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It's so mindblowingly awesome I think my mind just assumed new technology was involved.
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Jan 21, 2012 20:41
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I find it sort of comforting to see that the "old world" techniques are still alive and well. 5-10 years I bet everyone will be doing their art and dioramas with their 3D printers and CNC mills in their basement. Make me wonder what will happen to the plastic model industry, especially when you see the progress cheap/homemade printers have made in just the last few years.
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Jan 22, 2012 02:30
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People have printers and ebooks, but traditional books still exits. While people will certainly homebrew models, there almost certainly won't be the level of quality or accuracy found in models today. Plus there is stuff you can't do on your own, like photo etch (will probably change) or resin. It will, however, be interesting to see if commonly available 3D scanners and printers will prompt some manner of piracy, and what the response to that be.
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Jan 22, 2012 02:44
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Resin is pretty easy to do really. I've got a tub of it sitting here right now.
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Jan 22, 2012 03:54
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Ensign Expendable posted:People have printers and ebooks, but traditional books still exits. While people will certainly homebrew models, there almost certainly won't be the level of quality or accuracy found in models today. Plus there is stuff you can't do on your own, like photo etch (will probably change) or resin. We already have piracy with plastic and resin models today. As you correctly point out, what will hamper piracy for a while is the resolution of the home printers; for the next several years I expect that a well-made injection-molded part will look better than a home-printed part.
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Jan 22, 2012 04:03
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Really, already? I've never heard of anyone posting 3D scans of sprues or something.
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Jan 22, 2012 04:08
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If full scale piracy were to happen it would require quite expensive tech at the moment. however Resin figures and models have been around for years and rather than causing harm to the modelling industry they have supplemented it. In fact home brew companies are the ones driving the industry at the moment. for instance about 5 companies had made resin and white metal conversions to Tamiya's t-55a model into the t-55 enigma, Tamiya saw the success and decided to design and tool their own injection molded kit of the enigma themselves. The garage industry has really exploded specially with easier resins, CAD and 3d printing becoming cheaper and easier, and rather than copy the big players injection molded kits and trying to sell these for cheaper, they are rather specializing into areas large companies wouldn't touch, and they are finding success. Just look at how Eduard has gone from a limited run production manufacturer to a full blown tamiya/hasegawa comparable company as a good example of this. I see modellers using 3d printing and resin forming as they already do. rather than build a cheap or comparable model of a kit, They produce value added products for those kit's or to produce items that they simply can't find and that no company wants to cater for.
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Jan 22, 2012 04:20
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Ensign Expendable posted:Really, already? I've never heard of anyone posting 3D scans of sprues or something. No, they don't do that yet and won't for a while. Piracy for resin kits is done by recasting, in some cases far outstripping the legitimate supply of kits. For plastic kits it can be as simple as the factory in China that makes them for the legitimate company runs another batch of them on the second shift and markets them in different packaging. Sometimes kits that fail the legitimate QC process are collected and sold as pirate kits. In a few cases, worn out molds are reused with an accompanying drop in quality compared to the legitimate kits.
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Jan 22, 2012 04:30
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Oh, I didn't consider resin. Is it just figures, or are there full blown tanks as well? I don't actually do resin, so I don't know what it's capable of. I would guess it would be too flexible to support a very large model.
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Jan 22, 2012 04:42
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Ensign Expendable posted:Oh, I didn't consider resin. Is it just figures, or are there full blown tanks as well? I don't actually do resin, so I don't know what it's capable of. I would guess it would be too flexible to support a very large model. There's pretty much everything done in resin; the first Maus tank model I saw as a kid was a resin kit.
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Jan 22, 2012 05:04
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Ensign Expendable posted:Oh, I didn't consider resin. Is it just figures, or are there full blown tanks as well? I don't actually do resin, so I don't know what it's capable of. I would guess it would be too flexible to support a very large model. Midjack posted:In a few cases, worn out molds are reused with an accompanying drop in quality compared to the legitimate kits.
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Jan 22, 2012 19:13
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That's pretty awesome looking. Also, holy poo poo, $800 for a model kit.
