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Moola
Aug 16, 2006

Captain Invictus posted:

Here's the kickstarter page, it's got some examples of the 15mm stuff, though I don't think it's available for mass purchase yet.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/dreamforge-games/something-wicked-this-way-comes-crusader-plastic-m

Also, I am super excited for the future models he's making, the Ada mini wasn't anything to sneeze at but the female Eisenkern are both excellent sculpts and also realistically designed and proportioned. He asked for feedback on their designs and changed them accordingly, they look fantastic and I'll be buying a few boxes as soon as he puts them out to mix in with the male Eisenkern.


These would make really cool sisters of battle IMO.

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Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?

Captain Invictus posted:

edit: waitwaitwaitwaitwait whoa whoa whoa. I've not actually assembled a Leviathan, but they're this big? Isn't this, like, standing next to the GW Knight Titan? For $35 less you get that much more of a bigger, badder bot. I've not followed GW in years, are they still doing well? Not collapsed under their own hubris yet?


That's the 28mm Leviathan. They have two versions: that one, and a 15mm one.

28mm Leviathan: 8.5"
15mm Leviathan: 4.6"
Imperial Knight: 6"
Warhound Titan: 10"

While the Leviathans are cheaper by an order of magnitude more than GW, they don't quite fit the sizes you'd like to use them for (knight/warhound). With the 15mm one you can make it work by increasing the base size appropriately, but the 28mm one would require more work if you wanted to use it as a Warhound. It might be possible to use the 28mm one for one of the newer FW knights like the Cerastus, but I don't know their exact height (someone in this thread might know).

Another issue is that the 15mm one is stuck with the weapons it has; Dreamforge hasn't made swappable weapons for that scale, but they do have them for the 28mm one. This isn't really a problem per-se if you're inventive and have some bits hanging around, or plasticard in the plenty.

signalnoise
Mar 7, 2008

i was told my old av was distracting
Note, I'm asking in here instead of the gundam models thread because I want to put in more effort. It's also just general airbrushing practice because I don't want to airbrush some miniature I put hours of painting time into and gently caress it up. So not so much miniatures related, but I'm planning to do my first high-effort gundam model in the coming weeks. I'm gonna airbrush all the big panels, and there's going to be a lot of white. The usual look I see when people airbrush white is that they go over with an off-white cream or something with a little yellow or brown in it, but I'm going to be aiming at a high contrast look with candy reds and lots of ghost tint use if I can find some reasons. I don't have any problem following the basic color guides adjusted for my paints, just basically repainting the plastic with some more vibrant stuff, but I'm concerned about the amount of white in the model.

For reference, this is the thing:


That's a finished model with black panel lining as (I think) the only modification. I want to take all of the non-skeletal parts and airbrush them for greater color vibrancy and some special effects if I can get away with it. So my plan so far is basically

Blacks: Dark grey with deep black crevices. Or, should I paint the whole thing black and airbrush a grey on the edges?
Reds: Repaint with a bright red, spray outcroppings with a lighter red, candy the whole thing to bring it together, and then satin topcoat.
Pinks: Bright pink with a magenta ghost tint cover.
Sword blade: Repaint white and attempt to have a gradient going darker towards the tip using ghost tint plasma fluid.
Whites: Unsure if I should paint just flat white or if I should do a cream white with sprayed bright white edges or what.
Once everything has the base colors I'll spray all the parts gloss for protection, then do panel lining with a preferred ink for the job and wipe away excess hoping not to gently caress it up. Then a satin top coat on everything and then it's final assembly time.

Again this is mainly for airbrush practice on larger pieces because I have very little experience with airbrushing, and no experience painting models larger than 50mm where you just basecoat with the airbrush and do the rest with a regular brush.

For equipment reference, if it means anything, I have at my disposal a Badger 155 and a Sotar 20/20 which I could see trying to use but that thing still scares the poo poo out of me.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

If you will not serve in combat, you will serve on the firing line!




Captain Invictus posted:

Also, I am super excited for the future models he's making, the Ada mini wasn't anything to sneeze at but the female Eisenkern are both excellent sculpts and also realistically designed and proportioned. He asked for feedback on their designs and changed them accordingly, they look fantastic and I'll be buying a few boxes as soon as he puts them out to mix in with the male Eisenkern.


Oho, interesting, and here I was just going to buy these heads. But that alternative looks kinda interesting.

Captain Invictus
Apr 5, 2005

Try reading some manga!


Clever Betty

Slimnoid posted:

That's the 28mm Leviathan. They have two versions: that one, and a 15mm one.

28mm Leviathan: 8.5"
15mm Leviathan: 4.6"
Imperial Knight: 6"
Warhound Titan: 10"

While the Leviathans are cheaper by an order of magnitude more than GW, they don't quite fit the sizes you'd like to use them for (knight/warhound). With the 15mm one you can make it work by increasing the base size appropriately, but the 28mm one would require more work if you wanted to use it as a Warhound. It might be possible to use the 28mm one for one of the newer FW knights like the Cerastus, but I don't know their exact height (someone in this thread might know).

Another issue is that the 15mm one is stuck with the weapons it has; Dreamforge hasn't made swappable weapons for that scale, but they do have them for the 28mm one. This isn't really a problem per-se if you're inventive and have some bits hanging around, or plasticard in the plenty.

No I know all that, but I hadn't realized that the 28mm one was a significant size larger than the knight. And 15mm leviathan weapons are in the works, but since Dreamforge is basically a one man operation, it's slow going. He's still trucking along though, I've been in full support of his work since the start and admire his dedication.

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?

Captain Invictus posted:

No I know all that, but I hadn't realized that the 28mm one was a significant size larger than the knight. And 15mm leviathan weapons are in the works, but since Dreamforge is basically a one man operation, it's slow going. He's still trucking along though, I've been in full support of his work since the start and admire his dedication.

Yeah, I rather like his stuff. I just wish they were a tiny bit taller so that they'd be perfect stand-ins for Knights/Warhounds. But I don't think that's really his fault or anything, and adjusting the height isn't really a huge problem for me.

NTRabbit
Aug 15, 2012

i wear this armour to protect myself from the histrionics of hysterical women

bitches




Asked in the Mantic thread, probably worth asking here too:

Pretty sure I've picked out the airbrush I'm getting, but now comes extras - for painting my Deadzone terrain I was planning on groups of tiles in dull colours like grey, blue, olive drab, etc with highlights in other colours. Any advantage to using a coloured primer, or is doing the lot in VMA Black/White primer the best and safest option?

gilljoy
May 3, 2009

NTRabbit posted:

Asked in the Mantic thread, probably worth asking here too:

Pretty sure I've picked out the airbrush I'm getting, but now comes extras - for painting my Deadzone terrain I was planning on groups of tiles in dull colours like grey, blue, olive drab, etc with highlights in other colours. Any advantage to using a coloured primer, or is doing the lot in VMA Black/White primer the best and safest option?

Really depends on what your painting, I tend to use a black and grey primer on my stuff as I know all the colours I want to use work with them.

On the other hand a coloured primer may make the process quicker

NTRabbit
Aug 15, 2012

i wear this armour to protect myself from the histrionics of hysterical women

bitches




gilljoy posted:

Really depends on what your painting

Basically these http://www.manticgames.com/mantic-shop/battlezones.html

Though I of course plan to use it to save time priming and basing all my minis as well, maybe even take a stab at detail

WhiteOutMouse
Jul 29, 2010

:wom: will blow your mind.
I might be down for a US pad order if there is room.

I like the front and back (side a/b) but I think they should also offer mixing front and back. Like imperial road A and Mountain A. If their process is taking two completed sides and pouring in the resin between them then they could probably mix and match easily enough.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 31 days!

BULBASAUR posted:

I use 90% P3 paints and love them. Their consistency is awesome with great coverage. Only real drawback is a limited color range. You'll still want to water them down, but its about 2:1 (paint:water) vs GW's 1:1. I keep mine in the pots and transfer paint out with a 'bitch brush'. If you want to transfer them into droppers you can which would make them even easier to work with.

That was one thing I was gonna ask, re: coverage. I still plan on getting some Vallejo paints, as my understanding is that they cover pretty well with one or two coats (the Model Color range specifically). Is P3 pretty comparable in that regard as well? I don't expect it to cover like one of the old GW Foundation paints, of course, but if most of the P3 paints covers reasonably well in a couple of coats I'd be happy. :)

gilljoy
May 3, 2009
Vallejo game air paints.

Anyone tried the reds and blues? Looking at painting some cygnar and blood angels

JoshTheStampede
Sep 8, 2004

come at me bro

gilljoy posted:

Vallejo game air paints.

Anyone tried the reds and blues? Looking at painting some cygnar and blood angels

Do they even exist yet? I thought only reviewers and such had them yet.

Numlock
May 19, 2007

The simplest seppo on the forums
^^ They are good, any of them.

I use Vallejo and I don't know why I would switch to anything else.

Though I would definitely recommend using the Model/Game AIR line in an airbrush as I've gotten a lot of clogs trying to get diluted Model color through mine. Might be my fault might be theirs or my cheap starter airbrush, IDK.

Dremcon
Sep 25, 2007
No, not a convention.

LingcodKilla posted:

Would anyone buy a bunch of used GW paints? Kinda thinking of thinning my herd due to space and lack of time to paint during the next 8 months.

Not expecting a great amount for them but if some new painter wants to jump start a collection it could probaly be a good deal for them.

Don't have PMs, send me an email frbyonddrv at gmail

I've just started and only have a few pots of my own. If they're still alive and the price is right I'll jump on it.

LumberingTroll
Sep 9, 2007

Really it's not because
I don't like you...

Slimnoid posted:

That's the 28mm Leviathan. They have two versions: that one, and a 15mm one.

28mm Leviathan: 8.5"
15mm Leviathan: 4.6"
Imperial Knight: 6"
Warhound Titan: 10"

While the Leviathans are cheaper by an order of magnitude more than GW, they don't quite fit the sizes you'd like to use them for (knight/warhound). With the 15mm one you can make it work by increasing the base size appropriately, but the 28mm one would require more work if you wanted to use it as a Warhound. It might be possible to use the 28mm one for one of the newer FW knights like the Cerastus, but I don't know their exact height (someone in this thread might know).

Another issue is that the 15mm one is stuck with the weapons it has; Dreamforge hasn't made swappable weapons for that scale, but they do have them for the 28mm one. This isn't really a problem per-se if you're inventive and have some bits hanging around, or plasticard in the plenty.

If you are already using non gw models, would anyone really care if you Knight is 1.4" shorter and your Warhound is 1.5" shorter? I kinda doubt most people would even notice.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
Spent a bit more time on this today.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat

Sydney Bottocks posted:

That was one thing I was gonna ask, re: coverage. I still plan on getting some Vallejo paints, as my understanding is that they cover pretty well with one or two coats (the Model Color range specifically). Is P3 pretty comparable in that regard as well? I don't expect it to cover like one of the old GW Foundation paints, of course, but if most of the P3 paints covers reasonably well in a couple of coats I'd be happy. :)

Coverage is good, but like all paints, some cover better than others. If you expect miracles out of the P3 white, for example, it will let you down. Otherwise you'll get solid coverage and really nice consistency.

I use mostly P3 and Vallejo. P3 for base colors and Vallejo for metallics. I always heard bad things about P3 metallics so I've switched entirely over to Vallejo for that.

stabbington
Sep 1, 2007

It doesn't feel right to kill an unarmed man... but I'll get over it.
Pig Iron is quite good. The rest, eh.

Indolent Bastard
Oct 26, 2007

I WON THIS AMAZING AVATAR! I'M A WINNER! WOOOOO!

signalnoise posted:

The shipping is about 12 dollars. I am willing to start up a split order. I'm going to buy two. Anyone interested, PM me. I did a split order for the last one and everyone ended up happy :)

Can you pencil me in for 1 maybe 2 pads? I need to do the math before I commit 100%.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe
Continuing on my Infinity quest. A converted Aleph Nesaie Alke this week



Also I re-did the background on my lightbox so my phone camera would play nice with it. Much happier with the photos now.




BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
Welp, Castrol Super Clean sure does a great job of stripping paint but I found out it also eats through latex gloves and gives you a nice chemical burn with prolonged exposure. This fuckin' hobby, I swear...

The Sisko
Jan 9, 2009

"Whenever there's injustice, wrongs to be righted, innocents to be defended, The Sisko will be there, delivering ass-whooppings."
Just wanted to get some feedback on my ethereal.

A 50S RAYGUN
Aug 22, 2011
you accidentally painted a necron.

It's well-executed, but I can't say I really enjoy the color scheme, which is obviously a matter of personal taste. Other than that, well-done.

VoodooXT
Feb 24, 2006
I want Tong Po! Give me Tong Po!

BlackIronHeart posted:

Welp, Castrol Super Clean sure does a great job of stripping paint but I found out it also eats through latex gloves and gives you a nice chemical burn with prolonged exposure. This fuckin' hobby, I swear...

Yeah, you want nitrile gloves.

Gareth Gobulcoque
Jan 10, 2008



Z the IVth posted:

Continuing on my Infinity quest. A converted Aleph Nesaie Alke this week



Awesome. Well painted infinity is my jam.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 31 days!

BULBASAUR posted:

Coverage is good, but like all paints, some cover better than others. If you expect miracles out of the P3 white, for example, it will let you down. Otherwise you'll get solid coverage and really nice consistency.

I use mostly P3 and Vallejo. P3 for base colors and Vallejo for metallics. I always heard bad things about P3 metallics so I've switched entirely over to Vallejo for that.

That sounds pretty good (coverage-wise, I mean). I eventually plan on getting some Vallejo paints as well, so that way I can pick and choose which paints I want to use for a project. I'd also heard that Vallejo's metallics (I think it was the Model Air ones? The ones that were designed for airbrushing and so have really fine metallic flakes in them) were really good, so I'll grab some of them down the road here.

Also I just got some Vallejo Surface Primer in the mail and I'm very impressed with it. I got the USN Light Ghost Grey and it really goes on quite nicely thus far. :)

Gareth Gobulcoque
Jan 10, 2008



Oath thread xxxpost

Gareth Gobulcoque posted:

OATH COMPLETE









Journal



Theme group for the dreadfleet.

Gareth Gobulcoque fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Sep 28, 2014

Moola
Aug 16, 2006

The Sisko posted:

Just wanted to get some feedback on my ethereal.



I love that colour scheme.

gilljoy
May 3, 2009
Cross posting from the warmachine thread.



bit of a wip of my stormwall, need to mask of the areas I want to be blue and spray the whites.

Post 9-11 User
Apr 14, 2010

The Sisko posted:

Just wanted to get some feedback on my ethereal.



Lookin' good! On the left side of the image his robe has a grey highlight that could used to be cleaned up, it's so much wider than the other lines right now (and uneven). Might want to dot the eyes to make them stand out more.

The Dark Project
Jun 25, 2007

Give it to me straight...
It's worth going through your old boxes and checking them out...

SRM
Jul 10, 2009

~*FeElIn' AweS0mE*~

The Dark Project posted:

It's worth going through your old boxes and checking them out...


I have those first two and they're rad as gently caress. They've been instrumental in painting my retro dudes.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

If you will not serve in combat, you will serve on the firing line!




Best I've got is just the old 2002 and 2003 print catalogues and an old advertising booklet released back when (I think) 3rd or 4th edition was a thing.

The Dark Project
Jun 25, 2007

Give it to me straight...
The two guides on the right are downright ancient (and thin!). Red one is from 1992, blue is from 1989 and has the foreword written by John Blanche :D

I found a ton of old stuff; Double set of Gorka Morka, 3rd ed 40k rulebooks, all my old Warhammer Fantasy rulebooks and Battle Magic books, old Space Hulk rules, Epic 40k rules, some very good condition Citadel Journals, Warhammer General's Compendium, just a ton of stuff. Still more to look through and sort, ready to sell. Hope to make some nice scratch from it all.

Lethemonster
Aug 5, 2009

I was hiding under your bench because I don't want to work out
I've been painting up a tank in wintery camo colours. Doing a practice run before I paint up a baneblade to sell.









Still got a way to go but I do love me some battered tanks.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~
Hey guys feel free to start a new thread, cannibalize whatever you want from this OP. my only request is to make it AWESOME ::hellyeah: :pcgaming: :catdrugs:

The Dark Project
Jun 25, 2007

Give it to me straight...
Good stuff! I am guessing that's a Chinese MBT perchance? I can't tell but the turret is making me think that, but the body is suggesting Abrams for some reason.

If you do a Baneblade in that scheme, it should sell nicely!

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look
Lethemonster that tank is looking super awesome! I can tell you've put many hours into that painted-on chipping!

PaintVagrant we'll make it as awesome as we can :)

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NTRabbit
Aug 15, 2012

i wear this armour to protect myself from the histrionics of hysterical women

bitches




The Dark Project posted:

Good stuff! I am guessing that's a Chinese MBT perchance? I can't tell but the turret is making me think that, but the body is suggesting Abrams for some reason.

It's actually a British Chieftain MBT :mil101:

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