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Dandywalken posted:1) Is there a reliable way to strip your miniatures of paint that Google isnt telling me? I've looked at mine, and while not laughably thickly painted, its obvious that a finer touch is needed as well as using thinned paints. I was doing straight out of the pot paint (because the lid had a little lip that I assumed was a makeshift pallet, you see) I've got a few pewter figures I'd like to one day repaint. Dandywalken posted:2) If I gently caress up a fine detail like eyeballs (which were always the funnest part to do I felt. Nailing a white/red speck on a tiny red ball was sweet as hell) is there an immediate reactionary measure to redo it? Or should I just wait for it to dry, lace it with proper green to make it look right, and move on? LingcodKilla posted:No. Way too much power. I just use a drill bit in a speed chuck. I've literally drilled hundreds of holes in metal and plastic with it. The amount of control will save you from hurting tons of models.
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May 25, 2014 01:34
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WYeah I can and if I could find the freakin bit I would show you how polished the hex bolt is from rubbing on my palm. This is my upgraded hand drill now. The base rotates so I don't rub so much now. The control is superior.   Look how polished that is. I've been using that setup for ten years, over a hundred set of model arms and countless vehicles. I cradle it so the hex bolt hits me in the center of the palm. Never changed the drill bit either. Crab Dad fucked around with this message at 01:47 on May 25, 2014 |
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May 25, 2014 01:41
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Macdeo Lurjtux posted:Can anyone suggest a hand dremel for drilling holes for magnets? I also drilled a hole through my thumbnail (right into the nail bed) when the bit got bound up while magnetizing some Hordes miniatures. I switched to a powered screwdriver with a 1/8" drillbit that had a hexagonal base (like a drill bit). It saved me having to do it manually, and I haven't almost thrown up due to pain since. oh, and lots of blood all over my workspace.
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May 25, 2014 06:16
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poo poo, I hope y'all like infantry.  Two Primaris Psykers. Finished them tonight. Really happy with how they turned out. Kinda winged it on the color scheme, but I think they look hella boss. You know what that means? I'm loving done with Guard infantry. Aww yeah. All 120 of 'em:  The Company Command Squad:  Regimental Advisors (or holy poo poo would I rather have done green and black Cadians):  Primaris Psykers and a lascannon team for the CCS:  First platoon Command Squad with Commissar:  First platoon Combat Engineers (veterans):  First platoon Infantry Squads:  First platoon Grenadiers:  First platoon Fire Support Squads:  Second platoon Command Squad with Commissar:  Second platoon Combat Engineers:  Second platoon Infantry Squads:  Second platoon Grenadiers:  Second platoon Fire Support Squads:  So, in about a million tanks, fliers, walkers and one super-heavy, I'll be done. Then I can update my Raven Guard.  Then I can start my Orks. 
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May 25, 2014 07:21
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berzerkmonkey posted:If you're in the US, Superclean. It comes in a purple jug. You can get it at Walmart or Advanced Auto Parts. I drill all my "non-pin vice" sized holes with my regular old 18v power drill. Just don't be a dumb and put your fingers right where the drill would exit the model if you were to drill too far. You can get a really good amount of control if you don't try and drill out a magnet hole like you are drilling a hole into a piece of plywood. Drilling a suitably deep pilot hole with your jeweler's bit and then boring the rest out with a power drill is the best method I've found for making magnet and pin holes; eventually you will be able to just "feel" where the pilot hole (from your jeweler's bit) ends and your drill starts trying to bore into solid plastic with no pilot. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 07:27 on May 25, 2014 |
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May 25, 2014 07:25
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dexefiend posted:I also drilled a hole through my thumbnail (right into the nail bed) when the bit got bound up while magnetizing some Hordes miniatures. It has been [0] days since our last hobbyspace injury. Only in my case, my exacto knife slipped while I was trying to pry a scout off a base without snapping his goddamn foot off. Guess I know who my next base-mounted casualty is going to be!
