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Fix posted:That sounds like an interesting way to go about it. Did you take any WIP shots? Just the images on the last page, which is a shot of the Carnifex with the greenstuff and stones glued and ready for painting. It really was just a hodge-podge of textures and fillers that I knew would work out.
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Jan 11, 2010 02:12
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Whoops. Don't know how I missed seeing that big gross thing. Nice work.
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Jan 11, 2010 02:14
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PierreTheMime posted:It was one column cut-out piece of army case foam, a few random flakes of insulation and enough greenstuff to flatten out and cover. Then it was covered in small stones and a thin layer of glue to both seal it and smooth out any fingerprints I may have left. Very little greenstuff was used. Requesting Tutorial when you do Tervigon 2. I have some sniperfex that need to be re-purposed.
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Jan 11, 2010 02:19
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C&C needed please. This is my first model or a new plague marine army. I was trying to go for a heresy look, like these are the guys who just made the jump into chaos. I started with the pre-heresy Deathguard and went from there. I still want to get some pre-heresy decals for the shoulder pads. Please ignore the mold lines on the gun/arm i thought I had hit them all and then noticed them after priming. Since this is just a test I'll be redoing the model and I'll get them then.  Click here for the full 634x860 image.  Click here for the full 748x833 image.  Click here for the full 677x853 image. Mainly i think this one turned out a bit too clean. I'd like to get into GSing more ill nurgley poo poo on these guys, but I wanted to see how the color scheme worked first.
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Jan 11, 2010 05:12
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I like the color scheme, but I don't like the splotchyness on the white.
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Jan 11, 2010 05:19
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White is particularly hard to accurately paint worn or dirty in my opinion. I just started a Word Bearers army (will be posting pictures soon-ish), and I decided to go for a 10,000-year-old-worn look, try painting the white everywhere, then go over the deep crevices and edges with a mix of something. poo poo, that's hard. Maybe PV or someone else can help a little more...
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Jan 11, 2010 06:45
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In my experience, the best way to do aged white is to reference either a dirty whitewashed wall (grime creeping up from the bottom, etc) or elephant tusks - aging ivory will generally look cooler than grimy white.
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Jan 11, 2010 06:57
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Anphrax posted:White is particularly hard to accurately paint worn or dirty in my opinion. I just started a Word Bearers army (will be posting pictures soon-ish), and I decided to go for a 10,000-year-old-worn look, try painting the white everywhere, then go over the deep crevices and edges with a mix of something. poo poo, that's hard. Maybe PV or someone else can help a little more... Salt crust weathering will be your best friend for this endeavor. But, even then, you'd have to think that Word Bearers wouldn't let their armor go to poo poo even over 10,000 years. Reworking of damaged pieces, repainting and all-out replacement would be a common thing. If you wanted to make it apparent that the armor and weapons were 10k+ years old, weathering might not be so effective as far as painting goes, but perhaps distressing the armor and model itself. Adding pits, scrapes, cuts with a knife and drill--superficial ones--would add a good depth of wear, and combine that with subtle weathering, like bare metal, light rust, and faded paint, perhaps even going so far as to painting a dark, dirty later under a brighter, newer one to show re-painting.
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Jan 11, 2010 07:09
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Sole.Sushi posted:Salt crust weathering will be your best friend for this endeavor. But, even then, you'd have to think that Word Bearers wouldn't let their armor go to poo poo even over 10,000 years. Reworking of damaged pieces, repainting and all-out replacement would be a common thing. If you wanted to make it apparent that the armor and weapons were 10k+ years old, weathering might not be so effective as far as painting goes, but perhaps distressing the armor and model itself. Adding pits, scrapes, cuts with a knife and drill--superficial ones--would add a good depth of wear, and combine that with subtle weathering, like bare metal, light rust, and faded paint, perhaps even going so far as to painting a dark, dirty later under a brighter, newer one to show re-painting. Thanks for the suggestion, I think I have a method down right now. But we will see how they turn out in photos 
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Jan 11, 2010 07:51
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Fix posted:I'd like to hear what others do to break up painters' block. I haven't painted anything in nearly a month thanks to traveling, and looking at the unfinished project on my desk, I just can't bring myself to leap right back into it. It's all assembly line boring troops. I know people have already replied to this but I'm late to the party and figured I'd throw in my 2 cents anyway. Basically, the only way I can get out of painters block is to have two, three, maybe even four painting projects on the go at once. It's great when you're in the swing of things, to just chop and change around as and when you like it. It also helps keep you focused on painting when you have to wait for something to dry. Just slapped ink all over a bunch of space marines? No problem, just move them aside and get on with the dark elves  Music and/or DVD commentary tracks help if you haven't got another project to work on. Just listen and paint.. the sooner it's done the sooner you don't have to worry about how to slog through painting the boots on 20 dark elves. Anphrax posted:Word Bearers army 'sup 'the best traitor legion ever' buddy  Danger - Octopus! posted:Plenty of scale modellers prime with various brands of spray paint that are intended for spraying cars, so if there's any of that around you're probably good. Just test it first to see if it comes out too thick. Halfords car primer user checking in
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Jan 11, 2010 10:07
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Maybe I should keep the weathering more localized then? Add a few more imperfections to the armor and keep the grime/splotchy parts there while leaving the rest clean?
