|
Yes, but most of Hasegawa's newer 1/32 kits are super builder friendly. I finished their 1/32 P-40E in like 12 days a while ago. I'm on track to have this done by May 31st, especially since I'm pretty much building it out of the box.
|
#
?
May 16, 2021 02:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 08:29 |
|
|
I've just finished my 1/48 Airfix Spitfire with mixed results, this is my first kit in over 30 years, I'm not going to post pictures as It's at best OK. I will embark soon on the 1/32 Revell Mosquito (which is bloody huge) and wanted to see advice before I wade in an cock it up. 1) Cement. I was working with normal tube cement which is so imprecise and led to issues around the canopy sections. Whats a recommendation for a better more precise cement? 2) Painting, this is where I really suffered. I am using Humbrol enamel paints and brushes like a basic bitch. Once I worked out using a primer was a good idea my finish improved ten fold but the end result is still showing a lot of unevenness and brush marks. I am also finding that even though I am using matt paints the finish is quite glossy which is emphasizing the previous issues. Any advice welcome (although I am not ready for airbrush life)
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2021 08:50
|
|
|
SoylentCola posted:I've just finished my 1/48 Airfix Spitfire with mixed results, this is my first kit in over 30 years, I'm not going to post pictures as It's at best OK. I will embark soon on the 1/32 Revell Mosquito (which is bloody huge) and wanted to see advice before I wade in an cock it up. Any of the brush on cements are good and I tend to use tamiya extra thin becuase that's what's easily availible to me most of the time. For canopies you can either get one of the specialist canopy glues or I've used pva quite a few times which works but is slow setting. I remember painting things a long time ago with enamels and didn't like them all that much. You could either look at tamiya's line of paints but they can be tricky to brush paint over large areas. something like ak or vallejo might suit better but I haven't used these beyond warhammer minitures so others might have better inputs on the paint front.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2021 09:02
|
|
|
1. Use a liquid glue like Tamiya Extra Thin. Put two parts together dry, then touch the tip of the brush where they meet and watch capillary action pull the glue into the join. Cements and super glues tend to fog clear parts. So I usually use regular white PVA glue for those. 2. I've never used enamels, but brush marks are typically an indicator of paint that is too thick. Thin your pain and apply it in several coats until you achieve the desired opacity. 3. Feel free to post your "ok" work too. We are happy to help with constructive tips and suggestions. We all had our first models too. 
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2021 12:32
|
|
|
Cheers, Will get some liquid cement as recommended. The paint advice is good as well, In future I think I will do a few test paints before doing anything proper. As the new kit is large I may try masking and spray cans for the bigger areas, it seems like the gateway to airbrush. Thanks
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2021 14:05
|
|
|
Try to see if you can find Plastic Magic. Its also liquid glue with a brush like Tamiya, but you can also use it on clear parts.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2021 16:20
|
|
|
I come again looking for advice: I've primed the Merkava, but thinking about going back and doing shading with the primer. I'm not sure this is a good idea as I'm less than great with an airbrush in detail, and this tank doesn't really have a lot of big flat panels like say an Abrams. If I did do shading, I assume I would add black and white respectively to the primer because black -> Israeli sand -> white will probably mess with the actual color of the paint coat unless I do it thick enough that the shading isn't visible. What say you, more experienced goons?
