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PaintVagrant posted:I just ordered one of those series 7 "miniature" brushes, with the shorter hairs. Ill post a trip report as soon as I get a chance to use it With regard to dry brushing what brush do you use? I think I'm using a brush with bristles that are too long, but I'm not sure.
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Apr 6, 2010 17:54
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PaintVagrant posted:I just ordered one of those series 7 "miniature" brushes, with the shorter hairs. Ill post a trip report as soon as I get a chance to use it Can't wait, as they're a bit cheaper than the Series 7s.
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Apr 6, 2010 17:56
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Indolent Bastard posted:With regard to dry brushing what brush do you use? I think I'm using a brush with bristles that are too long, but I'm not sure. I just buy cheap synthetic flat brushes, little ones. And yes, short bristles tend to work better, as do "springier" ones
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Apr 6, 2010 17:59
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PaintVagrant posted:I just ordered one of those series 7 "miniature" brushes, with the shorter hairs. Ill post a trip report as soon as I get a chance to use it I have a couple normal series 7 brushes from 5-6 years ago when I was big into painting. I ordered a couple miniature ones a few months ago when I started up again and they are pretty nice. They have an amazing point that is suited much better towards the small scale of miniatures. I still use the normal series 7 for some painting, as the miniature ones are much shorter and thus can't reach into some of the more awkward places. Because the bristles are shorter though they seem to hold their point much better as you are painting, and made painting eyes and freehand so much easier for me.
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Apr 6, 2010 18:14
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richyp posted:(It'll take a while though as my wrist is pretty much permanently hosed now, oldman diesease at 32 I feel ya buddy, I feel ya. 
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Apr 6, 2010 18:23
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dread wips, about 60% done, nothing is really finished other than the plague green/whatever you want to call it 
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Apr 6, 2010 19:33
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Any chance you could post your process for the green so far PV? I want to compare it to my own.
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Apr 6, 2010 20:20
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Not for client work, sorry
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Apr 6, 2010 20:28
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richyp posted:If anyone's interested I've probably got a spare primed marine somewhere I can show the effect on? Please do  I've tried two different glaze mediums, the first from Vallejo and I think the second was Liquitex. Vallejo has a matte finish (which I prefer) while Liquitex comes out kinda glossy even though both are labeled 'glaze', do you know what's up with that?
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Apr 6, 2010 21:16
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I picked up some of that matt medium so I'll use that thanks for clarifying everything.
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Apr 6, 2010 21:20
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PV the dread is awesome, did you do the base? Or client supplied? Is it getting water effects in the pool at the front?
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Apr 6, 2010 21:22
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Fast_Food_Knight posted:PV the dread is awesome, did you do the base? Or client supplied? Is it getting water effects in the pool at the front? zark built it, and yeah its getting a drowning cadian and water effects 
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Apr 6, 2010 21:28
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PaintVagrant posted:Oh no! His head fell off. 
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Apr 6, 2010 21:32
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No, it was ejected so the pilot could use his "Maximum Badass" special ability by operating ti while out in the open.
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Apr 6, 2010 23:03
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!amicable posted:This is no joke I think these are a better scale: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270558607826&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123 Opinions?
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Apr 6, 2010 23:21
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Make bear cavalry.
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Apr 6, 2010 23:28
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Making bear attack bikes.
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Apr 6, 2010 23:37
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Sup goons, long time lurker looking for some critique on my new Emperor's Children warband color scheme. This is the test model. I know its a bit flat, I'm planning on doing some more detailed highlights, but the color scheme won't change. What do y'all think?
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Apr 7, 2010 01:49
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Chewbaccanator posted:Sup goons, long time lurker looking for some critique on my new Emperor's Children warband color scheme. Looks pretty good to me, though I might suggest doing the arrow or whatever plate thing on the top of the helmet in a different color. Also you should join all the cool kids and do the base rim in black. 
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Apr 7, 2010 01:54
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Fyrbrand posted:Looks pretty good to me, though I might suggest doing the arrow or whatever plate thing on the top of the helmet in a different color. Also you should join all the cool kids and do the base rim in black. I had the idea of having a black rim base, but I don't know, it just looked too... unfinished. Maybe because the rim is always the last thing I paint before I declare a model finished. Also, what would you recommend the arrow be colored with? Chewbaccanator fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Apr 7, 2010 |
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Apr 7, 2010 02:00
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  the way GW did their helmets for the noise marines looks pretty good too  Click here for the full 873x627 image. Zarkov Cortez fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Apr 7, 2010 |
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Apr 7, 2010 02:10
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Chewbaccanator posted:I had the idea of having a black rim base, but I don't know, it just looked too... unfinished. Maybe because the rim is always the last thing I paint before I declare a model finished. Give the rims a try- they might grow on you. It looks like you have a dark gray going on for the base itself, so black would make that stand out more. For the arrow, I'd go with metallic, or even just in black like elsewhere.
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Apr 7, 2010 02:16
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Zarkov Cortez posted:That thread alone redeemed the modeling portion of Warseer. Some of the time, anyways. quote:the way GW did their helmets for the noise marines looks pretty good too Probably speaking out of my rear end here, but is that tentacle pink highlighted with...dwarf flesh?
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Apr 7, 2010 04:00
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bhsman posted:Probably speaking out of my rear end here, but is that tentacle pink highlighted with...dwarf flesh? Probably. I was going for a similar approach, using warlock purple as a shade to tentacle pink, but the redshirt at the store I went to buy my paint told me tentacle pink was no longer produced by GW. I had to mix my own with purple and white. e: Those Emperor's Children are from Warseer? If so, could I have the link? They look awesome.
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Apr 7, 2010 05:01
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Chewbaccanator posted:Probably. I was going for a similar approach, using warlock purple as a shade to tentacle pink, but the redshirt at the store I went to buy my paint told me tentacle pink was no longer produced by GW. I had to mix my own with purple and white. I still have a pot that I bought on a lark awhile back, you just need to keep an eye out for under-attended stores. 
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Apr 7, 2010 05:03
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Vallejo Squid Pink and Cote d'Arms Shocking Pink (I believe) are a near-exact match for Tentacle Pink.
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Apr 7, 2010 05:07
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stabbington posted:Vallejo Squid Pink and Cote d'Arms Shocking Pink (I believe) are a near-exact match for Tentacle Pink. Thanks, gotta try those when my homemade batch is all used up.
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Apr 7, 2010 07:34
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Chewbaccanator posted:Probably. I was going for a similar approach, using warlock purple as a shade to tentacle pink, but the redshirt at the store I went to buy my paint told me tentacle pink was no longer produced by GW. I had to mix my own with purple and white. http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=155488 Also unrelated to that (buy possessed csm box/sprues),   Click here for the full 922x696 image.  Click here for the full 799x671 image. Zarkov Cortez fucked around with this message at 08:09 on Apr 7, 2010 |
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Apr 7, 2010 08:06
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Crossposted from the 40k thread. Well, I was going to oath some Space Hulk Terminators last month, but the box took 19 days to get here... I didn't really want to rush them, and still have way too much work to do on finalizing the colors, especially my black. I tried some edge highlights, which looks ok but I feel I could do something quite a bit better. The red looks perfect in person, and other than that I mostly just have to pick a final color for the gems and not have them be an ugly flat color. Oh and buy some normal 40k bases for these.  Click here for the full 720x626 image.
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Apr 7, 2010 08:38
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Arlaharen posted:Please do I've found a Howling Banshee (they're popular around here right?) primed in white in my poo poo that'll never get used box (ever increasing). I'll do a stage by stage getting it from white to that weird beige/bone colour GW use on theirs. Like I said earlier though, arthritis is a bitch and I'm not supposed to be using my hand so it'll take a little while longer (that and the wash is taking ages to dry)
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Apr 7, 2010 08:54
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richyp posted:I've found a Howling Banshee (they're popular around here right?) primed in white in my poo poo that'll never get used box (ever increasing). I'll do a stage by stage getting it from white to that weird beige/bone colour GW use on theirs. You need some shark cartilage. Or whatever snake-oil cure for that poo poo is these days. EDIT: Space Shark Cartilage. Has gene seed in it, so it must be better.
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Apr 7, 2010 09:00
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Sole.Sushi posted:You need some shark cartilage. Or whatever snake-oil cure for that poo poo is these days. mmm cartlidge. Anyway, here's a mini tutorial on the awesomeness of matt medium. The last shot just shows the base colours after the layers of the bone so ignore the lack of highlights etc.. of the green, blue and red, it's just a contrast to show how nice the bone is when using medium. Without further blabbering here's some pictures: Step 1 Plaster the model in a mix of 10:5:1, Matt medium, water and VMC Tan Yellow (similar to GW Desert yellow). After it's dried wash with Gryphone Sepia.  You can see how thin the mix was by looking at the palette behind her, to the right of her head. Step 2 Using the same mix as before, paint the flat areas, notice how translucent the paint is, already showing some nice depth.  Step 3 This is the really cool bit, and a nice side effect of Matt mediums, slow drying. Add a drop of white to the mix, just a bit. And brush the mix from the edges of the flat areas, into the middle, working down, and it will blend smoothly.  (best example is on the thigh under the gun arm) Step 4 Repeat step 3 with a little bit more white, and a more conservative area.  Step 5 And again.  Step 6 This shot just shows the same model from "GW distance",and the bone colour after a bit of "brown lining" with some devlan mud in the edges around the tabard etc...  Total time: About 1.5hrs Total time waiting for the poo poo to dry and twiddling thumbs: About 1hr (Now excuse me while I go and find some pain killers)
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Apr 7, 2010 10:35
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Dang, that is some nice work. I wish I had something that looked like that after an hour and a half. I've got some slow medium, I should really try it out one of these days. Loks like it'd be fun.
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Apr 7, 2010 15:31
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Cheers for that Richyp. Sorry to hear about your gammy hand. 
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Apr 7, 2010 18:23
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richyp posted:
Im not sure what it is called in the UK, but if my lovely wrists are acting up, I take naproxen sodium, which is brand named Aleve here. I find it works best for joint stuff. Old men chat itt
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Apr 7, 2010 18:28
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I find strong Ibuprofen helps, but I have RSI, not arthritis. Gammy hands suck.
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Apr 7, 2010 18:35
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Posted this in the wrong thread. For fun I was thinking about making a Slaanesh champion using some of my collection of bits. Can anyone throw some suggestions out there for parts to use? I have regular CSM parts, csm terminator stuff, csm terminator lord stuff and some possessed pieces to pick from. I also have ork nobz pieces, some IG pieces and a ton of nid stuff. I am also considering doing some kind of cthulhu/tentacle additions.
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Apr 7, 2010 18:41
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Product review: craftlite Energy Saving Daylight Bulb 20W ES I normally use Phillips 60W daylight bulbs in my desk lamp and the second lamp I use with it when I can be arsed to set up my lightbox. I've been down to one bulb for a while and not found any replacements so I took a risk and picked up one of these bulbs in Hobbycraft. Generally my opinion of energy-efficient bulbs has been that they're poo poo for painting: Super yellow, take as much as half an hour to get to full brightness, and their "equivalent to xxW tungsten" claims are usually exaggerated by something like 50%. I was therefore rather skeptical about these bulbs, and decided to get a 20W (100W equivalent) instead of the 11W (60W equivalent). This bulb completely trashes all my preconceptions. It's an incredibly pure white, the Phillips bulb in my other lamp looks quite yellow in comparison: I'm not completely sure that's the best thing but I'll take it over the normal colour of EE bulbs. The bulb reaches full brightness within a second of being switched on. It's also incredibly bright - it probably is genuinely equivalent to a 100W tungsten. The only real downside is the spiral is a bit long so it will stick out of a standard desk lamp slightly; that probably wouldn't be a problem with the 11W one though. And there you go. I have written a gushing post on the internet about light bulbs.
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Apr 7, 2010 18:44
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Where did you get it/how much was it?
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Apr 7, 2010 19:00
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Can anyone recommend a lamp set up I can pick up in the UK for £20 or less that will be ideal for painting minis. I dropped my desk lamp last and now we have bulb afficionados I need help. Dumb questions ITT (buy any old loving lamp edition)
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Apr 7, 2010 19:30
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