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I am interested in historical spacecraft and rockets and want to get into building models of them. I'm in an information-gathering stage right now regarding construction and painting. One thing that I'm not sure about is how to paint a model like this http://realspacemodels.com/html/atlaspg.htm which has a lot of shiny silver parts. The manufacturer of the model recommends Bare-Metal Foil but that seems like it would work better on a model like this http://realspacemodels.com/html/72gtpg.htm which has smaller silver sections. Is it possible to use an airbrush to get an even shiny-metal-looking finish? Fake edit: Just want to note that I plan on doing some cheaper plastic models first before spending the money on the resin models, though those are my goal since they look most accurate.
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Apr 6, 2011 22:08
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I am about to start working on a Revell lunar module and I need to attach some gold foil to a couple parts. What kind of glue would work best for that?
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Oct 2, 2011 18:09
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I've got half of my lunar module built, and for my first ever model, I think it's going well. I've made a million mistakes but I'm learning a lot and having a great time. I am painting with acrylic paints, and have painted a bit on top of foil. The paint scratches off of the foil very easily, so I want to seal it somehow. There are some ares of paint that I want matte, some paint that I want shiny, and of course I want the foil to stay shiny. How would I go about this? Also, do you guys have any general modeling tips you wish you would have known as a beginner? I'm trying to avoid as many stupid mistakes as possible.
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Oct 13, 2011 06:08
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My lunar lander is finished. It's my very first model and I'm happy with how it turned out. I added a lot more detail than what is in the kit instructions and painted it to be more accurate. I ended up buying an airbrush after trying to paint the ascent module with a brush. I made a million mistakes and there are things that look bad, but I had a lot of fun making it. I've since started on an original series Enterprise and am glad to be doing something that doesn't involve gluing foil.                  Album: http://imgur.com/a/sUhYd Here were my primary sources, in case anyone else ever wants to do this kit: http://spacemodels.nuxit.net/LEM-24/index.htm http://airfixtributeforum.myfastforum.org/viewtopic.php?t=19206&start=0 http://spacemodels.nuxit.net/LEM-24/Descent%20stage/Descent%20Stage%20Coating.pdf http://www.apollomaniacs.com/apollo/lme.htm http://grin.hq.nasa.gov/IMAGES/LARGE/GPN-2000-001210.jpg http://www.spaceinminiature.com/ref/apollo/sim7_photos1.html http://next.nasa.gov/alsj/a11/A11BA-Flown-Suit.html who cares fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Dec 5, 2011 |
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Dec 5, 2011 00:52
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I just did a lot of reading on airbrushes and compressors, so I'll tell you what I got for my first set, and my rationale behind the purchases. For the airbrush itself, I got a Badger 155. A lot of people on modeling forums recommend that you get a single action brush to start with, but I figured I'd just get a dual action and deal with a potentially steeper learning curve in order to have an airbrush that will allow me more control once I get better. For the compressor, I got a TC-20T from TCP Global. I am reluctant to recommend TCP Global since they sent me the wrong product at first, but I don't know where else you can get that compressor. This seemed to be one of the most highly-recommended budget compressors. I chose the TC-20T over the cheaper TC-20 because I read compressors with tanks are less likely to have air pulsation problems. I bought a cheap compressor since I figured that it will take a while for my airbrushing skill to get good enough to warrant something more expensive. The hose that came with the airbrush had an 1/8" fitting and the outlet on the compressor was 1/4". I bought an adapter from the plumbing section of a hardware store, along with some teflon tape, and it works great. This website has great airbrush reviews and tips: https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/ The reason I chose the 155 is because of this site.
