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Unkempt posted:Yeah, the windows are way too thick but I only really noticed that once I'd actually broken the front one. How would you use the thin plastic? Just bend it into shape or mould it? I guess I could have used the original windscreen as a mould but hey, too late now. I'll chalk that one up as a learning experience. To be honest, I didn't mean to fog them up that badly either.
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May 11, 2012 14:11
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I am sure it's been covered many times, but I am new to the hobby and wondering if there are any companies I should avoid purchasing. I will be doing WWII stuff, 1:35. I don't have any need to buy only the best, but would rather not end up with something so poorly built that it's frustrating to assemble. I just finished my first model, a 1:48 Tamiya and to my untrained eye, it seemed like reasonable quality.
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Mar 13, 2014 00:27
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Blistex posted:Some of the Airfix kits are still using the same molds from the 50's and some of the Italeri models are really looked down upon. Another thing you've got to remember that the typical scale modeller is an elitist who usually buys a kit, only to use 3 parts out of the box (naturally covered in putty and carved to hell to make them acceptable) and the remaining 98% of the model is aftermarket photo etched and solid brass parts, each costing more than the original kit.
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Mar 13, 2014 02:12
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I have a very important modeling question - How do I get my girlfriend to stop giggling at me when I am building models? Also, has anyone ever had instructions tell them to glue a piece on backwards? Screwed up the front spare track clamp on my Revell Stug IV because of an improper diagram.
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May 4, 2014 01:17
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I was having a bunch of fit issues too, but was chalking it up to inexperience. Good to know I might be able to blame Revell.
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May 4, 2014 05:48
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Finished my StuG IV assembly, and find myself with absolutely no desire to paint it. I didn't paint the model I did before this one, because (or so I told myself) it was 1:48 scale, and too small for my first paint job. As it turns out, I may just have no desire to paint models despite enjoying building them. Am I alone on this one? Also, as a general rule, is there a reason why a model would come with a bunch of parts labeled "Not Used"? Some pieces seem to be duplicates, others seem to be *incredibly* minor variations on used pieces. I'm imagining if it's a repackage of an older set, maybe they used to be intended to be more customizable? Why not carry that forward and explain in the instructions that you can choose either part, and explain (briefly) the difference?
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May 7, 2014 03:18
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That is awesome. Making me reconsider my stance on painting
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May 18, 2014 00:25
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Baronjutter posted:Hill coming along
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Feb 8, 2015 15:09
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everythingWasBees posted:Are there any train scales that roughly correspond to 1:100? Local hobby shops with a plethora of train materials with not much else are really common around where I live (or, will be living), and I've been wanting to do a diorama with a 1:100 model. HO is 1:80 or so. N is 1:140 or so. I don't believe there is anything between them. Nothing common enough that you will have a good selection at least.
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Mar 15, 2015 04:37
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The Locator posted:On the real ship the wheel works by pulling the rope around the barrel, and below the deck the rope is run through pulleys to the aft end of the ship where it's attached to a tiller which is attached to the top of the rudder. By rotating the barrel that the rope is on, it moves the tiller and the rudder.
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Jun 23, 2015 03:37
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Baronjutter posted:That was all nice and even with no ballast above the ties before I applied the glue. Then it looks like this this morning. I get these weird patterns were every other outer tie has too little ballast or too much. I should have gone with real rock ballast. All the stuff you buy at stores are actually crushed up shells, so they float in water. If you use real mineral ballast I hear there's much less of a problem with the glue moving things around, since the main issue is ballast floating up and re-settling. This was on a bunch of ez track, and ended up looking pretty good, except for our misguided hope that we could do individual pieces in the comfort of our living room versus doing it all in place in the basement. Visible seams everywhere, and ballast falling off when we were putting everything together.
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Jul 27, 2015 01:54
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lilljonas posted:Either way, I just finished it, and now I think I know how I'll paint it.
