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Eh, my stash will outlast the quarantine by orders of magnitude.
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May 4, 2020 01:09
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Slugworth posted:The Lego thread has been talking about backlogs and it got me curious - What do you all have squirreled away in closets? Or overflowing spare bedrooms? The forum hates scalemates stash links because they have square brackets in them  code:I'm working on the M18 Hellcat and the King Tiger right now, when I can, since I haven't been in quarantine NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 05:17 on May 4, 2020 |
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May 4, 2020 03:44
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Slugworth posted:The Lego thread has been talking about backlogs and it got me curious - What do you all have squirreled away in closets? Or overflowing spare bedrooms? I have a handful of WW2 and modern era fighter planes. I also have the $150 1/32 Tamiya P-51 Mustang, that is sort of my white whale. I've owned it for several years and still don't have the confidence to take it on. With each model I build, my skills improve, so maybe someday.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwNuQulK6N0
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May 4, 2020 03:51
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Baronjutter posted:Train update That is awesome. That's the kind of thing that got me interested in scale modeling, but I don't have the space or budget to do on that level. Much respect for the long-term dedication it takes to do a project like that. I started on the Hasegawa 1/48 Apache Longbow yesterday, and I can see why the Tamiya M41 was described as very beginner friendly. Lots of parts. So many parts. And many of them need more work to fit than the Tamiya kit did. I don't mind it, but I'm feeling like I bit off a slightly bigger bite than I should have for my second kit. I'm also considering buying a real airbrush and compressor. I live on the middle floor of an apartment building and would like to avoid enraging my neighbors or my cohabitant. I've been browsing online but reviews can't tell me exactly how loud or quiet something is. I did see this and this from Iwata on Amazon which are about as pricey as I'd like to go, but the reviews are mixed at best so I'm looking for any personal recommendations.
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May 4, 2020 10:16
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I think most hobby grade compressors are going to be around 40-50db. I don't think the volume is going to be a problem depending on how thick the walls are. Vibration might be an issue if you have it sitting on the floor vs a table.
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May 4, 2020 13:01
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Vorenus posted:That is awesome. That's the kind of thing that got me interested in scale modeling, but I don't have the space or budget to do on that level. Much respect for the long-term dedication it takes to do a project like that. I bought this Paasche compressor to replace the Master Airbrush compressor that basically everyone uses and it's noticably quieter. I put it on some anti-vibration pads on my desk and it's as dead silent as one of these styles of compressor is going to get. The fans on my paint booth are WAY louder.
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May 4, 2020 13:11
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Sultan Tarquin posted:I think most hobby grade compressors are going to be around 40-50db. I don't think the volume is going to be a problem depending on how thick the walls are. Vibration might be an issue if you have it sitting on the floor vs a table. long-rear end nips Diane posted:I bought this Paasche compressor to replace the Master Airbrush compressor that basically everyone uses and it's noticably quieter. I put it on some anti-vibration pads on my desk and it's as dead silent as one of these styles of compressor is going to get. The fans on my paint booth are WAY louder. That's much quieter than I was expecting, that Paasche is perfect. Thanks a ton! I knew there were options quieter than your stereotypical compressor, but apparently that's around the volume of a normal refrigerator. Much quieter than the stomping troglodyte above me.
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May 4, 2020 16:33
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On the weekend I made a ramp.  I had a massive fuckup because I forgot the tram street ramps down about a half inch. Because of that, the road the truck is on had to be bent up at a sharp angle, too sharp for my tastes but people tell me it's fine.  I also glued down aligned the structure for the elevated rail. The slight kink in the track is just following the kink in the street below, not intentional but its angled things perfectly so the metro train will be totally hidden from view within the curved tunnel. 
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May 4, 2020 16:44
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Baronjutter posted:I had a massive fuckup because I forgot the tram street ramps down about a half inch. Because of that, the road the truck is on had to be bent up at a sharp angle, too sharp for my tastes but people tell me it's fine. I don't think this is a massive fuckup. Don't forget that real life people with real life engineering diplomas still make mistakes. Probably nobody would notice the mistake if you don't point it out in the first place!
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May 4, 2020 17:05
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Slugworth posted:The Lego thread has been talking about backlogs and it got me curious - What do you all have squirreled away in closets? Or overflowing spare bedrooms?  It doesn't all fit in the photo, so I think I'm in good shape.