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Jan 11, 2010 11:20
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While sat here at work with little to do i just had a brainstorm. I work in an architects office with enough modelling supplies to make pretty much anything. While i've yet to get an army together (enjoy the creative rather than the play side of the hobby) i was thinking of ways i could display my work. I could just leave it scattered around my house... or... in my undersized garage im thinking i'm gonna set up a table. I'm gonna get some sections of A1 (841mm x 594mm) foamcore board, cover it in green felt (we have the stuff for modelling landscapes), then with some foam block i can carve up some hills, cliffs, craters, lakes, rocks etc. Paint and flock all the scenery and then I can either glue this stuff in place and make the boards so they can be arranged in different positions much like the ones GW offer, or just leave all the accessory pieces 'loose' so i can rearrange them on one big playing surface. Now all that remains is getting the supplies out of the office... Maybe this weekend... I'll be sure to keep a photo diary of the work when i do make this playing surface as i reckon if you were buying these supplies it would cost maybe £50 tops instead of £150 for the 4 premade tiles you can get from GW.
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Jan 11, 2010 15:45
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enri posted:'sup 'the best traitor legion ever' buddy Screenshot or it didn't happen 
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Jan 11, 2010 17:25
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PaintVagrant posted:Those loving stringy tab things. I dont know how they changed their metal casting process, or there is some rational reason for it, but they are the only models ive ever seen with flash like this Broken Loose posted:And now, for my personal favorite, the red "Martian dreadclaw" design.
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Jan 11, 2010 21:06
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Anyone here want a CSM demon prince? It's got excess glue on it here and there and inexplicably has two right hands and no left hand. I got it in the first lot of stuff I got off craigslist, but I don't feel like ebaying it. Say, $8 shipped, mostly to cover shipping?
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Jan 11, 2010 22:53
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Fyrbrand posted:Anyone here want a CSM demon prince? It's got excess glue on it here and there and inexplicably has two right hands and no left hand. I got it in the first lot of stuff I got off craigslist, but I don't feel like ebaying it. Say, $8 shipped, mostly to cover shipping? I just bought one! 
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Jan 11, 2010 22:57
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Fyrbrand posted:Anyone here want a CSM demon prince? It's got excess glue on it here and there and inexplicably has two right hands and no left hand. I got it in the first lot of stuff I got off craigslist, but I don't feel like ebaying it. Say, $8 shipped, mostly to cover shipping? Done, can you get PM's?
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Jan 11, 2010 23:47
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CyberLord XP posted:Done, can you get PM's? Sure can. PM me your info and I can hopefully get it out tomorrow.
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Jan 11, 2010 23:52
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Hey guys, since I seem to love making threads in TGD, here is another one: Non-GW/PP/historical waragming http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3253037 A place to discuss all those cool (non historical) games that arent quite as mainstream as warhammer or warmachine
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Jan 12, 2010 01:38
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I've decided to get off my rear end and start assembling some of the massive stockpile I have. So I slapped together some Scouts-Count-As-IG-Vets for my Mentors-led Guard: The still need some cleaning up (like the Lightning Claw on the sarge), but I think they're pretty good for being cobbled together from three different boxes.
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Jan 12, 2010 02:10
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Cthulu Carl posted:I've decided to get off my rear end and start assembling some of the massive stockpile I have. So I slapped together some Scouts-Count-As-IG-Vets for my Mentors-led Guard: I don't know what you can do to fix the lightning claw one but it looks terrible. You'll have to file it down or something, maybe slap a shoulder pad over it if you can find one
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Jan 12, 2010 03:30
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Vets can't even take lightning claws. And the dudes with the one catachan arm and one scout arm look pretty off.
