|
Nthing the Templars looking great. Now you just need some nice detail on the bases to compliment it. I think some tan/brown ground would do great.
|
#
¿
Oct 30, 2009 23:42
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 07:32 |
|
|
Kestral posted:My current best guess - currently untested until after Halloween when I have time to experiment again - as taken from my personal notes on how to paint this style: Those colors look about right. Since you are going for a mostly natural earthy colored scheme I recommend avoiding pure black and white. Go with a real deep brown, perhaps Schorched Brown with a little bit of black in it for the carapace. Even if it is almost black there will still be a slight difference. It will also be easier to blend/fade up to the red.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 31, 2009 00:44
|
|
|
MasterSlowPoke posted:
What a coincidence - I was practicing some painting techniques on some of the gnolls from the Chainmail starter set which includes that knight. I thought that knight's face was so terrible that I didn't even bother assembling it for a practice piece.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 2, 2009 19:24
|
|
|
I was looking at some of Les's Awesomepaintjob videos and in one of them he busted out some dry pigments with rubbing alcohol for rust and weathering effects. His comments mention 90% isopropyl alcohol but all I can find in my area is 70% isopropyl alcohol. Does anyone have any idea what difference that would make?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 2, 2009 23:35
|
|
|
Iron Squid posted:What's the ratio of paint to water, typically? I usually work with a 2:1 ratio of paint to water. I use a bottle containing distilled water pre-mixed with some flow-aid.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 8, 2009 19:30
|
|
|
Yog-Sothoth posted:crossposted from gbs, finished magnetizing my bell/furnace kit! Leaving the seer separate until he's painted Have you considered upgrading to Pro today?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 9, 2009 19:16
|
|
|
It looks like you're holding the can way too close to me.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 11, 2009 22:13
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:Ive got a separate garage, so that wont be an issue. I guess the issue is all the poo poo in there that I dont want to cover in spray primer, oops I have this large plastic tarp I bought at home depot. I think this was it but I can't be certain, I recall it being cheaper but it was a while ago. I just toss it over everything then put my painting box on top of it. Works like a charm. My empty bottles finally arrived. I ordered the 12 pack of empty Vallejo bottles, these ones. What a difference it makes. Mixing and blending is so much easier with these bottles. If you're still using GW/Privateer Press pots you really owe it to yourself to order these bottles the next time you go shopping online.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 15, 2009 19:12
|
|
|
Morning posted:http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=32050 If you want really thin or transparent layers of paint you'll want to use some glazing medium to hold it together. It'll cost $8-$11 USD at a paint or craft store. It's awesome stuff. It lets you get very thin or transparent colors without needing to worry about water marks or the paint breaking apart. Les shows how he uses it in one of his painting tutorials. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xm2MY_w2Dsg
|
|
#
¿
Dec 22, 2009 19:40
|
|
|
I couldn't get to sleep on Sunday night and decided to finally get around to the babyphant conversion of a carnifex that I 'started' 3 years ago. 'Started' consisted of cutting off a single hoof on one of the fex's feet and putting everything back in the box. After a night of frenzied chopping, sawing and clipping I ended up with this at 5am. It was originally inspired by Moloch's babyphant on his website but I decided I wanted something more spindly. Here he is pre-greenstuff with a paint-test guant for scale. I'm pretty happy with him now, the breakthrough for me was when I decided that I needed to extend the first joint of his arms and the 2nd joint of his legs and then everything came together the way I envisioned it. What's left (aside from the obvious greenstuff in the joints) is to figure out how I am going to curve it's tail under the body and to create some ball sockets for the weapons closer to the underside of it's body. I might also do some work to it's head/neck so I can get it to point forward instead of down.    Simple Green is awesome... for metal models. Paint and primer slides right off. The primer on my plastic models stubbornly refuses to come off and I use my toothbrush so much that I am worried about wearing down the plastic 
|
|
#
¿
Dec 23, 2009 22:23
|
|
|
Broken Loose posted:Scything talons as fex legs looks dumb because they weigh 14 tons and the talons are super thin. They have hooves because nothing else can hold them up. You would hate the biotitan that the conversion is based on then. It makes just as little sense because it would weigh several hundred (or thousands?) of tons more and all of its weight is still directed to those four tips. You're right that it makes no sense as an effective means of movement but I'm trying to adhere to the visual look of the titan. 
