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crime fighting hog
Jun 29, 2006


Rapey Joe Stalin posted:

Probably too late now, but I'd start a bit thick and spray onto some paper or something to test it, then add water as needed. But yeah, 1:1 seems like a good starting ratio for GW.

It worked perfectly. Pics incoming.





Now to wash it black then pick out the details.

crime fighting hog fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Nov 24, 2009

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Angryboot
Oct 23, 2005



Grimey Drawer

crime fighting hog posted:

It worked perfectly. Pics incoming.





Now to wash it black then pick out the details.

Stop making me want to buy more poo poo, drat it!

Looks great; I can't even begin to think how long it'd take to base coat all that by hand.

crime fighting hog
Jun 29, 2006


Angryboot posted:

Stop making me want to buy more poo poo, drat it!

Looks great; I can't even begin to think how long it'd take to base coat all that by hand.

A looooooooong time. I was able to do all that in about 5 minutes. GW paint takes seconds to dry when airbrushed

!amicable
Jan 20, 2007


gently caress I want to buy a few landraiders and drop pods and some terminators. Are there any hot black friday sales going on?

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


crime fighting hog posted:

It worked perfectly. Pics incoming.





Now to wash it black then pick out the details.

Son of a bitch that came out well! I had always hear that it is difficult to airbrush metalics, was it constantly clogging up on you? Did you just use water to thin it? 1:1 ratio?

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

So I managed to get my one Man-o-War Demo Corps grunt primed black. I found that I was laying on very brief spray passes, so it did take me three or four coats, but I lost none of the detail and I was pretty pleased with the way it came out. I managed to accelerate the drying process by placing the priming box I made on top of the vent on the stove in my kitchen nobody was using (so no explosions, just faster drying!)

I lucked out since I was trying to find all the paints I needed - I ended up picking up the P3 Skorne pack in addition to some paints that I already had but hadn't worked with. So now I have:

'Jack Bone, Skorne Red, Greatcoat Grey, Solid Gold, Quicksilver, Thamar Black x2, Morrow White, Pig Iron, Umbral Umber

I hope I'll have enough consciousness and drive to try and start laying down the basecoat tonight. I had some concerns that the superglued joints would become really obnoxious since I am kind of ham-handed when assembling models, but it looks like it turned out for the best (especially on the wrists - those things are the devil).

My paint scheme is probably going to end up something like this for right now:

Black:
Thamar Black basecoat
1:1 Greatcoat Grey + Thamar Black cover most of the black, leaving some in darker areas, undersides of arms, etc.
Thamar Black is this supposed to be a wash for blending?
Greatcoat Grey thin edge highlight
1:1 Greatcoat Grey + Menoth White Highlight final edge highlight on tiniest and highest points

Red: Dunno when I'm going to do the reds, I think it's going to be the last thing.
Skorne Red basecoat
Devlan Mud wash
Skorne Red highlight
2:1 Skorne Red + Iosan Flesh highlight

Gold: I don't really know how the wash process works so I'm going to have to go out on a limb here.
Umbral Umber basecoat
1:1 Pig Iron + Solid Gold wash
Solid Gold - wash again

Metal:
Pig Iron basecoat
Thamar Black wash
Umbral Umber substituted for Khador Red Highlight for rust effect? otherwise armor wash
Pig Iron drybrush highlight
1:1 Pign Iron + Quick Silver edge highlight

Sole.Sushi
Feb 19, 2008

Seaweed!? Get the fuck out!


PaintVagrant posted:

I should make a OP post with all my recipes

Yes, please.

MinionOfCthulhu
Oct 28, 2005

I got this title for free due to my proximity to an idiot who wanted to save $5 on an avatar by having someone else spend $9.95 instead.


!amicable posted:

gently caress I want to buy a few landraiders and drop pods and some terminators. Are there any hot black friday sales going on?

I heard The War Store is doing something, but the site itself doesn't say either way.

MasterSlowPoke
Oct 9, 2005

Our courage will pull us through

The WarStore's sale starts tomorrow night.

rzal
Nov 8, 2007



My niece provided the great backdrop. The base sucks I think, but I'm done.



Click here for the full 798x800 image.

Click here for the full 525x700 image.


crime fighting hog
Jun 29, 2006


Bobx66 posted:

Son of a bitch that came out well! I had always hear that it is difficult to airbrush metalics, was it constantly clogging up on you? Did you just use water to thin it? 1:1 ratio?

1:1 ratio, worked perfectly, no clogs or anything! I just use water right now.

R.S. Gumby
Jul 26, 2007

Utterly useless.

Here's one of my recent projects all done; a finished DBA army of 15mm Trapezuntine Byzantians (IV/34) chilling in front of the Golden Gate of Constantinople. This armylist lacks options, so this is the complete army. Also, half the fun of DBA is building the camps.


Click here for the full 1065x513 image.

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

PV, do you have any wisdom for doing Bronze & Brass effects in a similar way to your awesome Gold effects?

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


ineptmule posted:

PV, do you have any wisdom for doing Bronze & Brass effects in a similar way to your awesome Gold effects?

like dis?