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Jan 22, 2012 20:09
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Ensign Expendable posted:That's pretty awesome looking. Also, holy poo poo, $800 for a model kit. Ahhaha, "ARMS ARE NOT INCLUDED - THESE ARE SOLD SEPARATELY" Dragon has a 1/72 Saturn 5. It is tall. 1.5 meters tall.
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Jan 23, 2012 02:02
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Nebakenezzer posted:Ahhaha, "ARMS ARE NOT INCLUDED - THESE ARE SOLD SEPARATELY" To be fair, they are pretty much cast on order since they're so drat pricey, and they *are* pretty drat beefy models. Still retarded prices, but GW will be GW.
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Jan 23, 2012 02:14
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Forgeworld's large on order products are good quality, but I have heard many bad things about their more common items like the imperial guard models they do, including unacceptable amounts of pin and air holes. Once i finish my Panther G i kinda want to do a figure again. any word on those citadel finecast resin/plastic models and the quality of them?
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Jan 23, 2012 06:44
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Rumour has it they're getting better, but the one I bought on launch is highly detailed with crisp holes and absurdly flexible.
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Jan 23, 2012 06:56
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Arquinsiel posted:Still retarded prices, but GW will be GW. Don't know what GW is in this context, but once again I'm feeling smug that I have nothing to do with Warhammer  On the topic of 'ridiculous expensive' for about $1500 Tamiya will build you a functional R/C tank. Slightly more sane but still way out there is this new kit Hobby Boss has brought out: 1/35 Abrams tank on a tank transporter. Pieces: 1600+
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Jan 23, 2012 19:21
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drat, 1500? I knew RC 1:16 tanks ran a few hundred bucks, but I didn't think any of them were that expensive.
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Jan 23, 2012 22:28
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Nebakenezzer posted:Don't know what GW is in this context, but once again I'm feeling smug that I have nothing to do with Warhammer I like that the kit doesn't actually come with an Abrams...
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Jan 24, 2012 01:32
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Nebakenezzer posted:Anyway, it occurred to me that it'd be easy to re-create a model of one of these, right down to the period markings. Then I realized that you could do what the US navy has done (period paint on modern aircraft) to whatever you wanted. I'm thinking a Luftwaffe Eurofighter painted up like a Me109 would be pretty cool. There's nothing new under the sun.  Nazi Vulcans look hella sinister  WW1 German 'dazzle' camo needs to make a comeback 
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Jan 27, 2012 20:45
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^^^ That dude has some serious time on his hands.
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Jan 28, 2012 05:29
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I want to get back into models after a 25 year hiatus, and I really want to try a wooden ship (from the 1600s period hopefully). I'm after something that has a difficulty level somewhere between "here's a box full of wood, build the ship" and "here are two halves of the ship, glue them together". Any recommendations? I know it's probably not going to be cheap. [edit] My online search for a store to sell me a full airbrush setup has lead me to this: http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/ABDkit-Badger-360.aspx Can someone tell me if I'm on the right track with this setup for painting models, and what the difference between all the compressor types listed means? I really have no idea what all I need to get. InternetJunky fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Jan 29, 2012 |
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Jan 28, 2012 18:42
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the badger brand as a whole is really good, not top quality like Iwata or any of the Japanese/german brand stuff, although their new badger renegade krome is apparently really drat good for the money, the 360 at least has a gravity feed option which is a must for scale models as you need to keep the PSI as low as possible. as far as the compressor goes, the best one on that page is the tc20t as it has its own tank which means it won't pulse air or change pressure while you are spraying. If sound is not a issue, and you want a good brush you might be better off getting a 2.0hp or smaller compressor from a hardware store and pick up a Iwata revolution or a badger krome, both excellent brushes that will last you forever. (the Badger krome might be insanely hard to find, it seems to be a super popular brush with modellers and wargamers for some reason and badger can't keep up with demand) http://www.harborfreight.com/3-gallon-100-psi-oilless-pancake-air-compressor-95275.html something like that would work perfect for airbrushing, albeit it will be noisy. http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/irevo.aspx#IWA4247 the iwata CR is a really awesome nearly unbreakable airbrush with it's 0.5mm needle. not the best super detail brush in the world but it will still do 90 percent of what you will ever do and you can purchase a nozzle and needle at 0.3mm for better detail. griffia fucked around with this message at 09:42 on Jan 30, 2012 |
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Jan 30, 2012 09:37
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griffia posted:whole bunch of useful airbrush info I actually was going to buy that Badger and compressor that I linked yesterday, but the site tacked on $100 in shipping charges so the order was quickly cancelled and I spent a few hours calling all the local hobby stores to find one that stocked any airbrushes at all. Finally found one that had the same Badger brush and since that was the only one I could find I went and bought it. I also found a 2hp compressor in the hardware store for $50 so I'm kind of glad I didn't buy off the web. I also picked up a WWII tank kit yesterday. I figured I better get my skills back in shape before trying anything remotely as difficult as a wooden boat. Surprisingly my wife, who had no exposure to models before, got pretty interested as well and also picked up a kit to work on.
