|
ZenMastaT posted:I used to make models when I was younger like a lot of other guys in this thread, and I'm just now thinking of getting back into the hobby. I was strictly a beginner back then - no painting or anything of the sort so I'm thinking of starting with something on the easier end, maybe a WWII aircraft or something. MH-53E Sea Dragon in 1:48: http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=MH12703 CH-53E Super Sea Stallion in 1:48: http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=MH12209 You could try to convert these if you want a larger model (these things are pretty big in that scale), but I don't know of a conversion kit that would facilitate that. There is, however, a 1:72 MH-53J Pave Low III made by Italeri. I can't seem to find it for sale on any model sites any more, so it must be out of production right now. I'd suggest checking eBay if you're interested in it. Here's some pictures of a finished one: http://arcair.com/Gal6/5601-5700/gal5640_MH53_Yilmaz/00.shtm (by the way, if you want inspiration you can't go wrong with ARC's massive gallery, including pictures from some of the best modelers in the world) Regarding air compressor discussion, I bought the "no brand" green boxy thing that Hobby Lobby carries and I'm quite satisfied with it. It has no tank, which means it runs on demand, but it is very quiet. I added a drier/filter and it has served me well with my Iwata Revolution CR. I don't recall how much I paid for it but I did use a 40% off coupon. 
|
#
¿
Nov 30, 2009 14:46
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 24, 2024 05:41 |
|
|
Shachi posted:Does anyone have any info on the "Masters" brand of AB? Dual action is the way to go, no matter what particular model or brand that you get. Beyond that, consider how much detail work you think you'll be doing. A gravity feed cup airbrush is best for detail work because the paint flow is easier to control. This doesn't mean that you can't do large area painting with it, just that it may take longer and the cup doesn't hold as much paint as a bottom-feed bottle. I have a Revolution CR (gravity feed cup) and I've used it for both detail work and laying down a base coat on an entire model. Looking at Iwata's specs, the main difference I can see between the Revolution and Eclipse lines is that they specifically state that the Eclipse is capable of dealing with thicker, heavier paints. For working on models, however, you're going to want to avoid thickness and thin the paint down with water (for acrylics) or thinner (for lacquers). It might mean you have to lay down multiple coats but the control is worth it.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 2, 2009 14:28
|
|
|
ZenMastaT posted:Would any of you know what paint (applied by paintbrush) most closely resembles US Navy gray? My helicopter model thing recommends gunship gray, but some reviews and online galleries show that this is a ridiculous color which is too dark and wrong. What you need is the 'FS' number for the particular shade. Check it out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Federal_Standard_595 You'll find that any paint maker that makes colors for painting military hardware will have a full assortment of FS shades, including that particular shade of grey. This is just a guess, but I'm leaning towards FS36320: http://www.colorserver.net/showcolor.asp?fs=36320 "Dark Ghost Gray" You might want to consider having fun with some weathering techniques, because this is definitely a "dirty bird".
|
|
#
¿
Dec 8, 2009 16:40
|
|
|
ZenMastaT posted:Thanks again for all your advice guys. I picked up some Tamiya acrylic paints that look like they should do the job alright - it turns out I may be able to drum up an airbrush and a compressor from a relative in the near future so if I don't lose patience by then I may go that route. For now I'm satisfied with the challenge of just putting the thing together. You'll find that the touch-n-flow works best if you put the two parts together and then touch the seam to let the liquid cement flow into it. Hold the parts together tightly during this and wait until it seems to have set up. Alternatively, you may need to clamp it together if it won't hold together at rest-as in, if the plastic is warped so that you have to actually force the seam together, which is reasonably common. You can also hold it together with strategically placed masking tape. The 'dried glue' marks that you speak of will disappear with paint, don't worry about them. That's just something the liquid cement does when it evaporates off the plastic.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 9, 2009 21:03
|
|
|
Well, when I got my touch-n-flow it came in a kit with some Tenax-7R and also included was a 'needle bottle' which is basically a plastic bottle with a tiny metal tube coming out of the cap. This allows you to easily fill the touch-n-flow's tube because it fits inside.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 10, 2009 14:48
|
|
|
That T-34 looks great. Nice to see some activity in here! Up next for me: http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=61093 I'm planning to do some weathering on it such as the 'salt crust' method I mentioned earlier in the thread; WWII Japanese planes generally looked very beat up and didn't get repainted much at all.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 14, 2009 14:37
|
|
|
With regard to mixing paints, I got a Badger Paint Mixer and never looked back. It's cheap, runs off two AA batteries, and mixes the gently caress out of any paint. Quick Google search turned it up for $6.38 at Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Airbrush-Paint-Mixer/dp/B000BROV02