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2021 19:59
|
|
|
Are you thinking of pre-shading or just literally shading your paint job with primer? The former needs pretty heavy contrast and doesn't matter so much if you're precise, the latter is fine but you'd be better off shading with complimentary colors instead of black and white.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2021 21:51
|
|
|
Vorenus posted:I come again looking for advice: I've primed the Merkava, but thinking about going back and doing shading with the primer. I'm not sure this is a good idea as I'm less than great with an airbrush in detail, and this tank doesn't really have a lot of big flat panels like say an Abrams. If I did do shading, I assume I would add black and white respectively to the primer because black -> Israeli sand -> white will probably mess with the actual color of the paint coat unless I do it thick enough that the shading isn't visible. What say you, more experienced goons? Why shade with more primer ? Use darker shades of your intended final color for shading, and lighter for highlights. Based on a couple of gunpla kits I've pre-shaded, you'll want to hit the edges of large flat areas with your shading, and that should be enough. Try a test on some primed sprue, random plastic thing, or the classic plastic spoon before you commit to doing it on the actual model. The trick will be to develop enough control with the airbrush to get a gradient from darkest shade to lightest.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2021 21:55
|
|
|
I keep trying to make this AK metallic wax stuff work because I'm a moron. It never works. Buffing it up for a nice shine is a cool trick, but it never applies evenly and trying to add another layer actively removes the original application. It's visually interesting, sure, but not actually good. I need to bite the bullet and just buy some Alclad.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2021 16:50
|
|
|
If it helps, this looks like a die cast model that has not been painted.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2021 16:57
|
|
|
grassy gnoll posted:I keep trying to make this AK metallic wax stuff work because I'm a moron. Is that basically just Rub & Buff? I don't really have experience with it, but I thought that kinda stuff was meant for hitting high spots or making weathered finishes. Then again my exposure to Rub and Buff is prop videos on YouTube so I'm probably way wrong.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2021 17:36
|
|
|
Different formulation, I think. AK's documentation wants you to slather it directly on your models, but you can airbrush it too. Of course, the only thing that actually seems to thin it is turpentine derivatives, so not great to breathe. It's also a serious motherfucker to clean out of your airbrush, too.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2021 19:58
|
|
|
Yesterday was a IPMS mini-con at my local hobby store and there were a ton of vendors. After a few years of gunpla and the occasional Star Wars fighter I figured I'd branch out and grabbed two aircraft models on the cheap. I'm working on a Dragon 1/72 YF-23 for $5 and this kit is... something. The manual tricked me into gluing the engines too far up so the model shell won't close. I've had to take remodeling into my own hands and file away those angles to let the body shut again. The manual cheerily omitted the 1.5mm gap I needed to leave open for the shell to close.  Also a few other things: 1) the body of the fighter came removed from any sprues and there are gouges of plastic missing down the edges. Is that a Tamiya putty thing or are there other solutions to repairing those spots and then sanding the edges sharp? 2) all the white text on the decal sheet looks yellowed. Is that a quirk of the backing paper and the way they're printing or am I going to slide one of theses guys off and have a giant banana yellow NORTHROP on the nose? Zodack fucked around with this message at 20:20 on May 17, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 17, 2021 20:17
|
|
|
grassy gnoll posted:Different formulation, I think. AK's documentation wants you to slather it directly on your models, but you can airbrush it too. Of course, the only thing that actually seems to thin it is turpentine derivatives, so not great to breathe. It's also a serious motherfucker to clean out of your airbrush, too. I like it for picking out details. Copper tubing and things like that. Haven't tried airbrushing it (nor will I). With the airbrush, I stick to Alclad. edit: I have a Molotow Chrome paint marker in my Amazon cart right now. Has anyone tried one of these out? Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 21:53 on May 17, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 17, 2021 20:46
|
|
|
Zodack posted:1) the body of the fighter came removed from any sprues and there are gouges of plastic missing down the edges. Is that a Tamiya putty thing or are there other solutions to repairing those spots and then sanding the edges sharp?
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2021 22:50
|
|
|
Hey folks if you haven't tried UV glue yet I would totally recommend it. Especially for clear parts. You can apply it where you need it and you basically have as much time to position the part as you want since it doesn't dry until you hit it with the light. And when you do, it dries super fast like 15 seconds and it dries hard as a rock. I only do car models but it has made windshields and windows much easier to glue in place. You can get it on Amazon and it's a little pricey but it should last quite a long time. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZQVH9TR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_9EEEH5WFMVT6VH1NP9Q9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2021 01:18
|
|
|
Huh, does that only work on plastic or PE too?
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2021 02:10
|
|
|
As long as the uv light can get to the glue, it works. So no good for gluing things like wings together, but for clear and fiddly bits at the end it's good. Adhesion can be iffy, though. It can also be used for casting in a shallow, open face mold. A piece of clear styrene on the back will give you a nice flat back. I used it a lot for making greeblies for my 2001 Discovery to better match the prop. The kit details don't really look accurate, and the engine module itself is too narrow. I ended up scratchbuilding mine.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2021 03:24
|
|
|
grassy gnoll posted:I keep trying to make this AK metallic wax stuff work because I'm a moron. can you paint this with a super fine brush to add paint scratches?