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May 25, 2014 08:24
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My power drill chuck doesn't go small enough to hold my smallest modelling bits; I've been known to chuck the entire chuck of my pin vise into it then chuck the bit into that, for drilling long holes right through things - but really, you don't wanna rush stuff too much. Using power tools on things that are tiny and you have to grip with your fingers is just asking for vicious injury.
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May 25, 2014 08:50
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Dandywalken posted:1) Is there a reliable way to strip your miniatures of paint that Google isnt telling me? I've looked at mine, and while not laughably thickly painted, its obvious that a finer touch is needed as well as using thinned paints. I was doing straight out of the pot paint (because the lid had a little lip that I assumed was a makeshift pallet, you see) I've got a few pewter figures I'd like to one day repaint. Funnily enough it's in the thread title! Simple green if you're an American, Fairy Power Spray if a Brit. Dandywalken posted:2) If I gently caress up a fine detail like eyeballs (which were always the funnest part to do I felt. Nailing a white/red speck on a tiny red ball was sweet as hell) is there an immediate reactionary measure to redo it? Or should I just wait for it to dry, lace it with proper green to make it look right, and move on? The way I paint eyes (if I do at all), is that I paint them first, and then paint the rest of the face/head. That way any mistakes get painted over anyway. Alternatively, just shade eye sockets and gently caress painting eyes. E: The awful app didn't mention that there was an entire page of replies already.  E2: Oh poo poo those Steel Legion are awesome, be proud dude. ijyt fucked around with this message at 10:14 on May 25, 2014 |
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May 25, 2014 10:09
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Dandywalken posted:1) Is there a reliable way to strip your miniatures of paint that Google isnt telling me? Metal minis can be stripped with anything - paint stripper, brake fluid, Fairy Power Spray (in the UK), in the US Simple Green (see the thread title) or there's another couple of products other goons can suggest There are tons of eye tutorials online, and none of the easy/good ones suggest putting the pupil in last. The most workable tips I"ve read are to apply the white, put a thin line of black for the pupil, then paint around the eye with the flesh color. And why do you think green to clean up an eyeball? e: holy poo poo either I should speed up my typing or make sure there isn't another page of replies krushgroove fucked around with this message at 11:42 on May 25, 2014 |
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May 25, 2014 11:40
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Dandywalken posted:1) Is there a reliable way to strip your miniatures of paint that Google isnt telling me? I've looked at mine, and while not laughably thickly painted, its obvious that a finer touch is needed as well as using thinned paints. I was doing straight out of the pot paint (because the lid had a little lip that I assumed was a makeshift pallet, you see) I've got a few pewter figures I'd like to one day repaint. quote:2) If I gently caress up a fine detail like eyeballs (which were always the funnest part to do I felt. Nailing a white/red speck on a tiny red ball was sweet as hell) is there an immediate reactionary measure to redo it? Or should I just wait for it to dry, lace it with proper green to make it look right, and move on? Fixing red eye failures: paint some thinned red around it, add some white and paint eyeball with that, voila instant glowing eyes! Example on a lovely model I painted in like an hour. (and yes the pinkish hue is there on purpose, use orange/yellow instead of white and you should be fine) Also, if you can't trust your hands to stay steady: 1. use a good brush - a size 6 brush with a fine point holds paint better, doesn't dry as fast and makes it easier to paint eyes and other tiny details than a size 0000000000000000000 brush that will dry before you take it off the palette. 2. Rest your mini on something (blu-tac it to an empty paint jar, rest it on a box or something if you don't want to ruin your back because you want it roughly on eye level). Same with your brush (like on a piece of wood in front of the mini, you want a resting point about 1/4 to 1/3 brush length from bristles to the other end, that will make any movements that much more precise and reduce the shaking by the same amount. Kinda tedious but if you want pretty models and have to work around your limitations...). Pierzak fucked around with this message at 12:00 on May 25, 2014 |
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May 25, 2014 11:54
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Sex Cannon your Steelies look so good.Bavius posted:I painted up some scouts finally, really dislike the base model so I went with some helmets. I did my Bludwing Scouts similar to this, gray camo cloaks, red helmets, black armor. Even the old metal Scouts look better with helmets, even though the old sculpt had heads that weren't totally  Nice sculpting on the Minotaurs emblems! Dandywalken posted:Hey all. I'm an awful painter, due to (in part) some prescribed meds loving with my finer motor functions when I was younger. So my hands are a bit shaky when trying to do really minute movements. My hands don't shake much, but there isn't a painter I know that doesn't brace their hands for additional control. When painting, my elbows generally go on my knees, feet flat on the floor. The spots, right and left hand, where my wrists meet my palms then press together. Being right handed, I hold the mini in my left and the brush in my right. Sometimes, for very fine detail, my fingers lean against each other. Does that help at all? I have taken a photo of this in the past, I have no idea where it is and it's difficult to take a photo without a third hand. Post 9-11 User fucked around with this message at 12:22 on May 25, 2014 |
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May 25, 2014 12:17
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Work in progress Cyclopses for my oath. I am not sure I am gonna finish before the end of the month but I wanted to ask two questions. One: how the gently caress do you guys get those standards to sit on the back of your cyclopses without brewing. Two of three have snapped so far and I really am wanting to say screw it and leave them off. Two I want to base these things on a desert base. I would like either some smooth red stone and maybe baby cacti. Where would I find something like this for a tutorial. I checked brushthralls, but they didn't quite get everything I wanted to know. Do I leave holes for the feet or do I glue the model on top of the gravel? 
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May 25, 2014 19:24
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WIP Leman Russes (there are two)... Everything is magnetized, even the sponsons and the rail underneath for the dozer blade.   My first foray into airbrushing. I learned a lot, and I'll probably be taking another pass at the sponsons. This is my first try at the Armageddon Steel Legion "Ash waste" camo pattern... I'm pretty happy with it. For the airbrushing, I went with a base coat of rust red, and then I left areas unpainted, which I like the effect of. I tried the "salt and hairspray" method on a test piece from an old Chimera, and I didn't like how it came out. I think the light "surface rust" look really looks nice, and I have some weathering powder I plan to throw on before I seal it.    
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May 25, 2014 20:42
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waah posted:Do I leave holes for the feet or do I glue the model on top of the gravel? I'd love to know the answer to this too, because I normally add the sand sticking them to the base, and it ends up looking like they're sinking into it.
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May 25, 2014 20:45
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Painted me some star wars      pew pew
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May 25, 2014 21:16
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:I'd love to know the answer to this too, because I normally add the sand sticking them to the base, and it ends up looking like they're sinking into it. With plastic minis I sometimes glue a tiny sliver of plasticard onto the sole of each foot and then glue that to the base. I usually base with a mix of different grades of Woodland Scenics ballast though which comes out pretty deep sometimes, so it's maybe a bit OTT for anyone using fine beach sand. Also have a cross-posted looted Land Raider/battlewagon WIP. 
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May 25, 2014 21:47
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waah posted:Work in progress Cyclopses for my oath. I am not sure I am gonna finish before the end of the month but I wanted to ask two questions. One: how the gently caress do you guys get those standards to sit on the back of your cyclopses without brewing. Two of three have snapped so far and I really am wanting to say screw it and leave them off. My skorne are based the same way.  I use two different types of rocks. Tiberion there is sporting an actual rock that I got in a bag of rocks at the home decor section of Target. The Sentry there is rockin' some pine bark mulch. Both have been primed white, painted with minitaire bloodstained mud and then dry brushed with minitaire red clay. The cactus on the gladiator is from Pegasus Hobbies Cactus #2. I think that's the biggest cactus in the kit, most of them are much smaller. As for gluing on top of or before sand it's mostly personal preference I think.
