Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Musket
Mar 19, 2008
Seriously, USE YOUR drat METER instead of trying to guess exposure. It will in time teach you to read light better.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Miso Beno posted:

So I bought some rad 10x10 gel filters from the Dorkroom Marketplace for my Alien Bee lights and I just wanted to know if there's a better way to hold them in place than some clamps and scotch tape?

http://www.paulcbuff.com/litemod.php

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Shmoogy posted:

f/2.8 1/4000 errday

e: Do you guys really calculate EV in your head? I just set to whatever aperture, or shutter speed I want at ISO 400 and go from there.

Actually the rule is f/1.8 1/8000 of a second. Any slower and you need to upgrade your camera or just bump your iso to 3200 on a sunny day to get the max shutter speed. (THIS IS AWFUL ADVICE AND A JOKE new photogs)

I can guess EV pretty good, but the meter is better at it than I am.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

XTimmy posted:

So I've come into possession of a Metz 45CT3 flash with a SCA300 handle attachment. I'm wanting to see if I can hook this up to my 5dmk2 with TTL or AE1 with PC Sync but my research has not been going well, Metz's part numbering system is quite complex and convoluted. Does anyone here know anything about these systems?

Should be the right set of instructions... Couldnt find a 45CT3 manual, just the 4.

http://www.metzflash.co.uk/pdffiles/45CL4_e.pdf

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Bioshuffle posted:

How weather proof is the D7000 with the 18-200 vr ii and 35mm 1.8G lens? I'm going yo shoot a music festival with a rain forecast. I'm going to buy a shower cap and get a sturdy rubberband to enclose the camera. Are there any other precautions I should take? I've seen videos on YouTube of people soaking their camera with a shower head (D7000) but their lens was weather sealed as well. Any tips for shooting in the rain?

Dont submerse it. You can go out in light to moderate rain with your D7000 and 18-200/35mm lens.

One thing ive seen people use is a Lance Armstrong bracelet around lens where it butts up against the mounting plate on the camera. You can get Optech rain coats for less than 10bux if you really want to not trust Nikon Engineering.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

uwaeve posted:

Is the weatherproofing on the D90 significantly worse than the D7000, or does basically the same advice apply?

The D90 is missing most of the sealing that the D7000 has. The D7000 is mostly weather sealed but not as much as the next tier of bodies are.

D90 good for a small bit of rain, D7000 good for a good downpour, D700 can last in a hurricane.

I would 100% buy Optech rain coat for a D90 before i would worry about buying them for a D7000.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008
You will get hot pixels if you go pretty long, but you can edit those out pretty easy. Ive taken 5min exposures before without worry of the sensor heat, i just had to do a bit of cleaning in post.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

the posted:

I could do a live photo session with a model

If you do this, ill stop trolling you :toxx: (no i wont) 10bux says the model runs away terrified :snoop:

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

404notfound posted:

Is it normal to have to fine-tune the autofocus on lenses? I got a 35mm f/1.8 for my D7000, but noticed that live view images were coming up much more crisp than when I use the viewfinder. I tweaked the fine-tune for a while and ended up at -20 and it finally seems comparable with live view, but the fact that I had to jam it all the way to the end concerns me. I don't think I've had the same issue with my Tamron 17-50 f/2.8.

Liveview uses a different AF cam (contrast, which doesnt require calibration) than the viewfinder (phase, which can fall out of calibration). It can be normal with a lot of third party lenses especially sigma and the 30mm 1.4. You may want to talk to Nikon about this. Check to make sure your D7000 Firmware is the latest before you call Nikon CS.

Its possible the lens itself is fine (conclusion made that if you get great AF in liveview that its the camera body itself having issues with its phase AF system, not an actual lens issue). If you have a buddy with a Nikon camera, test it out. Might be your D7000 needs service.

Musket fucked around with this message at 15:28 on Mar 28, 2013

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Lukano posted:

I have a bit of a shot in the dark question, not even sure this is the right place to ask...

I had a storage failure yesterday, that I managed to mostly recover from. I thought most of the family Photos (~140gigs worth) were still intact and whole, but upon further examination it appears that while most of them appear fine when previewed in thumbnail form - when opened consist of just the color gray from the bottom up, anywhere from 10% - 90% of the image.