|
|
#
¿
Jan 1, 2010 16:03
|
|
|
Mr. Despair posted:Well I'm glad I found out about this thread. I've built a few things, and while most of it isn't really amazing, I still have fun doing it. Most of the following is hand painted (the stug III, Skyline, and Porsche are exceptions though). I have a paasche, but it doesn't get much use. Great stuff, thanks for posting it. What's the build quality like on Zvezda kits? I've considered getting some of their 1/72 stuff before because they model a lot of planes that just aren't available from anyone else.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 17, 2010 16:07
|
|
|
I thought you guys would appreciate this: http://www.finescale.com/en/How%20To/Articles/2010/01/DESKTOP%20WALLPAPER%20Erin%20Lantzs%20132%20scale%20F-16.aspx It was in the last issue of FSM. The article talked about the painstaking process of masking off all those sections of different colors, which resulted in one of the most amazing paint jobs I've ever seen. I have to think that the military probably wouldn't do this for real because it would be too much of a pain in the rear end, although maybe they could get robots to paint it that way.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 1, 2010 14:01
|
|
|
I've been working on the new Hasegawa 1:48 F-22 Raptor and I have to say I am very impressed. It was expensive, but the quality is absolutely top notch as I've come to expect from Hasegawa. The details are crisp, the molding is excellent with little to no flash, and the instructions, while complex, are easy to follow. So far I've got the two side weapons bays and the landing gear bays put in, and that's already taken me a few hours because of the intricate and delicate missile launcher mechanisms in the weapons bays. I don't know how Hasegawa got such an accurate molding of a plane that is still so classified. I went to an air show recently and they had on F-22 on the ground but it was all buttoned up and cordoned off about 50 feet out with armed Marine guards circling it.  Once I get the cockpit done (which is also highly detailed and very nice) I'll post some pics. Anyway, highly recommended if you're looking for a new project or you like the F-22. It also includes Sidewinder and AMRAAM missiles, which is atypical for Hasegawa as they don't usually include stores.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 3, 2010 16:26
|
|
|
Jumpingmanjim posted:I want to make that one but the paint job looks demanding. How do you do it? can you make a stencil or something? I'm not sure yet. If you look at a picture of a real Raptor the edges of the darker gray areas are soft, so I may try to just airbrush it freehand. Ultimately, it's pretty subtle. Another option would be masking with silly putty, but any sort of masking you do is going to leave a sharper edge.  edit: I'm going to try to finish the cockpit tonight. Pictures hopefully forthcoming!
Powdered Toast Man fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Nov 16, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Nov 16, 2010 19:32
|
|
|
Maybe we should start doing model pledges like the Warhammer guys do with their figures.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 18, 2010 16:08
|
|
|
Nebakenezzer posted:And give out new avatars to those that fail, presumably You presume correctly, sir! Anyone have any tips for painting seamless, nice-looking jet intakes?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 19, 2010 17:15
|
|
|
I believe this is relevant to our interests, gentlemen: http://www.funlol.com/15983/Build_your_own_chopper.html
|
|
#
¿
Dec 6, 2010 19:25
|
|
|
Yeah, I've sliced my fingers with an X-Acto knife more times than I can count. It's especially bad when you're trying to trim flash or ejector pin marks off a fiddly little part held between your fingers. Fortunately I have superglue handy already to help close up those wounds!
|
|
#
¿
Dec 8, 2010 18:24
|
|
|
Really any compressor will do as long as you can regulate the PSI and put a filter/drier on it. The main factor is noise; small compressors made specifically for airbrush purposes are generally much more quiet than a compressor made to run air tools and fill tires.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 31, 2010 00:40
|
|
|
Hypnotized posted:Thanks guys. The weathering was done with a silver ink pen. Then I did a couple flat black washes over the plane to sort of dull it a bit. That's a great idea; hadn't thought of it before. Some of these WWII planes got a lot of paint chipped off during use (Japanese planes in particular are famous for this because they didn't bother to repaint them), and opinions vary on the best way to capture that. I've mentioned salt weathering before but I've never tried it myself.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2011 19:47
|
|
|
Confirming that Testors is poo poo. I can still remember how amazed I was the first time I unboxed an Hasegawa kit. I had no idea such detail was even possible, and it's worth every penny.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 26, 2011 04:40
|
|
|
Working on something that I'm really excited about. When I get it fully assembled I'll post a pic before prime/paint. http://www.amazon.com/1-4105-Battlestar-Galactica-BS-75/dp/B00398AE4C/ref=pd_bxgy_t_text_b The detail on it is very nice, and it's going together pretty well, too. It's a nice size, too...about a foot long, I guess? I'm planning to do some battle damage on the hull when I paint it.