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Jan 30, 2012 16:42
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InternetJunky posted:Thanks! Personally I would have sprung for an airbrush specific compressor if you think you're going to be in the hobby for a while, although $50 isn't bad to find out whether you like it or not. Hardware store compressors are LOUD AS gently caress and will quickly get tiresome. Not sure how big the tank on yours is either, but 3 gal isn't much so it will by cycling on/off relatively often. The low noise on the hobby compressors makes that not matter. My compressor is my biggest gripe right now so I'm shopping for another - model building is supposed to be relaxing. It becomes a lot less so when either the compressor kicks on (because I forgot to turn it off) and scares the poo poo out of me, or I have to stop to refill the tank. http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/ is pretty highly regarded and may be less of a lovely shipping deal (I've never used them though). And Grex compressors seem to be the way to go http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/grco.html I'll probably get that 1/6hp unit with the tank. edit - although I'm not shopping seriously yet and there seem to be some other cool choices (38dB!) compressioncut fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Jan 30, 2012 |
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Jan 30, 2012 20:01
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compressioncut posted:Personally I would have sprung for an airbrush specific compressor if you think you're going to be in the hobby for a while, although $50 isn't bad to find out whether you like it or not. Hardware store compressors are LOUD AS gently caress and will quickly get tiresome. Not sure how big the tank on yours is either, but 3 gal isn't much so it will by cycling on/off relatively often. The low noise on the hobby compressors makes that not matter. Don't buy EuroTec 10A thinking it's 38 db. I noticed that some sites had it listed as 38 db and one site said 48 db. I mailed H&S and asked them to clarify, here's the response: quote:Many thanks for your inquiry. I wound up buying a Sil-Air 15d and save for the safety release valve sounding off when the tank is full, it doesn't bother me one bit.
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Jan 30, 2012 21:36
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Yeah standard compressors are loud as gently caress but you can always just fill the tank and turn it off, a full 40l tank should last you ages at 20psi or so. I have both a airbrush compressor and a standard one, and I often just use the standard one.
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Jan 30, 2012 21:39
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This is true. I went the hardware store compressor route, and it works just fine. The 2 gal tank lasts a long time at 20 psi. Just remember to get a moisture filter for it, if it doesn't come with one. How do people clean their airbrushes? I've been thinking of getting a professional cleaning kit, but I'm not sure if it's worth the money.
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Jan 30, 2012 22:31
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Yes, they work just fine but mine in particular has got to be in the 90dB range (2gal Campbell-Hausfeld). 2 gallons does not last nearly long enough when you have to crank it back on to fill up with family and pets in the house. It's all relative. 40 liters would indeed last forever, but I don't have room. If you can stand the noise then yeah, it's the way to go. I'm not sure the Sil-Air 15 is available from a North American supplier, Chicago has the 20 and it's a ways over what I wanted to spend. 30dB would be unreal, though.
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Jan 30, 2012 23:06
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Nebakenezzer posted:How do people clean their airbrushes? I've been thinking of getting a professional cleaning kit, but I'm not sure if it's worth the money. This is what I do to clean my airbrush after using Vallejo acrylic paints. The process will vary depending on what brand and type of paint you use. After painting, I run some windex with ammonia through the airbrush and spray until I can no longer see the paint coming through. Then I spray a liberal amount of water through it and backflush it a bit. To backflush I hold paper towel directly against the tip and spray into it. Then I clean the area where the paint cup attaches since paint builds up there. I just use a Q-tip for that. I then take out the needle and wipe it on some wet paper towel to remove any paint. If I am just changing colors I will put the needle back in and continue painting, but if I am done I will take the tip assembly off and clean the inside of the body with a Q-tip and maybe clean the inside of the needle holder thing in the tip with a moistened toothpick.
