, would be a much simpler build.

Anarcho-Commissar
May 22, 2002

"The means of production being the collective work of humanity, the product should be the collective property of the race. Individual appropriation is neither just nor serviceable. All belongs to all."
- Pyotr Kropotkin



Ensign Expendable posted:

The BT-7 is done!


God drat!

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007






Biscuit Hider

Symetrique posted:

Is the cleanup for fiber optics just cutting off the exposed line once the kit is finished?

Yes, leave a little whisker sticking out so you can paint, then clip the whisker flush so the light can get out.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

Gotta nuke something


Slugworth posted:

Calling my T-34 build complete. I'm disappointed because it was gonna be my first time using masking putty, and I think the finish would have been better had I been able to spray, but as it turns out, I'm nowhere close to being able to mask out a pattern like this with silly putty. So, hand painting it is. I roughly accomplished what I set out to do though, and the model *does* look a bit better in real life than it does in these pictures (why does every flaw get magnified?) These are pre-weathering, but honestly my weathering process as it stands is just dabbing and smearing with Tamiya dry pigments randomly, so it's not gonna get much better looking than it does right now.

https://imgur.com/a/pgstqbC

Are you gonna do a base for this one? Itd be very cool if you recreated the grassy plot it sits on, maybe throw in the brick wall behind it to frame the composition.

Looks great though, the freehand camo worked well.

Molentik
Apr 30, 2013




I spend waaaay to much time making a 35th scale belt from spare PE...

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady


That looks amazing but also you are insane. I'd just have used greenstuff for the belt, but it'd have looked nowhere near as good.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!


The pistol wedged in there is a great little detail.

Symetrique
Jan 1, 2013






Its a great detail!

Giving me band of brothers flashbacks though

Molentik
Apr 30, 2013



Thanks! That pistol was the whole reason I wanted to use metal because masking tape or putty wouldnt look right.

Ive used parts from five different figures, but I just cant find a left arm in a pose that works, with a bit of bad luck I have to make one myself...

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016


So like when you said spare PE, did you mean like a sheet of PE sprue that you just cut up into a belt?

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Molentik
Apr 30, 2013



Yes, pretty much. The buckle is a unused part that I cut some bits off, but the belt itself was made from leftovers. I use jeweller's files to clean up the attachment points and a needle used for leatherwork (the tip looks more like a tiny blade, also great for improving detail on styrene figures) to punch the holes in the belt.


I save all my unused PE in different sizes thickness for scratch building stuff.

Molentik fucked around with this message at 17:18 on May 20, 2020

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