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Dischorr_N posted:Cat wants my blood. Don't pick it up. Ever. Both my cats had severe issues with being picked up that it took months to train out of. Tummy rubs can also be a big no-no if the cat doesn't trust you yet. It's been too short a time for that trust. Tummies are vulnerable and must be respected. Yelling is actually not a bad thing, make sure when you get nipped it's the same yelp, high pitched if you can do it. It just reinforces that biting isn't OK. For his mood, watch the ears and tail. Fast twitchy tail means excited. Excited cats get bitey. Ears forward is good (but can still be over excited and bitey.) Ears back, or worse flat to the skull, mean back away and come back later. Noises should be real obvious. Purring is good, but again over excited can lead to violence! I've seen my cat get so happy she rabbit kicks herself in the head. Cats are weird. Meow is fine, mew is fine. Trilling (my cat rolls her r's at me,) is fine. Every cat has a "Do not gently caress with" noise though, a low nrrrrrow that sounds like that stock alley cat noise, usually accompanied by a low growl. The meowraowraow/hiss combo is also bad. Max when I first got her was a biter and would get SO excited when I pet her more than 2 strokes that she'd latch onto my arm and claw me up. Lots of reinforcement and sweater with thick sleeves helped me train her out of it. There's also a place in the cat's mouth behind the front teeth you can get your finger in that he can't bite down on, if he happens to get your fingers. That spot saved me a lot of bandaids.
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Oct 23, 2010 12:09
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Eggplant Wizard posted:Having two cats feels less crowded than having one. I say this because when my cat was alone, he'd bother me a lot, meowing constantly. He was bored and lonely. Now he has a buddy, and when they're not asleep, and it's not mealtime, they pretty much spend all their time hanging out with one another instead of in my face. I still get petting times though Pretty much this. I got Max solo because the roommate had a cat so we had 2 in the house. Us owners still got tons of attention, but if we had work to do the cats were fine by themselves. Once we moved out poor Max went nuts and had to be in my lap or on my shoulder or climbing on my keyboard every waking moment. So I went and got another cat. They love each other and I can do my work again. Something I think is funny is how much Max mellowed over time. She was "roughly a year" when I got her from the pound, and she was quite the rear end in a top hat kitten still even if she looked like an adult. She's calmed down so much now you'd never believe it- but she's still got the same adorable attitude. Oh and Max came with me from AZ to NC and recently back again. 3 nights in hotels each way. She just slept the whole time thanks to the miracle of cat tranquilizers. Sam didn't even need them he just slept because he's a boring fatty.  If it's 18 months till your move I wouldn't wait that long. It does depend on the cat, of course. A high strung cat who hates cars will not enjoy a long trip and he will let you know!
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Nov 1, 2010 08:33
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McLibrarian posted:tl;dr: I've never owned a cat but I'm adopting my dying grandmothers bitchy, people-hating cats and moving them to my house. WTF am I getting myself into? Catproofing depends on the cat. Just put up things they can swallow and make sure nothing breakable is on a shelf they can knock off. Make sure poisons/cleaning supplies are secured. After that it comes down to watching what they get into (maybe nothing, if they're older and lazy lumps,) and dealing on a reactive basis. For moving as long as the drive is pretty short, just scruff/burrito them into a carrier and deal with the inevitable crying. Never let an animal out of the carrier in a car. My roomie's cat Kimi would SCREAM like she was being stabbed every minute she was in a car but give her a couple days at the new place and she'd be alright. My Sam is TERRIFIED of being picked up. He sinks full claws in and cries like you're gonna drop him off a bridge. The only way I can do it (to get him in a carrier) is back him in a corner, scruff him real good and tuck his back paws against my chest. I've slowly been teaching him its ok to be picked up, but it takes a long time. If you can bring anything soft things of your grandma's that smells like her it might make it easier for the kitties, especially the scared one. An old shirt or blanket- something they can snuggle up in.
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Nov 12, 2010 00:32
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Kimi's chirping would actually get birds to come to the window. She was quite good at it.
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Nov 14, 2010 11:57
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Max has a pink eye.  I can't get her into the vet for a few days. She's squinting and its pink and has a tiny bit of mucus. (She has tear-stains normally but I just wipe them off.) Online people are saying you can use a very gentle saline solution for some relief (1/4 teaspoon to cup of water.) This happened last spring and we got drops that cleared it up for her, I don't know what was in them though. Is saline ok as a stopgap until I can get her in? She just looks miserable with a puffy eye.
