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Just a quick update. I went out to my local Hobby Lobby and ended up getting cold feet and coming back empty handed. All they had was an Iwata Eclipse for $179.00 so with my 40% off coupon would have been a decent buy. All the compressors they had were of no brand name and the only decent one was $279.00 and even with the 30% off they had it on sale for I think was too much for something I couldn't determine the brand name for. I had a stroll around the 'Hobby' section to see what sort of things they had in terms of other supplies but I was mostly disappointed. I might go back tomorrow to at least get that nice AB on such a good deal. I still wanted to spring for maybe a Revolution and save a bit of cash but I do realize the Eclipse is better and that's a nice price on it.
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Nov 27, 2009 22:40
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Shachi posted:Just a quick update. I went out to my local Hobby Lobby and ended up getting cold feet and coming back empty handed. I personally wish I'd gotten a "real" air compressor from a hardware store. You can always dial down the pressure and put a different hose on it. If you get one with a big enough tank, it'll just run for a little while and then you can spray with the pressure in the tank. It sounds like it would cost less, too, than what you're looking at.
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Nov 27, 2009 23:19
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You could always go the route I did and get a CO2 cylinder. Totally silent, no moisture whatsoever, no air pulsation, and cheap to fill. You can buy them at virtually any welding supply store, or even restaurant supply, and some hardware stores will carry them. The tricky bit is finding a regulator that will dial down the pressure for AB needs. I went with a regulator made for soda use, as soda dispensers need their gas delivered at sub-100psi levels.
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Nov 28, 2009 06:10
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Thanks for the tips. I'll def look into that. $275 for a hobby compressor when I could get a nice one at Home Depot is aggravating. My only thing is the noise level. Charging that thing in the house would not be appreciated by the g/f. Where did you get the regulator from? Can you point me in the right direction for what I'd need. EDIT: I found this http://www.atalantadesign.com/CO2Setup.html Is this something like you are talking about? Is a 20LB tank pretty much the norm or is it overkill? My only other thought is something like this http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ5zas2/R-202018100/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 Just have to charge the thing outside before working with it. It's attractive at the price. Shachi fucked around with this message at 13:13 on Nov 28, 2009 |
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Nov 28, 2009 10:42
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Those compressor prices sound ridiculous, try this one, exactly the same tank I've got, $148 shipped. It comes with a free hose which I had to pay an extra £10 for, regulator built in, it's reasonably quiet too.
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Nov 28, 2009 14:36
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Pagan posted:I personally wish I'd gotten a "real" air compressor from a hardware store. You can always dial down the pressure and put a different hose on it. If you get one with a big enough tank, it'll just run for a little while and then you can spray with the pressure in the tank. It sounds like it would cost less, too, than what you're looking at. My dad turns fishing lures out of wood on his lathe and he bought an airbrush set off of ebay for about $90. Its for airbrushing nails and tattoos I think, but it works fine for models and lures. He is a carpenter so he has a pile of airtools and just uses a little makita compressor for airbrushing.
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Nov 28, 2009 16:21
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Cakefool posted:Those compressor prices sound ridiculous, try this one, exactly the same tank I've got, $148 shipped. It comes with a free hose which I had to pay an extra £10 for, regulator built in, it's reasonably quiet too. Thanks for this. I think I'll be getting my AB from this same store as they are significantly cheaper. Anyone got some swear-bys on model paints? Model Masters and Testors are the ones with the widest selection in my local stores. I pretty much got the idea that Testors is mostly crap, banking on brand recognition. Anyone have any experience with Model Masters in terms of thinning for spray or brushing? I'd love to buy some Tamiya or Mr. Hobby stuff but something about having to order online and wait for stuff as opposed to finding something local that I can go out and pick up at will would be better. I haven't tried the HobbyTown USA or my local store and I'm pretty sure they carry a lot of import stuff so maybe that'll produce better results. I was curious about following one of Narita-san's tutorials but he only uses Tamiya and Mr. Hobby stuff. Also can anyone explain how washes work for shading and weathering? Like how to make them/use them? Shachi fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Nov 28, 2009 |
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Nov 28, 2009 22:55
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If you can find them locally, Vallejo paints are amazing. They have a standard range as well as thinner range ready for airbrush use. They're a bit pricey, so ordering them can definitely cost you a bit. Model Master are pretty good too. Freak Flex and Freestyle paints are also really good for AB use, but you're unlikely to find those on a store shelf, so they would be order only. Avoid Testors. Yeah, it's found everywhere, but the quality is crap and it'll look crap on your models and clog an AB in a heartbeat. As for the your earlier question about CO2 tanks, yeah, the link you provided is basically the setup I have, and would work great for you should you go that route.