|
|
#
¿
May 16, 2011 23:20
|
|
|
Jumpingmanjim posted:Isn't it recommended that you paint on the sprue then assemble it? Or am I thinking of another Galactica model? They can say whatever the gently caress they want, but I'm not going to paint parts on sprues. Bear in mind that these instructions are coming from people who put lovely adhesive decals-stickers, really-in the package. The plastic is good quality but I won't be using those.
|
|
#
¿
May 19, 2011 17:58
|
|
|
Jumpingmanjim posted:Rejoice, for the Bin Laden Raid cash ins have just started arriving What is this "stealth helicopter" bullshit? That's not a real bird, is it?
|
|
#
¿
May 25, 2011 17:19
|
|
|
Midjack posted:I'm remembering all the Stealth Fighter and Stealth Bomber models we had in the mid-80s and I'm sure we'll see the same stuff here. Dragon had the first good models of both if I remember right, that 1/144 two-pack. Yeah, and the "Project Aurora" ones from more recent times. To be honest, I think the F-117 looks even weirder than the fake ones. It's a very strange-looking plane.
|
|
#
¿
May 27, 2011 19:31
|
|
|
That is an excellent tank. Great work on the weathering. Work, marriage (newlywed), and various other things have kept me from modeling lately but I'm hoping to get back to my Galactica model and have something to post soon.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 23, 2011 12:59
|
|
|
Very nice weathering and such on that Ma.K model. I'm also a huge Wallace & Gromit fan so the sheep is awesome. 
|
|
#
¿
Jul 8, 2011 16:01
|
|
|
TaurusOxford posted:Oh, sorry about that. Thanks for the link. I do some Gundam and I use these for lining: http://www.sakuraofamerica.com/Pen-Archival My only comment is that they don't always give you a very dark black against lighter colored plastics, so you might have to go over the lines more than once. As far as paints are concerned, Gundam models are generally polystyrene just like regular models, and so basically any model paints are going to work just fine. As with any plastic models it's a good idea to wash your parts and prime before painting.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 4, 2011 17:51
|
|
|
This is why the kits from Dragon and such with turned aluminum barrels are so superior. I can't believe they would even make something like that in two pieces.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 17, 2011 14:13
|
|
|
Tamiya is hit or miss in my experience. Their newer kits are generally very good but some of the older ones that haven't been updated are honestly crap. Then again, I'm talking about aircraft here because that's what I do. It's a shame Hasegawa doesn't do armor (except for MK), because in my opinion they have the best detailing and engineering on the market.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 26, 2011 17:41
|
|
|
Nebakenezzer posted:As someone who likes the 1/72 scale in armor I'm going to try some of Hasegawa's kits soon. I'm building my first dragon kit (Challenger 2 Iraq) right now; aside from a few mistakes (like leaving out the headlights) it's quite impressive. It's quite a change from the WW2 stuff I've built so far. Hasegawa makes absolutely fantastic 1/72 airplanes. So, you could get something from the same time period as one of your armor pieces and set it down next to it, since it would be in the same scale! Maybe even make a little diorama? 
|
|
#
¿
Aug 28, 2011 14:54
|
|
|
The Finemolds Star Wars products really are nice. I like the stands they include with them, too.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 17, 2011 21:32
|
|
|
Uh. A diorama of a railway car being unloaded at a concentration camp? Seriously? That's rather disturbing.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 30, 2011 02:17
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 24, 2024 05:41 |
|
|
Ahhh, weird German planes. Not to mention the stuff they had on the drawing boards that never even got made, good lord. (http://www.luft46.com) Also, Morgenthau that Bf-109 is the poo poo. Right on!
|
|
#
¿
Oct 18, 2011 00:58
|
|