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2021 04:01
|
|
|
Charliegrs posted:Hey folks if you haven't tried UV glue yet I would totally recommend it. Especially for clear parts. You can apply it where you need it and you basically have as much time to position the part as you want since it doesn't dry until you hit it with the light. And when you do, it dries super fast like 15 seconds and it dries hard as a rock. I only do car models but it has made windshields and windows much easier to glue in place. You can get it on Amazon and it's a little pricey but it should last quite a long time. I have some clear UV resin for a 3D printer that I bet would also work, though I imagine it would be much thinner than the UV glue. I have used transparent blue/green/red resin for the formation lights on planes and it works exceptionally well, but I don't see any modeler shelling out $30 a bottle of each color just to make some landing lights unless they also have a 3D printer they can use it on. I've heard of people coloring clear two-part epoxy, but I don't know what they used to tint it.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2021 23:54
|
|
|
I believe food dye works pretty well, and is particularly useful if your epoxy is two clear liquids that you really need to mix thoroughly to cure properly. This is obviously most useful when you want the epoxy to end up that colour, you are doing such a thin layer that it won't be visible, or you're just using it as glue and/or are painting over it.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 05:26
|
|
|
SkunkDuster posted:edit: I have a Molotow Chrome paint marker in my Amazon cart right now. Has anyone tried one of these out? Works pretty slick. Nice for small finicky stuff like chrome on car interiors. Can be used for exterior trim, but found I prefer bmf for that. One thing is I find it hard to touch up on stuff hit with it before. Maybe it is better with bigger tips but the pen requires a fair amount amount of pressure and the finish isn't very durable to begin with...doesn't lend itself itself well in that regard. They aren't the cheapest things out there, but all in all nice to have in the toolbox and the pen lasts a while.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 12:24
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
Alumilite brand dyes are really popular for epoxy, and if you're only tinting a few small things, a 1oz bottle is probably a multi-lifetime supply. Stuff's wickedly concentrated, to the point where just barely wetting the end of a toothpick with it might well be enough to oversaturate 10 or 15ml of mixed material.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 17:15
|
|
|
Any 144th plane guys might want to check out this kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/beacon-models/the-few-part-1/description It's one of the guys from Wingnut Wings, only Spitfires and Messerschmitts at the moment but the quality looks pretty good to me. A £15 pledge gets you a 2-pack it looks like. edit: or these guys, who will be a lot of fun to paint at that scale 
Unkempt fucked around with this message at 17:25 on May 19, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 17:17
|
|
|
Symetrique posted:Airbrush advice In an interesting turn of events - it seems I never did actually return the Neo that I mentioned before, because I found it last weekend when I was looking for something completely unrelated to painting. Pretty sure that "frequently blackout drunk post-divorce Acid Reflux" was responsible for that, but thankfully he doesn't live here anymore. I'm going to give it another chance, there's nothing to lose at this point if I end up still not really liking it.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 01:28
|
|
|
Does anyone know any good El cheapo black primers either acrylic or lacquer based? I do car models and the chassis I usually just paint with black primer since it's not an area I look at much plus it simulates undercoating pretty well. I was using Citadels black primer spray but it's pretty expensive. And I haven't heard anything good about Vallejo acrylic based black primer so I was wondering if there was anything else out there that would work well.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 02:27
|
|
|
Charliegrs posted:Does anyone know any good El cheapo black primers either acrylic or lacquer based? I do car models and the chassis I usually just paint with black primer since it's not an area I look at much plus it simulates undercoating pretty well. I was using Citadels black primer spray but it's pretty expensive. And I haven't heard anything good about Vallejo acrylic based black primer so I was wondering if there was anything else out there that would work well. I've never had issues with Vallejo's black primer.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 02:30
|
|
|
Charliegrs posted:Does anyone know any good El cheapo black primers either acrylic or lacquer based? I do car models and the chassis I usually just paint with black primer since it's not an area I look at much plus it simulates undercoating pretty well. I was using Citadels black primer spray but it's pretty expensive. And I haven't heard anything good about Vallejo acrylic based black primer so I was wondering if there was anything else out there that would work well. Mr. Hobby makes a Mr. Surfacer 1500 black which is a fantastic lacquer based primer. It isn't el cheapo, but if you are airbrushing, a little goes a long way.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 03:00