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May 4, 2020 18:01
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I have a decent amount of kits in the stash right now. The only two I'm hesitant to touch are a 1/48 Albatros Dr I and a 1/48 Gaspatch Salmson. The Dr I is a sorta rare kit and needs some aftermarket lozenge decals. The Salmson is just going to be incredibly annoying to rig, though it looks like its a well-engineered kit. Anyway here's a wip of a Platz 1/72 Mitsubishi F-1:   
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May 4, 2020 18:53
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Vorenus posted:That's much quieter than I was expecting, that Paasche is perfect. Thanks a ton! I knew there were options quieter than your stereotypical compressor, but apparently that's around the volume of a normal refrigerator. Much quieter than the stomping troglodyte above me. Note that the page shows an old version and a new version. There are a bunch of reviews talking about a specific quality control issue, and those mostly seem to be from a few years ago, which makes me suspect they're why there's a new version. The Master compressor everyone and their sister uses is louder than a fridge, but no louder than a normal conversation. It'd annoy anyone in the same room, but won't bother the neighbors.
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May 4, 2020 19:04
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SkunkDuster posted:I have a handful of WW2 and modern era fighter planes. I also have the $150 1/32 Tamiya P-51 Mustang, that is sort of my white whale. I've owned it for several years and still don't have the confidence to take it on. With each model I build, my skills improve, so maybe someday....
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May 4, 2020 19:37
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Baronjutter posted:On the weekend I made a ramp. Could you pay homage to 11foot8 and put a little crossbar and sign on it?
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May 4, 2020 20:19
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This site has a few pretty cool what-if planes.    
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May 4, 2020 20:24
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I have a poo poo ton of stuff stashed around. Armor, aircraft, space sci fi.... Both 1/350 Enterprises (TOS and refit, with light kits), the 2001 EVA pod with etch and lights, the old 1/12 Mercury capsule, an Orion, a Moonbus, and my big 2001 Discovery I'm partway through after scratching a new engine section with as close to screen accurate details as I could get... Yeah, I'll be long dead before I get to all my kits.
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May 4, 2020 22:36
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The joys of wargaming in 20mm means that I measure my stash in "companies". As in "I have about a company worth of Airfix Shermans and Matchbox Fireflies sitting around".
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May 5, 2020 03:13
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I'm getting some Vallejo acrylic Model Color because apparently Tamiya acrylics are bad for brushpainting and it's not me, it's the paint. I'm reading a lot of conflicting information: The paint doesn't need to be thinned, it does need to be thinned. With water. Not water, Vallejo thinner. A mix of vallejo thinner and water. It needs to be primed because Vallejo doesn't adhere to bare plastic as well as Tamiya. Wait, it doesn't need to be primed, I've been brushpainting Model Color for five centuries without ever using primer. Help. 
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May 5, 2020 16:46
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Vorenus posted:I'm getting some Vallejo acrylic Model Color because apparently Tamiya acrylics are bad for brushpainting and it's not me, it's the paint. I'm reading a lot of conflicting information: The paint doesn't need to be thinned, it does need to be thinned. With water. Not water, Vallejo thinner. A mix of vallejo thinner and water. It needs to be primed because Vallejo doesn't adhere to bare plastic as well as Tamiya. Wait, it doesn't need to be primed, I've been brushpainting Model Color for five centuries without ever using primer. You're best bet is to just experiment until you get the result you want. Because like you said, the internet is going to give you a million different (and often contradictory) answers. Although some things I can't see having any real downside, like priming the part before painting. As far as the thinness of the paint, there's always going to be some variance right out of the bottle. I mainly use Tamiya acrylics and it can vary from bottle to bottle and some colors seem to be much thicker/thinner than others. Like I have some colors I cant paint right out of the jar with, and some other ones that are way too thick and need to be thinned and some that are way too thin right out of the bottle. So you need to test it out first.
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May 5, 2020 16:59
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Vallejo Model Colors are thick as hell and definitely need to be thinned. Vallejo Model Air are the pre-thinned variety, the idea being that you can use them in your airbrush straight out of the bottle; in practice, you still need to thin 'em, so you may as well get more paint for your buck by getting the Model or Game Color lines. You can use water, acrylic thinner, whatever ends up working the best for you. I like to use water and flow improver, personally. You're going to have to experiment, but there's no harm in working with varying combinations of water and paint for the time being. I would prime anything I planned on handling later regardless of what paint goes on it. You can get away without priming some times, but your paint's going to be incredibly delicate without it. Badger Stynylrez is the business.
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May 5, 2020 17:29
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Thanks guys! I have a can of Tamiya light gray primer I'll use for now and see how that does. If I'm priming a tank or helicopter, is there any reason not to prime the entire sprue before assembly (assuming I'm not using a black primer on parts that will be painted white, for example) or should I fully build before priming? I ask because looking at the instructions for the Longbow it looks like a lot of these parts may be a headache to prime/paint if I assemble everything first. Just wondering what best practices are or if it's a case-by-case basis.
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May 5, 2020 18:01
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Vorenus posted:Thanks guys! You want to prime in sub-assemblies basically, because primer will reveal any seamlines or imperfections that need to be corrected.