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Jan 12, 2010 04:14
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Space marine scout heads are the worst heads
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Jan 12, 2010 04:15
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Ok so after a few tries I think I'm getting the hang of this yellow, they look more yellow and less mac and cheese. Here's a few pictures of what I've done so far, thoughts and suggestions would be nice.   This is what I was going for.
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Jan 12, 2010 04:18
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Kudos for having the courage to do a yellow quartered scheme, I like it. I'm not thrilled by the Black bolter casing, though I don't know what color would be better. Maybe the same red used in the eyes?Fyrbrand posted:Space marine scout heads are the worst heads They don't look too bad on Catachans. Incidentally, Catachan heads look great on Scouts.
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Jan 12, 2010 04:27
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I was going to suggest red bolter casings too. The black is definitely not working.
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Jan 12, 2010 04:34
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3rding red bolter casings. I'd also suggest bleached bone washed with sepia for the chest eagles.
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Jan 12, 2010 06:22
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Does anyone know if you can add a touch of green paint / wash / ink to GW's water effects to get a more swamp water look to the finish of will that mess up the curing process and end up with a goopy mess?
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Jan 12, 2010 15:34
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dpack_1 posted:Does anyone know if you can add a touch of green paint / wash / ink to GW's water effects to get a more swamp water look to the finish of will that mess up the curing process and end up with a goopy mess? You can, but do a few experiments first. You only need the slightest hint of colour in most cases.
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Jan 12, 2010 15:39
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Retook photos of the Avatar of Menoth     My Tomb Kings:              
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Jan 12, 2010 15:43
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enri posted:You can, but do a few experiments first. You only need the slightest hint of colour in most cases. what would be best to use to change the colour? a thin paint, inks, washes or something outside the box like food colouring? or should i just test it all in small test pots to find the results i'm looking for?
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Jan 12, 2010 15:43
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dpack_1 posted:what would be best to use to change the colour? a thin paint, inks, washes or something outside the box like food colouring? or should i just test it all in small test pots to find the results i'm looking for? Definitely do a few sample test pots. I've only ever used inks to be honest, this is what made me try it: http://www.hirstarts.com/tips17/tips17.html#fountain Scroll down a short ways, replace 'envirotex lite' with 'water effects' and you'll get much the same results, there or thereabouts.
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Jan 12, 2010 16:02
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Those scorpions are sweet looking
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Jan 12, 2010 16:18
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enri posted:Definitely do a few sample test pots. I've only ever used inks to be honest, this is what made me try it: http://www.hirstarts.com/tips17/tips17.html#fountain ok well that is pretty drat amazing! reason i'm asking is my friend is just about to go and buy a VC zombie dragon and i was thinking of a custom swamp/bog/peat like base for the model and obviously clear blue water wouldnt suit the idea.
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Jan 12, 2010 16:45
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I R SMART LIKE ROCK posted:My Tomb Kings:
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Jan 12, 2010 17:35
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Normally I'm really anal about painting, but I've got horrible painter's block and I'm considering brute-forcing the green skin on my Gaunts, because it's the bit that I hate doing. The carapace would remain the same. Current thoughts are to give the skin a coat of Camo Green, carefully paint the recesses with Coat D'arms Green Ink, then apply an all-over coat of Thrakka Green wash, with application of final Camo Green edging. Thoughts? For reference, here's what the current ones look like (basecoat Catachan Green with Old Green Ink, then highlighted up from Catachan Green to Cammo Green) 
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Jan 12, 2010 17:36
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crime fighting hog posted:I don't know what you can do to fix the lightning claw one but it looks terrible. You'll have to file it down or something, maybe slap a shoulder pad over it if you can find one That was actually one of the things that bugged me about him. No pics yet, but I trimmed down the shoulder on the Lightning Claw arm. Unfortunately, the SM shoulder pads I have don't fit that great. Might have to do some pinning. I suppose since the army is going to be modeled after the Armageddon Ork Hunters, I could give him an Ork shoulder pad as a trophy. I'll see about getting pics of both looks later. Failing that, it's all just super glue, so I can always start over.
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Jan 12, 2010 18:10
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Lightning claws just never seem to look good on anything not in terminator armor 
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Jan 12, 2010 18:15
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PaintVagrant posted:Lightning claws just never seem to look good on anything not in terminator armor This is what i'm finding... What's the best way to break apart super glue bonds again? Put it in the freezer for a bit?
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Jan 12, 2010 18:25
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Cthulu Carl posted:This is what i'm finding... What's the best way to break apart super glue bonds again? Put it in the freezer for a bit? If it's metal, soaking it in nail polish remover worked for me. I don't think leaving plastic in would be safe though.
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Jan 12, 2010 19:15
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