|
|
#
¿
Dec 24, 2009 07:49
|
|
|
I've decided to convert my babyphant carnifex into a tyrannofex, on the basis that I might actually use the tyranno in a 1500pt list. Any ideas on what I could use as a starting point for the big honkin' gun? I don't trust my greenstuff skills enough to do anything beyond filling in joints and simple extensions. 
|
|
#
¿
Jan 15, 2010 19:00
|
|
|
GW has a smallish update with some tyranid conversions. The only interesting one was making a Doom of Malan'tai using the body from one of the old Epic 40,000 Hierodule Bio-Titans. I think it looks good, unfortunately that model looks like it's next to impossible to obtain nowadays.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 18, 2010 19:43
|
|
|
Slowly working on my Trygon. This thing is a bitch to paint, so much model, so much more to paint Working up the 'skin' on the head to Menoth White Highlight atm. 
|
|
#
¿
Jan 19, 2010 07:16
|
|
|
Yeah, I'm pretty happy with how he's coming out. The camera really doesn't pick up the shading on the orange very well, I need to set up a lightbox. Here's the only model with a similar scheme that I managed to finish from my previous attempt at a nid army, back when the 4e codex was released in '04 I think. I bought a ton of units, managed to paint the tyrant and then my attention wandered and I didn't finish painting any other models. This time I decided to focus a little more on natural colors. I really didn't like the purple shading or the black/red bones that I used on the Tyrant. He's since been stripped and he won't be repainted until after I get the units for my 1000 point list painted.  Ancient Biovore (drill ur barrels) sneaking into the frame. He's one of several relics from my attempt to put together a tyranid army back in 2e. I'm sensing a theme here 
|
|
#
¿
Jan 19, 2010 08:29
|
|
|
enri posted:Any chances of a tutorial on how you've done the non-carapace areas once you're finished? It's pretty simple (in theory). Prime model. Paint bleached bone, about a 2:3 ratio of water to paint. Make sure to get into the recesses too. Let dry. Apply Gryphonne Sepia wash liberally. Let dry. Mix up some watered down bleached bone, about 1:1 ratio of water to paint or higher. You'll want to cover the raised areas and some of the shallower recesses. Brush technique is important here, it takes a little bit of practice to find out how to get a nice even spread. What I do is dip my brush in the paint, unload some of the water on a napkin (just lay the tip of the brush against it and let the excess water bleed onto the napkin). Then I paint with the tip of the brush, but mentally it's more like you are just spreading the water around rather than laying paint down. The trick to this is that the water will spread the paint around a little bit and even the surface out, removing brush strokes. You do have to watch for the paint to pool in some recesses though, I keep a dry brush nearby to scoop that up. Another thing to watch out for is for the paint in your mixing pallete to begin to dry out, you'll need to add more water when that starts to happen. In that photo I was on my 2nd and final coat of bleached bone. Next I plan to paint with a 50:50 mix of bleached bone/menoth white highlight, thinned down just as much as before. I might stop there if I am satisfied with it, or I might add a final layer of white highlight. Aranan posted:I generally don't like anything orange, but that bug looks pretty. I like you focus on the more "natural" colors compared to the red/black/purple of your tyrant with the same orange chitin. Keep it up and show us more! Planning to paint that old rear end biovore? Of course. I really can't stand the newer biovore models tbh. Every time I see one I think it's this big mishappen  ape smiling at me. The Pyrovore looks great though. I've heard they are redoing the biovore model soon, hopefully it will look more like the pyro. I have a bunch of old models I'm trying to find some use for. I had converted the old screamer killer fex into a dakkafex, I was pondering using the old zoanthrope for the DOOM OF MALAN'TAI but I just can't, he's simply too retarded looking. I have a squad of old warriors - I am contemplating using them as Tyranid Primes but they look kind of dorky too.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 19, 2010 19:42
|
|
|
