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Not enough non-gigantic boats in this thread. Here's a truly crap model, a Revell of Germany HMS Prince of Wales. I don't know when it was made, but it pre-dates things like putting numbers on parts. Or more than one diagram for assembly. I bought this thing used, and as it turned out, partly assembled already. I'm blaming the previous owner for the bridge structure being slightly misaligned. I broke off one of the secondary gun barrels myself, the replacement is in red. Here it is assembled and ready to prime. That's a Panzerschiffe 1:2400 BC Lexington behind it.   And this, this is the instruction sheet, the plan and elevation in the painting guide were more useful. 
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Feb 15, 2016 06:41
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The Locator posted:Those gun barrels are hilariously fat. The PoW is in 1:1200. The Lexington behind it is in 1:2400. I also have the re-issue of the PoW kit, it's much more modern but the casting quality still isn't that impressive. What's annoying me about scale ships is that there seem to be more pre-dreadnought kits than actual dreadnoughts. Where's that database of scale models ?
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Feb 16, 2016 16:27
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Triggerhappypilot posted:
What's the scale on that ? It looks too small to be 1/700 or 1/600 ?
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Mar 27, 2016 16:51
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Triggerhappypilot posted:it's the Tamiya 1/700 Rodney. It may look small but it's also at an angle- it's a hair short of 1 foot long. Funny enough- despite being armed with only 11 inch guns, and being about 2kt lighter than the Rodney, the Gneisenau is actually 20 meters longer because of the clipper bow. And I even checked the scale model database hoping I'd missed a 1/1200 kit. I need to post up pics of my WIP Hunt the Bismarck project.
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Mar 28, 2016 21:31
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A question: I'm following along with a tutorial on doing wave effects on ship bases for 1/2400 or 1/3000 scale ships. The author is recommending that you smear a bunch of Pollyfilla on the base around the model and then form it with a putty knife into waves and wakes. I'm in the US, and Amazon really wants me to order it from sellers in the UK. What's a good substitute for Pollyfilla available in the US, or to put it another way: what can I smear on a base that will be easy to shape but set well enough to be primed and painted ? http://yarkshiregamer.blogspot.com/2015/11/12400-ww1-wtj-naval-from-box-to-table.html A proposal: What I'm planning on doing is the Battle of Heligoland Bight in 1/2400. I had been thinking of a crapship challenge, and ship models don't get much crappier than Panzerschiffe's 1/2400s. The challenge there is not to make an individual model look good, but to make a group look good. Then it hit me, not enough people are working on dioramas. So I figured I'd pick a reasonable-sized battle, get all the participants in 1/2400 and then base them more in groups with fog and shell splashes and whatnot instead of the more traditional one ship per base style. I'm thinking bases 1.5" to 2" square, with waves, wakes, shell splashes, smoke, and multiple ships per base. Cruisers looming out of fog banks, destroyers charging around in a hail of gunfire, battlecruisers that were really lucky not be victims of friendly torpedoes. All the stuff that made naval warfare in 1914 so much fun. Who wants to join me ? A crapship/craporama challenge in 1/2400; build a diorama or display piece of a whole battle. The hunt for the Bismarck, the Japanese carriers at Pearl Harbor or Midway, one of the night battles around Guadalcanal, a convoy battle. Do a whole chunk of history instead of just a single piece at a time. I'd say 1/2400 Panzerschiffe at best for the models; any manufacturer in a smaller scale like 1/3000 or 1/4800. There's a ton of good 1/4800 on Shapeways; all the Japanese cruisers at Savo Island can be had as a set for under $20. https://www.shapeways.com/product/QGKMTCEWL/48jn04-savo-island-ijn-cruisers?li=shop-results&optionId=5701315
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Apr 15, 2016 05:38
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Crapship diorama update ! I now have coming to me: 3 British battlecruisers, 7 light cruisers and 16 destroyers to make up 1st Battlecruiser Squadron, 1st Light Cruiser Squadron, and 3rd Destroyer Squadron. That's a huge chunk of the Brits at the Battle of Heligoland Bight. I had to get the destroyers from wtj.com because Panzerschiffe doesn't make an L-class destroyer and 4-funnel DDs can't be subbed for 3-funnel boats. I also have some drywall filler coming to use for wave effects on the bases. God help me, this is going to happen ! Sample ship, at what should be about actual size for 1/2400: 
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Apr 24, 2016 19:30
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The Locator posted:Actual size on what size monitor and resolution? 24", 1920-1200 to be pedantic. I'm not expecting much from the model - hell, the gun turrets are molded into the deck for crissake. I am hoping to bring the thing alive with some smoke, some waves, some shell splashes… I'm going for this effect, with more splashes:  Pretty much from here: http://yarkshiregamer.blogspot.co.uk/2015/11/12400-ww1-wtj-naval-from-box-to-table.html
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Apr 25, 2016 00:52
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The Locator posted:You might have missed my point. I wasn't trying to be pedantic But I was trying to be flip, so that's all on me. Here's a 1/4800 Dunquerque from Tiny Thingamajigs under heavy fire. Heavy fire will be portrayed today by a shell splash made with a pinch of cotton ball and some superglue. This splash is about in scale for 1/4800 and 14-18" shell, so the 4- and 6-inch splashes around the British units would have to be quite a bit smaller.  That, with a base about twice that size, with 2-4 one inch destroyers streaming black smoke (more cotton ball material) and weaving through shell splashes. Next test: cotton ball fog. I really want to depict something scary (the BCs) looming out of fog. The trick will be working in smokestack as well as gun smoke.