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May 5, 2020 18:10
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So I hear you guys like crapkits. Well, have I got a very special one for you. I bought this one a while back (August 2018) but only now decided I should get started on it, as a side-build with an actual decent kit. Some of you may have heard of the brand MisterCraft, also known as MasterCraft. You may also know that they provide plastic for suspiciously low prices. I've actually built two of their kits before and apparently this wasn't enough to warn me away from them. Presenting the MisterCraft SE-210 Caravelle in glorious 1:144 scale. I unboxed it the first time shortly after getting it, only to discover the decalsheet was only half there. Turns out they've done a few boxings where only build options were present. I ended up contacting them via their site, heard nothing from it for a while until a handwritten envelope from Poland arrived in my mailbox several weeks later, containing an actual full decal sheet and a printed copy of my request. I put the decal in the box and kind of forgot I had this kit until I stumbled upon it earlier this evening when deciding what to build next. It was worse than I remembered. There's a clear marking on the supplied stand indicating its age and origins as a RUCH kit from the 60s. There's so much flash on the parts Ming the Merciless is terrified of it. There's an ejector pin marking straight in the rear stairs (There's no interior detail whatsoever to even make building it open a possible decision) The included decal sheet has lots of issues being not only blurry but also quite out of register (Thankfully the additional one they sent is a bit better). For some reason the wing sprue is molded in a different color from the body sprue, there's no numbering on the sprue outside of a reference guide in the instructions. And speaking of the instructions: A helpful color callout is provided for the needed paints in FS colors, but also a conversion table for other manufacturers. However, said conversion table is mostly all zeroes for all other brands. As always, a picture tells a thousand words, and these are well on their way to writing War and Peace. I'll be building the Sabena version of it. Wish me luck.  Box contents.  Original decal sheet. Note the beautiful printing quality.  Replacement decal sheet offering the actual promised options.  Flash and the ejector pin marking straight through the stairs.  Details of the Sabena version. I'm not even sure all of the decals they ask for are even on the sheet.  Helpful conversion chart!  It gets even better for the second half! The worst part of this is that I'm actually eyeing one of their Draken releases which apparently has its origins in 1957 as a Revell kit... Although that's mainly because I keep reading "A.F." as something other than Air Force.
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May 5, 2020 21:41
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Smoke posted:
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May 5, 2020 22:07
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Are they okay in Poland. Do we need to be worried?
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May 5, 2020 23:32
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Sultan Tarquin posted:Are they okay in Poland. Do we need to be worried? Pierzak fucked around with this message at 00:02 on May 6, 2020 |
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May 5, 2020 23:59
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Vorenus posted:I'm getting some Vallejo acrylic Model Color because apparently Tamiya acrylics are bad for brushpainting and it's not me, it's the paint. I'm reading a lot of conflicting information: The paint doesn't need to be thinned, it does need to be thinned. With water. Not water, Vallejo thinner. A mix of vallejo thinner and water. It needs to be primed because Vallejo doesn't adhere to bare plastic as well as Tamiya. Wait, it doesn't need to be primed, I've been brushpainting Model Color for five centuries without ever using primer. There are two lines: Vallejo Model (or Game) Color and Vallejo Model (or Game) Color Air. The "Air" ones are pre-thinned to be used straight into an airbrush (I personally always still add a drop of Flow Improver), or even just for regular brush painting if you put in on a palette (do NOT put the Air line on a wet palette, that'll thin them way too much). Thinning with a thinner, water or distilled water makes absolutely no difference in my experience. The only thing that'd make a difference is using a Medium, because the goal isn't to thin the paint (as in make it easier to flow) but to thin the pigments within the paint (which makes the paint less opaque - that's how you make your own washes or glazes). So in other words you're thinning the pigments but not the paint itself - you just have less pigment per volume of paint, but the viscosity of the paint is the same. Am I making any sense? I'd definitely recommend using a Primer (Vallejo's are great, just shake them a lot) if only to set the right base of the model/miniature. Mold lines and other imperfections will really stick out after applying paint, and doing it at the priming stage is better than later. In my experience, even with an airbrush, painting over an unprimed model gives bad results and you need a lot more layers to cover properly. Painting with brushes makes this even more of a problem because the layers tend to be less even than with an airbrush. In the long run it just saves time (and paint) to use a primer. But that's just my experience and I'm definitely not the most experienced around here so YMMV.
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May 6, 2020 07:34
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Hello friends, I'm getting back in the game during quarantine. The last stuff I built was probably 18 years ago. Started with a Hasegawa 1/72 JASDF F-104J, which came out OK - made the mistake of following the sequence of instruction so the intakes don't quite align correctly, and I vaguely re-learned how to use enamel paints and apply decals. I probably should have taken the opportunity to switch over to acrylics. Lousy masking jobs. Will do better on my next ones. I also didn't weather or wash it at all so it's Very Shiny. I like weird poo poo so I ordered a Special Hobby Fokker D.XXI Twin Wasp in 1/72, which I'm planning to do in a Finnish winter scheme. The quality so far is OK, but the instructions are dismal. I also ordered an Eduard Profilpack Avia B-534 s.III in 1/72. Seems to be a neat kit, very high quality, great full color instructions and I'll try my hand at doing some rigging by hand. I'm mostly fuckin around at the dining room table so my expectations for results aren't high, but I'm enjoying it and certainly am better than I was as a child.