Zarkov Cortez posted:How about for your carapace Carapace was done with Glazing Medium and Flow-Aid. I didn't wet blend since there was so much surface to paint that I was worried that my paints would dry out. And any excuse to play with paint mediums is a good one.  On a smaller model I would probably just wet blend.Glazing Medium lets you make the paint more transparent without it breaking apart or being too watery. It's easy to use, just mix it in with your paint until you are satisfied. Flow aid does what it says, it breaks up the surface tension of the paint and makes it flow more easily. If you want speckled dots or patterns on the shell, paint them now, right on the primer. I'd recommend a bestial brown. Base with Blazing Orange, thinned to your preference. I usually do 2:3 water to paint as a standard. It's important to get a nice, even coat here. Sometimes on a base coat I can get away with it being sloppy or splotchy because I plan to wash over it but that doesn't happen here. I had to do around 4 layers because my priming job was inconsistent. On the positive side it helped fill in the seams that I didn't catch with greenstuff. If you painted any patterns on the shell they should still show through.Mix in some yellow, maybe 3:1 of orange to yellow, or alternatively Fiery Orange. Then I formed a glaze with some Glazing Medium and I added some Flow-Aid. I'm not sure what the precise amounts of each that I used, it's sort of an eyeball process. I test it on paper and see it is transparent enough. I brush it on from about the halfway mark on the shell down to the edge. The direction you paint is important because the trailing edge of the brush stroke will have the most paint, the leading edge the least. I do some minor touching up if necessary while it is still fresh. The flow aid makes it a little tacky ( I think I grabbed my undiluted bottle by accident) so once it beings to dry past a certain point you don't want to touch it with your brush or fingers. I let it dry with the edge that is going to be yellow pointing down so gravity will do some of my blending work for me. I let it dry and repeat the process again, with a mix of 1:3 yellow to orange (or Golden Yellow) and start at the 1/4 mark. Starting here I make sure to go around the chips at the edge of the carapace so they will stand out - I don't want the brighter color paint to seep down into them. I want them to remain a nice and bold orange. Then I did it one more time with straight yellow along the bottom edge of the shell. The orange to yellow was nicely shaded except at the very edge was a little sharp so I decided to do striping lines at the edge to break it up. This was just watered down yellow. One side effect of the glazing medium is that the carapace has a glossy sheen on half of it. This isn't a problem for me as I plan on applying a gloss varnish to the carapace. You could likewise hit it with some dullcoat and that should take care of that. It worked very nicely on the large plates but I'm not really satisfied with the results on the smaller pieces like on the scything talons. The blending got a little sloppy near the end of the tail as well due to a lack of a good way to actually reach the plates with my brush. I believe that the striping should help with that though. ---- I started cutting out my Space Hulk Genestealers last night and now I feel compelled to ditch the sand/rocks base (original plan was to have thin rocks angled outwards to give the impression of a crater) and go with a space ship/hulk themed base. I don't think tech is done enough since it's so easy to paint rocks/ground. Plus the idea of a Trygon bursting through the floor of a space station is pretty priceless. I'm not really sure how I would go about doing it though. right now I'm thinking about bent I beams and bent tiles forming a ring around the Trygon. I'm not sure about that, though. If he burst up out of the floor he wouldn't be sitting in the hole, since the hole would have to be big enough and deep enough to accommodate him. But I do want to give some impression that this is what the Trygon did. Any ideas or suggestions?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 19, 2010 23:07
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:Trygon has a tail right? Have a large access hatch thrown back & edges torn apart, majority of trygon through the hatch, tail wrapped around a large beam/column. Build the base up about 25mm in depth. I'm in the Seattle area. Trygon wrapped around a beam or column tilted at an angle could work. I might work up some sketches. Painted the head up to bonewhite/menoth white. I might keep it there and reserve pure menoth white for the highlights. I just need to touch up the teeth, eyes and the inside of the mouth and the head is done. I decided to try my hand at greenstuff again. Turns out it's a lot easier to do when you wet it with some water.  My Carnifex->Tyrannofex now has complete limbs with joints. Now just to figure out what I'm going to do for the head and find/design a bigass gun for him.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 20, 2010 10:39