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Apr 25, 2016 05:07
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I was going to post a picture or two because I got the drywall filler and the Panzerschiffe ships for my crapships diorama and did a test base about 2" by 2" but… gently caress me that guy i too good to follow.
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Apr 29, 2016 05:33
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Crapship and crapship diorama update. Work has been kicking my rear end lately, so there's been very little energy for modeling, but there's something to show: Revell 1/1200 USS Missouri with their Yamato behind her and some Panzerschiffe 1/2400s in front. The smaller scale stuff is a battlecruiser and a light cruiser. You can really see how ship sizes grew from pre-WW1 to late WW2, the Missouri is only twice the scale but looks like a mother nursing her kits with a 1/2400 scale capital ship alongside. The 1/2400s are sitting on a test of a textured ocean base.  A more overhead shot of the two 1/1200 battlewagons with a few extra light cruisers (4500-6500 tons). You can really see the difference between the 45,000 ton Iowa class and the 70,000 ton Yamato. Those clean lines on the American ship are why the Iowas could make 5 or 6 knots more than the Yamatos. That chunk-style citadel really slows a ship down. The Revell kits are  you get a kit that looks like what it's supposed to be. The light anti-aircraft guns (40mm and smaller) are just molded on, but on the Panzerschiffe models even the main batteries are molded in. I figure the cheap models will look really good with molded bases, funnel and gun smoke, and a bunch of shell splashes.
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May 6, 2016 03:01
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Smoke posted:This one works even if you don't have carpet. Somehow a clean laminate floor still manages to make small parts disappear, and they have the weirdest of trajectories sometimes. They even manage to end up in closed boxes. I built around a missing piece on an RG Gundam, finished the build and took it into work to show off a couple of months ago. This afternoon I found the drat thing just chilling in an open space under my coffee table.
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Apr 9, 2020 07:55
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Arquinsiel posted:That looks great dude. Well done. Concur. That;'s a striking pattern well-applied.
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May 18, 2020 06:38
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Gran Turismo anyone? Tight ! I first encountered decals at age 8, with no model-making mentor handy. Somehow, I got them on the model in a sufficiently accurate alignment that you could tell how it was supposed to be. Now I'm spinning up an airbrush setup and making hissing noises whenever I consider that I'm going to have to deal with decals again.
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Jun 1, 2020 03:04
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If the forums go down in flames, we'll never see the Scharnhorst or the Bluenose finished :-(
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Jun 25, 2020 09:07
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I keep a stash of sprues. Unused parts go in the bit box. And I try and just keep the instructions from finished kits. That saves a ton of space.
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Jul 15, 2020 17:39
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Arquinsiel posted:Depends what VF-1 you are looking at Here's a VF-25 kit in 1/100 that would be good masking practice for putting down trim and details with an airbrush before moving on to bigger jets. At 1/100 only about 4" long and should go for about $20 in the US. https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10140972 I did this kit, no paint, just decals a couple of years ago as a birthday present. It was laaaaaate. I've got a VF-29 in the same scale, I'm planning to invert the stickers and use the framing bits as my masking lines  All love to the VF-1 for starting it all, but drat the VF-25 looks good.
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Jul 25, 2020 22:17
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. The VF-1D and VT-1 have an extra seat so they're a smidge longer. Compared to basically anything other than the aforementioned planes they're big as heck though.
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PacoPepe posted:Ive been thinking about getting into this for some time, i mainly like ww2 planes, but im a complete noob in general. How good/bad of an idea is it to get one of those cheap airbrush combos from amazon? Maybe a cheap kit to ruin/get some practice on? Seconding that. You probably want a Badger P105 as a rock-solid double-action airbrush, a Master Airbrush Model TC-40T compressor with tank, and a "Master Airbrush Brand Airbrush Fitting Conversion Adapter for Badger" quick-release adapter. That'll go about $250 plus paints, and you'll want a good supply of alligator clips with long handles for holding parts while spraying and drying. A spray hood with lights and fan is another $150 that you can kinda skimp on in a well-ventilated area with a fan pointing at a window; but do not skimp on a mask ! You want a 3M 6000 series half-mask and a set of 6006 organic solvent-rated filters. Eye protection is also mandatory, I'll sub my reading glasses in when painting, but I use proper safety glasses with closed sides for primer and finish. For paint, I'm going with acrylics so I started with a set of US Art Supply Airbrush Colors. That got me 24 colors across the spectrum as a starter, and then I added a couple of Tamiya Model Air sets; a Soviet air force set for the IL-2 I'm sanding down right now, and their bigger Luftwaffe set for miscellaneous greys and tans, plus loose Tamiya paints from various vendors. ScaleHobbyist.com has a good supply, and has been restocking sold out items. The US Art Supply paints definitely require two coats, the Tamiya paints cover much better. I'd say skip the one and go with Tamiya all the way, even if you have to pick out primary colors individually. Then you want primer and a clear coat; medium grey is a good general purpose primer color, but black and white have their place - do not attempt a white subject over grey or black primer, just don't. Again, do not skimp on the mask. Acrylics aren't toxic but you still don't want them in your lungs. If you're doing enamels or lacquers, go large on the vent hood. After that, check out some youtube videos, and do some practice drills on cardboard before inflicting your noobitude on a model.
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Jul 26, 2020 19:47
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zokie posted:Also a cheap ultrasonic cleaner was totally worth it. Go on...
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Jul 27, 2020 09:04
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Symetrique posted:That's honestly overkill but hey if it works for you it works. Id be a little worried about stripping out any lubricants in the body of the airbrush with the constant ultrasonic cleaning though. That reminds me, how often and where should I be oiling the needle on my P105 ?
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Jul 28, 2020 19:39
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Symetrique posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulWFoG5Inmw Thank you. And boy, talk about being in it for the inhalants. Dude loves his solvents.
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Jul 28, 2020 23:42
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I got the one with the LED lights and I'm really glad I did. That corner of the apartment is poorly lit after dark, and even with the sun out you can always use more lught.
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Jul 29, 2020 03:36
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Bucnasti posted:I got the one with the led light strip and it’s never worked right. I just got a pair of proper desk lamps on both sides now. There's a good chance they just never seated well enough to make electrical contact. There's also a chance - probably better - that you got burned and the return window closed years ago.
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Jul 29, 2020 07:13
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My local Chinese place delivers in plastic trays with clear plastic lids, perfect for sub-assemblies. Long-tailed alligator clips. You'll use these to hold parts while spraying/painting. Start hoarding styrofoam to poke them into. I've seen people clip whole gunpla kits sorted by color. I work by assembly, to make it easier to find the next piece and just run water and then cleaner through between colors. My way also starts looking like a robot faster. Toothpicks are super useful. Maybe some black or brown acrylic ink for panel lining. You might want a paint rack. I got a cheap, laser-cut one sized for Vallejo paints for cheap. It takes a little tape to stay together, but holds paint a treat. Airbrush maintenance, feel free to correct me on this: "Needle juice" or oil. In my experience, add this when you start hearing bubbling from around the trigger. A thin coat from the point to half or 2/3 of the way back will suffice. Beeswax. Use this on the metal to metal contact areas in the nozzle and needle protector. I only just got some, but plan on re-applying it whenever I take those apart for cleaning, or when I start getting bubbling between the nozzle and body of the airbrush.
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Aug 3, 2020 20:41
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Blue Footed Booby posted:Nail polish rack. You can find them cheaper than anything built for the hobby market. Let this be a lesson to the rest of you.
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Aug 4, 2020 04:38
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Symetrique posted:I'd recommend enamel based washes or oils for panel lining for a beginner. Much more forgiving than acrylics. On the one hand I have acrylic inks an sacrificial brushes. On the other hand I'm a good listener. Is it it worth dealing with enamels and another thinner ?