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Jan 4, 2011 22:32
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Max *loves* pudding. And ice cream. (Not chocolate obviously.) Might depend on the cat? This same cat will turn up her nose at like lunchmeat or anything human but tuna. I only let her lick a bit off my finger though so she gets a taste but no tummy issues. So is that "leave milk out for the cat" thing a myth?
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Jan 6, 2011 02:03
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As a cat owner with cat allergies... Keep some Zyrtec in the house so you don't die. (offbrand is fine. Ceterizine is I think the generic name.) And be prepared to spend your first hour of the day with tissues/coughing out crap. It isn't always easy, but then they do something cute and you don't mind. I have not built any tolerance and I've lived with mine for 2yrs. If it wasn't for the meds I wouldn't be able to do it (because I'd be in the hospital.) And be prepared to be called stupid by family. A lot. They like to call me early in the morning when I'm still wheezy and then get all worried. /sigh mistaya fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Jan 13, 2011 |
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Jan 13, 2011 16:17
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I put the cat tree/post next to something you DON'T want them scratching so they have something they'd rather scratch. Our couch is safe because the tree is right there. For litterbox, someplace on tile. Bathrooms, laundry rooms, whatever just someplace easy to clean that isn't carpet. "Breed" is kind of a misnomer with cats. Go to a shelter and find one you love, almost all shelter cats are domestic shorthair/longhair cats but you can find some really awesome coat patterns if you want a pretty cat, one of my cats has a siamese style mask/boots and she's just a normal shelter cat. Alternately, black cats often have trouble getting placed because people are superstitious morons, and personality trumps coat color every time. So don't count out the poor single color cats. If you ask for a bonded pair the shelter will probably love you, they have a lot of trouble placing them and often don't want to break them up. If you get 2 you shouldn't have much trouble with them keeping themselves amused when you're busy, and still love to play with you. But as a new cat owner, my biggest advice is be patient! Cats take a bit to get used to a new place, they might take 3-4 days to stop hiding and being scared. Just let them do their thing and don't be too pushy, even though it's hard. They'll come out when they're ready.
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Mar 7, 2011 18:45
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All the Petsmarts here have a section set aside for adoptables but they are from a local rescue. They are also double the adoption fee of the SPCA I went to, so you can definitely shop around. My local shelter does half-off (called "lonely hearts") any pet who's been there longer than 6months and any pet over 5yrs old to help place them. I'm not saying be cheap, but there's tons of kitties who need homes and you can always donate the difference. Mine came with a vet visit/preconditions (mites!) covered, all her shots/spay, and a microchip. And a bag of science diet (blech).
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Mar 8, 2011 01:24
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He might have been part of a feral colony, they mark them with ear tattoos or nick the ear to show he's been neutered. It can take a few days for a cat to feel comfy enough to wander out of a small hiding place in a new home, give him time and some pets and let him check everything out on his own. He'll be fine. 
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Mar 16, 2011 09:10
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Boywhiz88 posted:So, I recently adopted a kitten?/cat? from the Humane Society in my area. The kitty has been great! He's very friendly and just a great time to be around BUT there's just one thing...my allergies are going crazy. Zyrtec all day every day. (It's Ceterizine if you want the generic, I use Wal-Zyr with no problems.) Other than that, my main advice is 1- no cat on the bed, 2- wash your hands if you pet the cat/before eating and 3- do not touch your face. Oh and 4- if you cuddle the cat change your shirt. The things I do to love animals that are toxic to me. It does get better with time, I went from "well zyrtec lasts maybe 12 of the 24 hours it's supposed to" to a comfy one a day. I still get wheezy when I pet cats that are not my cats but mine can sit on my head and I'll be ok after a shower. Also your cat is in great danger of exploding if we don't see pics.
