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Powdered Toast Man posted:Tamiya paints would definitely be labeled, though...did you get one of those Testors themed sets (e.g. aircraft, cars, etc)? This is why I'll never be that good . . . quote:http://www.naritafamily.com/howto/Tiger1/step1.htm Parts that won't even be VISIBLE in the finished model, he does a two stage sanding process on. Wow.
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Jul 23, 2009 04:42
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Slung Blade posted:Forgive me if I'm talking out of my rear end here, but aren't guitar strings tempered steel? They are, but, they're normally so flexible that you don't need to bend 'em into a certain shape. Just glue the ends into place and that's it. Besides, not everyone has a propane torch. And a welding kit. And a giant antique tractor. And batteries, and one of the coolest DIY threads. So get out of our little tiny toys thread and go play with your big awesome real toy and let us pretend!
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Sep 23, 2009 20:56
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:For airbrush use, don't use water. Go to an art store and get some Liquitex Airbrush Medium. It'll thin like water, but it also has paint adhesives added so it won't reduce the paints ability to coat and stick to the model like water would do. For thinning paints to be brushed on, Liquitex also makes some thinners, but an even better alternative is a product called Floetrol. You can find this at hardware and paint shops, as it's a paint conditioner for household paint. It comes in a fairly large bottle for cheap, so one bottle will likely last you forever. Not only will it thin, it makes brush painting go on far smoother with fewer visible brush strokes. A nice thinning ratio is one part Floetrol, one part soapy water, and 3 parts paint. Future Floor Wax is almost the same thing. It's an acrylic medium that helps paint flow and stick without diluting it's coating ability as much as water. Think of mixing water with your paint as creating a suspension; acrylic medium creates an actual solution. Around here, a huge bottle of Future costs around $9 and lasts a long time. It also makes a great gloss coat when sprayed by itself. EvilMuppet posted:Er.. all models need some greenstuff, doesn't matter how well they are made. Yeah, but warping and huge gaps is a different story. Although, I haven't had many problems with Tamiya; they've always struck me as pretty high quality. Why don't you post some pix of the problem areas, so we can tell you if it's a genuine problem or just part of the model building experience!
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Sep 27, 2009 16:09
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Danger - Octopus! posted:Can anyone suggest any WW2 German armour camo schemes that you can paint convincingly without an airbrush? The usual ones that I've seen all have very soft edges that you'd need an airbrush for, but were there any with a hard edged pattern? Part of the problem you're going to run into there is the scale modeler's mindset of the "right" way to do the paintjob. In the later stages of the war, troops were given buckets of paint and brushes, and did whatever the gently caress they could in the field. So you had everything from paint applied too thick by brushes, to guys thinning the paint so much so that it was almost like a wash. In the early part of the war, they had time to do paint jobs in the factory, so you've got very different levels of quality, but scale modelers love airbrushing and drybrushing, so even if the "real thing" wouldn't have looked like that, everyone knows that you drybrush to show weathering! http://www.soldatini.miniatures.de/mimetica-invernale-carri-armati.html http://modelbuilder.freeyellow.com/buildups.htm Both of those show some cool winter type camo. You can also get soft feathered edges by drybrushing carefully, or stippling.
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Sep 28, 2009 19:20
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Danger - Octopus! posted:You make a good point about the way scale modelers do things. I really like that overpainted winter camo look. I'd imagine it's hard to make it look good, and not like you just hosed up painting the model though! One of the pix I used, as a reference for my IG tanks, is this Abrams.  But I realized that the weird spattering of the mud looks so . . . odd, that if I did it on a scale model, people would think I'd done it wrong. It's kinda crazy that modelers have such a set idea of how something SHOULD look, that you can make something look so much like the real thing (the "prototype" in modeler parlance) that it looks "wrong." On the other hand, the crushed fenders and the mud built up in the road wheels is why I like that picture a lot. It's a good example of how in even the driest deserts, you still get mud and gunk built up on everything.
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Sep 29, 2009 00:58
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Wibbleman posted:But here is a great example of someone taking one of the premium ed kits and going completely mental. That is insane. Just, seriously insane. It looks good in the end, but god drat. That, and the large scale space marine, make me ask a question. If you're going to go through and superdetail and replace the vast majority of the pieces, why even buy a kit in the first place?! Not only did he buy the kit, but it looks like he bought both a Verlinden AND a Dragon detailing kit, along with even more stuff. And he doesn't use ANYTHING from the Verlinden upgrade; just pix to show how much it sucks, and he uses very little from the dragon upgrade kit. The vast majority of the work is done by hand, scratchbuilding. So why spend between $200 and $300 for kits and upgrades when you're going to end up doing it all from scratch anyway?
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Oct 3, 2009 23:03
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Shachi posted:Just a quick update. I went out to my local Hobby Lobby and ended up getting cold feet and coming back empty handed. I personally wish I'd gotten a "real" air compressor from a hardware store. You can always dial down the pressure and put a different hose on it. If you get one with a big enough tank, it'll just run for a little while and then you can spray with the pressure in the tank. It sounds like it would cost less, too, than what you're looking at.
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Nov 27, 2009 23:19
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ZenMastaT posted:I was actually thinking of moving up to 1/48 for the next thing I build for that same reason. Since the pair of tweezers I have are kind of dumb and awkward I ended up rolling up a tiny strip of masking tape and using that, stuck to the part and one finger, to get things into place. Not the best solution and I definitely hosed up a couple times. Weathering is something I've never found very difficult. I find it easier (and more interesting) than a polished perfect brand new machine. It's much easier for me to simulate a beat up, dirty tank than a shiny candy apple red Camaro. There are dozens of techniques out there to simulate weathering, far too many to list in one post. An airbrush is important, tho. The real pros end up using things like enamel and even oil based paints. Generally, you're best off building in assemblies or sub assemblies, then gluing those together. For example, build the cockpit and paint it, then place it inside the hull, mask it off, then paint the hull. Any putty or extra work done to make parts fit obviously needs to be done before painting. On the other hand, it's all about how much work you want to do. Some people go crazy; they seal off their garage and wash it before airbrushing to minimize dust, they'll scratchbuild controls and assemblies that won't ever even be SEEN once the model is completed. Other people are happy to slap together a kit and just paint what's on the outside.
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Dec 10, 2009 22:27
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