My first thought was that I was completely and totally hosed, and the vast majority of the family photos from the past ~4 years are toast. Then I got to wondering why the previews/thumbnails still look ok, but the full images do not.

Is there a chance that there's some minor level of corruption in the jpg's themselves that can be repaired?

edit - and no, before anyone asks, there's no backups of these now :(

The short answer: you're hosed

The long answer: pay for recovery. My quote on 2 1TB WD drives was 635photobux. Each.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

SoundMonkey posted:

...and off-site/cloud is so cheap these days that there's really no reason not to go that way.

but... I heard that amazon might lose 1 file out of 100000k of them... AND ITS COLD STORAGE SO I GOTTA WAIT FOR ALL 745TBs of my images before i can look at the only image i was missing. THIS BACK UP IS OVER.


I just signed up for this amazon back up. Now to find how to back up my drat photos. Any good M$ clients that work with glacier/S3?

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Nameless Dread posted:

The internet is the loving library. Obviously i'm just looking for newer and less famous stuff, to use their styles as a crutch.

Follow Miley Cyrus on tumblr and instagram :snoop:

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Ropes4u posted:

Wait a few years and her parents will turn her to porn to squeeze the last nickel from her life.

Im pretty sure she will come about this life choice on her own.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

8th-samurai posted:

Oh, I don't know. She seems like she has a good head on her should.......
http://vimeo.com/62555281
:catstare:


(:nws: if your job is like as a pope or something)

I follow her on the twitter, saw that awhile back. :art:

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Reichstag posted:

Yeah, that would be a good thread to make, we don't seem to talk about prints or presentation enough.

Thats probably because few of us actually have work worth printing.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008
Gonna start gifting out catte pics framed and matted. Should i use Matte paper or glossy?

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Martytoof posted:

Yeah don't get me wrong, that's still a lot of photos and a pain in the dick to go through in Lightroom, but 100GB is much more reasonable ;)

Hell, maybe the dude filled a few 64GB cards. I probably would too if I had an awesome camera and an amazing thing to photograph.

TBF the D800 file sizes are fuckoff large.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008
I would do as ExecuDork advised and ask why your work was edited from its original content.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Whitezombi posted:

Anyone using a Microsoft Surface Pro to run Lightroom and Photoshop?

Use a real computer.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

XTimmy posted:

Saved me $20, thanks. Any recommendations for someone who's trying to step up their game as a professional.

Practice.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

casa de mi padre posted:

If you only shoot in RAW, how feasible is it to get one of those wifi SD cards and upload everything to a tablet as you shoot? Sometimes I take pictures of people and they want to look at them and it would be nice if I could just hand them my tablet.

It depends on what your cameras file size is for RAW and your eyefi cards transfer speeds over wifi.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Mr. Despair posted:

Yeah, I wouldn't recommend cotton swabs, seems way too easy for stuff to come off and get left on the sensor. Pec-pads are cheap though, and they are what's on the sensor swabs, should work fine if you get a nice sensor sized stick to wrap them around.

What Mr. Despair said. Also how the hell is your sensor getting so dirty that you need to clean it so often that its cost is a concern?

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

evil_bunnY posted:

I have an early D800 and I cleaned it twice. There's no dust I can detect. I mean yes I shoot a 50mm 90% of the time so it's not like dust ingress is a huge potential issue, but on my previous body where I changed lenses 20 times a week it was still fine with maybe a cleaning a year.

My D700 went about 20k of shots before I even noticed any dust at f/16 with constant lens changes.

Turn your cameras upside down people while changing lenses, it does actually help.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

ExecuDork posted:

Uh... upload, edit, and replace photos in my account? WTF?

To be fair, they would replace your photos with actual good photos, sooo.... :snoop:

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Combat Pretzel posted:

My sister's bugging me to shoot her wedding. I've never done something like that. I'll be doing head+torso and full body shots, so I should be mostly OK with 50mm on fullframe? Since my sister does photography, too, and herself likes the snapshot kind of composition, I guess it should fit? --edit: For that matter, the church itself doesn't lend itself much space for compositing with longer lenses.

