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I'm running into an issue doing some painting on my 1:2500 Enterprise D. The Taiyama spray primer went on great, but I'm trying to paint the phaser rings / surfaces with Taiyama acrylic. I put down painters tape and scored the edge and made a stencil of sorts on the surface and painted the exposed parts. I ended up with some paint going under and some other abnormalities. Should I be doing this in dryer layers / Is there a better way to do this? Edit: I am a complete novice when it comes to painting. I've built a bunch of models, never gotten really good at painting them. If there is a series or book I should look at, I will go buy now!  
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Apr 22, 2016 01:07
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 01:51 |
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Greyhawk posted:
Arquinsiel posted:Spray primer, do the tape thing, spray primer again, then do the exposed bits the way you want. I think this is what I am going to do a mix of this and what Greyhawk said. Dr. Phildo posted:Also what kind of tape are you using? If it's painters tape like the blue 3m stuff, it doesn't do the best at sharp lines. I'd use a tamiya tape to get nice and close, the the blue stuff to mask the rest. It was basic rear end painters tape, and I think the issue was where multiple layers of tape come together. Thank you all for the replies. Think I am going to re-primer the areas and try free hand with a lot less paint on the brush.
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Apr 22, 2016 15:04
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I'm about to pull the trigger on an Airbrush and compressor. Looking online I came down this airbrush: Badger 105 Patriot http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Br...d=ATVPDKIKX0DER I chose it on price / options for a beginners brush and it seems like a good fit. I'm having some issues figuring out the compressor part. I don't mind finding adapters and stuff, I'm just not sure on what the "good enough / not lovely" choice would be. The ones I am looking at are: Passche http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CJPWYM/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1JLS1XU3CI9F8 Badger http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UH7CAY/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER Help me not suck at buying this stuff. 
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May 10, 2016 20:45
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Jonny Nox posted:I have the Patriot 105 and I hate it so much I stopped trying to airbrush stuff. Paint just turns to gum in the cup almost instantly. It makes me angry just thinking about it. What would you recommend as a good beginner brush?
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May 10, 2016 20:58
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Swagger Dagger posted:I bought this and it's great, but it's not really in the same price bracket. Maybe if you can find it on sale. Edit: I went back to the patriot. Just need a compressor that won't kill me and isn't too loud. ptier fucked around with this message at 22:03 on May 10, 2016 |
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May 10, 2016 21:27
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Troll Bridgington posted:Fwiw I love my patriot 105. I have no problem running tamiya paint/thinner through it and it cleans very nicely. This is what I would be using it for. drat you all! 
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May 10, 2016 22:01
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Rotten Cookies posted:I can't imagine paint gumming up in an airbrush cup is a function of the airbrush? I'm gonna try the 105 out first. Right now I'm just trying to narrow down the compressor to something that isn't crap.
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May 10, 2016 22:09
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Star Trek Post! I did a Galactica (new) a couple of years back and I really enjoyed it. Got a little airbrush kit and desktop compressor because of that. I wanted to get back in and went with the Round 2 redo's of some ships in 1:2500 just to play around. Klingons! *TWANG* https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kbG3N51MEjM  The Reliant got a little weird. I know these are old molds they are re-using, AND that these are small, AND the reliant is not the main model in this kit, but man, they could have chosen a different point to do an injection point (I think that's the right word for it):   I had to shave a bunch of it out to make the seam that it should have had. The pics above are pre-shaving. But they all came together alright. However, you can see the weird internal copywrite poo poo that is printed on the inside of the saucer. Hope the paint covers that. Next time I'm gonna sand that crap out.  I'll need to do a little putty work to fill some stuff in from places where I goofed getting the sprue off (first cut of course):  Next to priming! ptier fucked around with this message at 21:45 on Jul 5, 2019 |
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Jul 5, 2019 21:42
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Poisonlizard posted:These look like fun, I may need to pick up a set. I just started the Ban Dai Star Destroyer in similar scale and was thinking about doing more in smaller scale. I need to check out that star destroyer. Nicely detailed and I can see why the galactica would feel let down after that one. I did the straight Mobius kit. No add-ons. It was my first in a long while so it was a re-learning experience. With respect to paint, I'll take some pictures tonight and write down what I used, I don't remember them off-hand. I did more of a metallic iron job which I like, just wish I had lightened it up before putting it on over german gray. I also did some scratching and buffing to make it look like the old girl she is. I'll get some pictures up tonight when I get home. If I had to do it again, I would go with the etch kit for the gun emplacements and raised lettering. But to each their own.
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Jul 8, 2019 15:13
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Poisonlizard posted:These look like fun, I may need to pick up a set. I just started the Ban Dai Star Destroyer in similar scale and was thinking about doing more in smaller scale. Finally got it all together.  The layers are thus (all Tamiya colors because they are the most high quality I can get at my hobby shops): Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer XF-63 German Grey XF-56 Metallic Grey + XF-63 German Grey in equal parts I believe. Then I buffed a little with varying grits of sanding sticks to achieve the scuffed looked. Got a little too aggressive on the edges.    Then I tried to do a little something with the engine wash. The Galactica engine burn was bright blue with lots white mixed in so I attempted to do a layer of blue (straight XF-8 Flat Blue with some XF-2 Flat White or X-2 White mixed in and then on top just a little hit of white in the center to give it a burst look. I'm not super happy with it, but its much better to my eyes than just a flat color.  If I did it again, I'd definitely paint the clear stuff before hand and really plan out the layers, lighten up all the colors, and do the etch kits, which I might end up doing when my Star Trek ones are done... and the Pegasus... and some vipers. I don't have a problem, you have a problem! Critiques welcome, looking to get gud.
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Jul 9, 2019 01:53
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Poisonlizard posted:That looks really good, much better than I was expecting on mine, and similar colors to what I'm shooting for. I really dig the blue you did there. I love that detail, is that styrene sheet cut to make the aztecing? Asking for a friend.
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Jul 9, 2019 19:00
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BOGO LOAD posted:drat, missed out on the AT-AT. Though the bandai TIE Fighter is on sale for the next 5 hours and 45 minutes. Dang it. Now I have a tie fighter on the way. Oh whelp.
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Jul 16, 2019 21:01
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So, talk to me about Primers? I have only used the rattle-can Tamiya primer in the past for my Galactica and that worked out fine. I have an air brush and wanted to start using it for all the painting. So I got myself some Tamiya primer ( Liquid Surface Primer G ):  And thinned it with the Lacquer Thinner Tamiya recommended:  I did it about 1:1 to 1:2 (thinner to primer) to get a version that would go through my airbrush ( Badger 105 Patriot ) and I got some strange results, or at least what I would say as strange. I am not sure what is happening.   Couple of issues: 1. It looks like the primer is drying before it hits the object, I can clean that out, or brush it I guess. 2. Cleaning my airbrush is insane! I'm using the normal airbrush cleaner and the lacquer just clumps and clogs and then I'm sitting there for an hour slowly taking the whole thing apart and brushing it out. Am I thinning it too much? Spraying too hard? Do I need to be doing it anyways? What should I be doing to work with the primer lacquer and be able to clean it without gunking the hell out of my airbrush?
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May 25, 2020 19:45
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Symetrique posted:Thin it more, spray around 20 psi. Sparq posted:No idea about tamiya primers apart from rattlecans being excellent. It seems your paint is partially drying on the fly, so I'd thin it more. Also I like that you're doing a Vor'cha cruiser. Been doing it at 20 psi. I'll give it a shot to thin it more. I was definitely using cleaner meant for acrylics and it had water in it... So I will get new cleaner for primer or just use thinner. Molentik posted:I gave up on airbrushing primers after I discovered the rattlecans from Mr.Surfacer. Charliegrs posted:This. I like the Tamiya rattle can primers and I always sand then down extra smooth afterwards. This may not be a bad way to go. I prime so rarely it may just be worth it to use the rattle cans and not have to worry about cleaning it so drat thoroughly to then start using my Tamiya acrylics. Thank you all for the responses!