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May 25, 2014 21:55
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:My skorne are based the same way. Thanks so much this is so helpful.
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May 25, 2014 22:08
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Thanks alot for the advice, all! I'll keep in mind the different ways to do eye's etc, and using an appropriate brush. Part of my failings may have been due to just using two brushes... the GW "fine detail" one, and their Drybrush one. If my drat phone wasnt a flip-phone with terrible resolution I'd post a pic or two to show the kind of results I was getting. Will try to borroy a friend's phone to take a few. Also, I regret I've lost my Mega Armor Warboss somewhere during the passing of time. Thankfully, all my WFB Black Orcs are still rockin' out in my bedroom-dresser drawer. Worst comes to shove, I'll buy a Kommando model and use that to scratch my 40k itch :P
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May 26, 2014 02:01
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 Very rough Word Bearers cataphractii. Still needs a lot of work like weathering and washing but this is like <2 hours. They'll end up being the opposite of my Death Guard (if I don't like how I paint World Eaters).
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May 26, 2014 03:47
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Hey I finished painting another thing.    
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May 26, 2014 04:54
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SRM posted:Hey I finished painting another thing. Seriously man, you are the king. Never stop.
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May 26, 2014 05:39
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I asked about airbrushes about a week ago, but then I had to leave town for a week before I got everything sorted out. I think I'm going to go for the Badger Patriot as a brush. I got a lot of recommendations on tanks, but a lot of people pretty much said "get the Amazon one" and I got a lot of get one with an air tank. Is this the one people were referencing? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&pf_rd_i=507846 Someone was pimping Sparmax, but the Sparmax compressors with tanks were like $400+, so I don't know that I want to start there. EDIT: Realized I had Prime Only checked. Is this the one? http://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-TC-2...essor+with+tank Also a badger one, but no clue how valuable branding is aside from the build in holder http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Br...essor+with+tank VVV Thanks Karnegal fucked around with this message at 07:44 on May 26, 2014 |
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May 26, 2014 07:28
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Karnegal posted:Is this the one? http://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-TC-2...essor+with+tank Yes, it's this one.
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May 26, 2014 07:36
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:My skorne are based the same way. that's some lovely Skorne.
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May 26, 2014 08:30
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Nebalebadingdong posted:Painted me some star wars You put tigershark teeth on Slave-1. You are Zardoz's gift to goondom.
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May 26, 2014 08:46
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Karnegal posted:I asked about airbrushes about a week ago, but then I had to leave town for a week before I got everything sorted out. I think I'm going to go for the Badger Patriot as a brush. I got a lot of recommendations on tanks, but a lot of people pretty much said "get the Amazon one" and I got a lot of get one with an air tank. Is this the one people were referencing? Make sure you get the correct hose adapter so you can hook up your hose to the compressor, you won't be able to without one as the male end of the compressor and the female end of the Badger hoses are not compatible size. I think it's this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002VZUKH0/ref=cm_cr_asin_lnk but you might want to research it a bit.
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May 26, 2014 10:17
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:
The paint looks pretty thick, are you properly thinning it? Might just be the photo, could you take one in better light?
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May 26, 2014 10:25
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There's only one thing wrong with this Razorback. It doesn't have the Lascannon/Twin Plasmagun weapon fit.  In all seriousness, I love these guys, can't wait to see what you do next. All of these rock, but Shark-1 is the best!
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May 26, 2014 12:29
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The Supreme Court posted:The paint looks pretty thick, are you properly thinning it? Might just be the photo, could you take one in better light? No, the paint is definitely too thick (esp the black on the left shoulder) and the metallics. I was having primer issues and my paint didn't want to stick and that's what I ended up with. On that note, anyone have a surefire of knowing if you got off all the release agent off of something?