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Jan 30, 2012 23:51
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I've discovered that Windex is good stuff recently; it flushes out Future after spraying extremely well.You can also use it to tidy up the frames of aircraft canopies after painting to make em nice and straight.
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Jan 31, 2012 00:07
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Nebakenezzer posted:This is true. I went the hardware store compressor route, and it works just fine. The 2 gal tank lasts a long time at 20 psi. Just remember to get a moisture filter for it, if it doesn't come with one. I use water-based acrylics. To clean, I run a full jar (1oz) of warm water through, scrub the insides with a nylon brush, run a jar of windex through, then dry. This is essentially the type of brush I use, though I have multiple sizes http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-770210-Nylon-Brush-2-Inch/dp/B002Q2FX6Q/
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Jan 31, 2012 03:59
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PicnicBasket posted:I use water-based acrylics. To clean, I run a full jar (1oz) of warm water through, scrub the insides with a nylon brush, run a jar of windex through, then dry. I've read that windex corrodes brass so it might be a good idea to run some water through afterwards.
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Jan 31, 2012 05:46
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Read a little and saw that ammonia is highly corrosive to brass. I immediately did a paranoia rinse of my airbrush. Thanks for that
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Jan 31, 2012 07:59
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most likely a expensive and silly way of doing it but i like using hobby color thinner, mainly because it will break down most acrylics even if they are really cured, and is also slightly slippery and helps lubricate the needle it seems. got a big clog of paint out of the back of the cup that nothing else would move.
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Jan 31, 2012 09:28
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Current project: Some questions for the experts -- 1.) It looks like the tank turret is designed so that you can move the barrel up or down after assembly. Should I glue the barrel stationary once I decide what angle I want it pointing at? 2.) The wheels that hold the tread have what looks like mold lines down the middle. Is there any way to know if this is intentional or if I should file them smooth? 3.) I'm not sure if it's that visible in the picture, but the hatch door at the top has two circles visible in the middle. Is this some artifact from casting that I should remove? 4.) There are two parts on the body that have what seem to be a copyright notice:  Before I file it smooth I just want to make sure these shouldn't be on the finished tank. Thanks in advance! I'm looking forward to starting to paint today.
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Jan 31, 2012 16:55
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The faint circles and copyright notice aren't supposed to be on a real tank, of course. Sand them off. As for the gun, I leave mine as moveable as possible, unless there isn't enough friction to keep it in the position I want. The marks on the wheels probably aren't supposed to be there either. Look at some pictures of the tank online and see if they're on it. I don't remember Shermans having any marks like that, but it's been ages since I've seen one.
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Jan 31, 2012 19:07
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Ensign Expendable posted:The faint circles and copyright notice aren't supposed to be on a real tank, of course. Sand them off. As for the gun, I leave mine as moveable as possible, unless there isn't enough friction to keep it in the position I want. Those copyright symbols are casting marks, not sure if they are in the right location but they are correct. http://tanksandthings.niceboard.org/t2733-some-of-tmd-s-new-sherman-goodies-reviewed
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Jan 31, 2012 19:15
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Are there any good links or resources online for ship painting and detailing? I picked up a 1/350 scale HMS Warspite and it'll be the first model in a very long time. I've painted some WH40k stuff but nothing like this.
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Feb 1, 2012 16:31
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There is https://www.modelshipwrights.com and that's about all I know for ships, its more of a forum and review site than anything though. you might want to find some good magazines or something. http://www.zvezda.org.ru/?lng=1&nav=&cat=7&set=3573 also I really want this. It looks kinda tough to build and quite finicky but it would be awesome to weather and paint, specially in the three tone green/black/grey scheme. griffia fucked around with this message at 09:03 on Feb 3, 2012 |
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Feb 3, 2012 08:05
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