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localized
Mar 30, 2008


tunnel for cars posted:

I'm trying to build a double planked hull on this model of the HMS victory but the wood keeps fuckin snapping when I bend it and I can see why this hobby is basically for old faggots that are used to life being disappointing and lovely 24/7

Sorry that this reply is more than a month old, but I just found the thread...You probably have thrown it out or gotten help by now anyways, but you need to soak the planks before you put them on the bulkheads. You should get a book on model ship building or get an easier kit. Bluejacket kits are of high quality and they have a lot of kits that are great for beginners.

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localized
Mar 30, 2008


Has anyone tried photoetching brass? I have seen guides for it on other modeling sites but have never seen any homemade brass etchings or talked to anyone who has tried it.

localized
Mar 30, 2008


Gordon_The_Fish posted:

I'm looking at getting into model shipbuilding using wooden kits. A few others have posted about this, so I was wondering what sort of tools and other stuff I'd need to buy alongside a beginner's kit in order to get started. Any ideas?

You should get an "Everything you need" kit from Model Expo or an Ensign Skillbuilder kit from Blue Jacket . The kits from both manufacturers include paint, glue and tools so you don't need to buy anything else, and the instructions and plans from both companies are probably the best you can buy.

localized
Mar 30, 2008


Pagan posted:

I personally wish I'd gotten a "real" air compressor from a hardware store. You can always dial down the pressure and put a different hose on it. If you get one with a big enough tank, it'll just run for a little while and then you can spray with the pressure in the tank. It sounds like it would cost less, too, than what you're looking at.

My dad turns fishing lures out of wood on his lathe and he bought an airbrush set off of ebay for about $90. Its for airbrushing nails and tattoos I think, but it works fine for models and lures. He is a carpenter so he has a pile of airtools and just uses a little makita compressor for airbrushing.

localized
Mar 30, 2008


I love Christmas. I received a paint set that includes all 93 of the bottled tamiya paints, and a tamiya model of the 1977 Martini Racing Porsche 935. I am kind of disappointed with the kit in that it has no engine at all. At least it has lots of decals so it will look pretty when its done. I was thinking about doing a tank next, since I have all of these flat camouflage colors to work with. Any suggestions?

localized
Mar 30, 2008


Does anyone know what Tamiya Thinner is? I have heard that you can just use lacquer thinner, but I don't want to screw something up.

localized
Mar 30, 2008


Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Thinner is thinner, no matter who makes it. Larger companies like Tamiya like to put big warnings on the bottles that say things like "Caution: Only use with Tamiya paints!", as if adding a few drops to some Vallejo paint will cause it to burst into flames, horribly scarring you and making you slightly more of a social wallflower than the typical modeler already is. The thinner you're probably thinking of is acrylic thinner, as Tamiya paints are acrylics. They do make a lacquer thinner, but that stuff if harder to find in stores, and the only lacquer paints they make are in a rattle can I believe. And enamels aren't something that Tamiya does, so that's out.

Acrylics are thinned with water or alcohol. Name brands are typically a water/alcohol mixture with some surfactants to stop the paint drying to quickly and allow it to flow better. Water is obvious of course, and you can always pick up bottles of Isopropyl alcohol at the pharmacy.

Enamels are thinned with white/mineral spirits. Although you can buy generic bottles of the stuff, thinning enamels can be more finicky than other paints so it's best to buy a name-brand thinner specifically formulated for hobby enamels.

Lacquer is generally thinned with a Xylene or Toluene based solvent. Again, because of the difficulty with this paint, and the difficulty in getting Xylene/Toluene, it's best just to get a ready-made hobby lacquer thinner.

Oils are best thinned with Turpentine based solutions. You can obviously get Turpentine just about anywhere, but it's better to buy a less caustic and less smelly product like Turps or Turpenoid. These are Turpentine substitutes that are formulated for the artist community so you don't huff yourself to death while using them.

In the end though, don't worry about matching a certain brands thinners with their same paints, just make sure you match the right thinner to the right type of paint. Tamiya's acrylic thinner will work just as well with Polly-Scale and Vallejo paints as it will with Tamiya's own stuff. The nice thing about multiple thinner types is that you could lay down a coat of acrylic paint, and then do certain effects with an enamel paint, and the enamel thinner won't harm the acrylic paint in the least. BUT, big but here, be careful with the more caustic solvent based thinners as they can start to eat the plastic model itself if applied on the bare plastic.

Thanks.

localized
Mar 30, 2008


Powdered Toast Man posted:

With regard to mixing paints, I got a Badger Paint Mixer and never looked back. It's cheap, runs off two AA batteries, and mixes the gently caress out of any paint.

Quick Google search turned it up for $6.38 at Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Airbrush-Paint-Mixer/dp/B000BROV02

That looks like it would be really easy to replicate with a Dremel tool.

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localized
Mar 30, 2008


I bought this nice Tamiya Leopard kit, but I haven't gotten around to putting the finishing touches on my Martini 935 yet...

Plus I thought this thread needed a bump.

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