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:Just wanted to say thanks again for the suggestions. I ended up going with an Eclipse HP-BCS and it's friggin' fantastic. As many years as it's been, I still managed to spray an uneven but passable coat of Stynylrez primer on to some cardboard today without clogging or breaking anything, and it's super easy to clean. I'm looking forward to this weekend when I'll have some time to sit down and get some practice time in. Glad it worked out for you! The Neo isn't that bad of an airbrush and should work well for more detailed work compared to the BCS. Charliegrs posted:Does anyone know any good El cheapo black primers either acrylic or lacquer based? I do car models and the chassis I usually just paint with black primer since it's not an area I look at much plus it simulates undercoating pretty well. I was using Citadels black primer spray but it's pretty expensive. And I haven't heard anything good about Vallejo acrylic based black primer so I was wondering if there was anything else out there that would work well. Stynylrez black would be pretty good for this. If not, Surfacer 1500 black is also great.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 06:12
|
|
|
Tried to salvage the P-35, with mixed results.    I sanded it back a little and applied another coat of the AK metallic. That took care of some of the patchiness, but clearly not all of it. I varnished this one with Future to try and preserve as much of the sheen as I could for panel lining - regular acrylic varnishes flatten it back down in a heartbeat. The turpenoid thinner in my wash still ate away both the varnish and the paint. But it's done, and I learned several things not to do, so that's something. The kit itself is perfectly cromulent. Special Hobby 1/72 P-35. The spats and guns were resin parts, which probably could be done with regular plastic these days without too much fuss, but they were nice to have.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 15:33
|
|
|
Whats a good thinner to use for Tamiya putty? I have Tamiya lacquer thinner would that work?
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 20:13
|
|
|
grassy gnoll posted:Tried to salvage the P-35, with mixed results. Looks pretty great TBH. I think it's likely difficult to photograph it so that we can see the problem.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 22:02
|
|
|
Charliegrs posted:Whats a good thinner to use for Tamiya putty? I have Tamiya lacquer thinner would that work? I think so yeah. I thin down tamiya grey putty with mr color laquer thinner.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 22:03
|
|
|
Charliegrs posted:Whats a good thinner to use for Tamiya putty? I have Tamiya lacquer thinner would that work? Perhaps blasphemous, but I use Tamiya extra thin cement.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2021 00:31
|
|
|
grassy gnoll posted:Tried to salvage the P-35, with mixed results. Yeah, that looks pretty good. I don't know how you were applying that stuff, but I wonder if one thing that might help the patchiness you ran into would be focus on applying it one or two panels at a time? Might still end up patchy, but maybe you can make it look like it's not so much an issue with the application of a paint, but just differences in each panel?
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2021 01:06
|
|
|
Charliegrs posted:Whats a good thinner to use for Tamiya putty? I have Tamiya lacquer thinner would that work? I use Tamiya cement, the regular kind with the orange cap, just so I wouldn't have to burn my Extra Thin. The nice stuff works too, if you don't feel like buying a new bottle. Arquinsiel posted:Looks pretty great TBH. I think it's likely difficult to photograph it so that we can see the problem. It's definitely shiny enough to blow out the white balance on my camera. Believe it or not, these are post-corrected. Cthulu Carl posted:Yeah, that looks pretty good. So my second attempt after the sanding was airbrushed on in extremely thin coats, and that took a little better. I did another test on a different model, and the prime issue with the patchiness is that I originally used gloss black primer, instead of flat black, making the foolish assumption that it'd work like other metallics. It's still gummy and hates weathering and varnishes, but I guess that's not so wild for a metallic effect paint. Maybe this'll help someone down the line, maybe not, but at least it's recorded somewhere now.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2021 16:48
|
|
|
Whats the generic name for one of these dust/sanding booths?  Haven't been able to find any similar ones.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2021 03:30
|
|
|
Glovebox? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glovebox
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2021 03:31
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 08:29 |
|
|
Yeah thats what I was thinking but only DIY options turn up.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2021 03:33
|
|