Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
First post in this thread after reading most of it over the last week or two. I'm transitioning from being a games workshop kid into being a scale modeller. I'm selling the majority of my horde off atm because I don't have time to play anymore and I can't be arsed painting the tiny men so I thought I'd give tanks a go instead. Next week I'm looking at getting the academy T34-85 Berlin 1945 kit as my first tank kit. Is this a wise idea.
My last actual scale build was a tamiya GT500 350Z kit which went swimingly right up until I hosed the decals that make up 75% of the paint job because I didn't know that decal softener was a thing and some of the curves the decals had to conform to where pretty tight. Is there a way of getting a new sheet of decals so I can do the kit justice cause it was my most used car in a pile of Gran Turismo Games?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
I went sear for the kit I hosed up last night. The cheapest I can get it from any source that doesn’t seem dodgy as gently caress is $83 Australian which is steep but close to what I paid for the kit originally. Next cheapest is like $120 and it goes upwards from there. The same livery on the cars either side of it can be had for half as much pretty much every single time without fail.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
Checked out the closest hobby shop on the way home today. It was almost completely shithouse with most of the kits being in the super expensive range and outside of zap a gap they didn't have any decal softener stuff or brush on poly cement. Theres one other kinda close but I'm not holding out hope for it being decent. The internet may be my only real solution for getting kits and everything else really.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
Checked out another model shop today. Heaps better than the last option for things like paints and other supplies but their range of kits was kinda small and mostly focused on meng kits which I know are slightly nutso in the amount of parts they include. At this stage kits will be via the net with other supplies bought on the way home from work in the afternoons.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
I didn’t have the cash to pick up the kits but they where all 1/35th scale tanks and others so I thought they might be the hard mode kits rather than the easy options. I’m aiming for an academy kit as my first attempt at a kit and I’ve already watched someone build it on YouTube which doesn’t look too bad. I did pick up some extra thin cement which I tested out on spare sprue which kicked the poo poo out of the other poo poo I’ve ever used previously

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
Scored a couple of decent kits of ebay to begin the modelling journey after spending a long time doing warhammer stuff. First is a Tamiya WRC Impreza which I'm looking forward to getting because it came with the detail up bits to go with it. The second is a Tamiya Maclaren MP4/5B kit which I know is ancient but I stupidly bid on it then won the auction. I'm waiting to see if it comes with proper tobacco decals cause I'll buy them if it doesn't have them. Should be here by the end of the week I hope.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
Stopped by the hobby shop to collect some paints on the way home from work today. Old guy who worked there suggested putting the cans of Tamiya spray into warm water before spraying to make it smoother to apply. Seemed like an odd idea and not one that I've ever heard of before. I might give it a try cause it's just crazy enough that it could work somehow.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010

Midjack posted:

Yes, it helps. Also fights the can freezing up if you put it back in the water between sprays.

That’s good to know seeing as we’re starting to come out of winter here but it struggles to get over 10 degrees outside during the day. I’ll give it a go when I get to painting which will hopefully be this weekend if the kit arrives today which it should

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
Nah Australia and 10 degrees as in the Celsius variety but still colder than the paint likes to work with

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
I’m building one of the model kits I got of eBay last week. While the finished result looks pretty good but the photo etched seatbelts are an absolute pain in the dick to get right but I’m getting the hang of it eventually

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
I realised today that I've posted in here a few times but haven't posted the finished results of any of my kits.
After a long hiatus I started things off with a Tamiya impreza kit:

I learnt a lot doing this kit including photoetched seatbelts and working with large decals. I did most of them perfectly but one of the big yellow ones ended up with a tear as I attempted to push the decal too quickly without heating it up.

Next came another tamiya this time a Mclaren MP4/5B:

Apart from assembling a couple of things like the wings too early and paint bleed between the orange and the white I'm happy with how this one turned out.

Because I'm a masochistic arse I bought myself one of these kits today:

The plan at this stage is to assemble if as a series of sub assemblies so that I can get them painted and decaled properly before I assemble them. The hobby shop that I've been going to is shutting down which I found out today. It's a bit of a pain though as they've stopped restocking items so I missed out on a can of the yellow tamiya spray and a few bottles of x18 which I'll need for this model. Looks like I'm swithcing to online shopping from here on in.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
I’m really liking this rb6 so far although the position of a lot of the pin marks is a pain cause they tend to be on the backs of wing pieces that will be super visible once assembled. The only main hold back I can see so far is that I’m just about out of semi gloss black which is an issue because I need shitloads of it to get it done and it’s the main color used outside of the body color.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010


Welcome to nearly 3 hours of work. I’m loving the result once it’s finished but the decals are a pain in the butt to get sat down due to the surface shape of the pieces. It’s taking both markfit and the gf’s hairdryer to get them sat correctly. Tomorrow night will either be the engine cover or the rear wing bits decaled as I can’t do the nose cone or cockpit till I have the correct yellow and semi gloss black

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
Went to an aladins cave of a model shop today. While most of their stuff is diecast cars they also have a massive selection of plastic kits some looking like they’d been on the shelf since they were released in the 70’s. Might have to go back when I’m done with my current kit so I can pick up something new.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
When I was painting warhammer stuff I’d generally mix a little dark blue or dark green into my black so that it still looked close enough but allowed me to shade and highlight appropriately

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
I’ve been too busy to finish of my rb6 kit as work has been kinda hectic over the last few weeks.
Looking forward I’m thinking of getting a platz, nunu m6 gt3 kit because as much as I’d like to do a normal car I kinda like the look of race cars and particularly GT3 cars cause they’re a little aggressive in styling.