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Mar 24, 2011 15:50
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Well, if you're going to adopt a special needs animal you probably should put a decent amount aside (or at least have the option of a credit card.) E-vet visits can run a couple hundred to a couple thousand. I don't think saving 2k before you get a cat is really necessary, but just be aware things can go south in a hurry. Food wise I get a big bag of Blue Buffalo and a tub of tidy cats once a month and that covers 2 cats. I think they're about 25-35$ a month each, for food and litter. This will vary based on what food and litter you get, of course. If she can't climb a tree she will still need scratchers, there's a bunch of flat and inclined types that would be fine. I would baby gate stairs if she can't handle them, but that's going to depend on her. Cats LOOOOVE boxes though, making a ground level Cat Fort would be fine. Hell I do that for my spoiled kitties and they have legs!
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Mar 24, 2011 20:22
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Monthly upkeep for me runs between 25-35 dollars per cat. That's basic food/litter and a bag of treats per month. Minimum vet care is probably just their yearly checkup/rabies shot which shouldn't go over 100$, unless someone gets sick/fleas/crystals where you're looking at a lot more. I think my cats would murder me in my sleep if I took them to a groomer, they're self sufficient for the most part. I give em a bath once or twice a year if they look shabby. Frequent brushing is of course mandatory if you don't want hair on literally everything in your house but that's free after you buy the brush. (Plugging the Zoom Groom here, it is the best thing ever.)
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Mar 29, 2011 23:12
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Mighty Amoeba posted:Yes! I just bought this exact same model. Lucy won't go onto the top tier unless I put her there though. Second to top is the sweet spot, apparently. I have the same one, although it's not white anymore thanks to a black fuzzball shedding all over it. It's a really nice tree. Max gets the top spot and Sam always lays on the second ledge.
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Apr 23, 2011 05:38
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Kerfuffle posted:Cats and dogs don't get watery eyes and sneeze from allergens like people. They itch. Your cat is sick, not suffering from allergies. Don't go to that vet you called. Daily doses of benadryl aren't even safe for people let alone cats.  I took my cat in for a runny eye issue that started up when we moved from AZ to NC. She was fine till Pollen season. The vet said her eyes were irritated from allergies and gave me drops, and they kept her eyes clear until Pollen season ended, at which point she stopped having teary eyes.She didn't have a kitty cold (I've seen her have one of those, this was different.)
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Apr 24, 2011 05:46
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RE: Cats and Cars- I have moved across the country with cats (2300 miles one way) twice. If it's less than a day's drive just put it in the carrier and don't take it out till you get there. Max and Sam were fine for 3 days of 12-18hr drives. Do not let a loose animal in your car for any reason it is a serious hazard to the animal and yourself. Yeah some cats are chill enough to not freak but what happens when someone rear ends you and he isn't secured? What happens if something scares him and he wedges himself under your pedals and you can't stop the car? Cats are perfectly capable of holding it for a day, give them a full bowl of food/water and a box when you get where you're going- not in the car.
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Apr 29, 2011 13:58
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I need a new litterbox goons. I have 2 cats and they share a single large box (very small apartment. They've never had issues with going elsewhere.) I need something covered because the box is in a fairly high traffic area and Sam has the habit of peeing over the side (And the back of the box is high-sided so I have no idea how he does that. They're both fixed of course.) It's on tile so nothing's been permanently damaged by this, but I sure would like to keep the pee in the box. I liked the look of the dome-type but Sam is a big kitty and nothing of that type at Petsmart looked big enough to me. The larger covered ones looked really flimsy, and I want something that will last.
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Sep 13, 2011 23:56
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Flea meds usually take 2 waves I think? It kills the live ones right away, but it can't kill the eggs. When the eggs hatch you get a second wave but those ones won't be able to lay eggs so that's the end of it. I know this was last page but I've used the no plug, no heat air fresheners you can find at Walmart for like 5-7 bucks for months. You can pick one up and throw it and it won't spill or break, so it's about as safe as an air freshener can get. I just put it on a shelf near the litter box, my cats have no interest in it. (I use the non-smell one.)
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Dec 15, 2011 12:27
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Max took 5-6 months to be ok with just being picked up (I figure it is a good thing to have a cat that doesn't freak out when picked up, and it makes sticking her in the carrier easy.) Nowadays (3yrs later) she's so chill I can baby-cuddle and rasberry her belly and she just gives me this nonplussed look like: "Are you done? Good." Sam is still a work in progress. He's to the point where he doesn't cry and try to escape when held normally (I never baby-hold Sam, he's still scared of just a normal hold.) but his back paws just splay straight out when you pick him up so it's hard to get him comfortable on your arm. He's getting better about it though. I don't think he'll ever like it, but I'd settle for tolerate without fear.
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Dec 16, 2011 16:14
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My cat gets a puffy eye every once in a while due to allergies (she starts squinting and it gets leaky.) Our vet examined it and pretty much told us it was inflamed but not infected, and gave us eyedrops to keep it flushed out. The drops helped a lot, and after the pine trees stopped making GBS threads pollen the issue went away. I can tell it bothers her/itches because she rubs on it with her paw and rubs her face on literally anything to scratch it when it comes up. Sounds very similar to what your cat has.
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Mar 28, 2012 10:54
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The thing to remember when teaching kitten not to bite is: Hands are not toys. Never use your hand as a toy. Toys are something kitten is allowed to maul, and if you use your hand like a toy, it's teaching kitten it's perfectly cool to maul your hand. Which is not good when kitten becomes cat and can start drawing blood. You should be able to tell when your cat is about to go t-rex by watching the ears, eyes, and tail. Rapid tail swish means psycho cat imminent. So don't pet right then, or distract her with something to get her out of that mood before petting. Never go for a belly rub on an excited cat. They don't have to be angry or upset, but the high-alert cat is going to happily chomp on anything that gets too close to its mouth. I learned, when teaching my shelter cat not to bite, that there's a spot in the mouth behind the fangs where your finger is actually safe (all gums) and it confused the hell out of the cat. It took a couple months but she did learn, and she's never been bitey to people since. I would warn that if you think another kitten would help be sure to get one that isn't timid. Max really beat up on her poor first housemate, because she wouldn't defend herself and ended up with some pretty bad bites we had to see the vet over. When we went to get our second cat (ms. timid was a roommate's, who moved out) we made sure to get one who could handle living with Max's agressiveness. Sam's worked out perfectly because 1) he's bigger, by half and 2) he doesn't just let her beat him up. He never instigates anything, but he doesn't just take it.They DO learn from each other though. It's very funny when you notice little things one picks up from the other. Feliway varies from cat to cat. I noticed a big drop in my agressive cat's behavior when we started using it, but after it ran out we didn't replace it and the good behavior stuck. It's basically a scent marker that says "Cat feels safe." so how much your cat responds to that marker is kind of up to it. I think it's very good for getting over humps like introductions, but after the cat feels safe on its own the need lessens. Or your cat could just be a high strung little thing and always benefit from it.
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Jun 6, 2012 14:10
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Karl Sharks posted:- Name - Raven; Diego Honestly it sounds like they're doing fine and you're being overly worried. (But feliway can help a stressed out cat, so if you have the money it's always a good idea.) They aren't going to best friends overnight, and some hissing and swatting is normal. If you can have both of them on the same piece of furniture with no angry-cat then you're doing great! Don't force them together, and don't put one in a carrier while the other one is outside because that just makes the one in the carrier feel trapped and afraid. I'd keep supervising them for a while, but if Diego approaches Raven and gets growled/hissed/swatted at- that's ok. That's normal. What you need to watch for is if she decides to pin him and start biting. Or if he ever makes a high pitched squeak and she doesn't let him go right away (this is unmistakable, it's the kitty version of "Too rough!") But yeah, two cats on the same couch not growling at each other means they are well on their way. Just keep your expectations realistic. Raven may never be best buddies with Diego, and they may never groom each other or sleep in a pile. But they sound like they're happy enough to co-exist and that's all you can ask of them. And they might surprise you if you give it time.
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Jun 19, 2012 08:00
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Drink and Fight posted:Yeah, cats don't wag. If the tail starts twitching violently, or thrashing, or thumping against the floor, watch your hands. This. Your cat is letting you know he's too stimulated. Even though he's purring and enjoying it, if you ignore the tail twitch you're going to get bit.
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Aug 17, 2012 02:21
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Blinks posted:http://youtu.be/d47mQIXr7J0 (apologies for the camera work, it's pretty tough to get a decent angle) Looks like going for his back/rear is what's tipping him off. Keep the pets up on his head, and he might be fine with it? But that tail is sending clear signals whenever you pet his rump. You did exactly the right thing in that video though. After his tail started going you stopped petting... and he calmed right back down.
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Aug 18, 2012 22:37
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Pretty much every cat loves ear scritches. Are you sure this is abnormal? Question PI: My black cat Sam has pretty terrible dandruff and it makes people not want to pet him, which is a problem since he LOVES people and throws himself laps. I don't think it's the food (Blue Buffalo) or the litter, which have been consistent and predate the flakes. But we really don't have anything for him to be allergic to that I can find. It's been going on for a months now, and I know he's itchy. It just shows up really nasty on his fur. He does Not Like Baths, and he's only had one since it started (it didn't help the issue at all.) What do I do?
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Sep 17, 2012 14:52
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Duckie posted:I've heard that if your air is really dry, that a humidifier will help. I've also heard that you can add in a bit of fish oil to their food to help their coats as well(this is just something I have heard in passing, so you would need to do more research). That could be it. We brought him from native NC to AZ, and it is (ho ho) a dry heat. My native AZ cat doesn't give a poo poo of course. I have a humidifier, I'll see if that helps him any.
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Sep 19, 2012 12:10
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jemsy posted:Noah came home!  Yaaay!Shifty Pony: You have a cat. It sounds like a happy well adjusted lazy bum. One of mine is like that, he like to watch the lazer and the bird but he isn't really chasing them. I ended up getting a ball-in-a-circle track toy and it's the only thing I've actually seen him play with, YMMV. He's mostly happy just snuggling or sitting somewhere high up. Also an adult cat may just be more mellow than the kittens a lot of people in PI have an talk about. Max's energy level plummeted over the four years I've had her. She used to pounce on everything that twitched. Now she will go for toys and playtime but otherwise she's mostly a happy lump.
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Sep 30, 2012 15:40
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Are there any goon-approved cat tree manufacturers out there besides Armarkat? I've had two of their trees so far over 5-6 yrs and while I liked the trees the top perch always gets loose and they only have cream colored available in most models, which having a black cat it just gets very gross looking when he sheds on it. Part of the answer is "Brush you cat more" I'm sure, but I'd like to get something sturdy with more variety in colors, and I don't like fleece.
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Apr 12, 2016 22:45
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Wet food is a good way to hydrate kitty if you need to. Bust open a can and treat him.
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Aug 19, 2016 22:27
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The Lobster posted:It's been six months, though, you'd think she'd be used to me coming up to her by now. No matter how low and slow I go (and I mean literally slithering on the ground) she refuses to be touched outside of my room. It's possible she's just Being A Cat (TM) since, as I said, she was previously feral. She and her sister have come a remarkably long way regardless from spending their first three months with no human interaction in a tiny cage. This is something I saw on My Cat From Hell so take it with a grain of salt (though that program is usually decent) but your cat may not really consider other rooms in your home to be her territory if she's acting very skittish in them. Is she hugging the walls and staying small in those rooms, or is it just YOU triggering the fear response? Regardless, if you can get her to "hunt" some toys in there she'll start seeing the place as hers and might become more confident, same with treats or other food.
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Jan 12, 2017 20:35
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The Lobster posted:How do I get her to hunt, etc.? We have a bimonthly subscription to Kitnip Box and they love the toys and treats therein so we have a pretty good selection of different toys to try. Just play with her! Drag string toys or laser pointer or whatever she's into in the area where she's skittish and she should come around. Basically it makes the place HER place, where she can get all focused and maximum CAT. Feliway wall plug-ins are also a really good tool for nervous kitties if you haven't looked into it.
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Jan 13, 2017 19:57
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I have a question about spraying, actually. Neither of my cats (neutered male/spayed female) ever did this in any of the apartments we lived in, but while we're staying with my husband's parents they've both decided they need to mark all the furniture, and it's going to cause a row in the house if i can't get it under control. It isn't just pissing, it's backing the rear end up and marking specific places. I know outdoor cats do this to mark territory but I don't know how to discourage it now when it has NEVER been a problem before and the only time either of them peed outside the box was when they were very ill. (They are not ill.) Other cats lived here once upon a time but not for a few years. So I don't know if they're finding old scent spots or what. I've tried Nature's Miracle as best I can but when a cat backs up underneath a recliner's footrest and just lets it go it's... really hard to make sure you got everything.
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Jan 22, 2017 10:16
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One of mine will go into an empty bathroom when the house is quiet and meow at the top of his lungs because he likes how it echoes. Cats, man. Some people are chatty, some cats are chatty. It's just her personality. And yes, some cats are also quiet around strangers or in new situations, but when they settle in they get noisy as hell around their family. Again like people.
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Feb 4, 2017 02:11
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Feliway is a godsend for cats who aren't quite getting along, it's a wall plug in that sends happytime cat pheromones to calm down the grumpy one. If she's annoyed at Kirby (Nice catname+avatar combo) then make sure you aren't petting her when you're covered in Kirby-scent, like directly after petting him. It sounds stupid but you may want to wash your hands before trying to pet her and see if that helps with the growling. It may not but it did when I had a very grumpy kitty who didn't like a new guy, until they got used to each other. They may never become best buddies but they'll sort it out and one day three years later you'll see them on the same bed sleeping and go O-M-G COEXISTENCE.
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Feb 8, 2017 13:18
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OniKun posted:The only issue we have is that while he is getting pet and completely content, he'll sometimes flip over, bite your hand lightly, and do the bunny kick on your arm. He'll stop if you pull away, and doesn't try to latch on or anything. I feel like he's not necessarily being aggressive, but it's still a little scary only because I know he could eviscerate the hell out of my arm if he felt like it. We immediately stop giving him attention if he bites/nibbles/scratches at all, but he still keeps doing the bunny kick. This is just normal behavior, honestly. When they get overstimulated they want to wrassel. If you watch the tail you can usually see when this is gonna happen. Basically just do what you're doing and back off when he gets too excited, and you'll be fine. Otherwise yeah, a stuffed toy or a cloth rag (NEVER YOUR HANDS) is a good distraction for kitty to tear into. In my experience this is something younger cats do a lot more often. Older cats will still do it but it takes a lot longer to get them over the threshold, or they only have certain spots (like trying for a tummy rub) that will trigger it. It's not aggression so don't be worried about it. I have a specific phrase "Be nice!!" whenever my cats get too bitey/scratchy and they learned that meant to chill out, over time. He could eviscerate your arm but he won't, because he wuvs you. Just play it how you're playing it and everything will be fine.
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Feb 14, 2017 13:42
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Yay for Peridot! I'd been rooting for you/her.
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Feb 15, 2017 16:31
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I think my best advice to new catte owners is let your kitty settle in at his own pace. You're super excited and happy to meet him, but for him, he's just been taken from everyone he knows and dropped into an all new territory that he doesn't know anything about! It's scary! So let him hide a little, let him sneak around and introduce himself to the house. Make sure he knows where his food and litter are at, and let him come to you. It might take a few days, during which you will want to explode, but he'll be a lot happier and less stressed. Some kitties are super adaptable and will be fine in a few hours, some take a lot longer, so just pay attention and give him the time he needs.
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Feb 21, 2017 17:26
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You shouldn't LIFT an adult cat by their scruff. But 'scruffing' (which is just grabbing the loose skin on the back of the neck) generally puts them into a "Mama cat is carrying me" mode and makes them a bit easier to handle if you're supporting their weight with your other arm. It's good to settle a cat who hates being carried if you need to carry them for some reason. That said you don't want to scruff a cat to trim the nails you want a cat-burrito. There's lots of youtube videos on how to do this but basically get a bath towel-> roll cat in towel -> fetch one paw out at a time. Kitty will only hate you for a little while after, I promise. It's good to associate treats with things like nail clipping or medicine taking, so always treat them after putting them through the misery, a food motivated cat will put up with a lot if they know there's greenies on the other side.
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Feb 24, 2017 02:06
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I had to give Sam fluids (just saline to make sure he was hydrated) after his first bout with crystals, he didn't like setting up but he was very calm throughout and very lovey-dovey for pets afterwards. Also he wobbled like a fuzzy football because his shoulders were all poofed out. It was probably more upsetting for me having to poke him than him to get poked.
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Mar 11, 2017 20:35
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| # ¿ Apr 19, 2024 11:44 |
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Basically you want to ask about temperament more than sex to find your cat a buddy. Like, try to find a cat with a similar energy level so they can either play together or chill out together. If your cat is kind of nervous, find one that's calm and friendly and mid-low energy so they get along well.
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Mar 29, 2017 01:06
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