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Slung Blade posted:A bic lighter would probably work you can get some pretty cheap butane powered torches / gas soldering irons from your local hardware type store.
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Sep 24, 2009 07:38
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Anyone know anyone who makes aircraft in 1/100 or close to it?
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Nov 18, 2009 09:00
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Thanks - I'll look into Those. Yes it is an odd scale for aircraft but it is for my Flames of war 101st Airborne which are 15mm / 1/100. 1/144 is what FoW uses to represent your aircraft on the table, but they would be too small for having up close on some sort of display base.
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Nov 20, 2009 06:14
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Well gently caress me, so it does - that is a pain. The enamel thinner says the same "use only with Tamiya paints" thing. Would it still work with say the enamel based MIG washes or am I going to have to get the MIG thinner?
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Mar 16, 2010 07:58
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Well using high tech odor analysis (huffing it) the Tamiya enamel thinner gives of a mild turps smell so I guess it should work.
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Mar 16, 2010 09:27
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Has anyone had any experience with scratchbuilding something in a smaller scale using an larger kit as reference?
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Apr 11, 2010 12:16
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 I want to take the omnibus from this set (1:32) and scale it down for use with proper 28mm minatures (so 1:72). Unless someone knows of a kit in that scale, it is quite a difficult model to track down.
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Apr 12, 2010 07:34
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Thanks I was just roughly following these: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_scale_model_sizes http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Figure_scale#Scales I am probably going to cheat since I have access to a CAD package via work. Most likely sketch it up first and then transfer it onto styrene.
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Apr 12, 2010 10:42
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That or fill the gaps with a putty. Tamiya make a white putty for this purpose, it is sandable etc. Although I haven't used it myself so someone else might have to post that info.
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May 2, 2010 08:29
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Xenomrph posted:Jesus christ. This sounds like a loving nightmare. I mean, I take my model-building hobby pretty seriously, but not "poison myself to death" seriously. You will only need a mask if you are sanding*. Otherwise you can treat resin as you do say a plastic model kit. You should only need to clean up flash and mold lines, so no you don't need to sand the whole model. When dealing to the mold lines you can scrape along them with your hobby knife to remove them. Anything more stubborn probably will require sanding, you can try to gouge them down with a knife but sanding is far far easier. When sanding I have found it handy to sand / wash / sand - repeat. I don't keep it wet during the sanding process though. *Resin is not good to breathe in but it is chronic exposure to particulate matter which really will do you in - go read up on black lung.
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May 22, 2010 02:22
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Forums user big_g posted this over in the historicals thread:big_g posted:to which he replied when I asked how he achieved that effect: big_g posted:What I do for the chipping is paint on a patch of the next shade up from whatever the base colour is along an edge or high wear area so its fairly bright. Then I fill inside with black leaving a thin outline of the bright colour. I then put a thin line of dark grey along the edge of the tank inside the black. Also Battlefront have this article on winter weathering, but the masking techniques can be extrapolated over to other forms of wear and tear. No Pun Intended fucked around with this message at 09:55 on May 26, 2010 |
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May 26, 2010 09:26
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It is because painting little men (space or otherwise) and fighting them is the man-child equilvalent of dressing up your dollies and playing pretend. Edit: Nice work on the Antonov No Pun Intended fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Jul 2, 2010 |
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Jul 2, 2010 05:41
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I haven't used it, but a quick search indicated it is some sort of Matt Varnish. If you want to make proper use of it you'll probably need some Tamiya acrylic thinner (X20A).
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Jul 5, 2010 10:50
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Xenomrph posted:Crimson Skies owns. Agreed. Xenomrph posted:The "museum scale" Devastator. I'll have to take some pictures of it, it's pretty neat. Yeah, I'd love to see that. I am presuming the answer is "no" but is there anywhere to get one anymore (for a reasonable price)? Xenomrph posted:Grey, yellow, and navy blue, respectively. Isn't that the German livery from Crimson skies? Also Unkempt I love that Devastator, it was always my favorite CS plane.
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Aug 24, 2010 10:46
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Unkempt posted:Well, that's done. Can you spot the The Devastator has 2 props.  That is really nice work Unkempt. What did you use as reference when building that thing? No Pun Intended fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Aug 31, 2010 |
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Aug 30, 2010 21:59
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I can assure you that the wingnut wings kits are of amazing quality and well worth the money.
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Aug 30, 2011 01:49
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Does anyone know a good source of 1/32 WWI British/American infantry figures? I'm looking for some crew for a project I have in mind.
No Pun Intended fucked around with this message at 14:01 on Jan 3, 2012 |
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Jan 3, 2012 10:27
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lilljonas posted:I don't know anyone who make infantry figures in 1/32, how bad would it be to go with 1/35 instead? Yeah 1/35 would work just fine.
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Jan 4, 2012 04:24
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I managed to find a good range of 1:32 WW1 Figures and accessories here. Price and quality seem decent, and they even have a set of gasmasked heads (something that I was looking for). Sadly there was still a lack of 1:35 or 1:32 figures although i did find some very nice quality ones at the model cellar Now that I have these sourced I'm going to have to drag the kit out of the closet and start working on it.
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Jan 9, 2012 11:39
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I haven't worked with photoetch specifically (but will be in the future) but as with most thin metal, make sure you plan out your bends, you don't want to have keep working it otherwise there is a high chance it will snap.
No Pun Intended fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Jan 9, 2012 |
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Jan 9, 2012 23:29
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Nebakenezzer posted:Superglue, if you put it on wax paper, stays liquid for a long time, so you can apply just the right amount. No matter what you are doing this is a good thing to know! Thanks.
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Jan 10, 2012 06:21
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How do you usually deal with ejector pin marks? I have an airfix kit I'm working on and the backs of pieces are quite shocking when it comes to them. The worst thing is they are mostly on places which won't be obscured by construction.
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Jan 16, 2012 11:27
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Most of them are flat panels so detail is not a problem. I know there is the tamiya white putty for this purpose, does anyone else know of a better/preferred putty to use?
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Jan 16, 2012 23:53
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compressioncut posted:Gunze Mr. Surfacer 500 is good for that sort of thing if you can get your hands on it. By green stuff I presume you mean regular blue/yellow kneadanite? Or is this something else entirely?
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Jan 18, 2012 02:45
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I appreciate the input, I'll try and pick some up from the model store if (I can swing by)/get some from the Internet.
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Jan 19, 2012 03:01
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I actually started working on a project for once!  
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Feb 4, 2012 10:03
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You're right in that it is a bus, but it is a older model london bus that they used during WW1 as a troop transport. That is what I'm going eventually end up with.
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Feb 5, 2012 03:25
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If you could dig them out, I'd appreciate it, but of it's too much effort don't worry.
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Feb 6, 2012 03:07
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Thanks for that. It does show one in a mostly original state, the reference pictures I have show them all boarded up and painted green. I was lucky enough to ride around on Peter Jackons "replica" at a local Airshow, I have pics of that around (plus his amazing WW1 planes) if anyone is interested.  it's great to live vicariously through a rich film directors love of history.
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Feb 10, 2012 00:13
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Recently went to Japan and while I was there I decided to treat myself to a couple of Ma.k kits  Tonight I actually started to put together my Großer Hund, I only had a short gap so I all I managed to assemble was a foot.  I do actually have a question regarding the use of white putty for those in the know: 1. Is it always going to be a messy job no matter how careful I am? As you can see by the photo that there are streaks of residue all over the foot, am I being to fussy as painting will cover a multitude of sins 2. What is the best product to thin it with (that won't damage the surface of the kit) 3. Is Tamiya the best product on the market or should I go get myself some squadron putty? (Tamiya is the easiest to get locally) Sorry about the IPhone pics. No Pun Intended fucked around with this message at 11:54 on Apr 10, 2012 |
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Apr 10, 2012 11:52
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I'd also reccomend getting a tube of Tamiya or Squadron putty or a pot Mr.Surfacer (not sure on the number) sometimes it's a bit of a bitch to work with, but it's drat handy stuff.
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Nov 7, 2012 23:14
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I think the milliput would work well enough. You might be able to mix it with a solvent to make a more liquid filler too. Experiment!
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Nov 7, 2012 23:19
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Yep that's perfect.
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Nov 7, 2012 23:50
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What scale?
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Dec 3, 2012 00:04
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Nebakenezzer posted:As a gift to a Professor friend of mine, I made a tank with camouflage for bookshelves. I call it a Bibliotank. Now I want to paint a bunch of tanks in household camo and hide them everywhere. Great job!
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Jan 14, 2013 23:36
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Never stop posting Baronjutter. I love the graffiti on your rolling stock. Could you explain your process?
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Feb 22, 2013 22:40
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More Train goons should post in this thread. I Love model trains (even though I get to work with 1:1 train set during the week).
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Feb 27, 2013 06:29
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Anyone know of anyone who does kits of some of the more interesting tanks out there? I am thinking Tanks of the interbellum / early WWII. For example : T-35 or any of the Vickers tanks (Mediums Mk. I - III, Independent).
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Mar 3, 2013 10:25
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Arquinsiel posted:I also have that Narvik class kit I think. Revell IIRC? I've been tempted to do similar with a Pz38H35f too, since I started collecting WoT stuff in 15mil ages back. As a I scale modeller & someone who loves some of the odder tanks of this world I probably shouldn't play WoT; it gives me so many ideas.. That being said, I am kit bashing a M3 Stuart into a T18. World of Tanks  space pope posted:Two pack of Pz38H735f Tanks. I painted them gold because I used to play World of Tanks and the tank was initially only available if you bought it using in-game gold. It was a great way to grief players. According to a 100% accurate and legitimate historical documentary I watched, plating tanks with gold makes them extra powerful.
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Apr 23, 2013 09:25
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 06:03 |
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Baronjutter posted:I know an airbrush setup is expensive but you can get much smaller paints. I feel stupid going out and buying a $10 spray can to paint a single door green. The miniature painting thread is a good place to ask for airbrush advice. There are a lot of options out there! I am not sure what you mean by "all in one" but generally the set up includes a.) your airbrush and b.) the "air" supply. Your supply is either from a compressor (you can get bench top ones but they tend to be pricey) or bottled. Getting a co2 tank is popular as it a dry gas and you won't need put in a moisture trap etc as you would with a compressor. As far as I'm aware it is about the same initial cost as getting a compressor setup. It also has the benefit of being silent and unpowered, and dirt cheap to refill (they also last for ages).
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Jun 26, 2013 22:28
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