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May 25, 2020 20:51
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Raskolnikov38 posted:just do what I did for the romulan warbird I’m going to build. find between 5-10 good stills of it, use the color picker tool to make sample blotches, then average the color together, and then use the imodelkit app to match a paint mix to the average This kinda what I did for my Vor’cha class. But more “does this look right” than science. Speaking of, I over-sprayed a little / let the tape peel away when I was hitting the nacelles. I used tamiya acrylic to paint this. Is there a substance I can use to get the acrylic off but not melt my plastic into a pile of Klingon dishonor? Where I went d’oh.  Action shot 
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Nov 28, 2020 17:43
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Midjack posted:Isopropyl alcohol will clean tamiya acrylic right up. Use a q-tip so you don’t go overboard. Thank you! I will play with this tonight! grassy gnoll posted:Seconding the Q-tip and IPA. You can also sharpen a toothpick to a needle point and scrape out anything still stuck in the deepest recesses if you can't completely clear it with the swab and it shouldn't score your plastic. I think you've got just about the perfect shade of seafoam-y green. Yea, it worked out well, had to play with the ratio but its ( 1 drop of X-5 Green : 6 drops to X-2 White ) : 4-7 drops of X-20A Thinner depending on humidity I think. Been a while since I painted the base coat. Vorenus posted:I like that model, looks good aside from where the tape slipped. I used tape to help with painting a BSG Viper and your results are much better than mine. I'd really love to do some Star Trek models, but those mainly seem to be from Polar Lights and the Discovery model I got from them did not impress me at all. The Vor'cha and all the old Next Gen / DS9 stuff are the old AMT/Ertl molds that round2 got when they reformed (someone please check my history). They are generally OK, I didn't need to use much putty on this one at all. However, from my experience, stay AWAY from the Enterprise-B. That fucker I ended up dumping when I realized it would be more putty than plastic by the end. On the taping, I did something I am not sure I will do again, which was when I assembled it, I taped the red-clear pieces, then assembled the nacelles around it, and after painting, using an x-acto, cursing, and time peeled it away. If I do it again, I need to ensure that the sticky side of the tape is nullified in some way or the same hell will occur. Either that or fold the tape so it isn't sticky on the parts that go under the model, that sideways force required to pop it out is not fun. Raskolnikov38 posted:X'ing IPA That is nuts, but also makes sense, the Romulan warbirds color always seemed almost slightly out of phase, or "other worldly" while the Kilngons looked like the best lead ship paint 1950's money could buy. Definitely made an impression that they were alien. That also sucks trying to paint match. Raskolnikov38 posted:star trek kits imo are all about lighting and aftermarket parts I would love to do the external kind of work on the D, or Battle Star Galactica. Might gear up for something like that with some stuff that is smaller in scale, like the Oberth class or Miranda class, something I can screw up and it would be OK.
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Nov 29, 2020 00:54
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Klingon Vor’cha update! I used the isopropyl alcohol wipe to get the paint off the engine. Looks really nice: Original:  Fixed:  I used toothpicks that I would carve into the right shape tool I needed and dipped them in the isopropyl. Made the paint lift and then the pigment would soak up into the toothpick. Highly recommend. If you have other ways of doing it I would love to hear and see if there is a better / easier way.  A used one:  Then I got to thinking about how I had been taping previously with just 18mm tape and cutting / scoring and crap. So I upped my tape game and ordered some 1, 2, 3 and 6mm tamiya tapes and went to town. Having small tapes with crisp edges is so good compared to what the heck I had been doing before.  I was having issues cutting out the top outlines until I used a pencil to contrast the edges. Worked out really well.  I used a Tamiya clear red so it has that darkness from the green underneath. I goofed a little on the front of the ship and went a little hard and it got wet but I had trouble filling cracks with the air brush. I’ll need to do some touch up work which you can see from some overbleed when the wet pain seeped. What do you do with those little areas that won’t get hit as much ( little trenches etc)? Tape them and hit them first and then do the rest?  Those clean lines though.   
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Feb 6, 2021 17:40
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MrUnderbridge posted:For extra super delightful fun, try masking the movie Enterprise with multi-colored color shifting azteking! It has crossed my mind to attempt.
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Feb 8, 2021 19:54
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punishedkissinger posted:i bought some helping hands to help with soldering but the real pro move is to just get good at holding stuff in your fingers in crazy configurations. And scar yourself so you don’t feel the searing pain when the board heats up due to said soldering.
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Mar 17, 2021 15:07
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 01:51 |
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Thank you all for the bench lamps and magnifiers. I had needed something like that for a while and just hadn't gone down the rabbit hole. Taping is a bitch when you have shadows in the way. And I ended up just resting the left side of my face on one of those flat LED lamps so my right eye would see what the Lamp sees. But I also need to magnification. I'll give a trip report on the Lee Valley light when it arrives. On to another topic. My WIFE! is trying to find an inexpensive / not super complicated first foray into book nooks for her book shelf. She has done a number of Japanese / Chinese tiny rooms and such, but she wants to just dip her toe into this one. Are there any suppliers that would fit this bill that ships to the US?
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Jun 13, 2021 15:24
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