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Aug 13, 2015 15:25
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jadebullet posted:Speaking of boxes, how come a lot of kits look like they are really old based on the boxart style, but when you look them up they were issued after 2000. It may be that I am used to seeing Revelle kits where the artwork is crisp, but a lot of them seem really faded. I get the boxes not being updated, what weirds me out is that twice now I have opened a box and found an insert printed in the 70s inviting me to join the Tamiya builders club or some such. Send in a dollar, get sent a bunch of supplies, etc. How is that insert inside of boxes purchased in 2015 from different hobby shops?
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Dec 7, 2015 20:38
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Do those hold and place pencil things work? I was planning on getting some rubber tipped tweezers/forceps but now the pencil things have caught my interest.
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Jan 3, 2016 14:39
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Unkempt posted:
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Feb 2, 2016 02:01
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tunah posted:I did a test yesterday where I figured that it could be because I didn't clean the airbrush enough, maybe a bit of IPA was left after cleaning and reacted with the varnish
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Mar 4, 2016 18:01
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Blue Footed Booby posted:Highly recommended for anyone who likes screwball war machines of unclear purpose. Slugworth fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Mar 22, 2016 |
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Mar 22, 2016 03:10
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George Zimmer posted:If it's a small part, Tamiya acrylic clear works very well. I use it for affixing PE parts onto painted surfaces where CA would ruin the finish. That's all.
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Apr 18, 2016 23:33
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Even if the entire airbrush dissolved in your hand, you're only out fifty bucks.
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May 2, 2016 18:22
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The Locator posted:That black car needs a carwash. No, what it needs is to remain looking that way, and then for him to write 'wash me' on its rear window with a toothpick.
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May 16, 2016 15:24
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COOL CORN posted:Branching out from German armor a bit, put together the Tamiya 1/35 M41 Walker Bulldog yesterday
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Jul 19, 2016 04:09
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I was at an airshow today with a couple of Avengers, a P51D, and most importantly, a couple of T6s, one of which I took a flight in. Ton of fun. Now I know what my next model is gonna be.
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Sep 25, 2016 22:51
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Now make it look as though vandals have changed it to Dick street. It's more authentic.
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Nov 14, 2016 03:43
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Baronjutter posted:There are... TWO trees! Wait, did I just invent a way to make a forest on a train table look bigger? Has anyone played with mirrors to that effect?
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Dec 12, 2016 01:13
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Saves the rest of us from having to google 'toilet bomb'.
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Jul 10, 2017 18:25
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Baronjutter posted:Traditionally the railways have been very supportive at best or ambivalent at worse towards scale modelers. People running model trains of their railway is basically free advertising and good will, so why not? UP though decided to get all trade marky and say you can only make UP branded trains if you pay for the rights, and then I think they also gave exclusive rights to certain companies. Any smaller "garage" scale company that made anything UP related got hit with legal threats.
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Aug 31, 2017 18:40
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Smoke posted:Unfortunately the only place that stocks the Rob Taurus canopy that I could find charges four times as much for shipping the part as for the part itself, which is a bit much(and there's nothing else they have that I would want or need for any of the kits I currently have). It's not available in any of the shops here that I've checked, and the ones I could find online didn't have it either. Find an appropriate sized model of a goose, glue it to the canopy, add blood splatter.
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Mar 2, 2018 14:37
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Arquinsiel posted:Torn propaganda poster or some graffiti on the wall?
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Jul 14, 2018 12:41
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I know we have a few train folks here - Is there a forum somewhere that I can ask numerous questions about a dcc setup that *isn't* a hellhole of weird olds? Alternatively, would it be appropriate for me to ask stuff here? I don't wanna stray too far off topic.
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Feb 18, 2019 01:28
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I've been put in charge of figuring out how to setup my girlfriend's NCE Power Cab. Do I absolutely need a programming track separate from my main track? All the literature included in the set seems to indicate a program track is just sort of helpful, but online I'm seeing a lot of references to accidentally destroying dcc decoders by programming on the main track. For what it's worth, there will only be a single locomotive. I know the dcc is overkill for now, but she has larger ambitions down the road. Additionally, it says to run a "bus line" of 18g wire around the entire setup and feed off of that to the track every 6 feet. Is there any fancy wiring that needs to happen, or do I just wirenut a terminal track joiner to the bus wires every 6 feet?
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Feb 18, 2019 02:58
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always be closing posted:Do they use wire nuts usually? I think you would rather have an automotive style crimp connecter. What I'm picturing is a loop of wire underneath the perimeter of the table. From there, every 6 feet there'd be a feed up to the track. So, essentially the track would be powered in parallel every 6 feet. That rules out automotive style crimps, unless there's a T-connection crimp out there or I'm just thoroughly misunderstanding something. All my wiring knowledge comes from home wiring, thus my proposal of wire nuts. http://mrr.trains.com/how-to/dcc-electrical/2014/09/track-buses-for-digital-command-control The picture at the top of that link is basically what I'm picturing, but without the connections being bare solder, because something about that just weirds me out. Slugworth fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Feb 18, 2019 |
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Feb 18, 2019 03:41
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Southern Heel posted:Programming tracks run at much lower output than the rest of the layout, so if you gently caress something up it doesn't explode anything. I didn't listen to my own advice and put a loco with the chip on upside down onto the main and after a few seconds of buzzing the chip caught fire and let out the magic smoke. Whether you need a dedicated track or not is another matter - it depends on how many locos you have. Simplest way is to do what I did - set up a toggle switch to flip the whole layout from main to programming and use that to set the loco addresses one time (you'll need to remove every loco other than the one you want to address while this goes ahead), and then flip it back and use programming on the main going forward. Page 1 of the manual describes setting up a small bit of main track and getting a locomotive running. Page 2 then discusses programming a loco address by entering programming mode - it doesnt make any reference to a separate programming track. Is it just implied that one had already been set up?
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Feb 19, 2019 00:14
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Splode posted:Could you put a dedicated track/siding on for locomotive ID programming? It'd be kind of cool if you had a yard where you start your locos, program them, then send them out one at a time.
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Feb 19, 2019 02:32
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If I paint a model with some basic acrylic paint, and throw on the decals, what options do I have down the line for weathering? This will be my first time painting, so I'm planning on keeping things simple, but it'd be nice to know I could always improve on it later if I got the urge.
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Mar 8, 2019 03:20
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Carth Dookie posted:Lots?
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Mar 8, 2019 05:21
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N17R4M posted:
On the subject of colors, why are the little color cards on the paint racks at stores so absolutely useless? Model Master in particular is really bad at portraying what color their paint actually is - Their hull red for example is actually an appropriate shade, but the color card for it is like, Ferrari red. It's real frustrating, because you obviously can't get a great idea of the shade by just shaking the bottle a bit either. Also, I don't wanna sit there shaking bottles all day.
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Apr 23, 2019 12:58
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I never actually expected modelers to keep scraps of aircraft to color compare
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The punishment should be forcing those 4 kids to help rebuild until they begin to genuinely enjoy model railroading. The real punishment doesn't begin until they realize one day that they're arguing online about graffiti on model trains.
Slugworth fucked around with this message at 13:05 on May 20, 2019 |
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May 20, 2019 13:02
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Quote is not edit
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May 20, 2019 13:04
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Anyone done a caunter paint scheme and have a set of colors they like for it? I'm finding nothing but people recommending various mixes of paints (which is honestly just more involved than I'm interested in) or paint colors that are no longer made. Right now I'm leaning towards Tamiya desert yellow, gray green, and olive drab, but I really don't feel like I have a good eye for it.
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Jun 2, 2019 04:53
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Are photoetch bending pliers worth dropping money on? I'm in the middle of a model that has a *lot* of bending involved, and like, lengthwise. Making quite a bit of lengths of angle iron, for example. Absolute pain in the rear end with my current strategy, which is a pair of tweezers with globs of super glue all over them.
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Jun 10, 2019 01:15
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