Has anyone in this thread built a platz kit? I’d check scalemates but they appear to be down atm.

Other question is around 1999.jp and wether they’re a decent site to deal with? I can get the kit and the full detail kit for the same price as I can get just the kit in Australia which still has to come via Hong Kong.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
The only reason I’m thinking them and not hobby link is they have both kits ready to go. Hobby link only has the car kit and not the detail kit.
Other kit I’m looking at is the amg gt3 but I’ll get some different decals cause the standard kit is kinda boring in a lot of ways.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
Started on a new project today in a 1/24 Lancia Stratos that was an early Christmas present. I may have hosed up doing the body work though. I used permanent marker to highlight the mold lines and some of it was still in a crack on the model before I primed it. The marker has bled through the primer and I’m sure it’ll bleed through the white top coat. I’m gonna see if flat white hides it before I do the top coat and failing that I may have to sand and clean the few affected bits before re-priming and painting the color

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
I didn’t want to get rid of the primer but I’m glad I caught it before I sprayed the color coat. The flat white didn’t work so I ended up sanding it out and cleaning the grooves out with thinners. Now to reprime so I can do the color when I have time on Monday.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
I’ve done that very same maclaren and the only thing I added was the correct Marlboro decals and not much more.
I’m almost finished a Lancia Stratos and depending on if I find something on Sunday my next kit will be a BMW M6 GT3 done up in Bathurst 12hr colors. I was looking at a different version but decided it was worth the wait to get something decal wise that I’ve seen in the flesh and will get to see again in the next 2 weeks.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
I’m thinking my next step in the hobby will be getting an airbrush after having another set of decals eaten by tamiyas clear spray from a can. The first two light coats didn’t affect them at all but the third one crinkled the decals which doesn’t look real flash on a race car that’s fully decaled.
I figure I can get away with a cheapish compressor with a tank to start with then spend a bit more on a decent airbrush. Used setups are pretty difficult to come across so I’ll have to go for new. Any recommendations for the airbrush itself such as needle size and the like?

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010

Symetrique posted:

.3mm dual-action, gravity feed is the recommendation for a general purpose airbrush, but you might consider larger needle sizes if you mostly paint 1/24 cars and other relatively large subjects.

Certain manufacturers are cheaper in certain regions too, so thats another thing to consider. Badger is pretty cheap in the states, but more expensive in Europe. The inverse is true for Harder & Steenbeck.

I'd avoid the Iwata Neo line entirely. Any of the Japanese airbrush brands, like Iwata, Mr Hobby/GSI Creos, and Tamiya should be more than enough for this hobby, though the later two are much less expensive than Iwata (They're all made in the same factory, apparently).

I’m in Australia so pretty much any airbrush that isn’t a smallish Paasche or sparmax gets pretty expensive fairly quickly. I was thinking of a .5 needle might be too large but I generally do 1/24th cars so it might be a good option.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
The cheapest one that didn’t look terrible was a hseng one which is a Iwata clone of some description. It comes with three different sized paint cups as well as three different sized needles which I figure might work for a bit till I decide to invest in something better.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
Scored a Lamborghini miura kit off my younger brother for my birthday. It’ll be my first kit without piles of decals which should make for a nice change. Downside is the body is molded in red plastic which might be a pain given I want to paint it yellow.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010

Southern Heel posted:

So just so I'm not being an idiot - I've got a scale model car kit (Fujimi Countach 5000) and it looks like it's getting painted as it gets assembled, right? If that's the case. how do I know when to paint a given assembly or subassembly?

In doing all of my cars I’ll generally try to paint sub assemblies while they’re still accessible so I’ll do the dash, seats and door cards separate to the rest of the cabin and assemble after. In my current miura I painted the hand brake and the rest of the components as separate units to make it easier.
At the same time I’ve got various bits of the chassis assembled because it’s not vital they’re separate as components before painting takes place.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
Scored myself a tamiya Sauber kit today from the hoarders hovel for $60 aud. That’s exactly half of what the cheapest price I can find it on eBay. The decals are a little yellowed but I think I’ll live with it really.
I’ll have to go back in a week or two cause they have an xjr9 kit and a porche 956 kit for about the same price. I’d like to have a trio of 80’s c class cars cause they’re pretty loving cool looking cars.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010

Granite Octopus posted:

What’s the hoarders hovel? Gumtree?

Also post some pics of your stratos! I’ve got a hasegawa one in my queue.