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Aug 4, 2020 07:49
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Cthulu Carl posted:Bandai has a bunch of small models for the remake of Space Battleship Yamato that can be got for usually less than $15. The "mecha collection" models are very good for the price, easy to assemble and with very sharp detail. I expect they'll take airbrushing very well when I get around to them. Here's a good list of what's available: https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/search?typ1_c=109&cat=&state=&sortid=0&searchkey=mecha+collection&Make=Bandai&spage=1&sold=1
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Sep 2, 2020 16:01
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Vorenus posted:I need to file bankruptcy just thinking about that . Right ?
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Sep 4, 2020 10:58
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I was hoping for kits on the same order as the Gundam kits, but that'll do for paintable battlemechs.
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Sep 4, 2020 23:17
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Mech9 is a good resource for color guides, http://www.mech9.com/2016/07/paint-color-equivalents.html And here's a forum post someone did of their build, https://ww2aircraft.net/forum/threads/bandai-1-20-flaptter-from-castle-in-the-sky.42492/ Neddy Seagoon posted:There is, in the same kit line! Bad news: Shipping is gonna be expensive Worse news: you'll be able to find enough stuff you want to make the $100 FedEx charge seem reasonable.
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Sep 12, 2020 19:37
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ShallNoiseUpon posted:I lost a gunpla part that was the exact same color as my carpet and gave up on ever finding it. Months later, after having vacuumed on multiple occasions, I stepped on it. Directly in my walking path. I have no idea how I missed it for months. Carpet monster giveth and carpet monster taketh away. Mostly taketh.
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Oct 1, 2020 07:32
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Scut posted:Considering how many of these you have, I would suggest trying something new on each successive one you paint. Number them and maybe keep notes to help remember what worked and what was a dead end. He's well on his way to one hell of a wargaming project.
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Oct 10, 2020 17:51
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Nerobro posted:Sorta? Mechatop is a game I might play at some point. But really, I think it would be cool to have a tachikoma-like squadron of these on a diorama on the wall. I'm not gonna argue with the diorama !
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Oct 11, 2020 04:45
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Question: Is there a recommended source for custom decals ? I've got a project in mind that over time could use a whole sheet. Specifically, I just got the calendar reminder for a Facebook challenge "plan a nice surprise for someone in 4 months". This is for my publisher, who does space combat tabletop games, and is a Seahawks fan. So I'm going to do a ship from the Yamato series in Seahawks colors and logos, with "SBB-03 Russel Wilson" on the base. Naturally that won't be the last football-themed space battleship I do, hence the desire for a full sheet of decals.
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Oct 19, 2020 00:23
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FiskTireBoy posted:Fuckin carpet monster strikes again. I was cutting a steering column off a sprue and it launched into the stratosphere. Now my drunk rear end is going to be crawling on all fours with a flashlight like Sherlock Holmes all night. Don't lose hope ! Carpet monster gave me back a piece yesterday... a full week later, six feet away, and on the other side of two medium-sized objects from where I had been working. Truly, carpet monster works in mysterious ways.
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Nov 15, 2020 03:15
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Communist Walrus posted:Asked this in a separate thread but figured it might get some responses here: Anyone have positive or negative experiences with these printable transfer/decal sheets? Or have another brand you'd recommend? I'll get back to you, I bought some after seeing your earlier post, but I won't be near a laser printer for a week.
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Nov 26, 2020 18:54
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Soul Dentist posted:Question (and sanity check) about PPE -- I got a respirator and P100 filters, but do I need a gas cartridge as well? I figured ventilation would take care of stuff like off-gassing from resin, or paint fumes, but some stuff I'm reading is VERY STERN about organic vapors as well. Is this over the top? Just ask yourself, what quantity of organic solvents am I okay with being in my lungs ? If the answer isn't "exactly zero", then pick a color.
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Dec 15, 2020 21:55
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Thread mood: wooden.
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Dec 19, 2020 01:39
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Nice firetruck ! Okay, I have a masking question. I've just had some of the yellow Tamiya masking tape pick up significant areas of paint. Why is the paint coming off with the tape ? Not enough primer ? Put down another layer of paint ? Do a layer of matte coat before masking ?
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Jan 25, 2021 05:37
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Okay thanks, that gives me a fix. I was starting to worry about an infinite spiral of taping, spraying, and re-taping.
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Jan 25, 2021 06:22
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No, seriously, do you have a respirator rated for organic solvents ? A good 3M half-face mask plus filters goes for $40-45 bucks. Trying to cough a whiff of toluene out of your lungs, priceless.
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Jan 30, 2021 04:24
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