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May 26, 2014 12:40
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:No, the paint is definitely too thick (esp the black on the left shoulder) and the metallics. I was having primer issues and my paint didn't want to stick and that's what I ended up with. Scrub them with warm (NOT HOT) water and dishsoap. That should take the release agent off, but if it doesn't try using an automotive primer.
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May 26, 2014 14:11
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:No, the paint is definitely too thick (esp the black on the left shoulder) and the metallics. I was having primer issues and my paint didn't want to stick and that's what I ended up with. That's a shame. Definitely fix the primer issues, as it'll just kill the details those lovely models. I'd be tempted to strip them down if several got primed like that: I painted a unit of black knights once after the primer went on fuzzy, thinking I'd salvage them somehow with painting and inks, and I just ended up wrecking the models. I've been meaning to strip them for a long time, but can't face it!
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May 26, 2014 15:49
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Here's some shots of a space marine librarian I've been working on lately, there are a few things that I want to improve but I'm not sure how to just yet. I want to make the bolter (it's supposed to be 'the primarchs wrath') look more impressive and unique, and I feel like the librarian shoulder pad needs a bit more detail but I don't know what. If anybody has any ideas, I'm all ears.  
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May 26, 2014 16:05
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That's absolutely gorgeous. The bolter is the one thing I don't like: it simply looks too big. Would a pistol with the same strap and scope work? I think the rest of the model is ornate enough that simplicity in the gun would help balance it as a whole: you could lose the scope and it'd be quite elegant.
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May 26, 2014 16:10
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How would you guys go about highlighting Citadel Flash Gitz yellow? I was thinking maybe 1:1 with bone then straight bone? I'm a hobby idiot and wont stop trying to nail down Imperial Fists. Edit: That kitbash Librarian looks very cool.
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May 26, 2014 16:38
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:How would you guys go about highlighting Citadel Flash Gitz yellow? I was thinking maybe 1:1 with bone then straight bone? I'm a hobby idiot and wont stop trying to nail down Imperial Fists. Mix kislev flesh in and then glaze with a yellow once your highlights are done.
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May 26, 2014 17:00
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Okay cheers, I'll give that a go.
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May 26, 2014 17:26
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Pamphlet posted:Here's some shots of a space marine librarian I've been working on lately, there are a few things that I want to improve but I'm not sure how to just yet. I want to make the bolter (it's supposed to be 'the primarchs wrath') look more impressive and unique, and I feel like the librarian shoulder pad needs a bit more detail but I don't know what. If anybody has any ideas, I'm all ears. This is a great model. I think the shoulderpads are fine. Too much detail might clutter them up. About the bolter: I agree with The Supreme Court (ha!) in that it looks a little big. Have you considered removing the scope and adding a drum mag instead of the sickle mag? That might help it look more distinct from the rest of your army's bolters.
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May 26, 2014 18:07
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I agree with that. Either a pistol, or taking off the scope would slim it down and create a cleaner through line for the pose. And a drum mag is always cooler.
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May 26, 2014 18:10
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Pamphlet posted:Here's some shots of a space marine librarian I've been working on lately, there are a few things that I want to improve but I'm not sure how to just yet. I want to make the bolter (it's supposed to be 'the primarchs wrath') look more impressive and unique, and I feel like the librarian shoulder pad needs a bit more detail but I don't know what. If anybody has any ideas, I'm all ears.  What more is there to improve? Honestly, I think more bits will just make him look cluttered. I don't know the fluff for Primarch's Wrath other than it's really well made, so I think you've done enough unless you want to add those ammunition selector pack thingies that the Deathwatch bolters have.He looks stonking great as is. There's a plastic Librarian kit now? Bolter too big? I disagree, the bolter is one of the very few weapons in the game that is scaled properly. It looks overly big in the hands of a Guard Sergeant, looks smallish in the hands of a Space Marine. If only lasguns, avenger shuriken catapults, et cetera were done this way. Post 9-11 User fucked around with this message at 18:31 on May 26, 2014 |
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May 26, 2014 18:24
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