The hoarders hovel is what I’ve taken to calling sheriffs mini cars, a hobby shop that’s been in various places around Sydney since the late 70’s but these days is crammed into a factory unit so their stock is floor to ceiling. They mostly do die cast and matchbox type of stuff but they have a good selection of plastic and I believe they trade in stuff from people.
I’ll post pics tomorrow but I will warn you that I hosed the main decals with ts13 so it’s not as smooth as it should be but it’ll live on my shelf as an example of where I’ve come from.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
As requested further up the thread I've got some images of the Lancia Stratos that I finished a few weeks ago. It was a good kit to build but the clear coat I put over the decals ate them as you can see.





On vallejo paints the only thing I don't really like about them is the difficulty in getting them mixed up nicely once they've been sitting for a bit. Their coverage is pretty good though even with brush painting.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010

Arquinsiel posted:

The 1976 Wheeljack looks weird.

What wheel jack

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
Good looking tank.

Took advantage of the good weather today to get the c9 pained.




Spent a fair bit of time getting the panel line removed from the front because it doesn't appear on any of the prototype cars. The priming was done yesterday then left overnight.



Next came a coat of semi gloss black to help the metallic silver go down nicely. I haven't used it before but I think it'll become a permanent feature of the kit for doing undertrays to speed things up.



Base colour on



Freshly clear coated. It'll live in this box till next weekend before I polish it up and apply decals. Should also give time for the detail parts to arrive but they're mostly cabin and brake parts for this kit.



Bonus lizard that I only discovered while moving the body parts into the sun to dry them.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

Is this the Tamiya kit 24091? I've had that on my wish list for a while.

It is. I’m glad I found one as cheap as I did cause eBay versions are silly money these days. Being a 30 year old kit it’s a little bit basic but I’ve got the detail up parts on order and I’m thinking of doing a wired up engine as the engine cover doesn’t need to be attached permanently.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
Photoetch set turned up for the c9. I’ve glued photoetch to plastic with super glue before but had less success gluing etch to other etch. Would I be better of with arildite or wil lgel super glue work alright?

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
Two hours and 16 parts later I have a singular brake disk. Still needs the calipers painted before they can go onto the hub.






And to keep everything aligned during construction I came up with this because it is the same size as the center hole of the etch.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

Man, I'm jealous. I've had my eyes open for that one for a while. Currently $150 on Amazon. Look forward to watching the progress.

The same place had an xjr9 and a 956c as well which I’ll pick up at some point because they’re also kinda cool. I think a lot of the cars I want to build are all things that I had in the Gran Turismo games along the way.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010

George Zimmer posted:

Tamiya 956’s are excellent kits, buy while you can! Hasegawa did a new run of reissued Group C cars that aren’t bad (and quite cheap), but they are not near Tamiya’s quality.

Having built two hasegawa kits back to back they aren’t bad but don’t quite hit on the same level of detail as the tamiya offerings. I’m aiming to wire the engine up as it’ll be exposed in this car but I’ll need to order the supplies to do that first

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

Local joint I assume? I need to check out my local place again and see if they've got any cool poo poo rotated in.

Yeah it’s 10 minutes from the school I work at. They’ve been open in various places around Sydney since the 70’s so they have a huge amount of back stock available in addition to buying kits that people want to trade in.
They aren’t great for detail kits and hobby supplies though so I get that stuff from a company online

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010

Carth Dookie posted:

Did some detail painting on the P47 tonight and came away pleased. Either I'm getting better, or my hand is just steadier when I've eaten something because it all came out much nicer. I was even able to touch up some of the flaws in my airbrushing. A review of the decal plan also shows that some of my overzealous shading will be covered or otherwise offset by some larger decals, which is nice. Tomorrow I might even get the chance to get it mostly assembled for the first gloss coat. Exciting times.

Eating always makes a difference to how straight you can keep a line really. I know when I was painting a lot of warhammer stuff it was difficult to get things how I wanted them if I pushed through without eating. I also find super fine brushes to be a pain in the butt and did most of my stuff and still do with a decent size 0.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
A touch more progress. I did the carbon decals the other day and tonight I did the bare metal. I know the stuff lower down is crinkly and a little poo poo but most of it will be covered by the exhausts and turbos. I also attempted arildite on the etched pieces but it didn’t really work all that well. I need to get some more clear and a couple of paints tomorrow so I’ll see if they have some thin ca that might wick a little better into the join.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
Tamiyas F1 kits aren’t too bad to put together as long as you check the fit of the body on the undertray of the car.
I tried using arildite on some of the photoetch bits but it created a bit of a mess and didn’t glue that well in the end. I got some brush on ca today which is thinner than the gel and seems to wick into joints quite nicely so I’ll be able to get the rest of the photoetch put together shortly. I may have to put the kit on hold for a little while at some point so that I can get the wire I want to make the engine match the prototype version though because the tamiya wire I would like to use is only available from Japan which I’ll add to my order that’s getting released on Monday

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
The 30 year old decals on this c9 kit are giving me the shits. They appear to be going down good with a little bit of markfit then they shift sideways are a irredeemably ruined. Might have to track down an aftermarket set cause one of the ones the died was the Mercedes logo on the front of the car. I’m taking any that remain very easily lest I destroy more of them.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply