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Should I be thinning P3 metallics? I'm having trouble using metallic paint of any kind without them looking either globbed on or thin and splotchy on flat surfaces. Any tips on getting even coats?
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Nov 24, 2013 04:16
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InfiniteNoodles posted:Should I be thinning P3 metallics? I'm having trouble using metallic paint of any kind without them looking either globbed on or thin and splotchy on flat surfaces. Any tips on getting even coats? Vallejo are the best (E:Acryllic) metallics out there. They are also the most toxic so use separate paint water and if you are a brush licker - just don't do it. It'll give you serious health problems that take a LONG time to go away. Good for painting with, not good for absorbing into your body. E: clarification
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Nov 24, 2013 07:30
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How does a wet pallette work for thinning/dilluting paint? I'm thinking about switching, but I don't see how you can maintain a specific thickness of paint (for glaze/layering) on that semi-permeable paper?
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Nov 24, 2013 12:49
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HardCoil posted:How does a wet pallette work for thinning/dilluting paint? I'm thinking about switching, but I don't see how you can maintain a specific thickness of paint (for glaze/layering) on that semi-permeable paper? The pigments in the paint make the solution too thick to soak through the parchment paper. Alternatively, you could just spend $1 and get a small palette from an art store and use that. EDIT: I realize you're referring to the water in the sponge screwing up your paint consistency. I've never had a problem with that - I think the parchment reaches a certain saturation and it pretty much ends there. berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Nov 24, 2013 |
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Nov 24, 2013 15:47
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ineptmule posted:I hate hate hate how 40k Tau Missile Broadsides look with the dopey fist pods and want to convert them to look more like a mech warrior-ish shoulder-mount missile pod, probably replacing the arm and attaching at the shoulder joint - like a SM Dreadnought I guess. Well considering the original broadsides had the rails shoulder mounted, you'd basically just be swapping the initial look - missiles on top and rails in arms. I haven't seen it done but I think it'd be totally doable.
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Nov 24, 2013 16:10
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I finished my Tyberos last night and I am really happy with how he turned out.  I messed up his right eye, but I decided to just roll with it. I think I need to touch up the white on his face and he'll be perfect!
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Nov 24, 2013 16:35
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MisterG posted:Vallejo are the best (E:Acryllic) metallics out there. They are also the most toxic so use separate paint water and if you are a brush licker - just don't do it. It'll give you serious health problems that take a LONG time to go away. Good for painting with, not good for absorbing into your body. Wait what? I've been trying out VMA metallics because a bunch of goons obviously recommended them, but I never saw anything either in the recommendations or on the labeling about a hazard. The label tells me it conforms to D-4236 and that "no health labeling [is] required" and a quick google search tells me that D-4236 is the standard that would require them to state health dangers if there were any. Basically, can you refer to any sources that aren't quasiscientific paranoia on the level of "OH GOD THERE ARE TECHNICALLY MERCURY ATOMS IN THIS VACCINE  "? I'm not trying to call you out personally or anything; I obviously have a personal interest in knowing with some veracity.For the record, I don't lick my brushes ever, though I have been using my dishwasher to clean my palette. 
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Nov 24, 2013 18:31
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So I'm almost done with my November oath, but am having serious doubts about the windows. I want to have the windows obscured on the truck (I don't have a driver and ghost riding wasn't a thing in WWII), so I tried painting cardstock inserts with the same simple chrome effect I used on the headlights: It's more 1983 Omni magazine than what I was hoping for - any suggestions? I was thinking about putting dark tinted plastic behind the windows, but I think that could look even less period.
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Nov 24, 2013 18:59
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:I had this problem for ages. No matter how thin or think the wash I had the same problems. I almost gave up on oil washes until I was trying out some streak weathering and with some cheap oils and they were working perfectly. BULBASAUR posted:Here’s what I recently discovered- acrylic washes are a water resistant pigment mixed with lots of flow improver (lowers the surface tension), matte medium, and water. Well, oil washes need similar ingredients to get those properties. Update on this conversation about oil washes, from around 20 pages ago. I wandered into the local fine-art supply store and asked the people there a bunch of questions about oil paints. Basically, everything Bulbasaur posted was correct. If you thin your oil paint with too much OMS, the paint becomes too "lean" and the binder in the oil paint is no longer strong enough to keep the pigments together. The pigment instead balls up into little grains because the binder only has enough surface tension to hold little clumps, rather than long chains suspended in thinner. You need to add additional binder to the solution, much like you add Matte Medium to acrylics when thinning. The guy at the store recommended I use "Galkyd Lite", which is a thin Alkyd Medium. He said it has the shortest curing time (~24 hours) and thins well with OMS. He recommended a 1:1 mixture with OMS and Galkyd. It makes the oil very glossy...but I always pre-coat the model with gloss varnish so its not a big deal. I just tried it on the model I'm painting...seems to work well! I think I'll go for a 2:1 or 3:1 OMS:Galkyd mixture next time, to decrease the curing time more. I don't care about the actual time quite so much, but by staying relatively wet the wash tends to be affected by gravity more. E.g. when using 100% OMS, you can apply some and let it sit for a minute. Once the OMS evaporates your pigment stays put. With Galkyd mix, the pigment tends to slowly run in the direction of gravity, so previously darkened crevices are left without much pigment.
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Nov 24, 2013 19:09
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moths posted:So I'm almost done with my November oath, but am having serious doubts about the windows. I want to have the windows obscured on the truck (I don't have a driver and ghost riding wasn't a thing in WWII), so I tried painting cardstock inserts with the same simple chrome effect I used on the headlights: I suggest you leave it as is because it looks great. EDIT: painted up this lil' dude and think he came out well. The highlights on the knees and pants don't look as pronounced on the actual model, the photo makes them look very jarring.  Luebbi fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Nov 24, 2013 |
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Nov 24, 2013 19:15
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polyfractal posted:Update on this conversation about oil washes, from around 20 pages ago. I wandered into the local fine-art supply store and asked the people there a bunch of questions about oil paints. Basically, everything Bulbasaur posted was correct. This is why i love this thread.
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Nov 24, 2013 20:48
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JerryLee posted:Wait what? I've been trying out VMA metallics because a bunch of goons obviously recommended them, but I never saw anything either in the recommendations or on the labeling about a hazard. The label tells me it conforms to D-4236 and that "no health labeling [is] required" and a quick google search tells me that D-4236 is the standard that would require them to state health dangers if there were any. The way I understand it; warning labels are about a logical use of the product. Since they are not intended for ingestion they don't say "warning, this may affect your health". I'll try to find the forum threads about it. It could be that it's an e-mail warning from a mailing list; so I apologize for not adding the source to start. I'll add an edit to this if I don't find the source as well. Definitely wouldn't stop using the stuff as it was ingestion oriented. The only correlation I've got is that every cat that drank my paint rinse had liver problems & every cat that didn't did not have said liver problems. Obviously that is not scientific evidence and there could have been other causes/effects going on. For now, here is their page on their products safety: http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/security A page that did what appears to contain some of the research I was remembering: http://brokenzealot.blogspot.com/2012/01/paint-toxicity.html I'm still not finding the first time I found it, but will keep looking. E: Found one of the ones I'm remembering but it's not about the metallics. http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/28534-toxicity-of-vallejo-paints/ MisterG fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Nov 24, 2013 |
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Nov 24, 2013 22:40
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moths posted:I was thinking about putting dark tinted plastic behind the windows, but I think that could look even less period. What you have looks great and much more in-period than any of the gem-like or dark windows effects. The really insane thing to do would be to paint the truck interior on the cardstock and place it behind plastic/plexiglas windows... not that I'd do that.
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Nov 24, 2013 22:43
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Thanks for the detailed followup. I found some of those myself by Googling but I didn't find the brokenzealot blog on my own, and that was by far the best. As I said, I never lick my brushes, pretty much ever, so my only real concern is with my method of cleaning my palette in the dishwasher (which works a treat, by the way). You'd think that the process of spraying and rinsing all the dishes clean and having it all go out the drain would keep any toxic substances from making it into my system via the dishes, but I suppose just to be safe I could start handwashing my palette in Super Clean instead. Also, I might take his advice about changing rinsewater more often. At any rate, thanks!
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Nov 24, 2013 23:56
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I have at least one VMC paint (Dark red) labeled "DO NOT SPRAY, Contains Cadmium" Check the toxicity labels on all your paints people.JerryLee posted:Thanks for the detailed followup. I found some of those myself by Googling but I didn't find the brokenzealot blog on my own, and that was by far the best. As I said, I never lick my brushes, pretty much ever, so my only real concern is with my method of cleaning my palette in the dishwasher (which works a treat, by the way). You'd think that the process of spraying and rinsing all the dishes clean and having it all go out the drain would keep any toxic substances from making it into my system via the dishes, but I suppose just to be safe I could start handwashing my palette in Super Clean instead. Also, I might take his advice about changing rinsewater more often. At any rate, thanks! Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Nov 25, 2013 |
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Nov 25, 2013 00:46
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Well, part of the dishwasher cycle is for everything to be thoroughly rinsed off and then dried, so I wouldn't have worried about it unless paints were somehow hypersensitive to trace amounts of detergent. At any rate, I've never actually noticed any deleterious effects.
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Nov 25, 2013 01:52
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Another Mierce figure, painted it up over the weekend. Megálávra, Krokodar Slaughterer:   
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Nov 25, 2013 03:17
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Nice. In particular I like the tie-in of blue & orange with the purple/blue on the ridges. Nice touch. Based what I've seen of your metallics, I take it the blade is not reflecting all the highlights? It seems a little bit let defined than the pommel of the weapon.
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Nov 25, 2013 03:52
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Oh yeah. Finished up my converted heavy weapons teams: Looking good...  ...feeling good! But wait a second. If I finished those heavy weapons teams, then that means that I have a FINISHED INFANTRY PLATOON  And one more cuz I know y'all motherfuckers eat this poo poo up: 
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Nov 25, 2013 06:19
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moths posted:
I saw it and started wondering what kind of clear, amazingly reflective plastic/glass you had used for the windows, so you certainly fooled me 
Dr Hemulen fucked around with this message at 14:42 on Nov 25, 2013 |
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Nov 25, 2013 10:32
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moths posted:
I suggest you stop touching it because it's loving great. I mean, on top of the paint job, what a great shot!
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Nov 25, 2013 10:49
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What's the suggest ratio of water and simple green (grönsåpa) for stripping? I read 50/50 at some place but then I realized that's a lot of GS when the container I'm using contains like 10dl of water. So in the end I just dunked in 10ml GS and some extra just in case. Guess I'll find out what happens in a couple of days.
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Nov 25, 2013 13:40
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I've always used straight simple green (or purple power or whatever) to stip. No need to dilute it.
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Nov 25, 2013 14:07
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Speaking of stripping models, what's the preferred stuff? Particularly one that doesn't touch glue. I'd like to redo some things but I'm not keen on reassembling everything.
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Nov 25, 2013 14:18
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In the UK at least, I used to only use brown dettol. But then someone suggested Fairy Power Spray and it's the most ridiculous thing. Strips down to the bare plastic, doesn't smell like a hospital, and is workable after ~30 minutes. The only reason I'd use dettol is if I were stripping a large amount of models or tanks and poo poo.
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Nov 25, 2013 14:26
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moths posted:It's more 1983 Omni magazine than what I was hoping for - any suggestions?
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Nov 25, 2013 14:38
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Any suggestions on how to make like thick slime for a base? Something that can be like textured but still look kinda wet/slimy. I'm doing a zerg project with my Tyranids and trying to make creep, basically.
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Nov 25, 2013 15:33
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Direwolf posted:Any suggestions on how to make like thick slime for a base? Something that can be like textured but still look kinda wet/slimy. If you're just doing the base, you could use the new Nurgle's Rot Technical paint, or some sort of water effects. If you're going to paint it and don't care if it's clear, you can mix wood putty up with a bit of water and build up your base. Once dry, paint your desired color, then give it a gloss coat. This is how a lot of naval wargamers make their water bases.
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Nov 25, 2013 15:53
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Direwolf posted:Any suggestions on how to make like thick slime for a base? Something that can be like textured but still look kinda wet/slimy. Dyed PVA, Water Effects, that new technical paint from GW all come to mind. Although I'm not 100% sure on what you mean by textured.
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Nov 25, 2013 15:53
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Vallejo do an acrylic gel thing that holds its shape quite well, dries trsnsparent but can be tinted with paints and whatnot. That'd do slime perfectly well.
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Nov 25, 2013 15:56
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Direwolf posted:Any suggestions on how to make like thick slime for a base? Something that can be like textured but still look kinda wet/slimy. You can also get some cool effects with Gorilla Glue + water + super glue. Smear a little bit of Gorilla Glue where you want it and let it sit for a few minutes. Once the glue starts to bubble up, you can apply small drops of super glue on top. The super glue will dry quickly on top of the bubbling Gorilla Glue and give an interesting wrinkled effect, but the rest of the Gorilla Glue will continue to inflate in small bubbles. It's a similar effect to PVA + super glue, except with the added expansion and bubbling of Gorilla Glue. You can get more bubbles by judiciously applying water or mist. EDIT VVVVVV This is what the effect looks like on the base of my tyranid. Those round blotches are from super glue. You can also poke the gorilla glue as it expands, which causes it to deflate: 
polyfractal fucked around with this message at 16:07 on Nov 25, 2013 |
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Nov 25, 2013 15:59
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ijyt posted:Dyed PVA, Water Effects, that new technical paint from GW all come to mind. Although I'm not 100% sure on what you mean by textured. Something that looks more viscous than liquid, basically. Creep has sorta waves and patterns on the surface so I was looking for something that could look liquid but hold some kind of texture on top instead of evening out. Enri, what's the name of the Vallejo thing? polyfractal posted:You can also get some cool effects with Gorilla Glue + water + super glue. Smear a little bit of Gorilla Glue where you want it and let it sit for a few minutes. Once the glue starts to bubble up, you can apply small drops of super glue on top. The super glue will dry quickly on top of the bubbling Gorilla Glue and give an interesting wrinkled effect, but the rest of the Gorilla Glue will continue to inflate in small bubbles. Hrm, I'll try this, I know the hardware store near me has Gorilla Glue. Thanks, I'll let you know how it turns out!
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Nov 25, 2013 16:01
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Direwolf posted:Something that looks more viscous than liquid, basically. Creep has sorta waves and patterns on the surface so I was looking for something that could look liquid but hold some kind of texture on top instead of evening out. Throwing glass beads into PVA is another way of getting that affect.
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Nov 25, 2013 16:55
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Bachtere posted:Another Mierce figure, painted it up over the weekend. Megálávra, Krokodar Slaughterer: God drat. Mierce have some really nice minis and you do a fantastic job with them!
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Nov 25, 2013 20:21
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Pro-Tip: Don't lick your brushes.
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Nov 25, 2013 20:36
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berzerkmonkey posted:The only other option I could think of would be to use clear acrylic, but airbrush a heavy dust layer - something like this. That looks like what I may be going with in the future, but with the limited time left in the oath I'm stuck with the chromed windows. Which I'm happy with! Thanks for the feedback everybody, I suppose it's true about everybody being their own worst critic. Looking at it again, I'm much happier with the effect.
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Nov 26, 2013 03:58
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After dropping the family off at the airport for a week to visit their US relatives, I got back home slightly bored and decided to play with some ideas for a Wave Serpent using the same colour palette used on the rest of my Eldar. There are no highlights on this model yet so ignore the grey area completely (it might not even stay grey yet) Too OTT/not OTT enough: 
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Nov 26, 2013 12:40
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richyp posted:After dropping the family off at the airport for a week to visit their US relatives, I got back home slightly bored and decided to play with some ideas for a Wave Serpent using the same colour palette used on the rest of my Eldar. There are no highlights on this model yet so ignore the grey area completely (it might not even stay grey yet) Too OTT would be every thing getting the "scale" treatment. I think this looks great so far. What's your plan for the flat grey areas?
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Nov 26, 2013 13:18
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I've never been a fan of cloaks in terms of how they're usually painted, as it looks too smooth and plastic for something made of wool. I tried to get that rougher texture with stippling, but the results were less than stellar. Has anyone had success painting cloaks for the effect I'm talking about?
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Nov 26, 2013 13:56
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ijyt posted:I've never been a fan of cloaks in terms of how they're usually painted, as it looks too smooth and plastic for something made of wool. I tried to get that rougher texture with stippling, but the results were less than stellar. Has anyone had success painting cloaks for the effect I'm talking about? I've never been able to accomplish it myself, but I've seen a few examples. E.g this wonderful model has a variety of cloth textures, most notably "wool" on the white portions of her dress and sleeves:  And Jen Haley has a nice example at the bottom of her "freehand" article. It isn't a wool texture, but she has highlighted threads so that it looks more like cloth and less like plastic: 
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Nov 26, 2013 14:30
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