(Unless my old crop body's gone on eBay by then, I'll be having it with a 18-50mm/2.8 for backup, giving me better portraiting capability, if needed.)

I regret being talked into doing the wedding photos for my best friends wedding. You miss most of the wedding. You spend more time trying to ensure they dont hate you for the next 50+ years for producing horrible images, that you literally miss the wedding while being at the wedding.

If you already notice you lack the tools to do the it properly, tell her. Be honest about lacking the tools.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Sludge Tank posted:

cokin vs lee filters

At the moment I have a cokin P-series filter bracket and 2 filters (3 stop GND and 4 stop ND)

I am using it mostly on my 24mm prime, which has a 77mm filter thread.. The edges of the cokin bracket show up in the outside corners of each photo which I then have to crop out much to my annoyance.

Will the LEE filter bracket be more appropriate for this? Do they have a special bracket that won't show up in the corners? According to their page their And will I be able to use my existing cokin filters in the LEE bracket? Or, if the existing filters wont fit, would I be better off switching to LEE now before I spend more money on cokin stuff (been reading of inferior quality of cokin stuff especially with IR problems etc)

I think the advantage of the LEE system is you can remove soem of the filter slots if you are not using them, which I'm thinking would remove them from the edges of the frame?

Errrrr thanks in advance for any help

Cokin Z Holder is for UWA lenses and you can by an adapter to use your P filters in it. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/cokin/Ntt/cokin+z_p+adapter/N/0

http://www.cokin-filters.com/creative-system/z-pro-series/

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

xenilk posted:

For the sake of argumentation I find that arguments like that are always thrown left and right and don't quite make sense with what we're discussing. All I'm saying is if you know the strength and weaknesses of what you're using it doesn't quite matter and you'll still get great results.

Saying you should only use the top of the line items to accomplish a task simply because the rest is obsolete is quite the statement.

For teh sake of counter argument, why limit your tool set for SOMEONE ELSES Wedding and think its "fine". Maybe I just feel that its best when talking about an event you cannot re-shoot, to come at it with every tool available to you other than just what you have on hand and calling it good when its clearly not going to cut it.

Sure you CAN work with just one focal length, but if you could possibly rent or borrow other lenses why limit yourself. Especially for someones wedding. At that point you are going to have a ton of work, to work with the limit of just one FoV.

Its not an argument of top of the line gear, its an argument of Dont show up to a gun fight with a letter opener.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

SoundMonkey posted:

I have a canon Selphy 900something and god it owns so hard. 32 seconds from the paper going in to finished print.

It prints that fast because its ashamed of your photos. (its a good printer)

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Sovi3t posted:

Well, alright. But how about when it comes to assembling portfolios? I've narrowed it down some, but I have around 12 lovely ones.

12 lovely ones is better than 0 great ones.

As you mature into your style, you start to shoot for you and give little care about others photopinions. Keep shooting, and eventually you find what works for you.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

8th-samurai posted:

I think Tumblr is silly, I don't really use it much, and I constantly forget mine even exists. So my Tumblr would look pretty out of place on my portfolio.

Tumblr is only silly if you follow stupid and silly people. Tumblr is a great if you dont follow any one crazy. Not every tumblr is linked to Star Trek furry fanfic (besides yours. I found yours. You should be ashamed).

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

xcore posted:

I don't even have a camera yet but I have been reading a few threads in this forum for a month or two. Not sure if this is the right thread but here goes.

What are people doing about the new photoshop release? I assume there are a lot of people in Dorkroom that use it. Are you just going to stick with old CS4/5/6 or move the new program?

I gotta say, this seems stupid expensive for someone that isn't a professional photgrapher. Surely the hobbyists around here that love photgraphy but just do it when they travel or half a dozen photgraphy outings throughout the year aren't going to want to fork out $240 a year for photoshop?

We dont worry about editing software because only real photographers shoot film and get it right the first time.

(We "borrow" lightroom) Some cameras come with their own raw converters and you could shoot *GASP* Jpeg. I shoot jpeg, wanna fight about it?

What you miss by not updating it, is ACR which can read most RAW files. Adobe eventually cuts ACR off older versions.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008
Before I "found" a copy of CS6, i was using PS 7. I moved to Lightroom during LR2 days and have only really used PS/CS6 for pano merges and stacking images.