Vindicator
Jul 23, 2007



crime fighting hog posted:

It worked perfectly. Pics incoming.





Now to wash it black then pick out the details.

It's probably been mentioned previously, dude, but I'm lazy. Can you fill me in on what airbrushing equipment you use? Brand names and stuff? That looks like really good work.

crime fighting hog
Jun 29, 2006


Vindicator posted:

It's probably been mentioned previously, dude, but I'm lazy. Can you fill me in on what airbrushing equipment you use? Brand names and stuff? That looks like really good work.

No Problem, I'll post it later when I get back from stuff

crime fighting hog
Jun 29, 2006


Compressor: Paasche D 500: cost about 120 I think

Airbrush: Badger model 150 double action internal mix: Cost 150 but came with a bunch of bottles, needles and different tip sizes. Plus I got 10% it all so saved even more money that way. I was worried that I'd have to get the same brand of compressor and brush but the guy at the store said Badger works with pretty much everything and he said spend more money on your airbrush than your compressor.

It's helped me out so much so far. The drop pod I just sprayed looks pretty decent but I'm gonna start doing some details by hand before I take more pictures. If you have the cash and the amount of models to justify doing it (poo poo tons of vehicles) then I say go for it

I just wish I did Blood Angels or something because I could basecoat my entire army in an hour!

Vindicator
Jul 23, 2007



Awesome, thanks chief. I lost interest in 40k about when the 4th ed Dark Angels codex came out and ruined my Deathwing army (that and too many arguments over the exact length of twelve inches - "So my guys are all out of rapid-fire range but you're in charge range? gently caress you"). Taking a look at the prices at Maelstrom Games makes me want to start a loving tank brigade though, and I figured an airbrush might be a good investment.

Lovely Joe Stalin
Jun 12, 2007

We must finally understand
that of all the precious
capital in the world,
the most precious capital,
the most decisive capital,
is loveliness.
I'm lovely.
Hug me.
I'M LOVELY


Airbrushes make basecoating a doddle. Just remember that to begin with you're going to spend most of your airbrushing time faffing about getting the hang of using/cleaning it, and don't get discouraged. You'll soon be ploughing through stuff.

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

PaintVagrant posted:

like dis?





Yeah, that looks great!

I'm just starting to paint my Dwarfs from Battle for Skull Pass and I don't really want the headache of using GW Golds/Dwarf Bronze/Beaten Brass etc.

Fix
Jul 26, 2005

NEWT THE MOON





Hey PV:

Here is an article on photographing minis using normal (non SLR) digital cameras that in my opinion is OP worthy.

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

Phew, this whole black thing is kinda hard. I think it is also the fact that I don't have adequate lighting and I don't think I'm using the right brush to touch up areas that aren't supposed to have been hit by drybrushing. I find that especially with the way I've posed the Man-O-War, it is very hard to paint in a few areas, both in terms of maneuvering to get the brush there and getting an even coat.

I did however get to try out this Armor Wash stuff. It's badass.

landis
Jun 16, 2003

Until the end.


Fix posted:

Hey PV:

Here is an article on photographing minis using normal (non SLR) digital cameras that in my opinion is OP worthy.
That is an excellent article, and should be read by anyone looking to improve their pictures with standard digital cameras.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


Bronze:

boltgun
sepia
sepia

Aranan
May 21, 2007

Release the Kraken


PaintVagrant posted:

Bronze:

boltgun
sepia
sepia

gold: mithril, sepia, sepia?

crime fighting hog
Jun 29, 2006


Aranan posted:

gold: mithril, sepia, sepia?

Sepia really is the best wash for metal qtiyd

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

crime fighting hog posted:

Sepia really is the best wash for metal qtiyd

Quoting pre-emptively as I've not tried it yet

Kestral
Nov 24, 2000

Forum Veteran

I submit for your consideration one Hive Fleet Kraken Termagant.







I'll admit right now that I'm not pleased with the way it turned out: the reds aren't nearly bright enough, the wash around the joints turned into a pale, chalky grey-brown from its original rich yellow-brown, the gloss coat for the carapace hasn't gone on yet, and there's dozens of tiny little mistakes that I didn't even notice until I took a good look at the pictures; the skin is probably the only thing I'm happy with -- it's actually a couple of shades closer to white than in these pictures. That said, it feels pretty decent for my first serious attempt at a tabletop-quality mini. The second generation of this guy is coming along better, but there's still a lot of room for improvement.

For reference, this is generally what I was going for:



Any thoughts on how I can improve?

For one thing, I need a basing scheme for this army. I have a few vague ideas for that, maybe something wetly organic or black ash / black sand scattered with crystals, but nothing has really clicked yet. Any thoughts on what would work with this scheme other than grass and dried plants?

I'll also take any suggestions on how to pull this off more efficiently on an army-wide scale. The guide that I've been following was written back in '06, before the advent of Foundation colors and the death of Citadel inks, and the author hasn't done much experimenting since according to the correspondence I've had with him over on the Tyranid Hive.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


Aranan posted:

gold: mithril, sepia, sepia?

yup

Aranan
May 21, 2007

Release the Kraken


Kestral posted:

I submit for your consideration one Hive Fleet Kraken Termagant.



I think it looks pretty cool. If you're not happy with the red, just use a lighter red as another highlight on the carapace and you're good to go!

PV: That's pretty awesome. Thanks.

crime fighting hog
Jun 29, 2006





http://forums.eternityofwar.com/sho...76&postcount=68

LintMan
Mar 12, 2006
Be seening you

Here is the first two bases of Perry French.



stabbington
Sep 1, 2007

It doesn't feel right to kill an unarmed man... but I'll get over it.


Anyone have thoughts on these basing kits? They're obviously more expensive than going out and buying all that poo poo in bulk, but having it all around in a nice little package could be handy, and potentially more cost-effective in terms of ingredients that can potentially go bad on you. I don't think you could run through one of those big loving jars (the only size they sell) of GAC texture gel even if you were basing an entire army, for one thing.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


stabbington posted:

Anyone have thoughts on these basing kits? They're obviously more expensive than going out and buying all that poo poo in bulk, but having it all around in a nice little package could be handy, and potentially more cost-effective in terms of ingredients that can potentially go bad on you. I don't think you could run through one of those big loving jars (the only size they sell) of GAC texture gel even if you were basing an entire army, for one thing.

I havent bought one, but they look like a great deal to me.

Babby Sathanas
May 16, 2006

bearbating is now adorable


I bought one last week 'cos they looked sweet but it hasn't arrived yet. I'll let you know how it is when it does!

KingMob
Feb 12, 2004
Et In Arcadia Ego

stabbington posted:

Anyone have thoughts on these basing kits? They're obviously more expensive than going out and buying all that poo poo in bulk, but having it all around in a nice little package could be handy, and potentially more cost-effective in terms of ingredients that can potentially go bad on you. I don't think you could run through one of those big loving jars (the only size they sell) of GAC texture gel even if you were basing an entire army, for one thing.

I bought a couple earlier this year and they've worked pretty well. Mind you, my model work is terribly slow, so your mileage may vary.

Captain Scurvy
May 29, 2009


Aranan posted:

gold: mithril, sepia, sepia?

depends on what type of gold your looking for, ive found that if you want a much more burnished look do sepia then drybrush burnished gold lightly and it gives it a kind of shine. I wanna post some pics of my just finished chapter champ tomorrow as he litterally took me a freaking week to paint.

Nessus
Dec 22, 2003

I still can't believe they cast Spock as me. Spock! Can you imagine?

Of course, he was missing a few things.





I looked through most of the thread and some online resources but I've never been able to figure out or discover - what is it that I am supposed to thin my paints with?! But then I found out, Water.

But how much water? What's a good size dish for them? I stole some plastic ramekins but they seem like they'd only be worth it for situations where I'm coloring like fifty mans.

What is a good proportion to thin paints? The best I have heard is "a milky consistency" which is hard to tell when you're dealing with Pig Iron from P3

stabbington
Sep 1, 2007

It doesn't feel right to kill an unarmed man... but I'll get over it.


Basecoat:


Layers n' poo poo:


As for a mixing vessel, the pro thing to do is whack together a wet palette with a cheap bit of tupperware, a sponge, a bit of paper towel, and some parchment paper (not waxed paper). Sponge goes into the bottom of the container, fill up with water about 3/4 of the way up the sponge, wet the paper towel and press it down on top of the sponge, then cut a bit of parchment just slightly smaller than the sponge layer and press it down on top of the paper towel, making sure that it sticks and doesn't have any air bubbles (areas with air in them will dry out and that's not awesome). After that, mix your paints on top of the parchment - they'll dry out way slower than they would with just a plastic dish or something. Store in the fridge if you're not done using your mixed colors when you're done painting for the time being, they'll keep surprisingly well. Wash the thing out every couple of weeks (no need to change the parchment until it becomes entirely unusable - I actually find that it gets better and better the more times you rinse it).

If you're not feeling crafty, a simple mixing tray will run you like five bucks tops.

I tend to thin my paints with a combo of water, retarder, and flow aid, but that's because I have huge-rear end jugs of the stuff sitting around from an art class I took a couple years back, they're strictly optional.

e: Just picked up a new can of GW primer (was the only stuff I could get my hands on, unfortunately) but holy poo poo, it might actually be worth the money now? Maybe it's just an exceptional batch or something, but this stuff is way better than it was the last time I tried it. Beats the hell out of duplicolor for adhesion/detail preservation/smoothness, that's for sure.

stabbington fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Nov 29, 2009

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PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


Nessus posted:

I looked through most of the thread and some online resources but I've never been able to figure out or discover - what is it that I am supposed to thin my paints with?! But then I found out, Water.

But how much water? What's a good size dish for them? I stole some plastic ramekins but they seem like they'd only be worth it for situations where I'm coloring like fifty mans.

What is a good proportion to thin paints? The best I have heard is "a milky consistency" which is hard to tell when you're dealing with Pig Iron from P3

Those little dimpled tray things for painting work just fine. I use that and a wet palette when Im blending.

The dimple tray things are at any craft store where the paints are, for .99

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