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Nov 29, 2009 02:06
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:If you can find them locally, Vallejo paints are amazing. They have a standard range as well as thinner range ready for airbrush use. They're a bit pricey, so ordering them can definitely cost you a bit. Model Master are pretty good too. Freak Flex and Freestyle paints are also really good for AB use, but you're unlikely to find those on a store shelf, so they would be order only. Thanks! Looks like Model Masters is basically just the primo Testors brand. Aside from that Velljo isn't locally available but looks like my local store carries Tamiya stuff...at least that's whats online. I wont get a chance to go by there till later. In the mean time it's just a matter of deciding between the compressor that was linked earlier vs. going for a CO2 tank. Thanks for all the help. I'll update when I have my nerd station up and running
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Nov 29, 2009 11:14
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I used to make models when I was younger like a lot of other guys in this thread, and I'm just now thinking of getting back into the hobby. I was strictly a beginner back then - no painting or anything of the sort so I'm thinking of starting with something on the easier end, maybe a WWII aircraft or something. If I take to the hobby though, I was hoping to eventually build some helicopters. Do any of you have experience with that? Specifically, I've been trying to find a model of the MH-53 Pave-low, but I haven't seen anything. Helicopters look pretty complicated so I figured I'd hold off, at least initially. Also, I'd love to see more photos of all of your finished work, as sort of an inspiration to begin. A picture of a pave-low below, for reference: ZenMastaT fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Nov 29, 2009 |
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Nov 29, 2009 18:33
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ZenMastaT posted:I used to make models when I was younger like a lot of other guys in this thread, and I'm just now thinking of getting back into the hobby. I was strictly a beginner back then - no painting or anything of the sort so I'm thinking of starting with something on the easier end, maybe a WWII aircraft or something. MH-53E Sea Dragon in 1:48: http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=MH12703 CH-53E Super Sea Stallion in 1:48: http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=MH12209 You could try to convert these if you want a larger model (these things are pretty big in that scale), but I don't know of a conversion kit that would facilitate that. There is, however, a 1:72 MH-53J Pave Low III made by Italeri. I can't seem to find it for sale on any model sites any more, so it must be out of production right now. I'd suggest checking eBay if you're interested in it. Here's some pictures of a finished one: http://arcair.com/Gal6/5601-5700/gal5640_MH53_Yilmaz/00.shtm (by the way, if you want inspiration you can't go wrong with ARC's massive gallery, including pictures from some of the best modelers in the world) Regarding air compressor discussion, I bought the "no brand" green boxy thing that Hobby Lobby carries and I'm quite satisfied with it. It has no tank, which means it runs on demand, but it is very quiet. I added a drier/filter and it has served me well with my Iwata Revolution CR. I don't recall how much I paid for it but I did use a 40% off coupon. 
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Nov 30, 2009 14:46
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If I wanted to make a ratchet & pawl detented joint on a custom, how would I do this? Should I carve some nylon to make the proper pawl and use a pre-made nylon gear, or are there kits that I can raid to get a good nylon ratcheting joint?
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Nov 30, 2009 20:10
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to get exactly what you want in the right size, you're either going to get magic lucky or make it yourself I'm afraid. Comedy option, try lego
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Nov 30, 2009 21:07
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Powdered Toast Man posted:
Just wanted to thank you for the advice. For some reason I was being exceptionally thick headed and totally forgot to search out the other MH-53 variants that might exist in model form. Stopped by a local hobby shop today and picked up an Italeri kit (The Super Sea Stallion). Bought some cement and a knife - just going to wait for that touch and flow applicator to arrive in the mail.
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Nov 30, 2009 21:40
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Shachi posted:^^^ Nah, I do the same. Love modelling and painting and reading about the universe but don't have any interest in the actual game.
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Nov 30, 2009 21:54
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Does anyone have any info on the "Masters" brand of AB? http://cgi.ebay.com/Fine-Detail-DUA...=item2ea974c2e0 Not only is the price somewhat attractive, it's a 1" to hairline spray range which seems kind of nice. I know when picking between the Iwata Revolution or Eclipse there is a significant paint range that one does that the other cannot. Anyone got any suggestions on what I should get between those? EDIT: Never mind about the Master AB I asked about. I did a bit of searching and found a lot of "you get what you pay for, dumbass." My question between the Revo and the Eclipse still stands. I'll be using the thing for general use; laying basecoats, detail work, washes, etc. Shachi fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Nov 30, 2009 |
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Nov 30, 2009 22:05
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Shachi posted:Does anyone have any info on the "Masters" brand of AB? Dual action is the way to go, no matter what particular model or brand that you get. Beyond that, consider how much detail work you think you'll be doing. A gravity feed cup airbrush is best for detail work because the paint flow is easier to control. This doesn't mean that you can't do large area painting with it, just that it may take longer and the cup doesn't hold as much paint as a bottom-feed bottle. I have a Revolution CR (gravity feed cup) and I've used it for both detail work and laying down a base coat on an entire model. Looking at Iwata's specs, the main difference I can see between the Revolution and Eclipse lines is that they specifically state that the Eclipse is capable of dealing with thicker, heavier paints. For working on models, however, you're going to want to avoid thickness and thin the paint down with water (for acrylics) or thinner (for lacquers). It might mean you have to lay down multiple coats but the control is worth it.
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Dec 2, 2009 14:28
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Would any of you know what paint (applied by paintbrush) most closely resembles US Navy gray? My helicopter model thing recommends gunship gray, but some reviews and online galleries show that this is a ridiculous color which is too dark and wrong. Also, if I'm planning to paint something for the first time, sans airbrush, are there any general tips or is painting everything solid gray hard to gently caress up like I hope it is.
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Dec 4, 2009 01:12
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ZenMastaT posted:Would any of you know what paint (applied by paintbrush) most closely resembles US Navy gray? My helicopter model thing recommends gunship gray, but some reviews and online galleries show that this is a ridiculous color which is too dark and wrong. Just go to your local model shop and buy whatever looks closest to you. No one is going to worry if it's slightly different than the real colour. As long as it looks right to you, that's what counts. As far painting large, relatively flat surfaces like a ships hull with a brush, well..... good luck. Brush strokes are a bitch, and they're exacerbated when painting a flat surface that will show them more. AB's were basically made for this sort of work; covering large relatively flat surfaces with paint without showing brush strokes. If you have to use a brush, I'd recommend using an enamel paint, as it'll go on a bit smoother than an acrylic. Make sure you get a good primer coat on their as well. I personally prefer Duplicolor automotive primer. Best rattle-can primer I've seen so far.
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Dec 4, 2009 16:27
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ZenMastaT posted:Would any of you know what paint (applied by paintbrush) most closely resembles US Navy gray? My helicopter model thing recommends gunship gray, but some reviews and online galleries show that this is a ridiculous color which is too dark and wrong. Vallejo Model Colour has a selection of greys and I'm certain of them one of them will be a close match for US Navy grey - accurate military colour matches are pretty much their thing.
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Dec 7, 2009 23:37
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ZenMastaT posted:Would any of you know what paint (applied by paintbrush) most closely resembles US Navy gray? My helicopter model thing recommends gunship gray, but some reviews and online galleries show that this is a ridiculous color which is too dark and wrong. What you need is the 'FS' number for the particular shade. Check it out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Federal_Standard_595 You'll find that any paint maker that makes colors for painting military hardware will have a full assortment of FS shades, including that particular shade of grey. This is just a guess, but I'm leaning towards FS36320: http://www.colorserver.net/showcolor.asp?fs=36320 "Dark Ghost Gray" You might want to consider having fun with some weathering techniques, because this is definitely a "dirty bird".
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Dec 8, 2009 16:40
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Thanks again for all your advice guys. I picked up some Tamiya acrylic paints that look like they should do the job alright - it turns out I may be able to drum up an airbrush and a compressor from a relative in the near future so if I don't lose patience by then I may go that route. For now I'm satisfied with the challenge of just putting the thing together. Speaking of which, I have been running into a rather stupid problem that I can't seem to come up with a solution for. While joining the two main halves of the body of the helicopter together I find it difficult to get glue down in all the right places before it dries. I'm using a touch-N-flow applicator along the inside of the seams where the two halves will meet but because I'm trying to go around the entire helicopter's body in one go the glue either dries before I can join the body together properly or the touch-N-flow runs out of glue in its reservoir. Here is a link to a review of the kit I am building if that gives you a better idea of what I am talking about : http://www.cybermodeler.com/hobby/kits/it/kit_it_1065.shtml I ended up joining the body together with less glue than I would have liked - then adding more glue to the exterior of the seam after the two halves were already joined. This resulted in some "glue marks" or whatever you call them where you can see evidence of dried glue on the exterior. Is this the type of thing that is just expected or am I too clumsy?
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Dec 9, 2009 17:51
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Generally you don't need to glue 100% of the seam, a few spots here & there will be adequate.
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Dec 9, 2009 20:00
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ZenMastaT posted:Thanks again for all your advice guys. I picked up some Tamiya acrylic paints that look like they should do the job alright - it turns out I may be able to drum up an airbrush and a compressor from a relative in the near future so if I don't lose patience by then I may go that route. For now I'm satisfied with the challenge of just putting the thing together. You'll find that the touch-n-flow works best if you put the two parts together and then touch the seam to let the liquid cement flow into it. Hold the parts together tightly during this and wait until it seems to have set up. Alternatively, you may need to clamp it together if it won't hold together at rest-as in, if the plastic is warped so that you have to actually force the seam together, which is reasonably common. You can also hold it together with strategically placed masking tape. The 'dried glue' marks that you speak of will disappear with paint, don't worry about them. That's just something the liquid cement does when it evaporates off the plastic.
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Dec 9, 2009 21:03
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Cool. One other thing I forgot to mention - I've been having a little trouble refilling the touch-n-flow applicator after each use. The little instruction sheet says I should drag it out across some paper to insure it is empty before refilling. I do this but often it will take a few minutes to totally clear of air and start refilling from the bottle - even with judicious flicking of the needle end. The glue I'm using is MicroMark brand "SameStuff" generic version of Tenax-7R. Oh yeah, how long should you let modeling putty sit to dry after application before you try to sand it?
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Dec 9, 2009 21:41
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ZenMastaT posted:Cool. One other thing I forgot to mention - I've been having a little trouble refilling the touch-n-flow applicator after each use. The little instruction sheet says I should drag it out across some paper to insure it is empty before refilling. I do this but often it will take a few minutes to totally clear of air and start refilling from the bottle - even with judicious flicking of the needle end. As cool as the Touch-N-Flow is, I find it to be more of a pain than anything. All the troubles you mentioned, as well as the fact that at some point it'll probably clog. I find cheap disposable brushes work fine and are far cheaper. You can usually get small cheap ones for a dime at a lot of model shops, and they'll last for two or three models. As for the problems with glue spots, it called crazing and it's something every modeler has to deal with. Just use glue sparingly, glue on the inside of parts if you can, and any leftover crazing can be minimized with some light sanding. If something goes horribly wrong, you can always turn the rough spot into some texture for rust or splash of mud.
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Dec 10, 2009 07:08
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Well, when I got my touch-n-flow it came in a kit with some Tenax-7R and also included was a 'needle bottle' which is basically a plastic bottle with a tiny metal tube coming out of the cap. This allows you to easily fill the touch-n-flow's tube because it fits inside.
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Dec 10, 2009 14:48
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So, are 1/72 kits meant to be put together with tweezers? Trying to glue a 3mm gearstick into place is just a nightmare!
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Dec 10, 2009 21:28
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Danger - Octopus! posted:So, are 1/72 kits meant to be put together with tweezers? Trying to glue a 3mm gearstick into place is just a nightmare! I was actually thinking of moving up to 1/48 for the next thing I build for that same reason. Since the pair of tweezers I have are kind of dumb and awkward I ended up rolling up a tiny strip of masking tape and using that, stuck to the part and one finger, to get things into place. Not the best solution and I definitely hosed up a couple times. Still, at least with helicopters, it seems like 1/72 scale has a much wider variety of models available and I'd kind of like to keep everything I build around the same scale. Powdered Toast Man mentioned weathering earlier and from the galleries I've been browsing, that seems to be what makes the difference between something that is well put together and something amazing. Is weathering too much for a rank amateur like myself to attempt, or is it easier than it seems? What kind of techniques do you use to, say, simulate the effects of jet exhaust or oil leaks? I read some of that crazy Japanese guy's how-to guides but they are so perfect and involved that I find myself intimidated. I'd also love some tips about painting in general too. The instructions make it seem like you should paint each piece before you apply it but the different build guides I've read seem to indicate otherwise. Plus if there are gaps and putty and sanding are required then painting before hand would be a mistake. Anyway, sorry for all my repeated questions in this thread but I keep stumbling into things that confuse me.
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Dec 10, 2009 22:16
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ZenMastaT posted:I was actually thinking of moving up to 1/48 for the next thing I build for that same reason. Since the pair of tweezers I have are kind of dumb and awkward I ended up rolling up a tiny strip of masking tape and using that, stuck to the part and one finger, to get things into place. Not the best solution and I definitely hosed up a couple times. Weathering is something I've never found very difficult. I find it easier (and more interesting) than a polished perfect brand new machine. It's much easier for me to simulate a beat up, dirty tank than a shiny candy apple red Camaro. There are dozens of techniques out there to simulate weathering, far too many to list in one post. An airbrush is important, tho. The real pros end up using things like enamel and even oil based paints. Generally, you're best off building in assemblies or sub assemblies, then gluing those together. For example, build the cockpit and paint it, then place it inside the hull, mask it off, then paint the hull. Any putty or extra work done to make parts fit obviously needs to be done before painting. On the other hand, it's all about how much work you want to do. Some people go crazy; they seal off their garage and wash it before airbrushing to minimize dust, they'll scratchbuild controls and assemblies that won't ever even be SEEN once the model is completed. Other people are happy to slap together a kit and just paint what's on the outside.
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Dec 10, 2009 22:27
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Buy a few modelling magazines to take a look at weathering. Most of them have build/paint reports where they show step by step photos and descriptions which are really good for working out how to attempt fancy techniques like weathering, pre-shading, filters, oil washes and that sort of thing. I don't usually paint each piece before assembly. It's worth reading through the instructions and working out if there will be any visible parts that will be impossible to reach (interiors of a helicopter, for example, if you're going to model it with doors open, or the interior of a cockpit with a clear canopy) once it's made and paint those prior to assembly or, as Pagan says, when that sub-assembly is complete. 1/48 and 1/35 are in some ways more forgiving than 1/72 as far as assembly goes, but as soon as you get a detailed kit, you'll find even tinier parts to represent details that aren't even present on a 1/72 kit. While I'm struggling to glue a tiny gearstick into place, in 1/35 it would have a separate piece for the knob on top, and those windscreen wipers might be photoetch.
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Dec 10, 2009 23:06
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So what do you guys use to apply modeling putty to gaps? I tried using a Q-Tip but it tends to smear a bit more than I'd like and the cotton can get stuck to the model too.
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Dec 11, 2009 08:11
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ZenMastaT posted:So what do you guys use to apply modeling putty to gaps? I tried using a Q-Tip but it tends to smear a bit more than I'd like and the cotton can get stuck to the model too. Anything with a smooth, flat surface will do, although something with a bit of give is helpful. I personally use plastic cutlery knives or wooden coffee stirrers. Speaking of wooden coffee stirrers, those things are great. You can buy a box of something like 1000 for $10 on eBay, and they're great for mixing paint, spreading putty, sculpting, and even some scratchbuilding of angular surfaces.
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Dec 11, 2009 09:08
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My solution for the majority of weathering is to buy a set of pastels and have a wide array of brushes on hand. Sweep them across the chalks and onto the painted model. Kinda like doing make-up. To seal it all in, afterward, go over the finished product with some airbrushed flat clearcote or gloss, depending on what you're doing. Edit: I have a larger set of these pastels here:  Click here for the full 1518x882 image. permanoob fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Dec 13, 2009 |
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Dec 11, 2009 17:31
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ZenMastaT posted:So what do you guys use to apply modeling putty to gaps? I tried using a Q-Tip but it tends to smear a bit more than I'd like and the cotton can get stuck to the model too. I use a thin rectangle of plasticard, to be honest.
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Dec 11, 2009 20:19
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I use a clayshaper to apply modelling putty.
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Dec 11, 2009 21:15
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ZenMastaT posted:So what do you guys use to apply modeling putty to gaps? I tried using a Q-Tip but it tends to smear a bit more than I'd like and the cotton can get stuck to the model too. I use mr surfacer and a dedicated paint brush. But you can make your own just by disolving some putty in the right thinner (for tamiya and mr surfacer its a lacquer thinner).
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Dec 11, 2009 23:13
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Is a "flat base" the same as a primer? I bought some Tamiya paint with that as a label with the idea of starting my painting experiments there. In other news, my hilariously ill-fated experiment to paint a completed model with a brush and acrylics is turning out about as well as you might expect. This is literally my first time ever attempting to paint a model, and the first time I have used paint since probably elementary school. Needless to say I am not great. I'm going to get an airbrush some time after christmas but I got impatient, having already finished my first build so I bought some acrylics for use with paint brushes against advice here. Should I just give up until I have a shot at learning an airbrush, should I go out and buy some enamels, or should I kick myself for being too lazy to paint the thing before I had it completely built up? ZenMastaT fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Dec 12, 2009 |
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Dec 12, 2009 20:00
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Powdered Toast Man posted:I got my compressor with my favorite hook up for otherwise expensive items: Hobby Lobby, if there is one near you, frequently puts out a 40% off coupon that is good for anything in the store. That's a big savings on a $120 airbrush compressor! Thanks for the tip! Here is the link to next week's coupon: http://hobbylobby.com/assets/dynamic/_weekly.coupon/2009_51_coupon.gif
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Dec 13, 2009 20:32
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I had no idea this thread existed until it was linked in the Warhammer thread. Ok, so I'm not an experienced model builder. I've dabbled in painting gaming stuff, but my first real kits were actually Doyusha castles that I built because I really like old castles:     After that I picked up a battleship on a whim, and put it together. My girlfriend was curious about it and helped me paint it, so the painting pattern was pretty simple as it was her first kit ever:   Now I'm trying to do a little more serious work. I was looking for a T-72 tank but the shop didn't have one, so I settled for a Dragon T-34 kit. I've also ordered some tank crew models and a diorama to put them in from Miniart, but they haven't arrived yet. Since I'm stuck without an airbrush I settled with going for a more hastily applied whitewash camo, which I put on with stippling and lots and lots of turpentine.  I'm pretty happy with it considering it's my first tank. I hope it will look better once I put it in a diorama too, with other things to divert from the mistakes (the threads look really bad from the other side, for one thing). I'm already thinking about what the next project might be, but it might be a tank because tanks rock.
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Dec 13, 2009 21:23
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