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Van Dis posted:Long shot, but has anyone heard any news about Bandai's new Star Wars models since they were announced last year? We've talked about them a bit in the Gundam thread, they're really good. Problem is, all of the import sites that were selling them got the smackdown from Disney so they might be harder to find outside of Japan now. edit: they're still all over e-bay. I'd go for it if you want one.
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Oct 7, 2015 02:07
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Pierzak posted:Almost. click it fffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff
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Oct 18, 2015 20:14
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Commissar Canuck posted:Ordered that hi mock You basically want to assemble it so you can see what bits are visible and how it all looks together, then pull it back apart to paint the sections as needed. You'll want to either mask off the joints or just pull the non-joint parts off altogether and airbrush them. It's kinda hard to explain if you haven't messed with a gundam before but once you see it it's really clear. It does get a little trickier if you cement weld parts together, because then you obviously can't pull them back apart, so the initial test build is even more important in that case. If you have a lot of time, this goes into everything but is a bit of overkill IMO. Depends on how much time you want to put into it. If you're already used to scale modeling techniques, which I assume you are, you're good to go. http://funakatown.com/images/Building_Gunpla_Final.pdf long-ass nips Diane fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Oct 21, 2015 |
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Oct 21, 2015 16:16
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Does anyone have advice on painting a model with movable parts like that?
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Are there any good online stores for buying weathering pigments and other supplies like that? I went to hobbytown today and it was a total bust, they only had a super small and expensive selection.
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Oct 23, 2015 22:51
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big_g posted:Sorry to be spamming the thread with this but it'll be the last you see of it now. I took some shots in daylight today which show the colours a bit better I think. The map and junk on the hood is so good.
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Oct 26, 2015 23:16
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So, I've never actually weathered anything and I'm not sure what to use. I have some assorted Games Workshop washes to use, but I was thinking about grabbing other things. Is this set any good? I was hoping that and those Flory washes would sort me out for doing whatever, unless I need something specific like mud for tank treads or whatever. I'm currently working on a Bandai X-Wing, and I'm going to do the November Hi-Mock build, if there are any specific recommendations for models of that sort. I think I'm going to get into tanks after that. edit: The Flory Pigments set is about the same price as that MIG set and comes with more colors, it might be a better purchase if I'm ordering from there anyway. long-ass nips Diane fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Oct 27, 2015 |
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Oct 27, 2015 03:22
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That is super cool. Did you do the LED work as well?
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Oct 29, 2015 05:39
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Deanut Pancer posted:Coming from doing mostly GW 40k kits, I'm pleasantly surprised at the quality of the kit and the amount of plastic for the price. It was quite a fun build. Now I want to buy all the new BanDai Star Wars kits if they're anything like this. The Star Wars kit are really good, I've been working on the X-Wing and I like it a lot.
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Nov 6, 2015 01:21
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Troll Bridgington posted:Well that's some bullshit. All it means is you have to buy them on amazon instead of from one of the big Japanese model import sites. They're still the same price.
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Nov 6, 2015 06:29
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The Locator posted:Thanks everyone. It was a very long day, left the house before 5am, and got home about 9pm pretty exhausted. I was one of the club photographers for the event so I've got a lot of photo editing to do today. I will eventually get the pictures up in a gallery somewhere and post a link. I shot the ships and all the diorama's. I also took some other random photo's, but not 'officially', including a pretty full set of all the figures, but I didn't really shoot hardly any aircraft or armor this time. Was there all day and yet somehow the time just disappeared. Congrats, it's nice to see all that hard work rewarded.
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Nov 8, 2015 16:05
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I'm more interested in CrapPlane since I've never even bought a model plane before and I've got a ton of Bones from their first kickstarter that I can't be bothered to touch.
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Dec 1, 2015 20:12
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lilljonas posted:How about this: a poll for type of kit. It's open until midnight GMT on Sunday. On Monday morning, I will randomly draw one of the people that voted for the winning type. That person has one week to choose a kit, with the caveat that it must be generally available and under 20 buck on Amazon ("The Spirit of Crapkit"). Rest of the thread can give tips, but the drawn poster get's to decide. Don't ask me to pick one, though
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Dec 2, 2015 20:16
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Um... I do 1/144 scale Gundams except for the one 1/100 one I have. A coherent scale with a larger centerpiece looks way better for my situation, which is that I have one shelf to display things and I rotate as I build new models. If you have a lot of display space I think a wider range of scales would be cool, or if you did a themed display like the same vehicle in a bunch of different scales.
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Dec 6, 2015 05:25
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I have a Lego Clone Wars model that's all cowlings on, it's great. Really cool take on the Y-Wing.
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Dec 26, 2015 07:05
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If you want the star wars bandai stuff in the US it's a lot cheaper on amazon: http://smile.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&field-keywords=bandai%20star%20wars&index=blended
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Dec 30, 2015 04:19
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Iron Crowned posted:So, what is the current standard on brush on primer, and/or how to use it? I just use Vallejo surface primer and, uh, brush it on. You don't need to thin it or anything.
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Jan 18, 2016 15:45
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I bought a Mazda K360, but lord knows when it'll get here 
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Mar 5, 2016 04:06
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I also bought the Turtle, half because when I showed it to my friends they all assumed it was from some 80's sci-fi property and not from real life. edit: the coupon was still valid and worked on clearance material as of 9:30 AM CST today
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Mar 22, 2016 15:43
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I got the same crap car that makka-setan did, and every surface that can have terrible flash does. Gonna be a bit of a project, I've never done a car before at all and it's been years since I've dealt with flash.
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Mar 23, 2016 17:45
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:3D printing has completely taken over the toy industry. Virtually no company sculpts their masters anymore for toys, everything is sculpted digitally and then prototypes and final masters are 3D printed. This is completely different from the "print your models at home" future people are discussing, though. Digital modelling has been great for most of the wargames I play, so I'm pretty glad it's a thing, but we're still a long way from cost-effectively printing out a 1:35 tank sprue in my living room.
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Apr 21, 2016 20:08
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Van Dis posted:This isn't a scale model precisely but it's along those lines. My wife enjoys this iphone cat collecting game called Neko Atsume, so I made her a little neko-atsume-themed version of our own cat out of sculpey: That's really sweet 
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Apr 24, 2016 04:45
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ptier posted:What would you recommend as a good beginner brush? I bought this and it's great, but it's not really in the same price bracket. Maybe if you can find it on sale. http://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Eclipse-Action-Airbrush-Gravity/dp/B000BQKFAI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
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May 10, 2016 21:06
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Greyhawk posted:So Miniart has decided to be even more insane then usual and their new T-54 B will feature over a 1000 parts. Fully detailed interior and hatches that you can model shut so nobody ever has to see the hack job you do putting it together
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May 17, 2016 01:26
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COOL CORN posted:I really want to make an armored car of some sort. Maybe an Italian Ariete division AB41. Have you accepted the turtle unto your shelf? http://www.squadron.com/Takom-1-35-WWII-Skoda-PA-11-Turtle-p/tak2024.htm
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May 17, 2016 04:00
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Darth Brooks posted:Definitely leave it alone. The fact that it's painted by someone who served on her gives even a crap paint job a meaning that a perfect paint job wouldn't have. Thirding. That plaque rules as is, display it proudly.
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Aug 6, 2016 04:23
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ExtraNoise posted:Pierzak showed me that this thread exists. I'm so excited. These are great, especially considering they're supposed to be for game use and not display. The only minor feedback I'd give is that it kinda looks like the sandbags on the front are about to topple off.
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Jan 29, 2017 18:23
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Hamshot posted:You'll want a top gravity feed, internal mix, dual action airbrush. Top gravity feed: don't waste paint Internal mix: paint is atomized inside the airbrush, cleaner, easier, don't waste paint dual action: better control of your work because you can control how much air you're spraying
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Jan 30, 2017 02:53
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Mr. Powers posted:I can't find any info on whether the Iwata Neo is internal mix, but the Revolution is listed as internal mix, so I'm guessing that means the Neo is NOT internal mix. The Revolution was suggested by them for starter. Looks like it's around $80-90. I don't actually think Iwata sells external mix airbrushes. I bought an Eclipse, it's pretty good, does everything I need it to. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQKFAI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They're usually cheaper than 143 bucks, though. I paid 85 for mine.
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Jan 30, 2017 03:30
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Italeri seems like one of those manufacturers where everyone looks at their stuff and goes "Hmm, that's nice.", but no one actually ever buys their stuff. I'll take a look at anyone who makes cheap tanks in 1/56
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Feb 5, 2017 05:38
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That is extremely cool.
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Mar 27, 2017 06:15
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Feenix posted:So for this Bandai 1/12 stormtrooper, is the base coat of clear coat necessary before I do anything? (Water decals, Tamiya weathering, Vallejo wash, etc?) or can any of that be done on bare plastic? I would definitely seal it between paint and the other steps.
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Oct 15, 2018 18:57
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SocketWrench posted:They are, though I can't totally find fault in it because they do a lot of retired sets Lego tossed out that resellers want 10,000% the retail price on along with their own stuff too that's priced a bit more. Yeah, I don't really have an issue with them copying sets that you can otherwise only get from scalpers, but they seem to just copy everything
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Nov 7, 2018 21:10
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Unkempt posted:Hitachi ZC50T-5 vibratory tandem roller, Hasegawa 1/35 This rules, I love models of mundane stuff.
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Nov 14, 2018 18:05
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:We're all here because we enjoy the overall hobby, so keep posting. I keep posting my cars but everybody here only builds armor so nobody cares I care! I just don't post much.
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Dec 16, 2018 02:21
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Looks cool, what is it?
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Jan 16, 2019 21:38
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Nebakenezzer posted:I didn't know this was a thing: This guy's channel is pretty good too, I got into it when I was making cars for the Gaslands tabletop game. https://www.youtube.com/user/baremetalHW
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Jan 24, 2019 20:51
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I've got the sherman on my shelf, it's good.
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Feb 1, 2019 00:42
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Are there any diorama builders around? I want to build a little farmhouse or something for the tank I'm working on, and the best-looking 1:35 brick molds I've found so far are from this shop in the UK, but they want 20+ dollars to ship to the US. Are there any US-based alternatives y'all could recommend, or maybe an alternate technique to build walls that isn't just plaster casting bricks? I've never done any sort of diorama work so I'm just going off of this video as a tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQJNqKbRh2Q
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Apr 29, 2019 14:57
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Southern Heel posted:Just get plasticard embossed with your relevant texture? I didn't know this existed, thanks for the info! Molentik posted:Or get some of that blue isolation foam and scribe it in. I think I'm gonna go this route, using a greenstuffworld rolling pin.
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Apr 29, 2019 19:34
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Phi230 posted:Do you have any tips on how to use the flow improver? Not to speak for Grassy Gnoll, but I pretty much just use flow improver when airbrushing, unless a paint is really thick like Scale75 or Warcolors, in which case I will mix in some airbrush thinner. The key is, if you mix in the airbrush cup, to put your flow improver/thinner/water in first, and then the paint. If you put in the paint first it'll run down into the needle channel (I don't know if there's a technical term for this) and it won't thin well at all, even if you backflow to mix it up.
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May 30, 2019 16:54
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