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Dec 6, 2011 01:47
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Morgenthau posted:I see the moon lander's finished! Nice work there you really nailed the foil work. Thanks for the compliments. If you mean non-scifi space kits, there are a couple of manufacturers who make resin kits, and then some plastic kits here and there. RealSpace Models and NewWare both make some really cool resin kits. As far as plastic kits go, Airfix makes a couple. Revell has the Buzz Aldrin Rocket Hero line, which my lunar lander was from. A really cool kit that just came out is the rerelease of the AMT Man in Space kit. It has the Mercury-Redstone, Mercury-Atlas, Gemini-Titan, Apollo-Saturn 1B an Apollo-Saturn V launch vehicles all in the same scale. I just bought this and I'm going to build it once I'm done with my Enterprise. Revell is also rereleasing a combo pack of 1/48 Mercury and Gemini capsules soon, and RealSpace sells kits to make the capsules more accurate. A lot of different manufacturers make space shuttle stacks. CultTVMan has a good selection of real space subjects for sale, if you want to browse around. The Space Modelers Yahoo group is a good resource for space modeling information. who cares fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Dec 6, 2011 |
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Dec 6, 2011 17:17
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What techniques can you use to get a paintjob that looks like the one on this Corsair? I like the way the blue looks worn out and faded and some places, rather than just being a uniform color.
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Dec 28, 2011 23:37
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I ordered a set of photoetch parts for the cockpit of the Corsair that I will be starting soon. They came in the mail today, and HOLY CRAP some of the pieces are small. I don't really know what I was expecting, but I didn't expect them to be that tiny. I've read several general articles about working with photoetch, but would appreciate any additional tips you guys might have.
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Jan 9, 2012 22:58
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First time with photo etch is going okay, save for flinging one piece off into oblivion. I'm sure the next time I'll see it is when it gets lodged in my foot. EDIT: To pick up small pieces I have been rolling up a bit of poster putty into a tiny cylinder and touching the end of it to the photo etch piece. I holds pretty well and I can see where I'm going with it. Once the glue dries I pull the poster putty away. EDIT2: Some progress. I had a hard time taking pictures and getting everything in focus. Also I accidentally stuck the case thing (I have no idea what its for) to my finger and some of the color came off the part. Oh well, I'm calling it weathering. Hopefully it's not supposed to be canvas. I doubt it will be very visible once it goes into the plane so it doesn't matter that much to me.   
who cares fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Jan 14, 2012 |
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Jan 14, 2012 18:14
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Nebakenezzer posted:How do people clean their airbrushes? I've been thinking of getting a professional cleaning kit, but I'm not sure if it's worth the money. This is what I do to clean my airbrush after using Vallejo acrylic paints. The process will vary depending on what brand and type of paint you use. After painting, I run some windex with ammonia through the airbrush and spray until I can no longer see the paint coming through. Then I spray a liberal amount of water through it and backflush it a bit. To backflush I hold paper towel directly against the tip and spray into it. Then I clean the area where the paint cup attaches since paint builds up there. I just use a Q-tip for that. I then take out the needle and wipe it on some wet paper towel to remove any paint. If I am just changing colors I will put the needle back in and continue painting, but if I am done I will take the tip assembly off and clean the inside of the body with a Q-tip and maybe clean the inside of the needle holder thing in the tip with a moistened toothpick.
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Jan 30, 2012 23:51
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PicnicBasket posted:I use water-based acrylics. To clean, I run a full jar (1oz) of warm water through, scrub the insides with a nylon brush, run a jar of windex through, then dry. I've read that windex corrodes brass so it might be a good idea to run some water through afterwards.
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Jan 31, 2012 05:46
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 Couple more angles: http://imgur.com/a/1LK6W Finished my second model last night. It is a 1:1000 Polar Lights original series Enterprise. I will never buy a snap-together kit ever again. I spent SO MUCH time filling and sanding and filling and sanding. Sure, it was cheap and went together pretty easy, but it was hard to make it look good. This was my first experience with extensive decaling and I completely ruined the big USS Enterprise NCC-1701 decal on the top of the saucer. I ended up getting a replacement made by Tango Papa Decals. It all worked out in the end but it was a very frustrating moment when I wrecked the decal and a good lesson in resisting the urge to drink too much while working on models. Overall I am glad to have it finished. In many ways it was a kit that I was able to practice some new techniques on without feeling too horrible about messing stuff up. I am working on a Tamiya F4U-1D Corsair right now and am about 80% done.
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Feb 15, 2012 22:02
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I only use water or Vallejo's own thinner to thin Vallejo acrylics. I've read on various forums that alcohol makes them gum up, some colors more than others. What was the unusual and exotic clog?
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Feb 29, 2012 04:29
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I finished my Corsair a few days ago. Album: http://imgur.com/a/zdsft This was my third model and my first airplane. I loved building it and plan on doing more WWII planes in the future.
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Mar 11, 2012 01:37
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Thanks for the nice comments, everyone.Morgenthau posted:Might I enquire what kit is this from? It is the Tamiya F4U-1D kit. My first kit was a repop of a 70s Revell kit and my second model was a poorly-fitting snap-together deal, so the Tamiya kit was a dream to put together. SkunkDuster posted:I'm far from an expert on insignia, but I assume the arrow on the tail designates which carrier that planes is based on. Is that correct? Does the arrow on the wing indicate the same thing? I don't recall ever seeing insignia on the wings and it is kind of curious. Yeah, as far as I understand it they are squadron markings. The plane that I did was part of VF-84 which was based on the USS Bunker Hill. I have a book full of Corsair pictures and some squadrons only have markings on the tail and some have them on both the wing and tail and sometimes the prop.
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Mar 11, 2012 20:37
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Blistex posted:How do you get weathering in space? Dust particle collisions? From being shot at by the Cylons. Duh!
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Mar 17, 2012 01:06
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The Viper is looking awesome, big_g. Beautiful weathering job. I am going to start mine soon and have been debating whether or not to use decals for the stripes. After seeing yours I think I will paint them. Nebakenezzer, I have only used pastel dust once so I am by no means an expert, but I used them last in my weathering process after dull coating the entire model and sealed them with a fine mist of matte varnish. I had to do several rounds of dust/varnish to get some colors to show up well. From what I've read and experienced myself, anything more than a mist coat (and sometimes even that) will make the pastel dust disappear. Maybe next time you could cut down on the amount of clear coat and see if that helps.
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Apr 8, 2012 22:26
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KiddieGrinder, I think you should get paint before you start. I personally like to build and paint in subassemblies if it looks like an area will be too hard to paint after gluing everything together. It might be frustrating to get your model built up only to realize that you should have painted something along the way. Also, if that kit interests you then go for it. You're more likely to have fun an stick with it if you don't have to slog through a crappy kit. And yes, modeling is an expensive hobby. Along with the costs of the kits themselves, there are always more paint colors to buy, consumables to replace, and specialized tools to try.
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Apr 17, 2012 18:18
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I recognize that type of fitting from working in a lab. It goes directly into a hose like this: http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-50-1011-compressor/dp/B00396Z4XU There is no adapter; you just stick it on. You will, however, need some sort of fitting to attach your compressor to the hose. http://www.paintandpowderstore.com/proddetail.php?prod=PPS-0168 This one, for example, has fittings on both ends. You could look for one that will fit your compressor and then just remove the one on the other end.
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Apr 19, 2012 20:05
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Nebakenezzer posted:What's your kit backlog, thread? I'm currently working on an AMT Romulan Bird of Prey and a Moebius Viper Mk. II. In my backlog I have a Tamiya A6M5 Zero, an AMT Man in Space kit (set of 1/200 Mercury-Redstone, Mercury-Atlas, Gemini-Titan, Apollo-Saturn 1B and Apollo-Saturn V), and an Atomic City 1/12 Mercury capsule. The Mercury kit was the reason I wanted to get into modeling in the first place so I am saving it for some point in the future when I feel like I am good enough to build it how I want it. Like any hobby modeling can become more about buying than actually doing so I try to limit the amount of kit shopping I do. However I do think it is a good thing to have a couple kits on hand in case I get hung up and need to change gears.
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Apr 22, 2012 06:23
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