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dpack_1 posted:Tell that to GW Ah but that stays within the rim. In fact, I'd say that is perfect example of an extravagant base which doesn't look terrible in terms of dimensions. Any base that overlaps the rim all round is a bad base. Oh, and A Thousand Sons by McNeil is surpsisingly quite good.
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Feb 19, 2010 02:06
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Dropper bottles lose their charm once you get some that spit or ooze. Real men buy ridiculous numbers of pipettes off ebay for a pittance.
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Feb 21, 2010 07:57
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It's ages since I posted anything, so here's a bit of wip. I call him... Mr. Ploppy.
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Feb 23, 2010 22:25
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White glue can go yellow over time, put a bit of white paint into the mix.
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Feb 26, 2010 08:46
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Far as I know it's any white glue depending on its quality.
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Feb 26, 2010 08:55
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!amicable posted:For you dudes who use the FW artist's inks: Only used it a little so far so I've not learnt any particular quirks. It seems good at covering over lighter colours so I'm assuming it will work well to get white over black if you put down a transitional layer of astronomican grey. It's a lot like pre-thinned white paint really. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Feb 27, 2010 |
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Feb 27, 2010 01:47
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bhsman posted:Where can you guys order the white ink? I went with aartifolk.co.uk who charged a fortune for postage. 
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Feb 27, 2010 15:34
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Another oath crosspost. Putting pigments on is fun.
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Feb 28, 2010 20:51
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Thanks. First of all I mounted the model on an old pot so I never had to touch it directly, then just brushed the powders on where I wanted them and when I was happy I used a perfume bottle style atomiser to spray Mig pigment fixer on. Edit: Always, always, always shake the bottle before appying the fixer. Otherwise it will take days to dry.
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Feb 28, 2010 21:03
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I'm not familiar with artist chalk, but wouldn't have thought it would gently caress it up.Anphrax posted:Is this.... is.. is it floating in mid air? Yes, yes it is.
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Feb 28, 2010 21:27
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I dislike not being able to get a super cool miniature because it was only sold at event X or on day Y. Trying to create a market for tiny little men to forever be kept in their blisters is stupid. They're there to be painted, and with that in mind everyone should be able to paint one. At the least they should make them available after a year or two.
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Mar 4, 2010 10:36
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I need a little help from those of you who know your paints. I'm trying to get a skintone like the greenish one on this guy, but can't work out what colours to use.  Without assistance my GUO may end up like this, and that would make Papa Nurgle sad. 
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Mar 7, 2010 10:48
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enri posted:Thankfully no, the end result was me screaming like a loon and sticking my eye under a running tap until the offending chunk of plastic moved itself from under my eyelid He went to A&E for that ? Was he a girlyman ?
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Mar 8, 2010 13:41
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Painting big things is hard. Lungboy reckons I should redo the skin like this guy for army cohesion (everything's green), and while I originally wanted him to stand out from the rest I'm inclined to agree  What say you goons ?
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Mar 9, 2010 17:26
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crime fighting hog posted:See if this helps http://www.youtube.com/user/awesomepaintjob#p/u/33/8XBG0kQkYUM I think I'm going to try mixing my way of doing the DP with some of the elements from this. Cheers.
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Mar 9, 2010 18:06
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I've not tried making any ofthat wash yet, but when I do I'm going to use pipettes. Buy some off ebay, the going rate is ridiculous, a billion for tuppence.
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Mar 10, 2010 11:24
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Much happier with the skin now it has something to contrast with. Still a way to go though.
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Mar 10, 2010 19:09
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CyberLord XP posted:Looking for some advice on painting my March oath terminators. My made up chapter uses black armor with purple highlights. Should I leave the joints black? Or highlight them with grey? I can post some WIP tonight if that would help with suggestions. With black armour I'd do joints in boltgun and wash with badab.
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Mar 10, 2010 19:09
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Asciana posted:That is utterly revolting. I love it. The pinky red sores are awesomely done. Maybe a little purple in there too? I might do, although I'm planning to finish the model by putting some shiny, viscous dark blood in them which hopefully will darken them enough. Not really sure what to do with the currently dry lesions on his left forearm and right leg. Same wound effect as in the eaten away areas, leave them as is, or something else ? Sugestions ? Edit: VGC rose brown is a really versatile colour. I'm using it for the wounds and tongue (with some black and red gore) and it just seems right. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Mar 10, 2010 |
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Mar 10, 2010 20:09
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Fix posted:If I remember right, you're the one who got me going on the red thing to begin with. Or did you just suggest the horn? Gold !
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Mar 11, 2010 12:09
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Well, I'm quite pissed off. I spray matte varnished my DP and tanks last night to protect the resin model, and flatten where I'd use pigment fixer on the vehicles. While the DP seems to be fine the tanks have dried with a slight frosty finish, and in one case, some spots of the pigment have turned white. While I'm not ready to call them a write off, it does quite badly gently caress up the finish. From what I've just been reading it could be that the surface of the models wasn't 100% dry, which would make sense as they had the fixer on which takes ages to dry while the DP didn't. If that is the case then painting on some gloss might clear up the frosting. I hope.
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Mar 12, 2010 12:09
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By the by, I strongly recommend Imperial Armour - Model Masterclass Volume One. It's an absolute goldmine of tips for doing all kinds of cool stuff with GW paints, airbrushes, and various more esoteric ingredients.
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Mar 12, 2010 14:24
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Cheers, I'll give that a go.
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Mar 12, 2010 18:59
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PaintVagrant posted:SW biker wips: Looking good. Out of interest, how are you doing the grey ? It looks similar to what I'm doing on my march oath (1:1 wolf : shadow) but with a hint more grey and less blue.
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Mar 13, 2010 11:42
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alcyon posted:If you guys want some decent tips on esoteric painting and techniques, you should really avoid the dedicated warhammer forums (outside SA of course) and lurk around sites dedicated to armor and figure painting. Tons of tips and techniques for free. (the MIG forums for example) Makes sense I guess, but as an introduction to more advanced military modelling style techniques it's pretty good. Everything is written out with the knowledge that the reader is coming from the GW paint range which I'm finding particularly helpful. Plus it has lots of pictures of things painted by Phil Stutcinskas, which is always nice.
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Mar 13, 2010 15:44
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I'm a fan of the generic GW graveyard earth rim with light brown top.
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Mar 13, 2010 20:36
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Another good way of doing tarnished metal is to paint some rusty colours, then use your finger to rub some graphite onto the raised areas.
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Mar 14, 2010 18:27
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Those are nice, Fix. In Nurgle news, a brushed application of matte has fixed my tanks. \o/
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Mar 14, 2010 23:19
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That's a pretty lovely moulding defect.
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Mar 15, 2010 04:05
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I've always hated white primer because you can never get into the deep detail, ending up with white spots, and because it's fuzzed up for me a lot more than black. But it is a lot easier to work with if you give it a thin wash with a dark colour before you start painting proper, or so it seems from my recent faffing with my Lone Wolf.
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Mar 16, 2010 03:24
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Fyrbrand posted:fuzzy white primer flashback My Mentor Legion pretty much dead ended after I ended up with a bunch of fuzzy primered parts I couldn't strip and had to paint because I needed them for a tournament. I might get back to them one day, but it really killed my enthusiasm.
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Mar 16, 2010 03:40
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By far the best Alpha Legion models I've seen are those quite subtle Ultramarine infiltrators.
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Mar 16, 2010 21:50
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That matte varnish looks like the stuff they use in the model masterclass book, which is probably a pretty good reference.
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Mar 17, 2010 12:49
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The problem with the Detlof is that it has way too much wasted vertical space when used for 28mm miniatures. I'm still looking for a decent deisplay cabinet for my little men.
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Mar 24, 2010 00:19
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If you're doing a lot of spraying it might be worth your while getting a bowl of warm room temprature water to put the can in while you swap models etc. As you spray it gets cold and that can affect the paint.enri posted:I just use GW white and resign myself to semi-decent results. I know there's better primers out there but will be damned if I'm going to test them all out for the amount of white undercoating I do (clue: not a lot) Halford matt black is the primer of kings. Their white primer is actually pretty good as well, just so long as you shake it forever and the stars are in alignment.
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Mar 26, 2010 14:39
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The only real problem I've had with the black is that it sometimes dries blue-grey rather than black. Apparently this is because the drying conditions were off, bringing the models indoors to dry seems to prevent it.
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Mar 26, 2010 17:09
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My oath is nearly done, just some washing and the claws to do no pretty much. And the base... not sure where I'm going with that.  Claws... green, turquoise, or blue ?
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Mar 29, 2010 03:14
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Green lightning it is then. Which is nice as it echoes the power weapons on my old Wolves.
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Mar 29, 2010 05:26
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Always remember though, whatever order you do the steps in, always finish the model's base first. Number one super pro motivational tip.
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Mar 29, 2010 19:36
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 02:27 |
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I did a green lightning power effect on my Lone Wolf's claws but I think it has made it too cartoony. I think I might go back over it with plain old metal.
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Mar 30, 2010 15:21
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