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May 6, 2020 15:46
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Furism posted:There are two lines: Vallejo Model (or Game) Color and Vallejo Model (or Game) Color Air. The "Air" ones are pre-thinned to be used straight into an airbrush (I personally always still add a drop of Flow Improver), or even just for regular brush painting if you put in on a palette (do NOT put the Air line on a wet palette, that'll thin them way too much). Thinning with a thinner, water or distilled water makes absolutely no difference in my experience. The only thing that'd make a difference is using a Medium, because the goal isn't to thin the paint (as in make it easier to flow) but to thin the pigments within the paint (which makes the paint less opaque - that's how you make your own washes or glazes). So in other words you're thinning the pigments but not the paint itself - you just have less pigment per volume of paint, but the viscosity of the paint is the same. Am I making any sense? I used to work with printing ink so this makes perfect sense, I just didn't think it through in those terms. Thanks for the help folks. I'll give Stynylrez a try. I found several reviews where people complained that they went from Vallejo primer to Stynylrez and it was just the Worst Thing Ever, but I also found a bunch of reviews wherein people went from Stynylrez to Vallejo and declared that to be the Worst Mistake Ever. It looks like maybe Stynylrez doesn't play well with very small needles, but the airbrush I ordered has a .35mm needle so hopefully that will be fine. I also ended up ordering some of Vallejo's Panzer Aces acrylic and I'm looking forward to seeing how it does. Tamiya sprays well even through my current cheap handheld/portable airbrush but the brushing results have been incredibly mixed. It went on easily with no brushstrokes for the figures that came with the M41, but the small rotor subassembly for the AH-64 ended up looking like a kindergartener's watercolor project.
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May 6, 2020 16:46
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The recommendations on the stynylrez bottle says a 0.5 needle. I shoot it out of my 0.4 at about 30psi and it works totally fine so 0.35 might still be alright.
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May 6, 2020 16:52
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I use it at .35, it works great. Just make sure you spray high psi or else it'll clog you up pretty bad
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May 6, 2020 16:57
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Vorenus posted:I used to work with printing ink so this makes perfect sense, I just didn't think it through in those terms. The Vallejo Mecha line has some great primers. Formulated more for resistance to moving parts and for a water based acrylic does hold up extremely well to the fingernail test. The black primer they have also doubles as an excellent flat black. Though nothing is going to beat a decent laquer based primer.
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May 6, 2020 23:32
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grassy gnoll posted:I'm excited to see how your bash turns out, Scut. I like using a bunch of different gauges of wire, with the thinner ones wrapped around the ticker ones for texture for greebly hose bits. 
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May 6, 2020 23:38
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Slugworth posted:The Lego thread has been talking about backlogs and it got me curious - What do you all have squirreled away in closets? Or overflowing spare bedrooms? I have a number of kits waiting for my three year old kid to grow up. I plan on starting him off on some metal kits when the time comes. I had to hide a few of "Daddy's cars (and airplanes)" until he's old enough to not immediately break them.
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May 7, 2020 05:30
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Seeing Cutiekrad reminded me that I didn't take a proper pic of my finished non cutie version. 
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May 7, 2020 13:35
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Sultan Tarquin posted:Seeing Cutiekrad reminded me that I didn't take a proper pic of my finished non cutie version. 
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May 7, 2020 14:11
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Would anybody know how to make that exact kind of tarmac? I have Vallejo's asphalt/black lava texture paint but I think it might be too "chunky" as the picture looks more like a type of cement. Do they have anything in their product line that would work for this? Failing that, is there anything else I could use?
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May 12, 2020 08:48
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Furism posted:Would anybody know how to make that exact kind of tarmac? I've used a sheet of sandpaper before. Find a sheet with the right grit to match the scale tarmac surface texture, glue it down to your surface, then paint as needed.
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May 12, 2020 09:07
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Furism posted:Would anybody know how to make that exact kind of tarmac? Where was the photo taken?
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May 12, 2020 18:05
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Where was the photo taken? A French Navy base in the south of France. They support most of the operations in the Mediterranean Sea. The nuclear aircraft carrier's main port of call (Toulon) is not far from there. I think it's also the school for the last stage of Navy pilots (planes and helicopters). Funnily enough it's a mixed military/civilian airport as they share the same runway (the military and civilian side are clearly separated, besides that).
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May 12, 2020 23:26
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