|
|
|
Yeah, I have noticed that as well. I was surprised and disappointed at the amount of excess flash and spiky bits on the Hive Guard I bought. The model was even slightly misaligned and took a LOT of work to clean up. I've bought a bunch of pewter models from other companies and none of them were even close in terms of flash.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2010 20:29
|
|
|
Varnish Question. If I hit the model with a layer of dullcoat and then touch up some parts of it with a brush on gloss varnish will the glossy portion look any different than if I just put the gloss varnish on with no dullcoat? Is there any interaction with how the light reacts with the layers beneath it? Gonna go with glossy carapaces on my nids.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 25, 2010 21:44
|
|
|
Making slow progress on my Trygon. I have only worked on it a single day this week. The main body is Bleached Bone with a liberal wash of Gryphonne Sepeia, followed up by thin layers of Bleached Bone and then a 50:50 mix of Bleached Bone and Menoth White Hilight. Head is pretty much done except for the side jaw pieces. He had a little accident when I was taking him off of his handling stand and ended up chipping away the paint + primer on those two pincers. Working on the bone parts of the upper torso now.Orange/yellow really doesn't show up well at all with my lighting setup. Everything shows up yellow/orangish because of my supbar setup and I think it loses a lot of detail in those colors when I go through color correction to get it looking neutral. Suffice to say the orange-yellow blend looks a lot better in person.  Here is a back shot. I originally had some piping type stuff jammed into the chimney stacks but I decided it looked horrible so I pried it out. I will attempt to greenstuff a replacement in there some day soon.  Unfortunately I'm at the spot where I am recognizing all of the mistakes and flaws in my paintjob and am tempted to strip and start over. I originally started painting this guy with the intention of entering him in a painting contest to be held the Sunday after the codex was released (only a single day to paint!) but that obviously didn't work out for me. Didn't stop me from staying up till 6am trying to make it work, and I think the painting suffered from the sleep deprived semi-rushed job.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 30, 2010 09:14
|
|
|
I decided to take some more pictures of some of the stuff I've done recently. Some of it works. First up is some D&D things I painted for the game I play in. It was my first re-entry into this mini painting thing in about 5 years, when I painted a hive tyrant and didn't manage anything else. I have apparently forgotten EVERYTHING about painting minis in that 5 years.  First batch of kobolds I painted. It's sloppy.  I got better with a little practice. This was my attempt at playing around with a mostly monochromatic scheme, remembering how awesome washes are and my first stab at playing with glaze medium.   Smug Kobold is  as hell. He came out real nice. The cloak was an experiment after I read about 'dirty water'. Ultra thinned down black ink wash. Repeat many times. It produced a very interesting texture on the back of the cloak. There is some rudimetery lighting going on.  Painted this guy for one of the D&D players a few weeks ago. He came out average. I still have trouble building up blue to a lighter shade. I need to remember to work backwards, start with the lightest shade of blue that I want and add black/deeper blues to get down to the base color.  Genstealery Cultist I had laying around. Painting experiment for various things. Not entirely successful but I managed to reteach myself several things.   I was curious what a wraithbone color dark eldar would look like after hearing that the codex would be redone soon. I couldn't find any pictures on the web so I stripped down a sybarite and painted it up. Futile attempt at glowing eyes. I like it, it's better than GRIM AND SPIKEY AND SO MUCH ANGUISH. Hey, what's in this box.  NO. Do not look in there! In there lies the shame of my past! OF ALL OF OUR PASTS! THE FORGOTTEN MODELS OF OUR PAST.  Deathwing more like CHUNKWING  Lookit that loving inquisitor librarian with his bionic leg. 2e had rules for bionic legs. And it's trimmed with gold because he's a mother loving pimp. A gimp pimp. And he teleported around with a power sword.  (Seriously 2e heroes were pretty hilarious with the wargear and powers you could get.) A power sword held in a power FIST! That's twice the power man! And he has blood on the power fist because he punched a dude or something. I was convertin' even with my first models. That's how pro I was at this hobby.  Check out that blood it's like his banner is BLEEDING MAN it's loving GRIMDARK as hell. Ignore that green on his cloak I'll just paint another layer of white over it. Or three layers. It'll go fine with the ten or so layers of unthinned paint on the model already. White, amirite?  "I thought you were playing Dark Angels, why is that guy blue?" "Ravenwing! The book says they wear blue." "Why isn't he in a Land Speeder or bike?" I don't loving know. And I have no idea how I managed to get flock on his loving shoulder pad of all things. That's nowhere near the base! But here's a land speeder. (It is actually not too bad except for the layer of dust)  Oh look a Rhino.    These terminators were probably the 'best painted' things in my army. Why are they green instead of white? I DUNNO. Nothing in my DORK ANGELS army is consistent or correct! Come to think of it I only played a single game with this army. It was against 2e Harlequins. I didn't get a single kill. Harlequin still haunt me to this day.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 30, 2010 11:02
|
|
|
Fyrbrand posted:The artist specifically chose to do slightly different shades of yellow to look more realistic. I guess that could make sense, if you figure weathered armor will slowly get lighter or whatever. Or he could be justifying his laziness, I dunno. Yeah, the only flaws are the mold lines and the decals need some dirtying up. Everything else is pretty boss and I would be proud if I had an army like that I could bust out in games.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 4, 2010 21:12
|
|
|
My trick for painting white or bleached bone is to really thin it down with some flow-aid mix, at least 3:2 flow-aid/water to paint, maybe even going up to 4:2. It goes on very watery, you have to be careful around edges and recesses so it doesn't bleed into there. Keep a small, dry brush on hand to suck it up if it does. The flow-aid will help the paint distribute evenly once it's on the model's surface. It will look kind of strange as you paint it but as the water dries it will contract, leaving you with a great looking even coat of white. This technique probably works better for larger models.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 9, 2010 18:10
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:white primer Neat, you seem fond of Skorne red. (looks great) Did you do anything special for the rust on the metal? It looks like it may be sponged on in places - or is that just from pooling?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 9, 2010 19:09
|
|
|
Le Saboteur posted:Yah, I don't have any droppers at the moment I just use a cup of clean water and have a brush soak up some water and mix it into the palette to get he right consistency. Dropper bottles make such a wonderful difference in painting and mixing, I don't know how I painted without them. I recommend them for anyone who doesn't have them. http://www.thewarstore.com/product43224.html
|
|
#
¿
Feb 9, 2010 21:59
|
|
|
Those guys are awesome. All of them. *fistpump on a banner*
|
|
#
¿
Feb 10, 2010 21:47
|
|
|
Perhaps something like this? It uses the standard colors associated with power weapons and the blue would create an interesting contrast with the earthy reds and browns. quick photoshop fu chop n slap work 
The Saddest Robot fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Feb 11, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Feb 11, 2010 00:22
|
|
|
ineptmule posted:Aargh gently caress. I'm trying to paint the skin on my Oathed Elves and on my Escher gangers and I'm experimenting with different degrees of thinning (I know, like milk... what the gently caress is the consistency of milk Yeah, I hear you. 'Consistency of milk' doesn't mean poo poo to me either. I wouldn't be able to thin my paints without my dropper bottles. I tried finding some other way to measure them with eye droppers and poo poo but didn't have any luck. Clumping out brush-fulls of paint onto my palette didn't lead to any predictable or repeatable experiences, it was just too hard to compare water to however much paint I had scooped out. Generally what I find works good for me is trying to get a 2:3 water to paint ratio and work from there depending on what color you are painting, what you are painting over and what kind of effect you are trying to achieve. How you get that ratio is the mystery.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 19, 2010 05:19
|
|
) and basically don't seem to be able to avoid either a really streaky finish or a really clumpy texture... What am I doing wrong?
|
The Good Professor posted:
Honestly painting anything pure black is probably a mistake. It doesn't leave you any colors to use for shadows. I think that's one of the few things I remember from art classes - oil painters almost never use pure white or black except to mix with other colors. I always recommend my friends use a very dark brown or blue if they are painting something 'black'. If he does want to go with black skin, look at some photos to get some guidelines on how to best pull it off (Salamanders with tribal style face paint/tattoos would be neat) http://www.loupiote.com/photos/2917217657.shtml
|
|
#
¿
Feb 22, 2010 18:48
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:Anyone thinking of switching away from GW paints should note that no-one on the planet makes a paintpot as loving poo poo as GW, also, P3 & Vajello both make pretty drat good paints, and if you can't find them cheaper than GW I'll be amazed. P3s also come with about twice as much paint as gw pots. It's really noticeable when I transfer them to dropper bottles. PaintVagrant posted:
I saw something similar to these made by Micro Art Studios and thought they were awesome as poo poo but they only came in rounded bases. They're still 40mm, but I'd want my smaller troop units to have the rounded edge bases too and as far as I can tell nobody makes 25mm rounded edge bases. Did you make those or are they someone else's?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 4, 2010 19:29
|
|
|
^^^ holy gently caress that is some stompa. Painted some stuff this weekend. Hive Guard for my Oath/nid army  Some Zombies I assembled a while ago but never painted. Decided to go for muted colors to give it an aged, decayed look. Used for D&D 4e tactical roleplaying. 5 down 15 to go.  A Dork Knight for one of the other players in D&D 4e. Used airbrush + Vallejo's black metallic air paint. The black looks great in person. The vallejo air metallics are awesome even for brushing on. 
|
|
#
¿
Mar 8, 2010 05:19
|
|
|
crime fighting hog posted:Just use outta the bottle, it doesn't hurt plastics and I've left marines in a tub of it for months just fine I've left plastic models in it for over a year
|
|
#
¿
Mar 8, 2010 07:15
|
|
|
Hell Diver posted:Cross Postin' from the Oath Thread. Agreeing with PV, love the glowing runes. Much nicer than the glowing blue you often see. The dread is looking great too.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 10, 2010 19:30
|
|
|
Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Well, I'm quite pissed off. I spray matte varnished my DP and tanks last night to protect the resin model, and flatten where I'd use pigment fixer on the vehicles. While the DP seems to be fine the tanks have dried with a slight frosty finish, and in one case, some spots of the pigment have turned white. I remember reading that when you get a frosty/white finish from a matte varnish spray usually a 2nd coat will clear it right up.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 12, 2010 18:52
|
|
|
enri posted:Cool thanks for sharing, my big gripe with white primer is that I normally paint bases and get them done before I even lay a single coat down on the model itself. Because I work off of a black undercoat 99.9% of the time this has never been a problem, with a white undercoat though... not so sure whether it's worth the extra hassle of painting the base extra carefully after painting the mini. Skorne Red Supremecy. Skorne Red is such an awesome color. Looks awesome with a Bhaal Red wash or Devlan Mud.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 16, 2010 18:00
|
|
|
Rikthor posted:Just curious if anyone knows a link to either a good tutorial or video tutorial of wet blending when it comes to miniatures? I understand the concept and all but doesn't the actual paint dry out too fast, or are there special additives to make it last longer? I like LBursley's tutorials, here's his on wet blending. He covers acrylics and water based oils. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__U0wNcEwHU
|
|
#
¿
Mar 17, 2010 17:52
|
|
|
I have a couple of modelling questions. What is a good way of cutting clean arcs/circles/ovals in plastic card? I want to make some gothic-like arches for a space marine hallway. Can anyone recommend something flexible to use for ribbed pipes that is thicker than a bass string? And finally I need skulls! What's a good source of bulk skulls to be used in grooves, as floor trim, for everything? Like these: 
|
|
#
¿
Mar 18, 2010 19:46
|
|
|
I R SMART LIKE ROCK posted:Real men use gesso through an air brush. That's how I did these, well this is after the base coat spray but you get the idea: Huh, I hadn't even considered that. I thought that gesso would be too thick for an airbrush. Do you thin it down? Water, airbrush cleaner, what? I've heard people not liking white gesso, I've used it for touch up when the spray primer has worn off and haven't had any problems with it. I haven't tried priming a whole model with it.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 25, 2010 19:13
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 07:32 |
|
|
Some day I will learn the secret of non-fuzzy priming. It seems like 1/4 of my models end up with a fuzzy primer coat -- usually with white primer. I don't know if I'm spraying too close, too far away, it's too wet or cold out, can isn't warm enough or what. I'd guess that if the coat is going on fuzzy it would be because the paint is picking up moisture or partially drying before it hits the surface? Some day. Some day.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 26, 2010 20:26
|
|