If Adobe moves to a rental agreement type poo poo with Lightroom, I will probably hunt around for something not Adobe. The only issue with that is giving up timely updates and good support for cameras. Adobe finally got the FUJI RAW file thing sorted out while other companies are on the cusp of giving up on working with Transx sensors.

DxO flat out refuses to do the math involved with it. I think currently the only other option for RAF conversion is Capture One. (Please dont recommend Silkypix, that makes babby jesus cry)

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

ExecuDork posted:

:hfive: I agree fully with both of these statements. I should probably improve my editing practice, and actually do more than levels/tone/noise reduction/crop, but for the extremely rare cases currently where I want to really dig into one image (stacking, panoramas), I use Gimp and spend as much time reading spergy help posts by those-who-wear-Unix-beards as I do making changes.

I upgraded my home computer to a nice Windows 7 desktop right around the time LR4 was released; the initial reviews of LR4 included lots of comments about running slowly, and one of the main reasons for my computer upgrade was to improve the speed of Lightroom - so I'm still running LR3.6. The only "support" I still need from Adobe is the automatic upgrade from 3.3 on the CDs I have, the next time I need to re-install LR or install it on a new computer such as my work laptop. Even that's not critical, 3.6 is better than 3.3 but only in a few fairly small ways.

Sooner or later The Bearded Ones will come out with something that is to Lightroom what Gimp is to Photoshop - it'll be objectively worse in every way except its price and the availability of tweaks, upgrades, and frothing-at-the-mouth quasi-academic discussions of minutiae.

Its already out, its poo poo. Its called Camera Bag 2 and suckers pay 10bux via steam for it.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008
I use gimp, explains why my images are all gimpy :smith:

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

ZippySLC posted:

Well, there's always the Picasa app, right? :v:

gently caress all these. Google + will AUTO HDR my photos and only show me what it thinks is good photos. It does all the thinking for you now.

It will also take your frowny face photos and reconstruct a smile.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

efcso posted:

It probably has nothing to do with things like the price of LR4 being $149 (downloaded) in the USA, but $187 in Australia - despite the relative currencies being at near-parity and the fact you're downloading it from the same server. It's even worse for the 'bigger' products.

The good-old Australia Tax is alive and well...

TBF your country used to be named SexCriminalBoat so thats why Adobe charges you heathens more. Heathens.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Combat Pretzel posted:

What's a good technique to make star trail exposures without warming the sensor too much? 30 seconds on, off?


Combat Pretzel posted:

Everyone's going like "waaah, hot pixels" all the time doing long and bulb exposures, so it's a valid question. Especially when I want to capture like a total of 30 minutes of light or something like that.

Ive done 27min exposure with the XE1 and no hot pixels or poo poo. Granted it took 45mins to process because i left NR on.

Shoot in 30second bursts and stack if its hot as gently caress outside. If you are not in shorts and a tank top takin pics heat shouldnt be a big issue and you could go 5mins per frame.

Most of the hotpixel problems are tied to terrible high iso noise as well. If your camera was made this recent gen, you should see lower high iso noise with less hot pixeling at long exposures.

If you are unsure, just shoot 10second bursts and hate your life.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Paragon8 posted:

I know it's tempting to blame poo poo photography on instagram but there's been terrible HDR and models gaussian blurred to look like underrated DC hero plastic man a lot longer than instagram's life.

Does Instagram have a HDR button? Im lazy and use VSCO then export to iphoto folder then import in instagram, and just upload without any filters.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

casa de mi padre posted:

Look at some good star trail pictures someone else made because the stars don't change so there's no need to photograph them again.

Pack it up boys, this guy is right.


"Stop taking photos, I already took all the good ones and have moved on to painting, you scrubs" HCB - 1998

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Mightaswell posted:

Fake Ken Rockwell is correct. But in addition to his post, you should know that the Pentax k5 uses the d7000 sensor in a weather sealed body.

They are the same wafer but far from being the same sensor. Nikon, unlike Pentax, has quality control.

:goonsay:

(Get an OMD or equiv)

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply